Where to Get Camping Equipment

The simple answer is: wherever you can find it!  But you have to look.   Don't wait until you need something specific for an upcoming outing.  If you feel pressured to get something right away you're likely to settle for something less than you want or pay too much for it.   Always be on the lookout for good deals on equipment and supplies.  There are many places in addition to camping, outdoor, and sporting goods stores, some you might not ordinarily think of:  department stores, thrift stores, home centers, garage sales, flea markets, ebay, craigslist, local classified ads, and magazines. TV, radio, and email may bring you ads for sales.  You may find things you need or want at camp stores or may be able to purchase them from fellow campers who have duplicates or no longer need them. You may also find things you need in your own kitchen, garage, or attic!  I recently found a lot of brand new camping equipment on a year-end sale at 50% off at my local farm and ranch store.  Such closeouts are fairly common as retailers clear out seasonal merchandise to make way for a different season.

New or used is a question you want to answer before you go very far in your search for camping equipment.  If you have an unlimited budget, you can fill your shopping cart at L.L. Bean, REI, or Cabella's with wonderful new equipment and you're set to go.  However, most of us don't have that luxury and have to seek more cost-effective alternatives and almost everyone likes to get a bargain. Some highly desirable and venerable items are no longer available in stores so you may have to search the used market to find them.  Funny how once popular staples of camping can be discontinued, but I've see it happen more than once.  And just about everyone enjoys getting a good bargain.  Watching for and taking advantage of seasonal sporting goods sales can net good savings on new equipment, but used equipment at good prices is more readily available year round.  Keep in mind that new equipment is only new once -- before you use it the first time.  After that it is used anyway.   Some people have reservations about using personal items that others have used.   Sleeping bags are at the top of this list, with tents and kitchen items following close behind.  If you have any concerns about the cleanliness of any item, it can be taken care of.  Sleeping bags can be dry cleaned. Tents can be washed and sanitized.  Kitchen items can be cleaned and sterilized in your dishwasher.  Even Port-a-Pottys can usually be easily cleaned and sanitized.   The question of "new or used" will most likely be answered by how much you are able to spend and whether the item is still in production.  Very often the "used" camping items you will find in garage sales or classified ads will have been gently used if at all.   Perhaps the used car dealer euphemistic designation of "pre-owned" might be a better way of thinking of it.   Many of these pieces of equipment find their way into garage sales because of dis-use or even non-use.  People sometimes accumulate duplicates over time or receive them as gifts and never get around to using them.  Used camping gear can be an excellent investment.  It is not unusual to find brand new camping equipment for sale by private parties.  People sometimes buy stuff thinking they will use it or receive items as gifts and just leave them on the shelf.   Over time, many of us accumulate duplicates as we find good deals on things we like, creating additional candidates for garage sales.  Unless there is a significant factor of durability, wear, damage, or warranties, new usually has little real advantage over used.  After all, as I said before, something in only really new once -- the first time you use it.   Some vintage items aren't even still available in stores so the only way to get them is to buy used.  Sometimes stuff finds its way into garage sales, thrift stores, and classified ads because it is worn out, but most often things fall into dis-use long before their useful life is over.  Even so, you want to carefully inspect each purchase to be sure you know what you are getting.  Sometimes you can find used items that are no longer available new in retail stores.   I much prefer the old style metal containers for Coleman lanterns over their modern plastic "clamshell" counterparts and the only way to get them these days is to buy them used.  The metal containers are more square and fit better in cabinets and trunks.

Many department stores offer camping supplies.  Places like Walmart, K-Mart, Target, and Sears have large, well-stocked camping departments and are good choices.  Camping specialty stores and sporting goods stores like REI, Cabellas, and Big 5 of course have super selections.   However, you may find some camping supplies in your local grocery store and places like Rite Aid or even at truck stops.   I have had very good luck at farm and ranch stores.  I like to browse through the camping displays at any store whenever I have a chance.   You never know when you'll come across a new gadget or a "Manager's Special".   I once picked up a $125 Camp Chef stove for $25 on a year end close out by checking out the Clearance Table at Big 5.  I found a rather unique T-handle socket set at a truck stop when we stopped for gas on a routine family car trip.  Granted, a socket set is not directly a camping tool, but with several RVs and OHVs to maintain, it is closely related.   It has been very useful and I've never found one like it anyplace else.   A good rule to follow is, if you find something you like, get it while you can.   On a few occasions I have found items later at a better price, but not nearly as many times as I've passed up an item, then wished I had gotten it, usually because I can't find it anyplace else.

Ebay and craigslist are also good places to look for camping stuff.   Be sure to do your homework on checking prices before you bid on ebay or run out to buy that "bargain" tent on craigslist.  I've seen people over-bid for common items on ebay, things they could have purchased at their local Walmart for 2/3 their bid or less.  You may run across unique items for which you can't get any price comparisons.  In that case, set your maximum price based on your budget and how much the item is worth to you.  I got into bidding war over an Autolite 12-volt air compressor I wanted for my motorcycle trailer.  It was a very unique item, not one of the flimsy little toys that plug into a cigarette lighter, but one with a motor the size of an automobile starter.   I suspect the other bidders also recognized the uniqueness of the item and together we probably pushed the price higher than it should have gone, but I have never regretted having purchased it.  It serves the function for which I bought it and there is no doubt I would have kicked myself if I had let it get away since I've never seen another one.  On the other hand, I saw bidding for a Marine grade (water resistant) 12-volt socket soar past $17 when the very same item could be purchased at the local Walmart for under $8. Of course, if you don't have a local Walmart, snagging something on ebay may be your best course of action and it may be worth paying a little extra for the convenience of having it delivered to your door.  But it could have been purchased on line for less from walmart.com.  While you can get true bargains on ebay, keep in mind that in order to win an auction, you have to be willing to pay more for the item than anyone else in the world!  Getting a good price is often a matter of timing.  Bidding early or waiting until near the end of the auction are both strategies that have merit.  Bidding early makes you the first winner and if the minimum bid is near the actual or perceived value or you don't have a lot of competition, you might not get outbid.  Bidding at the end of an auction limits the possibility of being outbid.  There are even computer programs that can monitor your bids and bid for you just seconds before the auction ends so no one has time to outbid you.  I like the "Buy It Now" option that completely eliminates the possibility of being out bid.  Always check the shipping and handling.  A few unscrupulous sellers offer unbelievable (and unrealistic) low prices on items only to hit you hard on "shipping and handling" charges.

Local classified ads and garage sales can often be the source of excellent bargains.   Here again, perform due diligence to know the quality and price of the products you are interested in buying.  You will often find gently used or even brand new products at a fraction of their original prices.  People sometimes buy or receive as gifts items they seldom if ever use.  Unfortunate as the circumstances may be for the seller, estate, moving, and divorce sales can produce good opportunities for the savvy shopper.  Loss of employment in today's lousy economy has forced a lot of people to liquidate recreational items.  Don't be afraid to negotiate for a lower price or seek a discount for purchasing multiple items.   Getting to a garage sale early in the day ensures the best selection, but shopping late in the afternoon can get you the best price on anything that is left.   Since garage sales are random events and the availability of any particular item even more random, your best bet is just to browse every garage sale you see.   You may find that tent or camp stove you're looking for stuck under one of the tables or behind boxes or furniture.  Or you may come across interesting and helpful items you hadn't even considered.  I lucked out one day when I stumbled on a set of 4 manual RV leveling jacks for a fraction of their retail price. They were mechanical jacks designed to work on a travel trailer but with a little creative engineering I was able to make them work on my 28' Class A Motorhome.  They were not nearly as convenient as automatic levelers, but a lot easier to use and more stable than leveling blocks.

You cannot predict what you will find at garage sales but you can often find great bargains on camping equipment there.  I've found good deals on both tent camping items and RV accessories at garage sales.  Be sure to check out the condition and functionality.   Even items that need repairs can be a great find, as long as you know what it will take to restore them -- and have the ability or funds to do so.  Gas stoves and lanterns often need the pumps rebuilt or the generators replaced and both are easy and inexpensive tasks.  Leaking fuel tanks, on the other hand, tell me to keep looking.  Sometimes you might pick up an item you can use for parts but make sure it is compatible with what you are fixing.

Thrift stores can be an excellent source of bargain camping equipment, especially kitchen items. Tents, sleeping gas, camp stoves, lanterns, and ice chests may be harder to find but when you find them you will likely save a lot of money over new prices.   Thrift stores usually have a large supply of kitchen items at all times so you can fill out your cooking and serving needs or replace lost or damaged items very quickly and economically.  You may have to keep checking back for other camping equipment.   I suggest getting cast iron cookware unless you need it for hiking or back packing.  Cast iron is durable and can be used directly in your campfire.  If you plan to cook on a campfire, avoid light weight aluminum cookware.  I've seen aluminum pans melted into shimmering puddles in a campfire.  A little breeze acts like a blacksmith's bellows and can create pretty high temperatures, high enough to melt pans and completely consume aluminum cans.   An advantage of building your camp kitchen using thrift store items is you won't be out a lot of money if something does happen and they get damaged or lost and you can easily and cheaply replace them as needed.

"Dollar" stores are an inexpensive way to augment your galley and other provisions.  Pots, pans, glasses, cups, plates, dishes, kitchen utensils, spices, and cleaning and hygiene supplies can be found at most dollar stores.  I've found a lot of good first aid supplies and OTC medication there too.  I like to check out their hardware section and have found some useful hand tools from time to time. I can usually count on finding bungee cords, a package of 2 each of 3 different handy sizes.   They aren't big enough for securing loads in my pickup truck but they are perfect for packs, keeping lids on camping totes, controlling sleeping pads and sleeping bags, etc.   I stocked my camp kitchen with large, sturdy, stainless steel spoons, forks, spatulas, and ladles from Dollar Tree.  You can often find inexpensive flashlights and batteries at dollar stores.  Flashlights may not be as convenient as Coleman lanterns for general campsite lighting, but getting them at the dollar store will be a lot cheaper.   Even efficient LED lights are starting to show up there now.   LED lights last hundreds of thousands of hours and batteries last a LOT longer (about 10-12 times longer) than when using ordinary flashlight bulbs.  Dollar store flashlights are perfect for kids, who have a tendency to break or misplace them fairly regularly. I tried to avoid letting my kids use my $30 Maglites and when they did get their hands on them the results were disappointing and expensive. My son once "borrowed" my brand new, blue anodized Maglite to explore a local cave. It came back in one piece but it looked like it had been through a war!  Dollar stores have "D" and "C" cell plastic flashlights and "AAA" powered aluminum LED models that are perfect for pocket, purse, fanny pack, or little hands.  Cheap flashlights make good loaners too, since you don't have to worry too much about getting them back.  Recently they've had solar walkway lights,that are good for marking your tent pegs so you don't trip over them in the dark or to mark your RV steps and sometimes you can remove the stakes and add some kind of hanger or stick the stake into a can filled with sand, beans, glass beads, or rice to use them as small, general purpose hanging or table lights.

Military surplus stores can be an excellent source of camping gear.   Tents, sleeping bags, tarps, first aid kits, mess kits, canteens, and troop cook kits are just the start of what you may find there. You can always find creative ways to use surplus parachutes and paracord.  Boots, coats, and other combat uniform items make great hiking and camping wear.  One word of caution: the popularity of surplus military items has created a market that invites imitations.  Be skeptical if the Army coat or skillet has a label that says "Made in China" -- unless it is a Chinese army coat.  Hand tools designed for military use can be handy for camping.   Folding shovels and axes are among the favorites. Bayonets are popular as hunting or survival knives, but most survival experts recommend a smaller fixed blade knife, with a 3-5" blade.  It is more convenient to carry and works better for more survival tasks, which tend to be more carving than hacking.  Unfortunately, the popularity of military surplus items for camping has inflated the price over what it once was when I was younger and there was a lot of "war surplus" items to be had, but you will still often find sturdy merchandise that is well suited to camping at reasonable prices.  Military first aid kits are compact and usually pretty complete.  Sometimes you find things there you won't find anyplace else.  You probably won't have much use for troop sized cooking and first aid kits unless you have an  unusually large family or intend to regularly support some other large group.  Some of the military field medical kits contain far more supplies than most people would know how or be qualified to use, so make sure you buy what is appropriate for your needs and your skills and training. Most of us would have little use for a field surgical kit but it might make a good addition to your emergency supplies if you have, know someone who has, or are able to get some appropriate training. 

Home centers and hardware stores can also be a source of camping supplies.  Tools are among the more obvious options at these locations.  I like to carry a "roofers hammer", which is a combination hatchet and hammer.  Some home centers and hardware stores have extensive camping sections.  I even got a great close-out price on a tent at a home center.  I've also found it more economical and more convenient to purchase my awning mats from home centers.  They sell indoor-outdoor carpet in bulk in a variety of colors, including an artificial grass style, that works well for awning mats.  You can buy just the length you need to correspond to the length of your awning and I've usually found it to be less expensive than pre-made awning mats from RV supply stores.  However, some of the awning mats are made of materials that lend themselves better to their intended use.   For example, some will let rain pass through whereas indoor-outdoor carpet might retain water and other spills.   By buying just the length you need to match your awning you avoid paying extra for two mats when one isn't long enough for your awning.  I add grommets to each corner and about every 3' along the long sides, plus one on each side of where the RV step will be.  I use 12" nails with flat fender washers on them to secure the mat to the ground.   If you have a welder, tack-weld the washers to the nails so they don't get lost.  If you don't have a welder cut some discs from heavy plastic like motor oil bottles and push the nails through them so they retain the washers against the heads of the nails so they don't get lost in storage between uses.  When parking on asphalt, I use a 22 caliber nail gun to literally shoot my mat to the pavement where tent stakes won't work.  One of our favorite camp sites was on a once paved cul de sac in an abandoned housing development in the Mojave Desert near California City.  There was enough pavement remaining beneath the sand that had blown in to completely cover the old roads that it was impossible to drive ordinary tent pegs.

Most department stores have camping sections and often the prices are lower than you'd pay at specialty camping, sporting goods, or RV stores. Walmart, K-mart, Sears, and Target always seem to have pretty complete camping selections during camping season.  Pre- and post- season sales can deliver excellent bargains, but selection may be limited.  If a Coleman lantern isn't in your current budget, kerosene lanterns are a lot less costly.   The light isn't as white and bright as a gas lantern and it gives off a distinctive kerosene odor similar to a jet engine, but they were the staple of lighting not only in camping but in homes and businesses for many, many years before electric lighting came along.  If you find the kerosene odor objectionable you can burn scented lamp oil or unscented liquid paraffin.  Using citronella oil will also help repel insects.

Camp stores.  Whenever you stay at a commercial campground, check out the camp store.  They often stock unique camper related items you won't find anywhere else.  Prices may be higher for regular RV and camping supplies, but it is usually worth the convenience if you happen to need something right now.  If nothing else, you might get some ideas of things you'd like to add to your gear and can shop around for better prices when you get home.  Be sure to hang on to a business card or receipt from the camp store so you can contact them if you can't find an alternate source.  They might be willing to ship it to you.   Just to be sure, grab anything that is manufactured or produced locally when you see it.  You probably won't find it anywhere else.  It just might be worth paying more for something when you see it rather than miss out on it entirely.  I have NEVER bought something on the spur of the moment and then regretted buying it but many times I've regretted NOT buying something when I had the chance.

Gas stations and travel centers often stock a few camping and RV supplies especially in areas where camping is prevalent.  This can be convenient if you need something while on the road.  You probably won't find the lowest prices here but you sometimes find unique items you won't find any place else or be able to pick up a necessary item without having to make special trip to town for it.

Garage sales, thrift stores, and flea markets can be an excellent way to get real bargains on pre-owned camping equipment.  Sometimes you may even find brand new items.  Flea market vendors often purchase liquidated merchandise and offer it at a fraction of its original suggested retail price.  Individual owners may have brand new equipment they received as gifts or simply never got around to using. Even used items will often be in excellent condition.   Often the reason they are being sold is they have gotten little use.   Check used items to be sure they are complete and look for damage that you might not be able to repair.  You will want to set your own guidelines for what you'll pay for used gear.   My usual target is 50% of retail. I might pay more for a particularly rare item or one in exceptionally good condition -- like new-in-the-box.  It mostly depends on now badly I want it and how much disposable cash I have available at the time.

Your own garage/basement/attic.   You may find useful items you already have in your own garage, basement, or attic.  Tools and kitchen implements and small appliances you set aside when you upgraded or replaced them may find new life in your camp gear.  Or you may have duplicates that have accumulated from gifts over the years.  Old clothing, towels, and linens might serve well in camp.   Some tools, like axes and hammers, may have multiple uses around the house and in camp. Why spend money if you already have items you can use?  Allocating duplicate or "retired" items specifically for camping makes spontaneous trips easier.  The old 2-slice toaster you replaced when your family outgrew it may be just the right size for your camper.  Converting items for camping might give you a good excuse for upgrading your kitchen stock at home.   If you have duplicates, or your budget will allow you to acquire extra tools specifically for camping, it will make hitting the road easier and reduce the chances of leaving something important at home. You can save money by using some of your home tools for camping, but you'll have to remember to pack them when you go and to unpack them when you get back.  I may go overboard in this area -- I have separate tools in my motorhome, my garage, and my motorcycle trailer, plus a "race kit" I can toss in the truck when we're going somewhere with the dirt bikes without taking the enclosed motorcycle trailer.  I've never been sorry I brought along any tool.

Rummage sales and church auctions.   Like garage sales, these events can often produce amazing bargains.   It may take some searching through tables of uninteresting junk or piles of musty smelling clothing to find something you want or need, but it is often worth the time and effort.   Since items for these events are usually donated, the seller has no cost-of-goods to recover.   Like garage sales, you'll find the best selection early in the day and can negotiate the best prices near the end of the event.  An old Army field jacket makes a great camping/hiking coat, and it is even more versatile if you can find the fleece liner that adapts them for colder weather.  I've seen them in rummage sales and thrift stores for a few dollars each, often in remarkably good condition.

Make your own.  You can make some of your own camping equipment.  Not only can this be fun, it can save you money.  Don't have a camp stove?  Make a rocket stove from an old 1-gallon tin can and a couple of soup cans.  Hot coals from charcoal briquettes or wood fires will burn through the thin tin over time, but it will be sufficient for preparing several meals, which may be adequate for a short camping trip or to get you through a few days during an emergency, especially if you only burn small twigs.   Check on the Internet for how to make your own "alcohol stoves" too. These usually consist of a roll of toilet paper placed in a 1 qt paint can and saturated with denatured alcohol.  You can make a very efficient "rocket stove" from a #10 can an 4 soup cans.  Rocket stoves can prepare a meal for 4 using just a handful of twigs as fuel.  Simple tents can be formed using inexpensive tarps. They probably won't provide the 360 degree protection you get from a commercially made tent with screened windows, a zippered door, and a sewn-in floor but they'll keep most of the rain off.  You can make up your own "cowboy bedroll" instead of buying expensive sleeping bags.  The ideal and authentic cowboy bedroll is made from sturdy waterproof canvas, but again, an inexpensive tarp will be OK to get you started or in an emergency.  You need enough of this outer material so it is a little longer than as you are tall and wide enough to fold over and under your body.  You lay it out, then lay out blankets, quilts, or comforters, and fold it over in thirds.  When it is done you should have at least 2 layers of the outer material on the bottom and two or three on the top to protect you from cold, wind, and rain.  Having the finished product a little longer than your height by 2 or 3 feet allows you to fold it over to protect your head once you're snuggled inside.   For detailed instructions search "how to make a cowboy bedroll" on the Internet.   If you expect to use it frequently or for a long time, investing in good quality canvas duck for the shell is a good idea.  If you just want to try it out once or twice and inexpensive poly tarp will do.  Simple hotdog and marshmallow cookers can be made from wire coat hangers. I like to bend a handle into one end. Then I slide them into a piece of 3/4" or 1" PVC pipe before I put them in my outside RV cabinets.   It keeps the mess off everything else, keeps them from getting tangled, and even helps keep them cleaner than they would be loose in the bottom of the cabinet.  Burn the paint off the end before you cook your first hot dog or marshmallow so you don't cook the paint into your treat.  After that you'll probably want to burn the rust off the end before mounting your treat.

Get it when you can.  When you see something you'd like to add to your camping gear, get it if you can.  Many times I've thought I'd wait and pick it up later only to find that it was no longer available. I snagged some half price bargains a few weeks ago and when I came back the following week they were already sold out so I was glad I bought them when I could.  There have been many times I've thought "Gee I wish I'd bought xxxxx" but I don't think I have ever looked at any of my camping gear or tools and said "Gee I wish I hadn't bought that!"   Even though I have sometimes accumulated duplicates that later had to be sorted out and passed along to other family members or garage saled, I have never regretted getting any of it, but have often regretted passing up an opportunity.  My wife keeps telling me we need to thin out our camping gear but the last time we did that the kids came asking to borrow stuff shortly thereafter -- even though they had been strong proponents of putting in a garage sale in the first place.  Likewise, it wasn't very long before we found ourselves lamenting having disposed of some of the items.  Being a pack-rat usually isn't productive, but it often pays to be judicious in choosing what to get rid of.  Sometimes, when you're traveling, you'll come across things you don't usually find near home.   Try to give yourself a little room in your budget and your vehicle, to take advantage of such discoveries.   I discovered a locally owned discount auto parts store in the distant city where my parents lived and often augmented my home and RV tool boxes with great bargains I never saw at home almost every time we visited.   But don't assume you can get the same deals on stuff at big box stores when you get home.  I bought some battery powered LED above ground pool lights with remote controls on sale at a Walmart in Colorado to use as tent lights.  I like them so much I wanted more, but I had trouble finding them at any local Walmart and on the Internet when I got home and when I did find a few they were 4 times as costly!  Remember, "Manager Specials" may or may not be the same across different locations of the same retailer.

Shop smart!

Old Fashioned and Nostalgic Camping Options

Camping itself, in any form is a kind of traditional, old-fashioned, nostalgic thing to do, even if you're "roughing it" in a fancy million-dollar motorhome.  But if you want to "go retro" and experience an even greater range of pioneer activities, fall back to tent camping.  If you're already a tent camper, look for pioneer recipes and activities to spice things up.   But even if you still prefer the comfort of an RV, there are lots of traditional fun things you can do in camp.

Often the basis of getting the best of RV-based camping today is the latest gadgets and electronic entertainment systems while enjoying the luxuries of our homes on wheels or finding ever more elaborate and expensive conveniences for tent camping.  Advertisements promote fancy and expensive upgrades and equipment and trying them out can be a lot of fun.  But sometimes it is also fun to step back and try something a little more traditional, perhaps even doing tent camping instead of staying in your RV or trying a more rustic form of roughing it other than fancy, multi-room dome tents.  Or just schedule some traditional activities during your regular outings.  You might substitute a kerosene lantern for the bright Coleman lantern or modern battery powered lights.  Try cooking your bacon and eggs right on the campfire in a cast iron skillet.  Maybe give your breakfast a pioneer flavor by having corn meal mush instead of oatmeal, best served with lots of butter and  honey. Ash cakes are another easy and tasty pioneer treat.  They are simple to make and require few ingredients: flour, salt, baking soda and water.  Bake them directly on the coals or hot rocks.  Then top or fill them with melted butter and honey or your favorite jam or jelly.  Try sleeping outside, under the stars on the grass, or stringing your hammock between some trees some warm summer night.  If you choose to sleep on the beach, make sure you are well away from the high tide mark! Also check for sand fleas before settling down.  And don't forget to practice your survival skills by starting your campfire without matches.   Ever pop popcorn over a campfire?  You might have trouble finding an old-fashioned campfire popcorn cooker, but it will be a fun activity for kids of all ages if you can pull it off.  Search online for "campfire popcorn popper" or "campfire popcorn cooker".  You can also find fun recipes for "campfire popcorn", including an option for cooking it in aluminum foil -- if you can't get a traditional, long-handled campfire popcorn cooker.   We like pies cooked in campfire pie cookers.  They are long-handled, clam-shell type devices into which you place 2 slices of bread and put in your favorite pie filling.   I was surprised how much the toasted bread tasted like pie crust.

Back to basics.  If you're an RV camper, you might want to occasionally try tent camping trip for variety.   If you're not sure you're up to it, maybe pitch a tent beside your RV so you can escape to its comfort if things get too bad outside.  If your activities include horseback riding, hiking, or backpacking, consider spending a night or two on the trail in a cowboy bedroll instead of your $200 E.L.Bean sleeping bag or under the down comforter in your RV.

Campfire cooking instead of using your RV or Coleman stove offers primitive flavor to meals in camp (pun intended!).  It can be quite an experience preparing meals on the fire and it may take a while to get used to it.  Chances are you'll have under- and over-cooked parts of your meal until you master the technique, so be patient!  Getting everything ready at the same time takes practice.  Cooking can be done directly on the coals of the fire using cast iron cookware.  A campfire grill will add a lot of convenience.  There are several styles.  Some have legs that fold down at each end and create a sort of bridge over the fire.  Some have rigid legs.  They are usually a little more stable, but are clumsier to transport.  Another option is an 18" round grill that fastens to two steel posts using thumb screws.   Just drive the posts into the ground with the grill over you fire (or build your fire under the grill).  One I saw has a patented raised edge to keep food from sliding off into the fire.  You might be able to make your own from the grill from a defunct backyard BBQ.  I used such a grill for a cooking surface on our portable "R2D2" fire pit.   R2D2 is the tub salvaged from on old washing machine.   I use the agitator tube in the center to support a grill when we want to cook on it.   Of course, you can cook over a campfire without a grill or without any cookware for that matter: meats and even bread can be cooked on a stick.  Remember, things cook best over the coals, not in the flames.  Most of us don't have the patience to wait for a good bed of coals before we start burning our meals over the flames, but for best culinary results, cook over coals.  Then you can enjoy roasted instead of burned hot dogs and marshmallows.

Candlelight.  Candlelight is a nice way to add a romantic touch to dinner in your RV or at camp. Citronella candles are also helpful in keeping insects away outdoors.  If you're going to be eating outside you may want to look for some windproof candle holders.  They usually look like little lanterns with glass sides that shield the candle from the wind.  Avoid using candles inside a tent, even if they are protected.  If one gets knocked over on the floor or against a wall, poof!   Your whole tent goes up in flames!  Even though most tents are treated to be fire-resistant, I wouldn't want to bet my life on them being fire proof!

Quilts can add an old-fashioned touch to sitting around camp or sleeping.  In pioneer times quilts were essential to winter survival and our ancestors developed remarkedly good techniques for making them warm and sturdy.  These days we mostly lean toward high-tech sleeping bags or comforters so a home-made quilt is sort of novelty for most of us.   Our high tech sleeping options are carefully engineered to be warm and comfortable but you might be surprised just how warm and comfortable homemade quilts can be and they make an interesting item of conversation.   I also have a couple of "Indian" blankets we use when camping.   I'm pretty sure mine are commercial replicas instead of authentic items, but they're still kind of fun and very cozy.  If you can lay your hands on the real thing, they'd be even more fun to use and to share with your fellow campers . A family quilt or a blanket with lots of family history can be quite a conversation piece and sharing its story may warm your heart as much as the quilt or blanket does your body.   A heavy Mexican serape is a nice way to stay warm around the campfire with an authentic old west flair.

Bundling describes an age-old tradition of two people wrapping themselves together in blankets to keep warm.   The definition I found online is:  "former custom of an unmarried couple's occupying the same bed without undressing especially during courtship".   Seems particularly appropriate and appealing when camping.

Stargazing is more interesting and rewarding once you get out away from city lights.  All you need is a star chart and clear skies.  It is fun, entertaining, and educational to find constellations. Almost each one has an interesting history behind its name.   I found it interesting that the "Seven Sisters" actually consists of only six stars, but its identity as seven stars is consistent across many different cultures.  Apparently sometime in the distant past there were seven stars there.   It is the model for the logo for Subaru.  If you want to deepen your experience, invest in a telescope.  I think the one I've used is just an 85mm model, yet with it I can see the rings of Saturn, the red color of Mars, and the famous Red Spot on Jupiter.  BTW, the moon is too bright to explore using a telescope unless you add filters to reduce the glare.  Ordinary binoculars can give you a better view of some of the craters and enhance star gazing but even then you will probably need filters so the glare doesn't hurt your eyes.  After all, moonlight is reflected sunlight.  When looking at the moon you are indirectly looking at the sun.

Themed outings.  It can be a lot of fun to plan an outing around a special theme, like cowboys, pioneers, miners, trappers, mountain men, or historical military events.  You might even try using a teepee instead of tent if you have the means to purchase, borrow, or construct one.  Do some research to make your outing as authentic as possible.   Try to use period clothing, tools, menus, and activities. Today's kids are inundated by electronic games and modern sports.  Check out some pioneer games on the Internet.   You'll be surprised how much your kids and grand kids might enjoy them.   An old-fashioned tug-of-war is suitable for almost any group and requires only a sturdy rope.  A tug-of-war is made more interesting if there is a mud puddle in the middle for the losers to get pulled in to, especially if it is a hot day.  Another good physical game is the "stick pull" and can be done with just two people. The participants sit facing each other with the soles of their feet together and hold onto the same sturdy stick with both hands. Start with the stick centered between the two contestants.  The object of the game is for one person to pull the other person over. It is harder than it sounds and a lot of fun both to do and to watch!  When was the last time you participated in a sack race or three-legged race?  You don't need a lot of expensive equipment for activities like these and can organize them just about anywhere.  Of course they're more comfortable on nice grass or beach than rough, rocky desert ground, but difficult terrain may just add to the challenge (and provide opportunities to practice your first aid skills).

Check out the options for alternate adventures.  One I've read about and find appealing but haven't had a chance to try yet is a wagon train outing in Death Valley.   Or, you might look into a cattle drive, a la "City Slickers".   Even without the commercialism of the dude ranch setting of the movie, you might hook up with a real cattleman.   If you opt for something like this, prepare yourself physically and mentally for the activities you'll be expected and even required to perform.  Riding a horse for 8-12 hours a day is not something most of us are accustomed to doing -- or even riding in a wagon or stagecoach.  You'll find it a lot more physically demanding than you might expect.  If you're up to it, you might want to sign up for a one or two week survival school.  That will not only be fun and challenging, but you'll learn valuable skills and gain insight into your own character.   River rafting is another "back to nature" adventure that is usually quite exciting.  Check around.  There are various levels of rafting trips from leisurely family floats to demanding white-water trips to choose from.  I've done the Colorado River from Blythe to Yuma in canoes with the Boy Scouts, a family trip on the Rogue River in Oregon, and a white water trip on the Kern River in southern California.  Now that we live on the McKenzie River in Oregon we're looking forward to a white water trip this summer that includes Class 3 and 4 rapids!  Each one had its own special appeal and created many good memories.  On ANY water adventure, make sure you always wear appropriate flotation devices in case you end up in the water instead of on it!   And make sure you pack your gear in waterproof bags.   And, no, Ziploc sandwich bags aren't waterproof enough if your gear gets dumped overboard! Invest is some good, marine-grade waterproof containers, especially for cameras, electronic equipment, dry foods, and medications.  Plastic containers like Tupperware are better than plastic bags, but unless they have secure latches they can still pop open.  True waterproof containers will have secure locking mechanisms to tightly clamp down the seals and keep them from accidentally coming open.

Water sports are pretty much a guaranteed hit on hot summer afternoons.  Try bringing along enough squirt guns for the whole group (you can probably pick some up at your local "dollar store") and enjoy cooling each other off while practicing your marksmanship.  A squirt gun fight often brings back memories of days gone by for us "older" folks and creates lasting memories for the youngsters.  I was always surprised how boyish and playful my father became with a squirt gun in his hand. Today's "super soakers" are a really good way to cool each other off on a hot summer day -- if you have an adequate water supply to keep them filled.  Lacking a handy faucet for refilling water guns you might want to invest in a plethora of extras and pre-fill them for long lasting enjoyment.  When you run out you simple grab a replacement instead of stopping to refill.

Campfire activities are traditional hits for evenings.   Sing-a-longs, story telling, and charades are all classic options.  Ghost stories are a popular theme and seem to gain special believeability around a campfire.  Bring along your acoustic guitar and bone up on folk songs and traditional campfire favorites.   Other traditional instruments include banjo, fiddle, tambourine, and harmonica.  In case you didn't know, a fiddle is the same thing as a violin, just played in a different style.   A harmonica is an especially good choice if you're hiking or back packing since is small and light weight and fits in a pocket.  Even Survivorman carries a harmonica on most of his adventures.  Or, just sitting and watching the flames can be a relaxing way to end the day -- and stay warm and cozy as it cools down after the sun goes down.  Recounting the day's activities or planning tomorrow's are common campfire topics.  You don't really need any planned activities for a campfire to be a successful nostalgic activity.  Things will usually kind of take their own course.

Swap your bright, hissing Coleman lantern for an old-fashioned kerosene lantern.   The flickering yellowish light offers far more ambiance with an Old West flair.  They are quiet and can be turned down low for a romantic dinner in camp.   If you don't like the smell of kerosene, fill your lantern with liquid parafin (which is odorless) or a fragrant lamp oil.   Citronella lamp oil will help keep bugs away.

Traditional indoor games are especially good for passing the time on rainy afternoons or when it is too cold or windy around the campfire at night.  Various card games, board games, and puzzles take up little room and provide hours of entertainment for young and old.  Or bring along a few good books or those magazines you've been meaning to catch up on.   I find RV and OHV magazines have special appeal when I'm actually involved in related activities.  Try having a taffy-pull.   Not only is it a fun activity, but the product is very tasty!  Make popcorn over the campfire.

Easy outdoor games with a pioneer flair include a tug-of-war and a stick pull.   For a tug of war you'll need about 40-50' of heavy rope.  Tie a rag in the middle to serve as a scoring device or, for the really ambitious, set up your tug-of-war across a mud pit so the losers get dragged into the mud.  For a stick pull you just need some sticks or dowels about 2-2 1/2' long and about 1 1/2" in diameter.  Sometimes you can find natural branches lying around that will do the trick.  Two people set with the soles of their feet together and both grasp the stick and pull.  The object is for one to pull the other over.   It isn't as easy as it sounds and it involves more strategy and leverage than brute strength. Various forms of tag can be a lot of fun and usually don't require any special equipment.   Group games like "Red Rover" and "Mother May I" can be played just about anywhere you have enough people and a reasonably clear and level playing area.

Choose a rustic or nostalgic campground.  These days there are tons of "luxury" campgrounds with fancy swimming pools and lots of electronic games to attract visitors.   If you're looking for a more nostalgic experience, search out a remote mountain resort where you may find cozy cabins, wooded camp sites, open fire pits, horseshoes, and plenty of nature instead of fancy resorts with tons of amenities.  And you might even save money!

When it comes to nostalgic camping activities I generally recommend foregoing electronic entertainment devices, but movie night can be a fun activity too, if you have the facilities for it. Watching a favorite family or classic movie in your RV is a good option when the weather isn't inviting.   Or choose a movie that is relevant to your site or activity.   Movies have been around long enough now that many of them qualify as "nostalgic".   For broader social appeal, you might use a modern LCD projector to display the movie on the side of your RV for the whole camp to enjoy. Granted, this is moving more toward high tech than nostalgic, but many movies can be quite nostalgic even if the technology to present them is not.   One enterprising camp store at Kennedy Meadows in the Sequoia National Forest in California we frequented during summer months ran 16mm movies they got free from the local library on weekends to attract visitors.   I lost track of the number of classic films we watched there.   Of course the store sold lots of sodas, popcorn, and ice cream snacks because of their free movies.   I applaud their innovative approach.   With light weight portable generators, movie night is even an option for tent campers.  A lot of classic movies can be found in the bargain bins at Walmart and similar stores.  With a little careful selection and a little research they might even be educational (but don't tell the kids that!).  And don't forget the popcorn, which, by the way, if popped over a campfire can be adventure in itself.

Have some good old-fashioned fun!

Organizing Provisions and Supplies

Knowing what to bring along on a camping trip is only half the battle. The other half is acquiring and organizing it so it will be safe and you can find what you need when you need it. Acquiring provisions is mostly a matter of making a list and going out and buying what you need.  Organizing your provisions and supplies in an RV is much like organizing things at home, only in a smaller space. Organizing your stuff for tent camping is more of a challenge and an opportunity to be creative. If you can't find something when you need it, why even bother to bring it in the first place?

Deciding what to bring. The first step in provisioning for a trip is to outline your needs: where are you going? How long will you be gone? How many people are in your group? Any food allergies or special dietary needs? Will you be able to purchase additional supplies on your trip? Once you know these things you can begin making a menu. Follow the KISS principle: Keep It Simple, Stupid. Camping is usually not an appropriate time for gourmet meals. However, if you want to plan special meals for special occasions, go right ahead. Just realize it may mean you have to bring extra supplies and equipment and allow extra time for setup, preparation, serving, and cleanup. Ready-to-eat meals are convenient for camping, but they can be expensive and are not always the most appetizing or nutritious. Try to stick with simple meals that only require basic ingredients and are easy to prepare and require little cleanup. The last thing you want to do is spend your camping trip repeatedly scrubbing pots and pans.

Acquiring provisions. Acquiring provisions may be as simple as a trip the grocery store unless you have special needs. If you plan ahead, you can accumulate a lot of non-perishable items over time to spread out the cost and take advantage of sales and coupons. Generally avoid giant sized containers unless you are feeding a large group or KNOW you will use them up quickly. You certainly don't need a bunch of half-empty, open containers that can spoil or spill in an RV or taking up room in your tent camping bins. A best approach is "right sizing" -- buy the right size for the number of people and number of meals on your trip. It is unlikely a 50# bag of flour will be necessary unless you're feeding a whole troop, but a 1 or 2 quart-size plastic container full may be handy for an any outing.  You might need to do some extra shopping to pick up specialty items, like Snow Cone syrup from a restaurant supply store instead of the grocery store.

Organizing your RV. Let's start by dividing things into two broad categories: indoor and outdoor items. Indoor items would include food, kitchen utensils, clothing, medicine, sundries, and indoor entertainments. Outdoor items would include major tools, firewood, RV fluids, outside electrical cords, fresh water hoses, sewer hoses, and outdoor recreational items. Hand tools can fall into both categories. I keep a small general tool kit inside my RV where it is handy for routine repairs. My larger tool kit, with socket sets and full wrench sets that may be needed for major repairs resides in an outside compartment, positioned so it is easily accessed.

Galley organization. Use the way you organize your home kitchen as a starting point for organizing your RV galley.  Keep things in as familiar an arrangement as possible. Because the cabinets are smaller you may have to make some compromises, but the closer you can maintain consistency, the easier and more convenient using your RV galley will be. You want often used things within easy reach and in familiar places. One thing you will probably have to do without is the "junk drawer" most of us have in our kitchens at home. If you need a place to gather odds and ends together, a plastic shoebox or other sturdy container might do the trick and could be stored under the dinette or sofa without sacrificing convenient space for more critical items. When choosing plates, bowls, cups, glasses, etc, remember your RV is going to be bouncing around. Avoid delicate or fragile pieces that can be easily damaged. There is some beautiful acrylic stemware that rival crystal for beauty yet is relatively impervious to bouncing around in an RV. China plates are elegant and beautiful, but Melmac or stainless steel or even the old pioneer-style "speckle ware" are more durable, usually lighter, and very appropriate for camping. If you're not familiar with "speckle ware", it is made of porcelain covered steel, usually dark blue with white specks. The plates, bowls, and cups are made of steel and are coated with porcelain. They are attractive, easy to clean, and very durable -- but the porcelain finish is subject to chipping if they are dropped or handled roughly. Plain old paper plates are always a good bet when camping. I like to use them with plastic or wicker holders since most paper plates are fairly flimsy. My favorite plate holders are made of plastic and have a lip molded into the bottom into which the top rim of a soda can fits snugly, giving me both a place to keep track of my soda and a sturdy handle to steady my plate. Plastic flatware is light weight and can be either re-used or discarded, depending on your preference and whether you'd rather do dishes while camping or spend more little more money. Ordinary stainless flatware is a good option. It is durable and a little classier than the plastic stuff, although I've seen some very elegant clear plastic and even silver finish flatware I would be proud to serve to any guest. Obviously, perishable provisions should go in the refrigerator or be kept in an ice chest. When it comes to storing non-perishable items, put light items in upper cupboards and heavy items, like canned goods, down low. If a cabinet comes open during an unexpectedly violent traffic maneuver the last thing you need is a can of chili flying toward your head. A bag of potato chips, box of cereal, or loaf of bread, would be a lot less painful. In addition, the lighter items will be less likely to knock the cabinet open in the first place. You may want to bring your favorite pots and pans, especially if you are planning any special meals that might require them. However, for more convenience for routine camping, we like to stock our RV with its own set of cookware. Cookware designed for RV or camping use is compact, usually stacks together for efficient storage, and has creative, multi-use items that maximize functionality while minimizing space and weight.  For example, the lid for the big pot usually is also a frying pan.

Medicine and sundries. These are typically stored in the cabinets in the bathroom or bedroom area. Because space is limited, choose "travel size" items and take advantage of multi-use items such as combined shampoo/conditioner/body wash to reduce both space and weight without losing functionality.  Small items can be secured in small plastic containers so they don't cascade out every time you open the cabinet door.

Clothing. Most RVs have some closet space and some drawer or cupboard space to help you organize your on board wardrobe. If the space in your unit is insufficient, put your clothing in duffle bags or plastic tubs and store it under the dinette or on the bed (you can move it to the shower or some front seating area to get it out of your way at bed time).

Outdoor cabinets. You will want to plan the use of your outdoor cabinets to maximize convenience and usability. Things you use frequently and things related to activities under or near your RV awning should be stored in curb-side cabinets. Fresh water hoses and sewer hoses should be stored near the connections in street-side cabinets. Try to keep fresh water hoses and sewer hoses in different places to avoid contamination. Some folks like to use cloth tote bags to store hoses and extension cords, keeping them from getting tangled and helping to keep them clean. I like to keep spare fluids (oil, transmission fluid, brake fluid, antifreeze) in a curb-side cabinets in case I have to access them alongside a busy roadway. Same with my big tool box. I put the fluids in a plastic tub in case they drip or spill.  Things you won't use until you are in camp can be relegated to street-side cabinets.

Organizing for tent camping. I have found moderate size plastic tubs very convenient for tent camping. I like the ones that are translucent rather than opaque so I can kind of see what is inside. Large containers are bulky to store and heavy to move about. Moderate sizes fit into the trunk or back seat or cargo area better and are easier to move from storage to vehicle to picnic table and back. It is also easier to find things if there isn't so much stuff all jammed in together. Put like things and things that will be used together, together in the same tub. If you have any trouble remembering where things are, mark the contents on the outside with a felt tip pen or attach labels. Many of the recommendations given above for selecting cookware, tableware, and flatware for RVing are applicable to tent camping as well. Having things well organized and keeping them well organized will make it faster and easier to get on the road at the beginning of a trip and at each stop and get things put away when you get back. If you have room to transport it, a chuck box is a good way to organize your camp kitchen for convenient use.  When you get to camp, organize your camp site for efficiency and convenience. If you have access to water, put your camp kitchen near your source of water but away from restrooms. Keep a trash bag or trash can nearby. Set up your tent upwind from the fire pit and restrooms if possible. Keep a shovel and/or a bucket of water near your fire pit. String out clothes lines where you can hang clothing and towels to dry and sleeping bags to air out. If you air out your sleeping bags every morning, they will be more pleasant to sleep in and they will keep you warmer at night. If you sleep in them or roll them up while they are still damp, you will compress the fill and reduce the amount of insulation they provide to keep you warm. Hang some ribbons on clothes lines when not in use so someone doesn't walk into them. If you don't have any attractive ribbons, tear some strips from grocery bags. You want the line to be clearly visible.

"A place for everything and everything in its place."   Its more than clever thing Grandma used to say and it isn't just a motto of people with OCD.  It is a very useful guideline for organization.  Figure out the best place for every item you bring along, then make sure it gets put back in its proper place every time after you use it.  I'm kind of anal about putting my tools back in their proper place in the tool box, even if I expect to be using them again fairly soon.  Sure, it takes a few minutes to wipe them down and put them away, but in the long run it saves time that would otherwise be wasted trying to figure out where I last used them or where I left them.  And it saves often saves the expense of replacing lost tools.

Some folks think organization is restrictive. In reality, organization is the key to freedom. By being organized you will be free to pursue the recreational activities you came out for instead of wasting time searching for things you need. A little time spent organizing your provisions for convenience will pay big dividends in camp. Being able to find what you need when you need it is kind of fun. Not being able to find it when you need it is very aggravating and wastes a lot of time.

Get your stuff together!

Tent Camping Gear Storage

You will probably store your tent camping gear in your garage, basement, or a shed.  If you live in apartment you may have to stuff it in a closet or under a bed.  Wherever you choose to store it, the area should be clean, well organized, easily accessible, and secure.   If possible, keep all your camping gear in one secure location.  You may need to store your stove, lantern and fuel separately in a well-ventilated outside shed for safety reasons.  Never store anything with fuel in it in or adjacent to a living space.  That includes gas cans, propane cylinders, and lanterns and stoves with residual fuel.

Organize your camping gear in plastic tubs to protect it from dust, pests, and weather and to make it easy to find, transport, and use.  I like to use translucent tubs so I can see a little of what is inside.  I also find it useful to label each tub with its contents using a Magic Marker or adhesive labels.  Most storage tubs have recessed lids so they stack nicely on top of each other without sliding around a lot. How you organize your stuff is up to you.  Make it easy on yourself.  Sometimes soft-sided suitcases or duffle bags may fit more easily in limited spaces.  Here are some general suggestions if you don't know where to start:

Put all your galley/kitchen stuff together in one or two tubs or bags.  I use one for big stuff like pots and pans and a second one for smaller stuff like plates, utensils, pot holders, measuring cups, spices, lighters, etc.  You will want to put foodstuffs in a separate tub also.  Put all your cleaning supplies in a separate tub.  That way, if any bottle leaks, it won't spoil anything but other cleaning stuff and won't contaminate your cookware or pollute your food.  Be aware that some cleaning solutions may interact with each other so take care not to store potentially reactive items together.  Ammonia and bleach come immediately to mind as when combined they will toxic fumes, mostly chlorine gas.  Choline gas can cause severe problems but usually isn't fatal if treated.

Sleeping bags should NOT be stored all tightly rolled up.   It compresses the filling and makes them rather useless.   I learned that the hard way.  I had left my cold weather bag tightly rolled after a back packing trip and the next time I tried to use it I about froze!   When I felt it and held it up to the light, I could barely find anything left of the filling.  I it was like having just two very thin sheets of nylon to protect me!  If you have someplace you can hang them, that is one of the best ways to store them.  If not, fold them loosely and store them in plastic tubs to keep them safe from moisture, dust, and pests or stuff them in a "stuff sack".  Even though packing them into a stuff sack compresses the filling somewhat, the random way it is packed and looser environment is less damaging than when it is tightly rolled.   If possible, it is a good idea to hang sleeping bags so they can air out and the fill can expand.  At least do this for a day or so before you store them if you don't have a safe place to hang them between trips.  Putting them through a warm cycle in a clothes dryer with a few tennis balls can also help restore loft as well as removing any residual moisture.

Tents often come with their own storage bags and those should be sufficient for most storage needs.  Sometimes it is hard to get a tent back into its original bag.  In that case you might pick up a larger duffle bag from a sporting goods store, military surplus store, or even a thrift store.   Keep all the parts together -- tent, poles, pegs, ropes, rain fly.  Also keep any tools you need to erect the tent with the tent.  I usually keep a hammer or mallet and a pry bar with mine.  The hammer is, obviously, needed to drive the pegs and the pry bar makes it a lot easier getting them out when the time comes. Another trick for pulling tent pegs is to grab the tent and the loop so you can get a good grip.  Then pull the peg straight out of the ground.   If is was driven at an angle, pull it out at the same angle.   Exercise caution when doing this or you are likely to tear the loops or the tent.  A tent peg removal tool can also be useful.  It has a hook on one end to lock onto the peg and a handle on the other, allowing you to stand up and use the strength of your legs to pull the pegs out of the ground.  I have some other tools and accessories I keep with my tent: a small broom or whisk broom (for sweeping out the tent daily), a battery powered lantern, and a small rug or welcome mat.   Since these are all part of my tent set up, I like to keep them all with the tent.  If you use a tent heater, store it with your tent too, if you can.  It doesn't have to be in the same duffle bag, but putting next to it on the shelf will keep it handy.   Keep in mind the heater may contain residual fuel or fumes and for safety reasons, should be stored in a well-ventilated area separate from any structure connected to your living area.

Camping tools should all be kept together in a convenient tool box, duffle bag, plastic tub or crate.   If you have a lot of stuff, you may need to break it down into to multiple containers to make it easier to handle.   Better to have two smaller tool boxes than one big one that is too heavy to move. Always clean and inspect your tools before putting them into storage.  Not only will this help prevent rust and corrosion, it will help you check for damage and provide an inventory control to ensure everything is ready for your next trip.  Unfortunately, things sometimes tend to disappear on camping trips and its always better to discover it sooner rather than later so you can replace missing items before you need them.

Camp clothing will probably need to be laundered before it goes back into storage.  Anything that doesn't normally live in your regular closet or dresser, should be neatly folded and stored in well-marked plastic tubs.   An exception might be rain coats or other long coats that you might want to hang up in plastic zipper bags.

Camp stoves and heaters are mostly self-contained or come in their own cases.  Traditional Coleman style gas stoves are self-storing within the main structure of the stove.  If you have an oven or toaster you use with your camp stove, store it with the stove.  You might find a small briefcase, duffle bag, or suitcase that will fit your collapsed oven and toaster, making it easy to keep everything together and easy to store and transport.   Because your gas stove probably contains unused fuel or fumes, store your stoves only in a well-ventilated area outside of your living space.  Propane stoves are pretty safe to store anywhere once the propane cylinder is removed and properly stored.

Camp lanterns, with their glass globes and silk-ash mantles, can be quite fragile.  There are special carrying cases made for many of the Colman gas lanterns and you'll find them well worth the investment.   Lacking one, wrap your lantern in an old towel and put it in a plastic tub that is just big enough to hold it and any related items, like spare mantles, spare generators, lighters, etc.   Make sure it is ventilated so any fumes that may leak from the lantern don't accumulate in the container.  Store your gas lanterns only in a well-ventilated area away from your living space.  Like propane stoves, propane lanterns can be stored inside once the propane cylinder is removed and safely stored.  Most currently available lantern cases are plastic clamshells that surround the lantern.  I kind of like the older steel cases because they are more square and fit in storage areas better.  Not all lanterns are the same size and shape.  Make sure any case you buy will fit your lantern.  Speaking of lantern storage, I found the "accessory safe" that clamps to the base of Coleman lanterns a good place to store spare mantles, generators, and the wrench that came with my lanterns so they're always handy.

Camping fuels need to be stored safely in a well ventilated area.  They should only be stored in approved containers.  Never put fuel into an any old plastic jug!  Many plastics will be eaten up by the fuel.   Don't believe it?   Pour a few ounces of gasoline in a styrofoam cup for an accelerated demonstration.  Be sure the cup is sitting in a leak-proof metal pan because within seconds, the cup will have dissolved and the gasoline will be going everywhere!  Plastic gasoline containers are made of special materials that are impervious to gasoline and are safe for transporting and storing gasoline, but old milk jugs, water bottles, and bleach containers are not safe. They won't melt immediately like styrofoam, but they will deteriorate over a fairly short time, allowing fuel to leak out.  If, in an emergency, you must transport gasoline in an unapproved container, use an old oil bottle or jug. Those have at least some resistance to petroleum products.   Don't store fuel inside your home, not even in your basement or garage.  Any leak that might develop from improper storage, abuse, or accident, and release fumes that could be explosive.  Storing fuel in an attached garage isn't a good idea.  Better to keep it an an outside storage building away from your residence.   Storing it in a detached garage reduces the risk to your home, but may place vehicles and other contents of the garage at risk.   Water heaters are often located in garages and basements and can be a source of ignition for any fumes that escape from improperly stored fuel.  Water heaters installed in garages are placed on elevated platforms to keep the igniters above the level where leaking gas normally accumulates.  Fumes are VERY dangerous.  If you fill an open 1 gallon can to the top with gasoline and drop a match into, the match will go out.  But if you put about an inch of gas in the bottom of the can, then drop in the match, the fumes on top will explode violently!  I read about a guy who left an acetylene tank for his welder in the trunk of his Mercedes.  Apparently the valve wasn't tightly closed.  About 3:00 am the electric clock way up in the dashboard created enough of a spark to ignite errant fumes that had accumulated in the trunk and seeped into the passenger compartment and the resulting explosion destroyed his garage and knocked out windows for a 3 block radius!  On another occasion a flight line worker at an air base spilled jet fuel on his coveralls.  He wisely went to the line shack to change but once inside  got distracted watching some other works on break playing cards.  The fumes from his wet coveralls filled the room until they reached the flash point and were ignited by the heater, blowing the entire shack and everyone in it to smitherines.  If you fill a #10 can to the top with gasoline and toss in a match, the match will go out.  If you put a little gasoline in the bottom of the can and toss in a match, the fumes will ignite with explosive force!  The flash point is different for each kind of fuel and sometimes low enough that you can't smell the fumes before they reach the ignition point.

Many storage areas, such as sheds, garages, and basements, may subject your gear to an accumulation of dust over time.  If this is the case where you are storing your equipment, cover it with a tarp or put individual items or containers in plastic trash bags to protect them from the dust. When it comes time to use your equipment again, it will be a lot easier to remove the dusty tarps or bags than to clean the equipment or their individual containers.  The dusty bags may be cleaned and reused or discarded and new ones used when equipment is put back in storage.   Either way, dealing with the dusty plastic bags will be easier and faster than letting your gear become contaminated in storage and having to clean it before you can use it again. Y ou might even want to put covers over your plastic bins so you don't have to spend time cleaning them before a trip.

Organization is a key to having things ready to use when you need them -- for your next camping trip or as emergency supplies.  A good suggestion to follow is to keep related things together.  Store sleeping bags, blankets, cots, and sleeping pads near each other.  Put all your tents and canopies in one place.  Put lanterns and flashlights in close proximity to each other.   Store all your kitchen and cleaning supplies together.   First aid kits and other medical supplies should be together.  Wood cutting tools, like axes, saws, and wedges should be grouped .  Coats, jackets, and other camp clothing should be grouped in plastic bins or stored hanging in plastic protectors.  The flimsy little plastic covers you get back with dry cleaning are better than nothing, but I prefer to use suit bags or heavy contractor rated garbage bags for optimum protection.

If you don't have good space in your garage or basement consider purchasing a small enclosed trailer for your camping gear.  The trailer can be used both to transport your gear to camp and to store it at home.  We snagged an old stripped down Apache tent trailer to tote our camping gear.  It has a clam-shell roof that provides excellent protection from weather and rather good security. We have found it a good place to keep our camping gear year round, freeing up space in the garage for other things and being ready at a moment's notice for spontaneous outings.

Long term storage.  When putting your stuff in storage for winter you'll want to make some special preparations to ensure it will be in good condition when you take it out again next season.   Make sure your tent is clean and dry.   Unpack sleeping bags and hang them out or fold them loosely to avoid over-compressing the loft and destroying the insulation.  Empty fuel from stoves and lanterns. Remove any provisions that might freeze or leak.  Place all dry ingredients in pest-proof/leak-proof plastic containers.  Make sure all your gear clean and in good repair.   Discard any outdated provisions and medications.Sharpen axes and knives and rub a light coat of oil on them and other metal parts to inhibit rust and corrosion.  Rub a little linseed oil on wooden handles to help preserve them as well.

RV, OHV, and Camping Public Events

You may find it fun and interesting to attend various organized RV, OHV, and camping events. There are many types of events you can choose from.   Some are industry based events to showcase (and sell) new products.  Some are consumer or club based "camporees" that are just for fun.  There are numerous trade shows throughout the country.  State and federal agencies sometimes sponsor events to promote parks and other attractions.  You may get invited to a "free" weekend at a commercial campground.  These are usually tied to a mandatory presentation about their membership camping organization.  If you're already considering membership camping, it is a good way to get information about the resources and costs for the sponsoring organization and begin comparing offerings. In my experience the presentations are usually well done but too often I've found the sales pitch afterwards to be pretty pushy, usually hitting you with a "buy it now or never get another chance" scenario.  To me that is an immediate turn off and my queue to head for the door!  Other events may be sponsored by local communities, pubic agencies, camping organizations, etc.  Many are free or low cost.   Look for outings sponsored by local Good Sam chapters or other camping or OHV clubs for fun social activities with fellow campers.  Some events may require membership, but others may be open to visitors.   Camping with other folks with the same brand of RV or with the same interests as you adds a measure of fun, sharing, and education and can help you develop a network for assistance if needed.

Trade shows, put on by industry organizations, manufacturers, and dealers usually provide access to a variety of new products and services and are an excellent way to get some close up experience with new equipment.  It can be a lot of fun to wander from vendor to vendor and learn about new options. Many times they will offer special show pricing on products and services.  Sometimes you will see new products being introduced that aren't in the stores yet and it is a good time to snatch them up while you can.  Not all the good ideas you'll see at trade shows will make it into full production and distribution so keep that in mind.  If you see something you really like, you should probably grab it while you can.!  Trade shows usually include some workshops that are often very well attended.   Some are free or included in your admission.   Some premium workshops may charge an extra fee but they are usually well worth it if you are interested in the topic.  Some workshops are designed to demonstrate new products and, of course, they will want to sell you those products before you leave the area.   Cooking classes often have a lot of good ideas for camp menus and preparation but are sometimes a thinly veiled pitch for cookware or specialized camping food.  They may be sponsored by dealers of cook sets, utensils, or food products so expect them to include a sales pitch.  A big turn off for me is when they use the "you only get this one chance" line.  I figure if they have a good product but I'm not ready to buy it right now, there is no legitimate justification for such limitations.  In fact, even if I may have had some interest in making a purchase I may walk out when they start with the arm twisting tactics.  I don't think it is ever a good idea to reward bad behavior.

Forest Service, BLM, and State Parks agencies sometimes have open houses at various places to familiarize potential patrons with the facilities.  Or they may have booths at other RV/Camping/OHV events where you can learn about their offerings.   Camping at government facilities is usually reasonably priced, sometimes even free!

Pubic celebrations, local holidays, and festivals, are all good excuses for an RV/OHV/camping experience.   Even if you only "camp" in your RV for the day in the parking lot or along the street, your RV will make a good base of operations to explore the activities.  Watch for events sponsored by the US Forest Service, National Parks, your local county and state parks, and the Bureau of Land Management.  These events will usually be free and loaded with good information about local destinations for your outdoor exploration.   Sometimes commercial campgrounds will have an "open house" where you have an opportunity to explore their facility.  National parks may require a fee for some destinations and activities.

Camping clubs such as the RVer's Good Sam Club or local outdoor organizations based on specific interests such as hiking, fishing, bird watching, horseback or OHV riding, are an excellent opportunity to socialize with fellow campers with similar interests.   Many RV brands have their own clubs where you can share experiences and tips about your RV and your camping experiences.  Look for local organizations for your favorite activity too and check with rangers at county, state, and federal recreation areas to identify clubs that might be of interest to you and your family.  A good example is Tin Can Tourists, an all make and model vintage trailer and camper club. 

OHV clubs can often be found at the local and state levels and each may offer unique opportunities for group activities.  Events may include rides, service projects, and educational activities.  Sometimes an event may combine multiple functions.  Here in Utah we have the Utah Trail Machine Association (UTMA).  California has the California Off Road Vehicle Association (CORVA).  You can find similar organizations in almost every state.  Our Utah Trail Machine Association sponsors "High Five", a clean-up day at Five Mile Pass every spring.   In addition to being a service project where we pick up trash and clean out and rebuild fire pits throughout the Five Mile Pass Recreation Area, we provide rider education through literature and presentations by relevant organizations, then wrap up the day with a family ride to a local point of interest.  The stated goals of High Five are: public service, rider education, and family fun.  Many OHV or campground service projects follow a similar pattern.  Even without the family ride, doing a service project as a family can be a lot of fun as well as making a nice contribution toward supporting our outdoor resources. 

Family events lend themselves very well to RV and camping activities.   Family reunions make excellent camping activities.   An extended family may include people from many walks of life having various camping lifestyles.  An ideal location for a family event in cases like this would be a resort that includes cabins or motel rooms, RV spaces, and tent camping spaces.   That way, everyone can be comfortable and enjoy the family associations and activities rather than have to focus on adapting to an unfamiliar lifestyle.   In some cases you might have an extended family that all are RV/OHV fans.  In that case, you can have your event in a remote, primitive camping area where you can all take advantage of your OHVs.  Some things that will enhance the event and make it more convenient and fun for everyone might include staking out an area large enough to "circle the wagons" in the tradition of the Old West wagon trains, with a central campfire for shared activities.   If you have a large group, having an easily identified event headquarters, such as a labeled EZ-up and a portable PA system can help facilitate coordination of activities.   Schedule various activities to appeal to different age groups and interests.  A fun tradition at our family reunions was a gift exchange.   Each family was requested to bring a home-made craft gift to share with other families. You can be creative on how the gifts are distributed.   Sometimes you might use them for prizes for the winners of certain games or you might just put all the names in a hat and use a raffle format.  I still have in my motorhome the crocheted napkin holder we got at one family reunion and we use it regularly.  Family reunions are particularly good places to share family history and exchange information with people you may not see very often.

Sports events, such as auto racing and football, have become magnets for "tailgate parties".  These are social gatherings in the parking lot or at a nearby park before or after the event itself.   RVs are convenient for these gatherings since you have built in cooking, sanitation, and entertainment facilities, but you can have a fun tailgate party from the back of your pick up or even from the trunk of your car.  You will usually find you'll be more comfortable if you have some form of shade (RV awning or free-standing canopy) and comfortable chairs in addition to a supply of your favorite foods, snacks, and beverages.  Beer and wine are often favored at tailgate parties but be sure to check with local rules and regulations to avoid unpleasant consequences and always drink responsibly. After all, you'll be hitting the road soon after the party is over.

We found our RV was a good base of operations for attending our kids' weekend soccer games.   Not only did it allow us to comfortably transport our family of 8, we had ready access to first aid supplies, snacks, and clean or warmer/cooler clothes as needed.  Many of the recreational soccer venues lacked restrooms so having the RV nearby during a full day of going from game to game was a godsend.

Public shows are often presented by rangers at local parks.  They usually focus on the history, geology, or ecology of the local environment and are usually quite informative, educational, and entertaining.   Its a good way to become familiar with your local resources.

Public service projects can be fun for the whole family as well as productive.  These are good opportunities to teach our children respect for our public lands and demonstrate our appreciation to the land managers.  Service projects help us maintain our camping facilities and prove their value to the government organizations that control them.  Seldom used areas or often abused areas are likely to be eliminated during difficult economic times while frequently used facilities where users take an active interest in preserving and maintaining them have a better chance of survival or even improvement.  Most service projects involve simple tasks, like trash clean up, that the whole family can participate in.  If you have the skills and interest, trail maintenance projects are a lot of fun and often take you into some beautiful and more remote locations than you might ordinarily visit.  Many service projects include some recreational and educational activities where you can have fun and learn more about the local facilities and their history.   Can't find a project to suit you?  Organize your own!  Perhaps your family can volunteer to work with a local park ranger to perform needed maintenance and cleaning.   For larger areas, recruit your camping buddies or extended family to join you.  You'll need to coordinate your plans with the land managers in charge of where you want to work.   You will usually find they are grateful for your assistance and happy to work with you.

Your own camping events can be customized to fit the needs of you and your family.   If you still have kids in school, you'll probably want to plan your outings around holiday weekends or other times the kids are out of school.  Choose locations that are convenient and inexpensive and provide adequate facilities for your chosen activities.   Our family dirt bike outings in southern California eventually grew into a group we called Desert Rats.  We were an unofficial, family-oriented group of recreational riders who shared common riding and camping interests and schedules.   On some occasions only a few families showed up; at other times there were a lot!   One time we counted at least 175 people! The more people you are expecting, the better organized you need to be.   For two or three families we could change our location easily if we wanted to and could choose the trails and times we wanted to ride together.  For larger groups, we needed to ensure we staked out sufficient camping space for our group and usually posted signs along the highway and access roads guiding people to camp.  The signs don't have to be fancy.  A lot of times I see directions scribbled on paper plates with Magic Markers.  I once had some very nice reflective, aluminum signs made for my Desert Rat group.  The first time I used them half of them were stolen!  Since they were unique to our group I kind of think whoever stole them was just being malicious.  You will find it helpful to be consistent.  Whether it is just your own family planning and especially if you are sharing activities with other people, maintaining a recognizable and consistent pattern will usually make things easier. For instance, you might want to use the same camping/staging location for a particular holiday every year so everyone knows where to go.  We also took advantage of electronic communications to send out announcements and maps for events via email and posted activities on our our web site (www.desertrat.org).

Have fun!

RV Cabinets and Closets

RV designers face a difficult task of balancing available space, cost, and usability.  You can't usually do much about the overall floor plan, but you can sometimes make smaller improvements to existing closets and cabinets to improve convenience and usability.  Interior storage areas include closets, drawers, and cabinets.  Exterior storage areas are usually called compartments.

Tent campers don't usually have a lot of cabinets to deal with, but some of the suggestions given in this article might  be applied to a "chuck box", that is sometimes useful to tent campers as a portable kitchen.

How you organize your stuff in your RV cabinets and compartments will make a big difference in usability.   Adding a permanent or temporary extra shelf inside can make retrieving items more convenient, especially in large or deep cabinets.  Plastic bins to corral small items are quite helpful.  Without them small items tend to shift during travel and may come tumbling out in an avalanche when you open the door when you get to camp or simply get lost in a jumble of stuff in the bottom.  Plastic shoeboxes are a convenient size to corall lots of the stuff we squirrel away in our RV cabinets.  You ca also use cardboard boxes buy plastic is more durable and does a better job of containing spills if something gets broken.

Adding lights to dark closets or cabinets is a fairly easy and inexpensive upgrade.  Automatic lights in closets are particularly useful.  They can be hard wired into the vehicle's 12-volt electrical system or battery powered.  They are usually controlled by a plunger type switch that turns the light on when the door is opened and turns it off again when the door is closed.  Closet light kits are sometimes available from RV stores.

Battery powered LED lights are really easy to install in just about any closet or cabinet and do not require any wiring.  They can usually be attached using double-sticky tape so you don't even need a screwdriver.  My preferred choice are "tap lights", which are turned on or off by simply tapping the lens but  versions with normal switches are also available.  The only down side to tap lights is that shifting contents inside the cabinet could turn them on during travel and run down the batteries.  Fortunately, LEDs don't draw a lot of power so if they do get accidentally turned on occasionally it probably won't be much of a problem.  Mounting the lights high in the cabinet minimizes the chances of contents striking them and turning them on accidentally and gives you the best illumination.  You usually get best coverage inside the cabinet by mounting them inside the front of the cabinet.  The little LED lights that look like a light switch are good option for closets and large cabinets.  They are extremely bright and the switch, which is like a normal household light switch isn't as likely to get flipped by shifting contents.

Deep cabinets can benefit from the addition of sliding drawers, bins, or shelves.  Some luxury RVs come with sliding shelves or drawers in outside cabinets.  This is especially useful since these large spaces tend to accumulate a lot of stuff and it can be difficult, frustrating, and time consuming to have to dig through multiple layers of stuff to find what you're looking for.  Another good candidate for sliding shelves are the deep, narrow "pantries" in some units.  Having the space to store canned goods etc is a real boon -- until you have to try to grab that can of chili from the very back of the top shelf!  Adding sliding shelves to these cabinets is fairly easy and not too expensive, unless you opt for fancy self-closing slides and expensive hardwood shelves.  Simply cut a shelf just wide enough to fit through the open door and slightly shorter than the depth of the cabinet.  You will sacrifice about 1" of height for each shelf, but the gain in access and convenience is well worth it.  To make it easy to pull the shelves out, drill 3/4" or 1" hole in the middle at the front of the shelf or cut the shelf short enough to add a handle.  You may be able to find pre-finished shelves that closely match existing wood or stain common pine shelving to match.  You might want to add a not-slip shelf covering to help keep contents from shifting and rattling.  You could also add plastic bins to further contain small items or group like items for convenience and containment to prevent shifting during travel so cans don't fall out the back when you slide the shelf open.

Speaking of plastic bins, they can be used to good advantage in just about any cabinet to group and contain items.  Translucent bins or baskets with holes you can see through will let you glimpse the contents without having to remove them from the cabinets.  Bins can sometimes be stacked which gives you more options for organizing and accessing items.  Instead of having to move a half dozen bottles to get to what is behind them you can just move one bin, get what you need, then put the bin back in place.  Another benefit of using plastic bins is they will often capture spills to they don't spread throughout the cabinet or drip out the door.  I wish I had been using plastic bins when a bottle of green food coloring tipped over and spilled in one of my galley cabinets.  It leaked out and left permanent streaks down the face of  the otherwise pristine and beautiful oak cabinet.  It is also a lot easier to clean sticky spills from a plastic bin than it is to scrub them from a cabinet shelf.  Being able to take the bin out and thoroughly wash it with hot water is much nicer than scraping and scrubbing in the confined space of the cabinet.  In the worst case scenario you can always throw the contaminated bin away and replace it with a sparkling clean new one.  Plastic bins are almost essential for storing extra motor oil and other automotive chemicals in your outside compartments.  The bins make getting things out much easier and they are much easier to clean when something spills.  Confining spills will help prevent contamination of other contents.  It can be really nasty if your fresh water hose gets soaked in spilled motor oil or antifreeze, but storing potential offending liquids in plastic bins can prevent this from happening.  Of course, it is better to keep your water hose in a different place than oil and antifreeze -- if you have enough room to do that.

Cabinet hardware (hinges, latches, and pulls) do eventually wear out or break down or may be damaged by accidents or abuse.  This is especially true of the light weight plastic catches often used in RVs.  They are pretty easy to replace, if you can find an exact replacement.  Finding and exact match for cabinet hardware on older units may be a problem and you may have to adapt new hardware to solve the problem.  Avoid damage in the first place by NOT slamming doors or otherwise abusing the hardware.  Store heavy items only on bottom shelves where they can only slide against the door and not catapult into it.  Using non-slip shelf lining will reduce sliding too.  Take a second or two to make sure there is nothing in the way before closing the door.  Anything that interferes with the door closing completely and smoothly could damage the hinges, latch, or the structure of the door itself.  That includes things that protrude past the shelves or get caught between the door and the frame.  As always, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.  You can probably get replacement hardware for newer units at your local RV store or through the dealer or manufacturer, but you'd have to be really lucky to get an exact match for older units.  For them you may have to scour junkyards for units of near the same vintage. Sometimes you can find matching hardware even in different brand vehicles than yours if they're about the same vintage.  You might even find suitable replacements at your local hardware store or home center.  If you can't match hardware exactly, one option is to replace all the hardware so everything still matches.  Fortunately, hardware isn't terribly expensive.

Normal wear and tear will affect hinges and latches and many problems can be resolved by tightening hinges and adjusting latches. If the screws have pulled out you may be able get them to hold again by inserting a wooden match or toothpick into the hole and reinstalling the screw.  If that doesn't work, sometimes a larger size screw will solve the problem.  You can also get kits to repair screw holes.  They consist of a cone-shaped tool for enlarging the hole and several wooden cones.  You ream out the hole and glue a cone into it, then drill a small pilot hole in the cone and reinstall the screw.  This works pretty well  in solid materials like cabinet and door frames but not so well in paneling.  One way to solve stripped screw problems in paneling is to use molly bolts, that have components containing a threaded nut that expand behind the paneling.  Some have spring-loaded "wings", others are slotted cylinders that collapse and spread out as the bolt is tightened, gripping the paneling from behind.
 
Some extra large cabinets may benefit from adding more shelves.  Make sure you don't create small spaces that will be difficult to get things in and out of.  Shelves may be added permanently or installed so they rest on rails and can be easily removed if you need a taller space.  Wire racks can often be found in houseware departments that can be used for temporary shelves.  I've even seen folks make shelving from styrofoam insulation slabs to hold light weight items like clothing.  Adding a shelf to a very tall cabinet can often double the usable space.

Non-slip shelf lining can help keep items from moving around during travel and reduce rattles.  Keeping things from sliding around as the vehicle moves will help prevent damage to the contents and the cabinets and minimize unwelcome noise.  Be creative in protecting and securing your items.  One woman used colorful socks around glassware to prevent them from constantly banging into each other during travel.  Another cut holes in styrofoam blocks to anchor her fancy glasses.  Non-slip shelf lining can also be cut into smaller pieces to pad cookware to reduce rattles and prevent damage to the Teflon coating on pots and pans.

Some catches and latches aren't up to the task of resisting the forces of contents shifting during travel and pounding the door.   Weak latches will allow stuff to fall out during turns.  You may be able to upgrade the latches to something more substantial.  You can also limit movement of contents inside cabinets using spring-loaded braces like those designed for refrigerators.  Sometimes you can tie adjacent door handles together with mini-bungee cords to keep both cabinets closed.  Another option are the "baby-safe" devices used to prevent little children from opening cabinet doors at home.  Of course proper loading of cabinets to minimize weight and possible shifting is always a good idea.  I have seen some creative owners install "thumb locks" for positive latching.  These require drilling only one hole.  The latch swings up inside the cabinet to secure the drawer or door.  Done right they even look OEM professional.

Top-hinged outside cabinets are more convenient to use if there is a latch to hold the door open while you are accessing the cabinet.  If your RV doesn't have these convenient latches they are fairly cheap and easy to install.  Often they can be screwed to the side of the RV but the preferred way to attach them is using pop rivets.  Take care to properly align the latch before you being drilling.  Some latches may simply catch the edge of cabinet; others are designed to reach over the lip and catch inside the frame of the door.

Some cabinets have gas assisted struts to hold them open.  If these become worn, bent, or damaged they may have to be replaced.  If your RV doesn't have them and you would like to add them, they are usually fairly inexpensive to buy and not too difficult to install.  Sometimes the screws attaching them to the cabinet and/or the door may get loose.  If the hole is stripped so the screw won't tighten, try sticking wooden matchstick or toothpick in the hole with the screw to take up the slack.  Badly stripped holes might be repaired using  special plug kits, available at home centers and hardware stores. They consist of wooden cones and an auger to shape the holes to fit the cone.  Glue the cone into the hole and let it dry completely, then drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw and reinstall the screw.  Note, this will only work if the screws go into wood to hold them.  Some exterior cabinets may have thin aluminum or fiberglass skins.  To repair stripped fasteners in these, replace them with molyscrews.

When loading  your cabinets, try to put light items in the upper cabinets and keep heavy items (like canned goods) in the lower ones.   This has several advantages.  For one, it will be less stressful on your body lifting light items than heavy ones into overhead cabinets.  A second major advantage is light items will be less likely to become  unguided missiles if a door come open during unexpectedly violent maneuvers.  And finally, by avoiding putting too much weight in overhead cabinets you decrease the likelihood that the cabinets will come loose from the wall and or ceiling.  Overloading overhead cabinets often leads to failure of the support systems and then you face a serious and potentially expensive repair.

RV closets sometimes have special closet rods that use proprietary clothes hangers to keep articles from falling off the rod from rough roads or unusually violent maneuvers.  If yours does it can be tedious to switch hanging garments from their normal hangers to the special hangers and back for each trip.  To keep hangers secure on a standard closet rod I've found a clean, dry car wash sponge fits well between the top of the rod and hangers and the ceiling and will hold the hangers in place without adding too much weight or interfering very much with hanging or removing clothes from the closet.  If your RV is short of dresser drawer space, as many are, you might want to add one or two plastic drawers at the bottom of the closet.  Unless it is unusually short, there should be space available underneath the clothes you hang in the closet.

Make it better!