Camping Equipment Maintenance

Just because your camping and/or recreational equipment doesn't have motors or gear boxes it doesn't mean you're off the hook for routine maintenance.  Mechanical equipment, like RVs, camping trailers, boats, and OHVs usually have rigorous maintenance schedules.  Tent camping avoids many of those time consuming and expensive processes, but there are still some routine maintenance tasks that should be performed fairly regularly on basic camping equipment to enure proper function and longevity.

Tent campers may not have to deal with the mechanical maintenance tasks that those who choose mechanized or motorized modes of travel and recreation do, but there are still some things we need to do routinely to keep our gear and equipment in top shape.  Failure to maintain gear and equipment is a sure recipe for premature failure.  A couple of good times to do routine maintenance are when you are preparing for an outing and when you return and put you stuff back in storage.  Major inspection and repairs are often done when you put your stuff into storage at the end of a season and when you get it out again for the next round of fun.

Tent maintenance.  Maintaining tents mostly consists of cleaning them and inspecting them for leaks or tears and making necessary repairs.  Keeping your tent clean is a simple but essential task.  Spilled foods, bird droppings, sap, and stains may attract insects or varmints that will damage the fabric.  Dirt left on the floor can grind away and weaken the fibers.  A tent that is rolled up and stored wet can mildew and rot.  That not only makes it unpleasant, but can destroy the fabric.  Always take time to sweep out your tent before rolling it up.  You may have to roll it up wet sometimes, but if you do, unroll it and let it dry out at home before you put it back into storage.  Small tears can  usually be sewed up by hand and sealed with seam sealer.  If caught in time making repairs will avoid catastrophic failure that would force you to send it out for repairs or buy a new tent.  Temporary repairs for small cuts and tears can be made in the field using duct tape or some kind of waterproof sealing tape.  These should be properly sewed and sealed when you get home and before your next outing.  Nylon repair tape is convenient way to make both temporary and permanent repairs.  It is often self-adhesive but stitching is always more secure.  Another important part of tent maintenance is cleaning.  You should always sweep out your tent before taking it down and brush away debris from the fabric as you roll or fold it up for transport and storage.  Clean the screens and windows and the zippers.   You can lubricate zippers with a number of ordinary household products but I like to use a commercial produce like Zip-Ease.  Household products you can try include a graphite pencil, crayons, candle wax, Chapstick, Vaseline, WD-40 and silicone lubricants.  Aways test any lubricant on a small, hidden place if possible to make sure it won't stain the tent fabric.  When using sprays, such as WD-40 or silicone, use the tube style nozzle and apply it sparingly.   When using a Crayon, match the color to the color of the zipper.  If your tent is wet or even damp from rain or dew, be sure to unpack it and let it dry out before you put it in storage.  When using liquid or spray lubricants, use dry lube instead of oily products if possible.  Inspect the roof and sides for soiling from birds or tree sap and remove such deposits as soon as practical.  Avoid putting your tent into storage with soiled spots.  Reactions between the contamination and the fabric may stain, rot, or weaken the fabric.  Bird crap can usually be removed satisfactorily with soap and water.  Sap may require a stronger solvent such as Goo Gone.  Some folks use turpentine to remove tree sap but it may damage tent fabrics so it would be wise to test it on something non-essential (like the tent peg bag) before using it on your tent.  I've even heard of using mayonnaise to remove sap, but then you have to remove the mayonnaise!

Sleeping bag maintenance.  Unless your sleeping bag is badly soiled or smells bad all you normally need to do is hang it out for a few hours to let it air out and dry before putting it away.  Mild odors might be controlled with a fabric freshener like Fabreze.  It would be a good thing if you have room to store your sleeping bags hanging.  It avoids compressing the fill.  Tightly rolling your sleeping bag may let you store it in a smaller space, but it will destroy the loft and it will no longer keep you warm.  If you can't or don't want to hang your sleeping bag, fold it carefully and store it in a tub or box that lets it remain loose.  If you detect a light odor you might try spraying the bag lightly with a fabric freshener such as Fabreze.  Be sure to let it dry before rolling or folding it for storage.  Badly stained or awful smelling sleeping bags should be taken to your local dry cleaners for cleaning.  It isn't cheap, but its way less than a new sleeping bag!  Some sleeping bags may indicate they can be machine washed, but I am somewhat skeptical.  I had a cold weather parka, with construction similar to a sleeping bag and with a label claiming it could be machine washed.  Just one washing virtually ruined the jacket.  The fill was so badly bunched up there were many places where there was no fill at all, just the inner and outer layers of nylon.

Gas stove maintenance.  Gas stoves, whether white gas or propane, are usually quite reliable, even without a lot of preventive maintenance.  But that doesn't mean you can or should ignore them.  Be sure to clean up any cooking spills after each use.  Clean the burners and the bottom of the stove.  Be sure to clean the openings in the burners.  If there are places where a spill has clogged some of the openings, there won't be any flame there, creating a cold spot in your cooking surface.  Gas stoves that use liquid fuel have a pump built into the fuel tank to create the pressure needed to feed gas to the burners.  These pumps usually use a leather washer which can dry out and become ineffective.  A drop or two of oil (just about any oil, even motor oil will do) will usually restore flexibility.  If that doesn't work you may have to rebuild the pump.   Rebuild kits are available at most sporting goods stores where the stoves are sold and cost from about $3.00 to $20.00.  The cheaper kits usually just replace the washer; more expensive versions often replace the many of the hard parts as well.  You might need the higher priced kit if you have lost the knob on the pump.  If the pump is working fine and there is fuel in the tank but the stove still doesn't work, it probably has a bad generator.  This is a little brass tube through which the liquid gasoline travels and is converted to a gas before entering the burners.  Generators are fairly easy to replace and only cost around $10.

Gas lanterns.  Gas lanterns may use gasoline or propane.  Propane cylinders are pressurized.  You have to pressurize the fuel tank on gasoline lanterns using the pump built into the tank.  If the pump stops working, a drop or two of oil may soften the leather gasket and restore enough flexibility to get it working again.  If it is too badly worn it may have to be replaced.  Liquid fuel lanterns also have generators that an sometime go bad.  Just as with gas stoves, there are rebuild kits.  The kits for any given brand can usually be used on both stoves and lanterns so you shouldn't have to carry multiple rebuild kits.  The most frequent maintenance chore for gas lanterns is replacing the mantles.  The mantles are little sock-like mesh bags.  You have to remove or lift the globe of the lantern to replace the mantles.  There may be one or more mantles in each lantern depending on its size.  The mantles have a string threaded through the open end.  Slip the open end over the end of the flared tube inside the globe and tie it tightly in place with the string.  Then take a match or lighter and burn the silk mesh sock.  The ash that remains is heated white-hot when the lantern is lit.  Because the mantles are made of ash, they are quite fragile.  Bumping the lantern may cause them to crack or break and then they will no longer confine the gas and burn properly.  Always carry several replacement mantles with you when you're using a gas lantern.  Another routine task is cleaning the globe.  Always do this when the globe is cool.  Cleaning a hot globe may result in  burning your fingers or breaking the globe.  If the hot globe comes in contact with cold water or a cold cloth, it may crack or even shatter.  Carefully clean both the inside and outside of the glass globe before each trip and as often as needed when using the lantern -- when the globe is cool.  Cracked or broken globes should be replaced.  Most gas lanterns are  held together by a knurled nut at the top.  Make sure this nut is always snug but don't over tighten it.  Regularly check to see if the bail or handle is properly attached.  If it is loose and you try to pick it up, the lantern my slip off and fall.

Battery lanterns.  Battery lanterns are far easier to care and less fragile than gas lanterns.  They usually have plastic rather than glass globes.  But that doesn't mean they don't need some attention.   The same thing applies to flashlights.  You will want to check the condition of the batteries before each trip and either recharge the lantern or replace the batteries if the voltage is low.  You might want to put one of the batteries in backwards when you will be putting the lights into storage for a while to prevent battery drain.  Low batteries are likely to fail during extended storage, often leaking and damaging the light, so check the batteries before storing your lanterns or flashlights too.   Check the battery compartment for signs of leakages or contamination.  Carefully clean any yucky stuff out of the battery compartment paying special attention to the contacts the battery connects to.  They should always be clean and shiny.  You may need to clean the globe periodically too.  Since there is no soot or smoke inside, normally all you have to do is clean the outside.  Window cleaner, like Windex, usually works well but just to safe, check your owners' manual.  Some plastics may have special cleaning instructions.  Ordinary soap and water is usually safe for all surfaces.   Be sure not to rub too hard or too long in one place as it may scratch or burnish the surface and never rub them without some kind of liquid cleaner or the dust will scratch and dull the surface.  Badly scratched or cloudy globes might benefit from a multi-step plastic cleaner like those used for motorcycle windshields.  If that doesn't work you may have to replace the globe if you can find one or the entire lantern if you can't. You might check garage sales for options for replacement parts.

Camp chairs.  Camp chairs mostly just need to be cleaned once in awhile.  Some of the old style aluminum folding chairs used screws to hold the mesh to the frame.  If you have one of these you'll want to make sure all the screws are tight before each trip.  Cloth chairs like the popular "quad" chairs can be cleaned with soap and water, rinsed with water, and let dry.  Don't fold them up until they are dry. The mesh on folding aluminum chairs can also be cleaned with soap and water if badly soiled but if they're only dusty you might just blow them off with compressed air.   If the webbing is badly worn you can buy replacement kits to re-web aluminum chairs.  If you find your folding chairs are getting hard to open and close or they make squeaking sounds when you open and close them, you might want to put a little bit of lubricant on the pivot points.  Don't use a lot of oil because it will just collect dust and get on the fabric when the chair is closed up for storage.  A dry Teflon lubricant would be a good choice.  If you use a wet lubricant like WD-40, be sure to avoid spraying on too much.  You might even want to spray some in the cap and apply it with a little water color brush or Q-tip so you don't get too much in one place.  The legs on some chairs have caps or feet on the end.  These often get lost or damaged.  You may be able to purchase rubber cane tips to replace missing feet on round legs.  Missing caps may allow the legs to dig into the ground, letting the chair tip while you are sitting in it and damp soil trapped inside the feet may accelerate corrosion.

Knives and axes.  Inspect  your knives and axes.  Test the blades and makes sure they are clean and sharp.  Gently sand away any rust.  Coat the metal surfaces with a light oil.  Make sure handles are secure in axe heads and that the handles are smooth and in good condition.  You may sand rough wooden handles.  Rub wooden handles with linseed oil to protect them against moisture, make the comfortable to handled, and give the handle a nice "glow".  Dull tools are more dangerous and more difficult to use than sharp ones.  Sharpen blades as needed and use some kind of blade protector while the tools are in storage.  Shovels aren't as sensitive to needing sharp blades, but keeping them clean and appropriately sharp is a good idea.   A bit of WD-40 on the steel to prevent rust and some linseed oil on wooden handles will help keep them in top shape for the next outing.

Hiking sticks usually just need to be cleaned regularly,  but collapsible models might need a bit of lubrication.  Inspect the grips and repair or replace any that are loose or damaged.  Metal models should be checked to see if they have gotten bent and, if so, try to gently straighten them.  Wooden walking sticks might benefit from a light rubbing with linseed oil or a good furniture oil.

Other equipment.  Depending on what kind of recreational activities you normally participate in you may have other pieces of equipment that need your attention.  If you have an owners manual or instruction sheet, be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.  Lacking specific guidelines, be sure to regularly clean and inspect each item and make repairs as needed.  Check the functionality of each item to make sure it is working right.  If it doesn't work right, examine it for damage.  A frequent cause of problems in anything with moving parts is contamination or lack of lubrication.  A little dry Teflon or even a modest application of WD-40 may work wonders.  Metal components of equipment may have gotten bent and you might be able to restore proper movement by straightening the bent part.  Slight bends can usually be successfully straightened but anything that has been kinked or cracked will probably have to be replaced before it fails catastrophically.  Anything that gets bent more than once will be weakened and should be replaced.  Check for and tighten any loose fasteners but take care not to over tighten them.  Over tightening can damage parts and interfere with proper movement.

Camp clothing should be washed and carefully stored until the next season.  You should also inspect your camp clothing and replace any missing buttons, repair loose seams or tears, or, if it is too badly damage to be salvage, discard and replace it.  Often fixing some loose buttons or stiching up a small tear will keep things in working condition for another season or two.

Keep it working!

Camping Stores

In a previous post we addressed "Camp Stores".  They are the little stores in a campground that usually offer some staples and camping supplies as opposed to larger camping stores, that focus on selling camping supplies and equipment.  In this article we will focus on "camping stores":  stores or stores with departments that primarily sell camping equipment and supplies.

Camping stores might be appropriately applied to any store that regularly sells camping supplies and equipment.  We usually think of places like Camping World, L.L. Bean, and REI primarily as camping stores.  Department stores such as Walmart, Kmart, Target, and Sears usually have large camping sections which qualifies them as camping stores. Sporting goods stores like Big 5, Dicks, Cabela's, and Sportsmans Warehouse are, of course, also good place to find camping supplies and equipment.  Many RV retailers have in house stores that sell mostly RV oriented supplies and accessories, but because camping and RVing are so closely aligned, you often find a wide variety of general camping supplies there too.  You may also find camping supplies at your local grocery store and large pharmacy chains like Rite Aid and Walgreens.  Some auto parts stores stock a limited amount of RV supplies too and sometimes that includes camping items.  You might even find camping supplies in truck stops and travel centers along major highways.  You can even get a lot of basic supplies at dollar stores!

When I'm in the market for camping supplies and equipment, whether for tent camping or RVing, the first place I usually look is ebay.com.  That is, if I can afford to wait a few days for the items to be delivered.  For more immediate needs, I'll head to a local store like Big 5 or Walmart.  I've kept track of my ebay purchases over several years and have found that by judicious choice of purchases I've saved an average of over 50% over retail, even when I include shipping.  But whenever you use an Internet auction site, be sure you know what things will cost through regular local or online retail outlets so you don't over bid.  Remember, to some extent, to win an auction on ebay you must be willing to pay more than anyone else in the world!  Don't let yourself get drawn into a bidding war over something you can get elsewhere.  I've seen bids for items on ebay climb way above the regular retail price at the local Walmart.  For example, I saw someone pay over $17 plus shipping for an outdoor 12-volt RV receptacle that sells every day at Walmart for under $10!  You also need to be aware of shipping and handling costs, which sometime exceed the value of the product.  I guess it might be worth it if you don't have a Walmart near you, but you should be able to order it online at a reasonable price and have it delivered anyway without overpaying for it in an auction.

Thrift stores are not normally thought of as camping stores, but they can often be an excellent source of inexpensive equipment for camping.  People often donate camping equipment they no longer use to the charitable organizations that run thrift stores.  Often the equipment has only been slightly used because it seems we never get to go camping enough.  Sometimes it is even brand new! People tend to accumulate duplicate items over time or receive them as gifts.  You won't always find equipment like tents, lanterns, stoves, or sleeping bags, but they are pretty common and when you do you find them you will probably be able to get them for a fraction of their original retail cost and very often they will be gently used and still in good condition.  Some thrift stores even recondition items for sale.  You can almost always count on finding plenty of kitchen items -- pots, pans, utensils, dinnerware etc.  You can stock your galley or chuck box without breaking your budget.  They usually have a large selection of clothing from which you can build up your camp wardrobe.  Good winter jackets, like ski parkas, can be VERY expensive when new but you can often find excellent used ones at thrift stores that are more than suitable for camping at a tiny fraction of their original cost.  Thrift stores are also a good place to find good used jeans and other comfortable pants for camping.  You may even find some good hiking or snow boots!  (I like to keep a pair of snow boots in my RV.  I call them my "desert bedroom slippers".  They are really comfortable and keep my feet warm and comfortable around the campfire after a day of having my feet confined in stiff motorcycle riding boots. Thrift stores are also a good place to pick up extra linens for camping.  Bedding and towels can take a beating in camp so having inexpensive and expendable ones is always a good idea.  Other good sources for used items include garage sales and local classified ads.  Also be sure to check your your local version of craigslist.

My advice to you is to look for camping and RV supplies and accessories where ever  you go.  Even hardware stores and home centers sometimes have items you may find useful, even if they aren't specifically designed for camping.  I once picked up a 7' umbrella tent for $10 at a side walk sale at a home improvement store!   Our local home center recently had a special price promotion on telescoping walking sticks.  I would have never thought to look for them there.  I've even found unique camping related items at truck stops and travel centers during road trips.  While you might need to be careful about making unplanned expenditures while traveling, you will often discover that you will never have another opportunity to purchase certain unique items.  In general my suggestion is when in doubt, buy it!  I can't think of a single time I've regretted making such a purchase but there have been many times I've lost out by not buying something when I could and definitely regretted it!

A couple of tips for keeping cost down:  1) check to see if you already have some excess or duplicate items you can re-purpose for camping before you spend good money on new ones and 2) keep your eyes open for sales -- watch for clearance and manger special signs whenever you go shopping.  Look over the stuff in your kitchen, attic, basement, and garage to see what you might have stored that you can now use.  One other thought:  stock up on bargains when  you have a chance.  That applies mostly to durable goods and supplies.  Buying large quantities of perishable items only makes sense when you have an immediate need and will use them up before they go bad, such as for a large family or group outing -- or if you have a way to preserve them for future use, such as freezing them.  I had to pay $1.50 for two of the little spring type sleeping bag cord locks when I needed them NOW for a trip.  A few days later I bought about 50 of them in one bag on ebay for about what I spent at my local sporting goods store for two!  It took a couple of weeks for them to arrive but next time I need them I'll be all set.

Dollar Tree isn't really a camping store or even have a camping department per se, but you can often purchase many items you might need for camping there.  Check out my post on Camping Supplies from Dollar Tree.  You won't find tents or sleeping bags but you will find lots of cleaning and medical supplies, kitchen items, flashlights, batteries, tools, and I've even found small solar camping lanterns there!

Some items you might find it useful to watch for and stock up on might include spare parts for stoves and lanterns (generators, mantles, pump repair kits etc), tent pegs, personal grooming items (such a camping mirrors, biodegradable soap, pocket first aid kits, etc), LED flashlights and batteries, fire starters, parts for back packs (those darned little clevis pins have a habit of getting lost on the trail!), sunglasses, and bandages and other durable medical supplies.  RVers or tent campers with a porta-potty will want to stock up on toilet/holding tank chemicals.  If you use a gasoline camp stove or lantern, a couple extra cans of camping fuel would be handy.  Fortunately, the white gasoline used for camping fuel lasts a lot longer than modern ethanol modified motor fuel.  If your have propane stove or lantern, you can save money by buying multi-packs of propane canisters when they're on sale.

Camping stores are an excellent source of new gear.  However, you can often find gently used or even unused camping equipment at garage sales and via classified ads like ebay and cragislist.  Some of my favorite pieces of equipment have come from these places.  Sometimes used items might need a good cleaning but often you'll find things in ready to go condition.  People sometimes end up with duplicates or they upgrade their gear and the excess ends up in garage sales and thrift stores.   It has always surprised and pleased me to find out how frequently I see brand new items at bargain prices.  If you have a strong preference for buying new products, keep an eye out for coupons, clearances, manager's specials, and end of season sales.  To keep your cost down look for year end sales and manager specials to get bargain prices.

Sometimes you might be searching for a vintage item that is not longer available through normal retail channels.  You may still be able to find what you want on ebay or craigslist.  I did that to get an "accessory safe" for my vintage Coleman lantern.  Why some fairly popular items like that disappear from the market is a mystery to me.  I can only assume they didn't live up to the manufacturer's or retailer's profit expectations or the cost of manufacturing them got too high.  Often, the difficulty in finding them may drive up the price, so do shop around a bit before jumping on a "find" but don't wait too long or the price may go up even more or the item you want may be sold!

Shop 'til you drop!

Getting the Most Out of Your RV

RVs often represent a significant investment.  Even a small tent trailer can run you around $5000 or so new.   Unfortunately, many people only use them for occasional camping trips (average about 12 trips a year according to some reports) so they spend a lot of time sitting unused.  That makes pre-owned (used) RVs especially good values for subsequent purchasers, but wouldn't it make sense to get as much  use out of your investment as possible?  With a little creativity you may find many ways to use your RV.

Our primary use for our motorhomes has been to support our dirt bike outings.  With a family of 6 kids (4 boys and 2 girls with a 14 year difference in age between the oldest and youngest) it served as our base camp for our OHV rides.  We spent just about every 3-day holiday weekend on one of these trips when the kids were growing up.  These days I'm afraid our motorhome doesn't get nearly the use we would like to it.  At one time making a living got in the way of living.  Now that we are retired and on a fixed income, NOT making a living gets in the way of living.  Can't seem to win either way!

A second major use was summer vacations to visit the kids' grandparents in another state.  Even though motorhomes don't get great mileage, the savings in motel and restaurant costs plus the added convenience during travel and at our destination, more than offsets the fuel costs.  When you measure the fuel in "passenger miles per gallon" like is often used for mass transit, transporting a family of 8 in a motorhome delivers a respectable 56 passenger miles per gallon!  That sounds a whole lot better than the raw fuel economy of 7 miles per gallon.  Even with just two people, that's 14 passenger miles per gallon.  When you factor in the savings for meals and motels, motorhome travel really comes out ahead!

With six active children, we often had several soccer games to attend each weekend.  We soon discovered our motorhome was perfect for transporting our small army and all their gear and provided us with a  shelter and other useful facilities for resting, eating, and cleaning up between games or escaping unpleasant weather.  Our on board first aid kit let us lend help dealing with many small injuries among their teammates as well as our own kids.  Some of the soccer fields were located at schools that were locked on weekends so having our own sanitary facilities was also a boon.

On one occasion the limousine our kids ordered for a school dance failed to show up and we transported about half dozen kids to the dance in our motorhome.  It was definitely an unusual mode of transportation for such an event, but it provided at least as much room for the kids as the limo would have and even better facilities for the more than 1 hour drive downtown to the venue for their dance.  It also created some one-of-a-kind memories for everyone involved and we still get comments from our kids friends decades later.

Disaster Recovery Vehicle (DRV).  I have touted the value in using your RV as a DRV in several places in this blog.   We have used our DRV on more than one occasion.  Having a well-stocked RV available during any kind of interruption of normal household services makes dealing with them a lot more convenient and can even literally be life-saving.  Your RV can give a you a safe and comfortable place to stay should your home be damaged or if you should experience an extended power outage.  If properly setup you are prepared to weather just about anything.  That means having sufficient fuel in the tanks, proper clothing, food, and medical supplies.  Your RV will provide shelter plus cooking and sanitation facilities and can serve as a temporary ER for you and your family and friends when access to normal medical services are restricted or non-existent.

A motorhome or other RV makes an excellent guest house for visitors.  You can keep your visiting relatives close by but still give them (and you) a lot of privacy by setting them up in your RV.  You may have to make special arrangements during winter months when you RV is winterized.

Another popular use for motorhomes is tailgate parties at sporting events.  Be sure to check with the venue to make sure they will admit rigs the size of your and will allow tailgate parties before you show up and get turned away.  RVs provide perfect facilities for your pre-game and post-game festivities.

Shopping trips?  You probably wouldn't think of taking your motorhome on a shopping trip.  Too many issues with traffic snarls and limited parking.  But sometimes it might be just right.  Not only does it have lots of space to put your purchases, it can provide you a comfortable place to recuperate between stores -- get a snack, catch a few Z's, freshen up.  It may be especially well-suited for trip so remote factory outlet centers.  Sometimes they cater to RVers, setting aside special parking for large rigs.  It is always a good idea to scout out the destinations beforehand to make sure there will be appropriate space for  your rig.

New Years Eve celebrations.   I read of an enterprising owner who used  his motorhome to transport his wife and some friends to New Years Eve outing at a nightclub about 90 minutes from their home.  Knowing it would be a late night and drinking would be involved, he obtained permission to park on a vacant lot near the club so they had a safe and comfortable place within walking distance when the night's festivities ended and they were sometimes in no condition to drive home.

Taking a group out.  Whenever you have more people than will fit in your family car or minivan, you might consider using your RV.  However, not all the seating in an RV is rated for occupancy on the highway.  Any approved seating should be equipped with seat belts.   Passengers in other locations might present a safety hazard and, in case of an accident, you may face liability issues.  You may also be subject to getting a citation and paying a fine if a law enforcement officer happens to notice your excess passengers for any reason.

A night out at home?   Why not?  You can eat dinner and spend the night in your RV right in your own driveway or backyard.  Makes a kind of unique date night and if you still have kids at home may provide you more privacy than you usually get in the house.  We once celebrated our wedding anniversary in our cab-over camper -- picked up a wonderful steak dinner at our favorite restaurant and enjoyed a delightfully intimate candle light  dinner and pleasant evening in the camper.

Another option is to rent out your RV.   You might be able to do it yourself but many people use professional rental agencies to handle renting their RVs.  That is one way to help offset the cost of ownership.  One such operation is outdoorsy.com.  You can usually still reserve it for your own use whenever you want, but might actually turn it into a positive revenue stream when you are not using it.  Sure beats just having it sit there and depreciate!  There are, of course, some risks associated with renting it out and some inconveniences.  You won't want to keep your personal belongings in it when renting it out and renters might do some unexpected damage and you should count on additional wear and tear.  You will have to keep up with all scheduled maintenance and be prepared to make repairs as necessary to keep your RV in rentable and presentable condition.  Popular, late model RVs are the best candidates for rentals but you might find a market for reasonably priced vintage units too especially if they are unique or particularly appealing.

Think outside the box.   You'll probably come up with even more fun, interesting, and innovative ways to use your RV.

Be creative!
 

Camping Supplies from Dollar Tree

Dollar Tree  (and other dollar stores) probably doesn't pop right up when you think of camping stores.   True, you won't find tents or sleeping bags or stoves or lanterns at Dollar Tree, but you will find lots of supplies that can support your camping activities.  I take that back.  I did find some little solar powered lanterns at Dollar Tree one time but they aren't always available.  They often have solar pathway lights that can be easily adapted for many camping uses.

I am a strong proponent of looking for camping and RV/OHV supplies everywhere I go.  I have found bargains at drug stores, farm and ranch stores, travel centers, and grocery stores as well as at RV, OHV, camping, and outdoor outlets.  You can often find things you can use for camping in your own basement, attic, or garage.  One kind of surprising place I've found is my local dollar store.  The solvent resistance foam tiles on the work bench in my enclosed motorcycle trailer are kids animal puzzle tiles from the 99 Cents Store in California.  I was teased a lot when my riding buddies first saw them (pastel colors with cute animal cutouts), but they sure changed their tune when they saw how well they worked!  Not only do they provide a cushioned, non-slip working surface, they are surprisingly easy to clean.  I was delighted to discover that brake cleaner would remove oil and grease stains easily and completely without harming the tiles.  The first time I tried it I fully expected it to melt the tiles and I would have to replace them but they cleaned up like new, with no degradation at all!  So far they have served me well for decades!

Some people are skeptical about the quality of products at dollar stores.   But many times they sell name brand products.  Sometimes they may purchase overstock or discontinued items but sometimes they simply have enough buying power to offer brand names at significantly reduced prices.   Sometimes they might be reduced sizes.   If  you have any concerns about quality, you can always give it a try and make up your own mind without investing a lot of your hard  earned cash!  Even smaller sizes might give you a good chance to try out some products without breaking the budget.  Cleaning supplies, sundries, and even OTC medicines are usually a good value and acceptable quality.  Some folks are a little skeptical of cheap tools, but I have found them adequate and quite useful for light duty use around camp, and not too costly to replace if they are lost, stolen, or damaged.  At only a dollar each, they pay for themselves with just a single use!

We get most of our cleaning supplies, toiletries, sundries and OTC medications from Dollar Tree along with flashlights, batteries, and many kitchen utensils.  Paper goods, plastic utensils, etc are also readily available.  The cheap single ply toilet paper is a pretty good substitute for the more expensive RV tissue and a lot more compatible with holding tanks than the fancy quilted brands favored for residential use.  To be sure it will break down satisfactorily in holding tanks drop a few sheets in a jar of water for a while and shake it.  See how it is done on this RV toilet paper test.   It should quickly dissolve.  If it doesn't, don't use it in your RV toilet or porta-potty.

I've mentioned Dollar Tree and other dollar stores in several places in this blog.  Not long ago I found a camping article on Pinterest that also entreated readers to shop Dollar Tree for camping supplies and things to keep kids occupied in camp and on the road.  There were a few negative comments in response to her presentation that I thought were unwarranted or at least unjustified or uninformed.  As with anything you buy, you should make your own decisions and buy what works for you.  Like me, the original writer touted the advantages of dollar store flashlights and batteries.  At least one reader flat out rejected her advice.  He argued that sturdier flashlights lasted longer.  I stand by my original recommendation of using dollar store flashlights and batteries, especially for kids and loaners.  Like the critical reader, I like to have a couple of high quality Maglites for my own use.  They are indeed sturdy and will last  long time but I have found it particularly advantageous to use inexpensive and easily replaceable flashlights for kids and as loaners.   Those light weight plastic flashlights may not be as durable as nicer ones but, hey, I'm not out serious $$ if they are damaged or don't come back.  I was really ticked when one of my kids "borrowed" my brand new blue anodized Maglite for cave exploring and brought it back looking like it had been through a rock avalanche.  The good news?  It still worked just fine.  It just wasn't very pretty any more.  No doubt a cheap plastic flashlight would have been left in pieces in the cave. But at least I wouldn't have been out much!  Ever loan out a tool or piece of gear and have the borrower forget to return it?  If  you're like me it has happened more times than you would like, but I still like to be a good neighbor and help out my fellow campers when I can.  Having a few inexpensive flashlights and tools to loan out or for kids and grand kids allows me to do that without concerns or regrets.

Many of the cleaning products at dollar stores are brand names so often there is no question about quality.  However, don't reject their own house brands or off brands.  My wife and I have found than many of the "Awesome" branded products at Dollar Tree are excellent quality and match or even sometimes exceed the performance of similar brand names.  In addition to liquid and aerosol cleaners you can often find a variety of wet wipes.  I've found leather wipes, tire wipes, stainless steel wipes, furniture wipes, glass wipes, and mechanic's degreaser wipes in addition to traditional baby wipes and general purpose wipes.  They seem to come and go so I advise stocking up on what you want/need when you see them. They will last a fairly long time as long as the original package isn't opened.  Once the  package has been opened, always store it with opening down and put it in a Zip-loc bag between trips so it doesn't try out.  Standard detergents and cleaning products are usually kept well stocked so you can usually get those just about anytime.  By the way, aerosols are less likely to spill than liquid cleaners but if you're deeply concerned about their affect on the atmosphere, use manual spray products, or where feasible, wet wipes.  When I think about the overall effect of spills, I tend to favor aerosols rather than have to deal with the damage and potential air pollution from spilled liquids. 

OTC medications are another category I find Dollar Tree to be a good source for.  It enables me to easily and inexpensively stock my medicine cabinet with a variety of choices so all member of my family or group can chose their favorite pain relievers, etc.  Aspirin doesn't work for every one so I carry acetaminophen and Ibuprofen too. Nice not to have to shell out big bucks for each bottle.  Another good thing to have when camping is a supply of allergy medicine as we often encounter pollen and other substances that we normally aren't exposed to and which can cause unexpected allergic reactions.  Cough drops are useful if anyone gets a cold during an outing.  I like to stock up on multiple flavors to appeal to differing preferences in my family.  Antacids, like Tums, are good for the upset stomachs that often accompany too much picnicing.   Diet and meal patterns are often different than at home, so an anti-diarrheal medicine is a good thing to have around.  Since stuff in our RVs and camp kits often sit around a long time before being used it is also nice not have a large investment in disposable items that may have to be thrown away before you use them up.  Because RVs don't always get used regularly medicines often have to be replaced periodically without being used up.  Fortunately, most medicines are good long after their official expiration dates, but if you have any concerns, it is inexpensive to replace them at Dollar Tree and maintain peace of mind.  I have found surprising number of different types and sizes of bandages and medical tape.  And I keep a tube or two of Superglue in every one of my first aid kits.  Superglue is almost the same thing as pharmaceutical grade "Dermabond", but a lot cheaper, especially when you get it at Dollar Tree.  In use it may sting a bit more than real Dermabond, but it will essentially work just as well at holding small wounds together.  And it bonds instantly to skin.  I've heard it will sting a bit more than Dermabond, but since I've never used Dermabond I can only attest to the very satisfactory performance of Superglue.  I find the little "single use" tubes particularly good for first aid.  I once got a bone-deep cut on one of m little fingers when it got caught between a trailer hitch and a bumper.  We washed it out with alcohol and stuck it together with Superglue.  In a few days it had healed and barely left any scar.   That was several years ago and today there is no trace of the injury left at all.  You will often find pocket sized first aid kits at your dollar store.  I like to stock up on these so that everyone in my family always has a basic first aid kit in their pack or pocket and I can share them with guests.  You aren't going to handle major injuries with a little pocket first aid kit but they are perfect for the many smaller tasks that often pop up during outdoor activities.  Things like slivers, little cuts, blisters, insect bites and small burns are all too common when camping.  Since we seldom get to do as much camping as we would like to do, it is nice to have an inexpensive source for restocking expired provisions.

You can  usually find an assortment of bandaids and other bandages at Dollar Tree.   This is a very inexpensive way to restock or supplement your first aid kit.   They often  have individual pocket-sized first aid kits that are really handy for outdoor activities.  If you have small children or grandchildren some of the cutesy cartoon characters, camofluage,  or Star Wars bandaids are always a hit.  I once even found some antibacterical bandaids which were treated with silver nitrate at Dollar Tree.  I stock up on individual first aid kits quite regularly and make sure everyone in my family has an up-to-date one in their fanny pack tool kit on their dirt bikes.

I often find bandanas at Dollar Tree.  There are easily dozens of uses for a bandana when camping, ranging from fashion to first aid.  You can review some of them on my bandana post.

Kitchen utensils are another group of things that I have found frequently suffer from abuse or loss during camping trips.  Items from a dollar store may not be restaurant quality but I find they usually at least match things I buy at grocery and department stores and, once again, the low cost makes them cheap and easy to replace when they get ruined or go missing while camping.  The low cost also means it is economical to bring along duplicates if you have room.  We've found it is often very nice to have extra spatula or serving spoon.   The plastic or wooden handles on cheap utensils are easily damaged in a campfire but  I've even found sturdy all stainless steel items that are perfect for camping.  My wife liked my camping ladle so well she commandeered it for the kitchen at home and I had to look for another one.  Light weight pots and pans sometimes show up at Dollar Tree and they would be OK for your RV or camp stove but I wouldn't want to use them on a campfire.  The kitchen section is also a good source for dish towels and hot pads.  BTW, I've found the concentrated version of dish soap to be perfect for camping.  The smaller size takes up less room in camping tubs or RV cabinets and the concentrated form seems to work better.

There are usually a good selection of toiletries and sundries, which allows me to stock up for camping and have enough for my whole group and to share with fellow campers should the opportunity arise.  The only downside is that with the cost so low it is easy to OVER buy for my family, but at least everyone has the products they like to use.  I encourage using things like combination shampoo/conditioner to minimize RV bathroom clutter.  Or go even one better, and get the 3-in-1 shampoo/conditioner/body wash.  Not only do these combo products save space in your RV or camp kit, they help you conserve water since you don't have to separately rinse out shampoo and conditioner.

Dollar stores usually have a fairly large selection of beauty products -- combs, brushes, nail clippers, nail files, chapstick, etc. making it very inexpensive to stock up on what you and your family might need in your RV or camp kit.  Sure, you can just bring your shaving kit or toiletries bag from  home, but having everything stocked for your outings make it more convenient and you are less likely to forget something you need before the outing is over.  Sometimes these items might not be quite the quality of department store or brand name items, but they usually more than adequate for camping outings, giving you many options without risking the more expensive ones you use at home.

The "Soft Lines" section often includes socks, knit gloves, knit caps, t-shirts, and other expendable items you might use on camping trips.   Once again, these are especially handy to have for kids and as loaners.  I  found the little, stretchy knit gloves worked well for glove liners for my dirt bike gloves on cold days, and they are a whole lot cheaper than commercial glove liners.  Who cares if they're Playboy pink or baby blue!  Cheap T-shirts are always handy for work shirts.  I even found some with pockets which makes them especially useful!  Ball caps are handy to keep the sun out of your eyes on outings and for just a buck each you aren't out much if you lose one.

The hardware selection usually includes a few small hand tools and car care products.  The tools may not be professional quality, but are often quite adequate for the light use they will get when camping and the low price makes them very affordable.  And, should they break or get lost, you're not out a lot of money.  Low price also lets you get as may as you need to have them at all the places you will need them.  Convenience is valuable when camping.  And, when I lend out tools from Dollar Tree I don't have to worry if they don't come back.

Inexpensive toys for camping can be a real boon to young families.  It is also gives grandparents a way to stock up on things to entertain their grand kids during an outing or a visit.  Things like sidewalk chalk and squirt guns appeal to kids of all ages.  Same with glow sticks, necklaces, and bracelets, which are fun for after dark activities.  Even adults enjoy cooling down on a summer afternoon with a "Supersoaker" squirt gun fight.  And the dollar store lets you arm your whole army without a big price tag and the low cost pretty much eliminates worry over them getting lost or damaged, which are both frequent occurrences with any group of active youngsters.  The variety of crayons, colored pencils, and colored markers along with coloring books and pads of various sizes can provide hours of entertainment for the budding artists in your group.  You can usually find a variety of simple games as well as other basic toys to keep the little ones busy.   A bunch of  art supplies and indoor games are especially nice to have  for kids of all ages on rainy days in camp.

Flashlights and batteries are always good to have in camp.  While I do enjoy using my sturdy aircraft aluminum Maglite, inexpensive plastic flashlights and LED lights from the Dollar Tree are really nice to have on hand for children and as loaners.  The low cost batteries may not last as long as higher priced brand names but since they spend so much time in storage in RVs and camping kits it is good not to tie up a lot of money and have them go bad and the low price lets me have an adequate supply of replacements for every application for each and every trip.  I've used small Dollar Tree LED flashlights in my tool kit on my dirt bike we great success.  They are sturdy aluminum construction, are light weight, and have endured 100s of miles of bumpy trails in my dirt bike tool kit.  The low cost allows me to stash little flashlights wherever they might be needed for added convenience in my RV, camper, tool box, motorcycle trailer, back pack, and fanny pack.  The batteries from dollar stores might not be the highest quality or longest lasting, but I've found the low price makes it possible to maintain a good back stock of batteries in my RV, boat, and camping kits without investing a lot of money.  I was really happy when I discovered some small solar lanterns at Dollar Tree.  Just wish they had them all the time.  Next time I find them I will definitely stock up!

Some people (including you and me) might be kind of choosy about tools and hardware, but low cost might allow you to supplement your tool box and spare parts with little investment and you don't have to worry about losing your good stuff.  I frequently find little items, like razor knives (3 for $1.00), that are handy to have in my camp kit and my tool box at home.  I would not be likely to pay normal retail for them for such occasional use, but being able to have them at a reasonable price often makes many tasks around camp easier and more fun.  It also allows me to duplicate some hand tools so I can them where I frequently use them instead of having to always go back to my tool box when I need something.    An extra screwdriver and/or pair of pliers tucked into a pocket or pack can be very handy.  And they don't have to be heavy duty, professional quality, precision items for occasional light use around camp or on the trail.  I've even picked up rolls of wire that is perfect for wiring hand grips on OHVs, sometimes getting 3 rolls of different colored wire for $1.00!   Nice to have options if you're sensitive to color coordinating things on your ride.   BTW, you'll find that a pair of specialized wire-tie or "safety wire" pliers will make that task pretty easy and kind of fun, but you probably won't find them at your dollar store.  Try your favorite OHV or auto supply store.  They can be a bit pricey.  I've seen them from $30 to $385!  One of the best deals I found was two pair (6" and 9") plus some wire on ebay for $31.99.  Wire tie pliers have a locking mechanism to hold the wire secure while twisting it with a special built in spinner as you pull on the pliers.   It will pull the wires nice and tight and lock them securely in place with a very tight, neat twist.  But go easy.  It is way to easy too twist the wires off and then you have to start over.  You might want to practice a few times before relying on the technique to secure the new handgrips on your OHV.

Solar walkway lights from Dollar Tree can often be adapted for use as tent and campground lights.  Remove the ground stake and add a hanger to use it as a tent light or stick the ground stake into a can or jar partially filled with rice, beans, or pebbles or into an inverted flower pot to use it on your picnic table. Solar lights are also useful for illuminating tent pegs and poles so you can avoid tripping over them at night.  A solar walkway light on either side of your RV step makes it easy to find in the dark.  LED "tap" lights are an easy way to add lights to cabinets and closets or under the hood for checking your oil.  I've also seen them installed inside the lids of mason jars to turn them into little table-top lanterns.  Sometimes you can get some that were designed for kids that are very colorful and shaped like various animals.  They make good individual tent lights or bunk lights in an RV.  They provide sufficient illumination for individual needs without impinging too much on fellow campers and being battery powered they won't run down your RV or vehicle batteries,  especially useful around kids who often "forget" to turn off lights.  I have even found small LED tent lanterns at Dollar Tree a few times.

Having access to inexpensive products provides an opportunity to experiment with different things to find out what works best for you and what you like best.  Sometimes you will even find things in the toy aisle, like the foam tiles I used on my motorcycle trailer workbench.   If you get something you don't like, you've only wasted a dollar, which you might get back at your next garage sale!  I've found that particularly useful for kitchen utensils.  You can try out a variety of sizes and shapes.  Keep what you like working with and put the others in your next garage sale or donate them to your favorite charity.  If all else fails, you can throw them away without feeling guilty about having wasted a lot money on them.

There are a few things that might be kind of deceiving at dollar stores.  It is often tempting to buy plates and other tableware or glassware at only $1.00 each.   But doing that you could spend $32 for complete place settings for 8 when you may be able to buy a complete set at a department store for around $24.  Same with silverware.  $1.00 each is a good price to replace a couple of lost or damaged pieces, but if you need a full set you will probably get a better deal somewhere else.  A full service or 8 would run at least $24-32 and you can usually get a full set at a department store around $20 or so.  Being able to buy replacements for $1.00 when you need them can still be helpful.  I read somewhere that plastic bags, like sandwich bags and freezer bags at dollar stores come in such small quantities that the per item price is higher than it would be at your local grocery store.  However, sometimes being able to purchase the smaller quantities as needed helps the cash flow and might be just what you need for camping and the smaller sizes might actually fit better in RVs and camp kits.

The only warning I feel I must share is to avoid over spending!   It is really easy to justify just about any individual item since it is "only a dollar".  I find that even when I drop in to pick up just a couple of very specific items, I typically end up with about $27 worth of stuff in my basket or cart by the time I get to the register.  With that in mind I figure I'm being frugal any time my total is less than $27 at checkout.  As long as you really want or will actually use your purchases, what you spend shouldn't be a problem.  But do be aware that you might rationalize rather emotional, spontaneous purchases of items you might be more reluctant to purchase at higher prices.  After all "its only a dollar!".  It is really easy to accumulate a whole lot of those $1.00 items!  That being said, I very seldom if ever regret having spent "only a dollar"

My local Dollar Tree recently changed most of their prices to $1.25!  A sudden increase of 25% on everything seems a bit much to me, although I understand that their costs have been going up and they have held their $1.00 price for nearly 3 decades!  However, even at $1.25, most Dollar Tree items are still a pretty goo bargain.  I haven't stopped shopping at Dollar Tree, but I am a little more conservative in my purchases these days.

Happy Shopping!

Dump Valve Maintenance and Repair

Dump valves are pretty reliable unless they freeze or get damaged by mishandling or impact with something.   However, they will sometimes need repair or replacement in normal use due to ordinary wear and tear on the seals or getting debris trapped as they are closed.  You can also break the internal slide or bend the shaft if you don't pull and push the valve straight in and out.  If you discover sewage accumulated inside the dump cap between dumps, you probably have one or more leaking valves, assuming you closed them correctly and completely the last time you used them.  The color and smell of the accumulated fluid will tell you which valve is leaking.  Foul smelling stuff that is blue, green, or brown is coming from the black water tank.  Some holding tank chemicals might even turn it orange!  Grayish, soapy water that is nearly odorless is from the gray water tank. The black water valve will  be large, 3" valve.  The gray water valve may also be a 3" valve but on some rigs it is a smaller, 1 1/2" valve.  Having a clear plastic dump cap instead of a black one will let you see if there is anything behind the cap before you open it allowing you to avoid a nasty surprise.  Always make sure both valves are fully pushed in before deciding you have a problem with the seals.  Sometimes a bit of debris may get caught in the valve when it closes causes it to leak until it is opened and flushed again.  You may be able to clear debris from seals using a brush or carefully cleaning the groove with a bent wire.  A persistent leak is a strong indicator that the seals need to be replaced  Having a clear plastic dump cap will let you see if there is leakage before you open the camp and get doused with nasty stuff.  Having a dump cap with a hose fitting allows you to slowly and easily drain the accumulated sewage safely into the dump hose or a container before you open the cap and get a big uncontrolled "whoosh" of nasty stuff all over you and the ground.  The space between the valves and the cap can usually hold a quart or two of nasty leakage.  Dump your tanks before attempting to work on the valves.  After you get home from dumping and parked where you're going to be working on them, put a container under the valves and remove the outer cap and open the valves and leave them open for a while to let everything drain out and stop dripping.  This will help avoid getting sewage up your sleeve or dripping in your face while working on the valves.

Sometimes you can clean debris from the seals by carefully scraping the groove with a bent piece of wire.  Be gentle and careful if you try this.  You only want to remove the debris and must avoid damaging the soft rubber seal.  Often even soft debris that has been stuck for some time may have already damaged the seals, forcing you to replace them to correct the problem.

To avoid problems with your dump valves, always pull and push the handles straight.   Any angle on the handle could bend the shaft, damage the seals, or crack the slide.  Once any of these things has happened you will have to replace the valve.  Fortunately they aren't very expensive (around $20 each at even higher priced RV parts stores and even less at discount outlets) and they are usually pretty easy to change.

Always wear protective rubber, nitrile, or vinyl gloves when working with sewer hoses and dump valves  to avoid exposure to chemicals and nasty waste products.  Then thoroughly wash your hands after you have removed and discarded the gloves.  Coveralls are a good idea too, and be sure to wash and disinfect your work clothing when you're done, especially if there was any spillage.

Sometimes the problem is due to worn seals, which can be replaced without replacing the entire valve.  However the effort is pretty much the same whether you're replacing just the seals or the entire valve.   Seal kits will be a little less expensive than complete valves but since the valves are fairly inexpensive, I prefer to replace them rather than just change the seals to avoid any extra labor if just changing the seals doesn't solve the problem.  Some valves can only use their own branded seals and if you get the wrong ones, they will leak.  That is one reason I prefer to replace the whole valve so I don't have to worry about matching old seals.  You'll need to dump and flush the holding tanks before beginning any repair.  The valves are blade valves that are fastened between flanges on either side -- one on the outlet from the tank and one on the pipe that leads to where you attach the dump hose.  They are secured by 4 bolts -- one in each corner of the square part of the flange on the valve.  Remove the 4 bolts, then carefully pull out the valve.  Remove the old seals and clean the flanges.  Install the new seals on the flanges.  Make sure to put the large end of the seal over the lip on the flange.  Then very carefully slip the valve (new or old) into place, taking care not to dislodge or distort the seals.  This can be tricky.  Replace and tighten all 4 bolts and you should be good to go.  New valves should come with new bolts, another benefit of replacing the valve and not just the seals.  Always hold the nut and tighten or loosen the bolt head because the nut is knurled to prevent it from slipping.  Turning the nut will grind the surface of the valve.  Tighten the bolts until the heads begin to bite into the plastic flange.  Once the bolts are tightened, close the valve to make sure it operates smoothly.  If there is any resistance or it won't close completely the seals have probably slipped and you'll need to take it out and reinstall them properly.   At least partially fill the tank with clean water to test the installation.  Sometimes (often) the old bolts will be so badly rusted you can't unscrew them to disassemble the valve.  If there is room you may be able to cut the bolts using a hacksaw or a die grinder with a metal cutoff blade.  Since you will be replacing the old valve you can cut right through the valve itself.  Cut the the center of the bolt through the middle of the flange of the valve itself and be careful not to damage the flanges on either side of the old valve.  The flange on the valve itself should provide enough buffer to prevent you from damaging the flanges on the tank and pipe.  If you damage those other flanges you'll have a lot more to repair!

Some small leaks might be temporarily repaired using a wet patch roofing tar.  This is not a suitable permanent repair.  The underlying cause must be diagnosed and repaired, but if there is a small drip around the junction of the valve body and the flanges it mounts to, sealing it with tar might let you finish a trip and then make appropriate permanent repairs when you get home.  Using wet patch sealant avoids having to wait until the tanks are drained and dried.  Wet patch roofing tar is intended to be used in rainy conditions and may not be resistant to the chemicals and other contaminants in sewage.  While it may stick to wet surfaces, it may not stick to greasy, soapy surfaces or those contaminated with human waste and holding tank chemicals.  Clean the surface as well as you can before attempting to apply wet patch.  I  like Henry's wet patch cement, available in 10 oz tubes to fit a caulking gun at most home centers.

Maintaining dump valves mostly consists of keeping them lubricated so they operate smoothly without any tearing or excessive wear.  Lubricate the shaft of the valve with a silicone spray.  DO NOT use WD40 as it will dissolve the grease that helps seal around the shaft and will make the valve harder to open and close.  The plastic "paddle" that actually opens and closes usually doesn't require any direct lubrication but some holding tank treatments contain valve lubricants or you can buy special valve lubricant to put into your holding tanks.  Valve lubricant is usually dumped down the toilet when the tank is empty so it goes directly to the valve.  You will have to put lubricant down a sink or shower drain to lubricate gray water valves.  Choose the drain closest to the gray water tank and put it in when the tank is empty.  You may want to open and close the valves a time or two to get the lubricant into the seals before adding waste to the tanks.

Dump valves may have metal or plastic handles.  These handles sometimes get bent or broken, especially the plastic ones.  If the valve is otherwise in good shape, the handles are easily replaceable.  Open the valve, then grip the shaft with cloth protected pliers to avoid damaging the shaft, while twisting the handle to remove it.  Then screw on the new handle and tighten it and close the valve.

Some dump valves are located away from the outside edge of the RV and are operated via extension cables.  If you have valves that are difficult to reach you may be able to replace them with cable operated valves for added convenience.  When replacing existing valves with cable operated valves, use new Bladex/Valterra valves.  They are specially designed to operate easily with cables.  Follow the installation instructions carefully to ensure proper operation. Some ultra-luxury units even have electrically operated dump valves.  To me that is overkill and unless you have physical problems that prevent you bending over to reach the dump valves or to pull the handles, I don't think it is worth the expense and it introduces extra electro-mechanical parts that can be additional points of failure. If you have cable or electrically operated valves, make sure to push the handles all the way in when you are done flushing your tanks.   For some reason it seems easier to forget to close them than it is to close the directly operated valves and the results can be very nasty the next time you take the cap off the dump port to connect your sewer hose!  It may be harder to tell if cable operated valves are fully closed because there is some flexibility in the cable, altering the "feel" you get when closing valves with direct handles.  Always close all valves with a firm, smooth, quick motion to ensure the valve is fully closed.  If you encounter resistance there may be debris interfering with the operation.  Open the valve and inspect the seals and remove any debris before trying again.

Dump it!

Camp Chairs For Campers, RVers, and Boaters

There was a time when about the only option for a comfortable portable seat in camp was a folding camp stool.   They were made of wood and canvas.  Viewed from each end they looked like an "X" when open, with canvas stretched between the bars at the top of the "X" to sit on.  They're still around too.  See Folding Camp Stool  and below for a modern example.
                                                                                                                                                                                       

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Camp chairs have come a long way since then.  Aluminum camp chairs with fiberglass webbing were among the first improvements:  light weight and fold flat for easy transport and a back rest and arm rests so you could really relax.  In addition to the flat, narrow arms shown on the example they often had wider plastic arms that included a convenient cup holder to keep your favorite beverage out of your lap yet close at hand.                    
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They were quite comfortable and easy to use.  You may still be able to find some around if you like this style.  Try ebay.  I hung on to a couple of these because they fit nicely in the "rafters" of my motorcycle trailer for transport.  They are light weight and make a great place to sit while putting on my riding gear.  You can even still get re-webbing kits for them (see re-web kits on amazon.com).

Quad chairs or bag chairs have pretty much taken over the camping scene in recent years.  They can be purchased at many stores that carry camping equipment, such as Walmart, often at very reasonable prices.  The seats, backs, and armrests are made of cloth.
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They typically fold up into about a 4" square form that fits in a bag.  The bags usually have a shoulder strap and/or handle that makes them easy to carry.  These chairs may come with and without arms and can include built in snack tables.  Many of those with arms, like the one in the picture, have a cup holder built into the arm rest.  You can even get recliners,  rocking chairs,and cots of similar fold up construction.  The canvas material is form-fitting, breathable, and very comfortable.

Both the aluminum folding chairs and "quad" style bag chairs are available in children's sizes too, providing portable, affordable, comfortable seating for the whole family.  Some even have built in foldable tables for added convenience.

Camp chairs usually fit easily in the "basement" compartments on motorhomes and travel trailers.  You can also get racks that attach to RV ladders that will carry the folding aluminum style chairs.  Quad or bag chairs can usually be tucked under a bed, sofa, or dinette or carried in a roof pod or the trunk of a car.  For tent campers, quad chairs will usually fit right alongside tents and sleeping bags in your car, truck, or SUV.  I have a couple of the vintage folding aluminum camp chairs that fold flat enough to fit into the shallow (1") rafters of my enclosed motorcycle trailer.

Camp chairs are a very good way to enjoy a campfire.  They make a good platform to sit on for roasting hotdogs and marshmallows or just relaxing and enjoying the fire.  Just make sure you put them away or at least fold them down and lay them flat when you leave the campfire for the night.  I've seen several chairs reduced to twisted and melted frames after getting blown into the fire pit after everyone went to bed.  Sometimes there's enough heat left in the ground even after the fire is out to damage errant chairs and it only takes a light breeze to blow empty chairs into the fire pit.  When they are collapsed and lying on the ground they're a lot less likely to get blown around and into the fire.

Maintenance and repairs.  Routine maintenance mostly means keeping them clean and making sure they are properly stored when not in use.  The hinge points of folding aluminum chairs might benefit from a bit of lubrication now and then.  I would use a Teflon or another dry lube rather than an oily spray that would attract dirt and dust and may soil your clothes.  The webbing on some aluminum chairs is attached with screws that might need to be tightened from time to time.  Folding aluminum web chairs can be fairly easily re-webbed, if you can still find the webbing kits.  That is a good way to repair or refresh vintage chairs, or even change the color to match a "new" RV or tent.   Tears in quad chairs can be patched as you would just about any fabric, but they are not really designed to be rebuildable; however anyone who can operate a sewing machine could patch or sew new fabric for these chairs pretty easily.  You can probably use the old fabric for a pattern if it isn't too badly worn out.  They generally come in a variety of basic colors (red, blue, green, orange, yellow, and black) and sometimes camouflage.  If you choose to sew your own, you could make them any color or pattern you like as long as you use an appropriately strong fabric. The factory chairs are usually made of a light weight canvas material.  A good quality nylon or polyester might be more stain resistant.  Speaking of stains, you might want to consider spraying quad chairs with Scotchguard stain repellant when they're new to help keep them looking good.

If you have room to transport them you might use plastic patio chairs in camp.   Probably not very feasible unless you have a very large SUV or a pickup truck or utility trailer to haul them around in!  Folding chairs are far more convenient and will usually provide at least the same level of comfort.

Survival camp chairs.  You aren't likely to have any camp chairs if you find yourself in wilderness survival mode, but that doesn't mean you have to sit on the ground.  You can sometimes find a rock or a stump to sit on or make yourself a rustic stool from just two pieces of wood.  It is easiest to make using flat lumber, but that too will probably not be an option in survival mode.  The basic design is a "T".  You sit on the cross bar of the "T" and the leg supports your weight.  If you have to make a stool from limbs you'll probably want to notch the cross bar so it doesn't roll off.  Since you have to balance this one-legged stool it may take a little practice, but it sure beats sitting on cold, wet, muddy, or snowy ground.  Of course, if you're handy with lashing, you can make a 3-legged camp stool or even a real camp chair from small branches and cordage.

Camp chair accessories.   One of the most popular accessories are umbrellas that clamp to the chair frame to provide shade and protection from light rain.  Another rather esoteric option is called "Backglo".  It is a reflective shield that attaches to the back of the chair and extends all the way to the ground below to reflect heat from the campfire onto your back while blocking any breeze back there.  Lap trays or snack tables can be used with many camp chairs.  There are also little folding tables available in the quad chair style that can be used as tables or as foot stools.  They look like a quad chair without a back.

Camp chairs are not usually used on boats, but they could be if the need came up.  Deck space on most boats is limited and there is usually sufficient and appropriate seating seating built in.  The almost constant movement of a boat makes loose chairs impractical.  If you need to use camp chairs on a boat make sure the feet aren't going to damage the deck.  Missing plastic caps or sharp edges could cause significant damage to deck surfaces.  Aluminum chairs with U-shaped legs distribute the weight and avoid that problem.  You might want to carry camp chairs on your boat if you stop on shore overnight or just for meals and other activities -- if you have room for them on board.

Sittin' pretty!