RV Awnings

RV awnings perform a number of functions on today's rigs. The traditional RV awning is the patio awning that provides shade and protection from light rain and creates a patio space alongside your RV.  The patio awning often shades many of the windows too, reducing heat transfer to the interior.   Traditional awnings include patio, window, and door awnings. Window awnings are easy to use and shade individual window so you can leave them open to enjoy a fresh air in your RV, even in light rain. They also keep out the sun to keep the interior cooler, protect the upholstery, and reduce load on the air conditioner. Some window awnings can be pulled down so they cover the entire window, offering additional privacy as well as keeping out unwanted light and heat.   Door awnings extend over the door, mostly to provide protection from rain when you're going in and out.  Most units equipped with slide out rooms have awnings that automatically extend over the top of the slide out to protect it and reduce the chance of moisture or wind leaking into the RV.  Awnings can ONLY be used when the vehicle is parked.  NEVER leave any awning extended while traveling. Even if you don't hit a sign post or something like in the movie "RV", at highway speeds the wind alone will rip the awning off the vehicle, often causing serious damage to the side of the vehicle as well as destroying the awning and its hardware. If you don't believe me, watch the movie "RV" with Robin Williams and see what happens when he drives off in his rented RV with the awning extended. He doesn't get far before the awning is knocked off as he passes a sign post.  A more common problem is an awning coming loose (unrolling) during transit.  A flapping or detaching awning can also create a nasty hazard for other drivers -- one you would be financially responsible for if your awning damages their vehicle or causes an accident.  Even properly stowed awnings sometimes work loose in transit, so in addition to making sure they are locked down before you hit the road, keep an eye on the while you're traveling.  You can also buy special straps and cases to supplement the original anchoring methods for extra protection. The cases, which snap on, also protect the exposed part of the awning fabric from sunlight.

To extend the awning you usually have to release a locking lever on the front end of the awning roller.  You can usually use the same wand to do this that you will use to pull the awning down.  These wands are usually made of solid steel rod about 3' long with a 90° angle about 1" long to engage the latch on one end and a loop for a handle on the other end.  There are also telescoping wands to save space in your RV but mine broke the first time I tried to use it.  The angle pulled right out of the tube.  It may have been a manufacturing defect.  The angle had grooves that could have been gripped if the tube had been compressed around it, but there was no evidence of any attempt to clamp the tube to the angle.  Once you've unlocked the roller, unfasten all the clamps or pins that secure the awning arms.  Sometimes there are locks that hinge around the arms; just swing them out until they allow the inside rafter to pull free.  Sometimes there are spring clamps with pins that go through the arm and the rafter to keep them in place.  Almost always you also need to loosen the knob that tightens the rafter in place once it is extended to allow it to slide open.  When everything has been unlocked, hook the angle end of the wand in the loop in the awning strap.  It should be about in the middle of the awning and barely visible under the awning roll.  If you can't find it, simply pull out on the arms to get the awning to unroll.  Having one person on each end will make this easier, especially on longer awnings, but it isn't absolutely necessary.  If you have to do it solo you might have to go back and forth from end to end several times before you get it all the way open.  Once the awning is fully unrolled, slide the ends of the rafters (which are inside the channel of each arm) up toward the roller as  far as they can go and lock them in place using the knob on the rafter.  Then use the handle on each arm to raise the awning to the desired height.  If you're going to use de-flappers, it is usually easier to install them now before you raise the awning out of reach.  The arms will usually have spring loaded buttons on the inner arm that lock into holes in the outer arm.  There will be several holes so you have quite a bite of flexibility in setting the height of the awning.  Make sure it is high enough to clear the entry door.  Most awnings are made so you can disconnect the bottom of the arms from the side of the RV if you want to use it in "patio" mode.  In this mode the arms are placed so they are perpendicular to the ground under the front corners of the awning and are staked in place.  Some people find the angled arms (as shown in the picture above) get in their way and prefer the patio mode.  Personally, I prefer to leave the arms attached to the RV.  They are very stable and secure and it is quicker and easier to roll the awning up if the wind kicks up or I have to make a quick departure for any reason.  If you have any center rafters or "awnbrella" supports they should be installed now.  "Awnbrella" supports are designed to bow upward to lift the awning fabric, provide a little extra head room, and improve rain run-off.  By tightening and support the fabric they also help control flapping.


To retract your awning and store it for travel,  reverse steps used to extend it.  If the awning is in patio mode (with the bottom end of the arms removed from their locks on the RV and placed on the ground, reattach them to the RV.  Then release the arms and lower the awning roller by unlocking the arms and collapsing them.  Most awnings have a release handle that is also used to lift or lower the arms.  Then release the catches on the rafters, unscrew the knobs, and slide the outside end of the rafters down toward the bottom of the arms so they're roughly parallel to the side of the RV and in place with the arms.  Then release the lock lever on the roller tube.  Keep a hand on the tube so it doesn't get away from you as you make your way to the center.  Use the awning strap to control the speed at which the awning rolls up.  You will need the wand to control the ascent as it rises above your reach.  If there is a wind, it may cause the awning to roll up crooked and you may have to tweak the arms a little to get them to close around the rafters -- or unlock the roller, pull the awning back out, and do it over until you get it straight, having someone help by guiding the arms as they close.  Once the awning is completed rolled up and in place, tighten the knobs on the rafters and secure the awning arms using the hinged locks or spring pin clamps.  There are also after market devices to further secure the awning roller and arms to prevent it from coming loose during transit.  Some secure the arms, some secure the rolled fabric.  Those that secure the arms are easier to use since you don't have to reach up to the roof or get on the roof to reach the rolled awning to install them.  Devices and cases that secure the rolled awning can be difficult to install, but may be worth the effort to protect your expensive awning and give you peace of mind on the road.

A convenient awning accessory is set of awning deflappers.  These clever devices fasten to the horiztonal awning arms on each end of the awning and clamp to the fabric to help keep it taught and reduce flapping in light breezes.  You still want to retract your awning when the wind picks up.  I have tried two different styles.  On clamps securely to the awning arms and the other uses a velcro strap.  They both work pretty well.  The velcro strap version allows you some leverage to pull the awning taught once the clamp is tightened on the fabric.  With the rigid model you have to grab  hold of the awning fabric and pull it into the clamp while you secure it.  This task is easier with two people so if you're planning on setting up your awning by yourself frequently, the one with the velcro strap might be a better choice.

Awnings enhance and extend outdoor living space on our RVs just like patios and porches do on our permanent residences. They provide a place where we can sit and enjoy the view, comfortably out of the sun or even light rain. There are many accessories that can further enhance the experience. On very hot days in the desert I have used a mist system along the awning roller to make the area under the awning cooler and more comfortable. If you connect the mist system to your RV fresh water supply, take care not to use up all your water! I used a separate water supply and pump. There are shades you can use to extend the awning to block late-afternoon sunlight. There are panels you can attach to enclose the awning to create an outdoor room. You can chose from screen panels that partially block the sun and keep out insects but allow you to still see out or solid, privacy panels, that turn the entire area under the awning into an enclosed room. The roller tube on most RV awnings has a slot that accommodates shades and privacy panels and a variety of other accessories, including patio lights and 12-volt fans.

Awning Mats. Awning mats further define your RV "patio" and help keep dirt and debris from being tracked into your coach. There are many beautiful awning mats to choose from to match or compliment just about any RV color scheme. They are usually made of a polypropolene mesh that allows water to pass through the mat instead of puddling. Many people still use simple "grass mats" -- the green, artificial grass style indoor-outdoor carpet available in most hardware stores and home centers. Although the green color doesn't always match the RV color scheme, the lawn-like appearance makes it quite acceptable for most applications. You can also purchase it in any length you want to cover the whole area under your awning. I have used them for years with good success. They are inexpensive and you can hang them on the fence or lay them out on an inclined driveway to hose them off when needed. Be sure to let them dry thoroughly before folding or rolling them up and putting them away.  If you put them away wet you'll encourage mold and mildew that won't be pleasant the next time you want to use them.  Awning mats can usually benefit from being staked down so the wind doesn't mess with them.  When camping on dirt or gravel you can use tent stakes or large (10"-12") nails.  I've seen folks recommend driving the nails through a canning jar lid to get some leverage to remove them and to hold the mat securely.  I prefer to us large flat washers, which are much stronger than the tin lids.  We used to camp on an old paved culdesac the California City area in southern California.  It looked just like the rest of the desert but there was asphalt under the sand.  Tent pegs and manually driven nails wouldn't work there so I used a Hilti 22 caliber nail gun to tack down my awning mat.  2" nails were usually sufficient and fairly easy to remove when it came time to break camp.  I shot the nails through washers so they didn't cut through the mat and could be easily removed.

Another convenient accessory for awnings are side walls. You can choose between screen or solid fabric, depending on whether you want to just keep out the bugs or create a private space. You might adapt ordinary tarps to create a private room, but commercial kits will be cut to size and shape for easier installation, better fit, and will be better looking.  Another side wall alternative is a loose knit shade fabric that is primarily intended to filter sunlight without completely blocking your view.

Sometimes you need an extension on your awning when the sun drops low enough to shine underneath it. Extensions are usually made of  opaque vinyl sheeting that slides into the accessory rail on the awning roller but can also be attached with clamps to the valance on non-roller awnings.  Some full length commercial extenders are made of a mesh fabric that blocks most of the glare but not the view. In a pinch you might use an ordinary tarp to extend your awning. The mesh extenders often serve pretty well to keep the bugs out too. You may need an extension on the front of your awning or on one or both sides, depending on how your rig is oriented toward the sun and what time of day it is.  Sometimes you can just let the extenders hang down but mostly you'll want to secure the bottom edge with bungee cords to keep it from flapping and to hold it at the angle you want it.  Mesh extenders allow some air flow and block most of the sun' heat while solid extenders will block air flow while completely protecting you from the sun.  Choose what will meet your individual needs.

The most convenient awnings are permanently attached to the RV, together with the arms necessary to support them. You can even purchase electrically operated awnings that can be extended or retracted at the touch of a button. Upscale models even have wind and rain sensors that retract the awning automatically when the wind exceeds a pre-set speed or it starts to rain. When using any permanently attached awning, be sure to release the travel locks before trying to extend it and make sure they are securely latched before driving. Many awnings have spring lock pins that push through the arms for a positive lock while traveling that have to be removed to extend the awning. It is a good idea to keep a little tension on the awning as you roll it up to ensure it rolls tightly when putting it away. A loosely rolled awning can be caught by the wind as you're driving and the results can be disasterous!. Not only is it likely to tear the awning fabric, it can whip the awning arms loose, ruining the arms and causing serious damage to your vehicle or even other vehicles on the road.

Permanently installed awnings can usually be used with the bottom of the arms still attached to the vehicle at an angle or in "patio" mode, where the bottom of the arms are staked down to the ground, allowing the arms to stand erect. Leaving the arms attached to the vehicle means you don't have to bother with staking them down to the ground and it makes it quicker and easier to extend and retract the awning.  You also avoid having to deal with securing the foot of the arms to muddy ground.  This is especially appealing if the wind kicks up and you need to retract the awning in a hurry. A disadvantage to this option is that the arms are angled from the roller at the outer edge of the awning back to where they mount near the bottom of the RV side wall. This creates an obstacle that some people find very annoying. If you're one of them, you can detach the bottom of the arms from the side of the RV and stake them down directly below the roller tube so they are vertical. There are also awning straps that can are designed to help secure the awning in higher winds. They pass over the top of the awning and are secured to the ground by cork-screw shaped metal anchors. In my personal opinion, if the wind gets strong enough to need an awning strap, its time to put the awning away. There are also "deflappers", devices that attach to the rafters and clamp to the fabric to reduce the how much the fabric flaps in moderate breezes. I've tried several styles of these and they all seem to work pretty well. Some are rigid and clamp tightly to the rafters, some use velcro straps around the rafters. They all clamp to the fabric to help keep it tight and reduce flapping.  You many want to check out the devices used by your fellow campers to decide which is best for you. The rigid style takes up more storage space, but seems to me to be a little more secure. Permanently installed RV awnings are usually covered by the comprehensive option on your vehicle policy.  Since large awnings can be expensive to replace if they get damaged, it is worth looking into what it costs to include comprehensive coverage and what it covers.  You don't have to pull a dumb stunt like Robin Williams did in the movie "RV" where he drove off with the awning extended.  Close tolerances at camp sites or where you park your RV at home may result in them getting knocked off.  If they aren't securely locked -- or if the locking mechanism is worn or sticky -- they may unroll during highway travel and get damaged.  If your awning should unroll on the highway, pull over where it is safe and attempt to roll it backup as tightly as possible and secure it so it won't come loose again.  Tying or taping the arms along with taping the awning roll itself are some ways to secure it.

Awning maintenance. Awnings normally required little maintenance other than keeping them clean. However, it is a good idea to check all the hardware at least once a year. Spring cleaning is a good to schedule this. Make sure all the screws are tight. That includes those attaching the rail behind the awning as well as all the main brackets. If you are seeing leaks or streaks down the side of your RV under the awning, the screws attaching the rail may be loose and/or the sealant is damaged. For smooth operation spray a little silicone lubricant on the locking mechanisms. Rub a little candle wax or paraffin on sliding surfaces. You might also dry using dry teflon lubricant. Anything that leaves a sticky residue should be avoided since it would trap dirt and damage the surfaces. Be sure to follow your manufacturer's recommendations for lubricants and service and adjustments.  Awning fabric can benefit from using special cleaners that condition the fabric and provide extra UV protection.  If your awning gets faded but the integrity of the fabric is still in tact you can paint them with vinyl paint to renew -- or change -- the appearance.  You will probably have to mask off the portions you don't want to paint.  The easiest way I've found is to disconnect the arms so I can let the awning hang all the way down the side of the RV, giving me access to a nice, flat, vertical surface to paint.  Go easy and use several light coats to avoid creating runs.

A key factor to keeping an awning looking and good and lasting a long time is to keep it clean and never allow it to be stored wet for any length of time. There are special awning cleaners and conditioners that can safely be used to clean your awning and restore its appearance. A good conditioner will also add UV protection and help prevent the fabric from becoming faded and brittle. If you put an awning away wet and leave it for more than a day or two before opening it up and drying it, the next time you go to use it, it is likely to have the appearance and aroma of a duck blind in the swamp -- not usually a good thing!

A note of caution: awning rollers are spring loaded. Always have a secure grip on the pull strap or awning arms when extending or retracting the awning. If you allow the awning to retract too quickly it can damage the arms, tear the fabric, or pinch your fingers as the arms close! If your awning doesn't roll up tightly enough you may need to adjust the tension.  This can be tricky and, if you're not careful, can result in broken fingers if you fail to control the tool you are using to wind the awning.  I like to use a pair of Channelock style slip joint pliers to grip the end of the roller once the arms have been removed.  You only need to remove them on one end.  Leave the other arm in place to secure the other end of the awning.  Take is slow and easy, and don't wind it too tight or you'll have trouble extending the awning and may run the risk of breaking the spring!

Bag awnings. A less expensive alternative to permanently mounted awnings are bag awnings. These roll up like a tent and have to be slid into the awning rail on the top of the RV when you want to use them. You will not normally see these on motorhomes or large trailers, but they are frequently used on tent trailers, truck campers, and pop-up trailers where they can be installed while the roof line is within reach. They attach to an awning rail along the top of the RV.  To install them on anything but a pop up trailer, you'll probably need a ladder to reach the awning rail.  The outer edge is held up by tent poles and they need to be held in place by ropes and stakes to pull the fabric taut. The ropes and stakes sometimes present a tripping hazard as you approach the RV so it is good to tie brightly colored ribbons or pennants to the ropes so you and your guests and see them. I've seen enterprising RVers rig a way to attach the poles to the bottom of the RV wall and hold the awning in place using ratchet straps to avoid the ropes and stakes, but in this configuration you again have an angle obstacle at each end of your awning that is annoying to some people so it is a trade-off.

Lights. If you are attached to shore power, running the generator, or have a sufficient battery/inverter configuration you can run 120-volt electric patio light strings along your awning. You will find a wide selection of styles available just about anyplace RV supplies are sold or you can even use lights designed for home patios. One of my favorites looks like a string of miniature Coleman lanterns.  You can buy awning hangers that slide into the accessory slot in the roller. Some have hooks, some have clamps like suspenders. Either one can be used to secure light strings or shades. Some folks use ID badge clips from Walmart to atach stuff to their awning valance.   Always make sure the lights hang far enough away from any fabric to avoid scorching it. If you are using a Coleman-style gas lantern, be especially careful to hang it low and away from any side panels and away from the side of your RV. These little beasties generate a LOT of heat. A friend of mine used to comfortably heat his Class B motorhome using only his Coleman lantern. It often got hot enough inside to have to open windows to moderate the temperature, even when it was quite cool outside.  These days you can buy various LED lights that will run on your 12 volt system without putting too much drain on the batteries.  A really fun version is a 7-color LED rope light that includes a remote control so you can select different colors, speeds, and patterns of operation from the comfort of your camp chair, but they are still kind of pricey.

Cooking under the awning. I try to avoid cooking under the awning. Rising smoke and cooking vapors collect on the underside of the awning and can be difficult to remove. They also leave residual odors and stains that are hard to get rid of and tend to get worse over time. If your stove gets too hot or your fire too high it may melt or scorch the awning fabric. If the weather is bad and you really need -- or want -- to cook under your awning, position the stove near one end (preferably the downwind end) to minimize the area that may be affected by rising smoke and vapors so any breeze will carry the smoke away instead of under your awning. Keep the flame as low as you can for what you're doing, don't light the stove until you are ready to use it, then turn it off as soon as you're done. I do not recommend ever building a campfire under your awning. Gas powered stoves are cleaner than charcoal burning BBQs and Hibachis and don't require the long lead time and it is easier to control the heat. Rising smoke and cooking odors can still damage awning fabrics, so always exercise caution.  That being said, I have seen tarps stretched over an entire campsite just leaving a hole in the middle over the fire pit.  If done right it works and is generally pretty save, as long as the tarps are high enough above the fire.  Consider the traditional teepees of the American Indians.  They routinely used fire inside to heat them in cold weather.  The steep sides and tall peak with an opening at they very top served as a good chimney to carry the smoke up and away. 

If you must put your awning away wet, which you probably will when it rains, open it up, clean it, and let it dry out at the first opportunity and be sure to dry it out before you return your unit to storage. Even in colder times of the year, sunlight on the rolled awning can raise temperatures inside to produce an environment that is very good for molds and fungus. If you put your awning away wet and leave it, the next time you use it, it may look more like a Ducks Unlimited camo paint job than the colorful striped awning you purchased to match your RV! And I'm sure you will find the odor quite, uh, shall we say, unusual and usually quite unpleasant. Of course, if you like earthy tones and odors and don't mind significantly reducing the usable life of your awning, be my guest! Put it away wet and enjoy the science experiment that develops inside of it! Just don't expect your spouse or your neighbors in the campground to share your appreciation for the unusual look and smell of your awning.

E-Z Ups and Dining flys. In addition to bag awnings, there are standalone awnings that can be used adjacent to your RV or over your picnic table. Dining flys are inexpensive and light weight but they are not very sturdy. They typically have thin aluminum poles -- one at each corner and a taller one in the middle. They have to be secured with ropes and stakes, usually two at each corner. Typical sizes are 12'x12', 8'x 16', and 16'x 16'. Their low price (often under $20) and light weight make them an attractive alternative to more expensive RV awings. Bag awnings typically run a couple hundred bucks for a good one. Permanently attached awnings can cost $500 - $1200 depending on size and features -- more if they are electrically operated. E-Z ups are stand alone awnings in which the fabric is usually permanently attached to the frames and they fold up like a scissor lift. They are typically much sturdier than dining flys but are also much bulkier and heavier to transport. They are, as the name implies, easy to set up and do not require ropes and stakes unless they are being used in windy conditions. They come in a variety of colors and fabrics, including mesh and solid materials depending on whether you want partial shade or full shade or rain protection. You may want to use an awning mat under stand alone awnings just as you would under a permanently mounted awning. The mat helps define the living space and creates a more sanitary and attractive "floor" than dirt, gravel, pavement, or grass.

Umbrellas. Beach umbrellas can be useful when camping. They come in a variety of sizes, ranging from personal models about 3' in diameter to patio or beach models that are typically 6-13 feet across.  Large patio umbrellas can shade a whole picnic table and will required a sturdy base to hold them up. Smaller ones that clamp to your camp chairs provide personal shade. Ordinary rain umbrellas may be handy for both sun and rain. For extra coverage, choose a golf umbrella.  A big, floppy, wide-brimmed hat can serve as your personal awning or umbrella and leaves your hands free for activities.
                                                           

Sometimes a "shady deal" is just what you need!

Holding Tank Health

Self-contained RVs are able to mimic the conveniences of home , making use of on board systems to provide power, water, and sanitation. While problems with power or water can be a nuisance and inconvenience, problems with the sanitation system can wreak havoc with your environment and even your health, on top of being REALLY unpleasant!

Power, in electrical form is provided by batteries and generators (and sometimes solar panels) and requires minimal maintenance, but that little bit of maintenance is critical. Make sure all battery and generator connections are clean and tight and service the generator regularly per the manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule. Most generators are equipped with a low oil shutoff to prevent serious damage from low lubrication.  Even so, you should check the oil before every outing and daily in camp and top it off if necessary.  Heating fuel for the furnace, hot water heater, and even the refrigerator normally comes from propane. The propane system normally only requires filling and checking for leaks. Occasionally you may have to replace a faulty regulator.

Fresh water comes from a fresh water tank and is delivered to fixtures throughout the RV by a 12-volt water pump. Fresh water tanks require minimal maintenance. Unless they have become contaminated from a polluted water source, all they normally require is an annual flushing with a mild chlorine bleach solution (about 1 cup per 60 gallons of water) and rinsing with water and baking soda. Other than that, about all you need to do is fill your tank with clean water before you leave home. Always use a potable water hoses to avoid getting a plastic taste and smell in your fresh water supply when filling your tank. Use this same type hose when filling fresh water tanks and when connecting to city water. Use an in-line pressure regulator between the hose and the faucet to prevent high city water pressure from blowing out the hose or damaging your RV plumbing when connecting your RV to city water. If your water pump fails during a trip you can probably get water for cooking, drinking, and basic sanitation by draining some out the spigot normally used to drain your fresh water tank for winterization.  If you run out of water, you're going to have to go get some.

Sanitation facilities are made possible by the presence of holding tanks to contain the waste products from sinks, bathtubs, showers, and toilets. Most RVs have two holding tanks: one for "gray" water, from sinks, bathtubs, and showers, and a second "black" water tank for toilet waste. Holding tanks are often a mystery to newcomers and the very thought of having to deal with them is repulsive to many people until they get used to it (and sometimes even after that!). The gray water tank, if regularly dumped and thoroughly flushed, usually requires no additional chemicals or cleaning unless you dump excessive solid food wastes or other unpleasant debris down the drain. The black water tank, on the other hand, requires fresh chemicals after each dumping and sometimes between dumpings, especially in hot weather. Some commonly used chemicals which are usually considered to be most effective, contain formaldehyde which some environmentally sensitive people find objectionable, especially if you dump into a residential septic tank, but there are "green" alternatives that rely on natural enzymes to breakdown waste and control odors. Regardless of which one you choose, take care to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Add the correct amount of chemicals for the size of your holding tank. Using too little results in foul odors and incomplete breakdown of solid wastes and subsequent problems dumping and flushing the holding tank. Using too much is a waste of costly chemicals and can even have a negative affect on the performance of the chemicals in the tank. Black water chemicals are usually added through the RV toilet. Dump the appropriate amount of chemicals (powder or liquid) into the toilet, then run enough water to fill the narrow well in the bottom of the toilet before flushing to drop the mixture into the holding tank. Read the directions on the container for the chemicals. Most experts will tell you to add water until there is about 1 1/2" in the bottom of the tank. This provides a medium to disolve the chemicals to begin their reaction and be able to breakdown solid wastes so they can be successfully flushed when the holding tanks are dumped. It also provides some water in the bottom of the tank to prevent solids from sticking and piling up under the toilet.  Leaving the black water tank dry is an invitation for disaster. In some RVs, the shower drains into the black water tank in order to provide additional water to facilitate proper chemical action and dumping. If you have this configuration you will want to be especially careful to avoid over-filling the black water tank, which could backup raw sewage into your shower! That could literally be a really crappy problem.  Those who do a lot of dry camping often forgo adding water after flushing, but this is an invitation to disaster.  Without sufficient water in the tank solids will stick to the bottom and will pile up below the toilet, sometimes enough to clog the toilet.  Tank chemicals won't be able to do their job which is controlling odors and breaking down the solids.  It may be really difficult to get good results the next time the tank is dumped.  If you do have a problem getting everything to flush out cleanly or if  the level sensors aren't working right, try dumping a bag of ice cubes into the tank through the toilet, fill the thank about 1/4 full, and drive around a bit so the ice can scour the inside of the tank. The cubes will loosen deposits on all the surfaces inside the tank.  Once it melts you can flush the tank as usual and this time everything should come out clean.

Overfilling of waste water holding tanks is an all too common problem, especially among new users.   Pretty much, if you ever do it, you won't do it again!  Overfilled holding tanks create backup in the drains and the toilet and can make the inside of your RV so foul smelling that it will be uninhabitable.  Most RVs with holding tanks have a monitor system that at least gives you some idea of how full the tanks are getting.  They usually display E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and F.  Check the monitor often during each trip and compare usage to date to the number of days remaining.  If you hit 1/2 half way through a trip, you're probably doing OK but if you hit half on the first day of a multiple day trip, you're going to be in trouble before the trip is over You'll either have to severely restrict additional use or find someplace to dump the tanks.  You might make a little extra room in your gray water tanks by draining off a bucket or two to put out the fire each night.  DO NOT try this with the black water tank! Gray water usually doesn't contain enough contaminants to cause a problem but raw sewage dumped on a hot fire will create a really foul smell.

Foul odors. Besides the obvious size limitations (holding tanks always seem to fill up way too fast!), the most common complaint about holding tanks are foul odors. Foul odors are usually the result of improper maintenance -- incomplete dumping and flushing or the lack of sufficient chemicals. While traveling, odors from roof vents may be drawn into the RV or the partial vacuum created by open windows may draw odors up through drain pipes. Odors may also escape through an incompletely closed toilet valve. There are fancy 360 degree roof vents designed to disperse vent odors. Ordinary vents are simply a loosely fitting cap on top of the vent pipe from the holding tank. If you experience holding tank odors while on the road, close all the windows. That will usually eliminate odors from being sucked in through the drain pipes. If the odor seems especially strong inside a cabinet, like under the kitchen sink, the problem may be a faulty vacuum breaker. These are used to prevent all the water from being siphoned out of the P-traps on the drains. The water left in the P-trap normally prevents odors from wafting back up out of the holding tanks through the sink and shower drains. A faulty vacuum breaker may be either stuck open, allowing odors to escape or stuck shut, allowing water to be siphoned from the P-traps subsequently allowing odors to come up through the drain. If the odor is coming from the drain, you may be able to temporarily solve the problem and make your trip more pleasant by dumping about a cup of water down the drain to re-fill the P-trap. If the odor is strongest inside a cabinet, try to locate the vacuum breaker and tap it gently to get it unstuck. The housing is made of plastic, so don't bang on it too hard or you'll may damage the plumbing and create problems far worse than a bad smell. If you notice exceptionally foul odors coming from the toilet you probably have an inadequate amount of chemicals in the black water tank or the holding tank is full! Perhaps you didn't add enough chemicals after the last dumping and flushing -- or maybe you even forgot to add them at all. You often will need extra chemicals between trips to the dump station during heavy use in hot weather. If the tank is not full, try adding chemicals to the black water tank. If, when you look down into the tank through the toilet, you do not see any liquid, add water so the chemicals can begin to breakdown solid wastes. Rather than waste precious fresh water, put a bucket under the gray water dump valve and drain off some of that to transfer to the black water tank (dump it down the toilet). As previously mentioned, some RVs connect the shower to the black water tank to deliver extra fluid directly into the tank to aid breakdown and dumping and reduce filling of the gray water tank. With that in mind, you definitely want to avoid over-filling your black water tank since it can back up into the shower, creating an extremely nasty mess! Keep an eye on the level of your holding tanks and dump them BEFORE they backup and cause some really unpleasant situations inside your RV. Most RVs have gauges that show the holding tank levels. If you're doesn't or the gauges are not working (an all too common problem), try to monitor and limit your fresh water usage. If sewage splashes back up when you flush the toilet, your black water tank is getting dangerously full. The residue from even a gray water backup creates an ideal environment for molds to grow, creating additional bad smells and staining. So avoid backups and, if you do get one, make sure you clean up any overflow as quickly and thoroughly as possible. A solution of 10% ordinary household bleach and 90% water is an effective disinfectant on most hard surfaces, but be sure to test it on an obscure spot to be sure it won't cause permanent damage when using it on carpets, upholstery, curtains, paneling, or wallpaper.

Dumping and flushing holding tanks. The most important part of maintaining your holding tanks is also one of the simplest, but many new RVers are repulsed and intimidated by it. That is dumping and flushing the tanks. Anyone who has seen the movie "RV" with Robin Williams can appreciate their trepidations. The scene where Robin's character tries to dump the holding tanks of rented RV is an exaggerated and spectacular demonstration of what NOT to do and how unpleasant the consequences can be. By the way, it is highly unlikely you will ever encounter a fountain of waste on the scale seen in the movie, but improper procedures can easily result in shoes and pant legs soaked in sewage.  On the other hand, if done correctly, dumping the tanks is a fairly simple and sanitary process. Normal RV holding tanks are dumped via a 3" hose using only gravity to transfer the sewage from the holding tanks to the dump station.  As a starting point, you need the right dump hoses and fittings (in good condition) -- something the poor novice in the movie was sadly lacking (along with a total dearth of knowledge about the rented RV). Check your sewer dump hose before you leave home to make sure 1) you have one, 2) it is in good condition, and 3) is has all the necessary fittings to connect it to your dump valves and to the dump station inlet. Extend the hose so you know how long it is. That will let you know how close you must get to the dump station. If there are worn spots on the hose or, if when you run water through it, you see leaks, get a new one! The last thing you want to deal with is raw sewage spilling onto the ground or onto you! If it spills on the ground there is a good chance that sooner or later you will walk in it and track it into your RV.  The over-the-head sewage geyser in the movie is lot going to happen, but the pressure of sewage flowing through the dump hose could create nasty sprays through pinhole leaks in your dump hose. Spray could easily reach as high as the level of the sewage still in the tank, meaning it could usually go about waist high.  Make sure the hose is securely attached to the fitting that connects to the dump valves and connected properly to the dump valves. More than one poor RVer has gotten a nasty surprise when he opened the dump valves and the weight and force of the sewage charging into the hose separated it from the fitting. And, since by necessity, you must be in close proximity to the connector to open the dump valve, you are likely to be the unwilling and unhappy recipient of a large portion of the spillage. Yccch! If you have two holding tanks connected to a single dump connection, there should be separate valves, one each for the gray water and black water tanks. Open the black water valve first and leave the gray water valve closed until you have dumped and flushed the black water tank. If you have separate connections, dump the black water tank first, then dump the gray water tank. By always dumping the black water tank first the gray water will rinse most of the raw sewage from the black water tank out of the dump connection on your RV and the hose before you put it away. How can you tell which is which? The black water tank should always have 3" dump valve. The gray water might have a 1 1/2" valve. The black water tank is usually directly below the toilet. After dumping each tank, flush the tank with clear water before closing the dump valve. This is where having a holding tank flush system comes in handy. With one of those, you simply connect a garden hose to the flush system fitting on the side of the RV and turn on the water. Nozzles inside the tank rinse the tank. Lacking a flush system, you can flush the black water tank by sticking a special wand attached to a garden hose down through the toilet or just running water down the toilet with the flush pedal depressed. A wand works better than just a hose because it directs a concentrated spray around inside the tank to rinse the walls. Try to avoid aiming the wand so that sewage is blown back up through the toilet! You won't like the results. There are also sewer hose fittings that have back-flush features. This consists of a female hose fitting upstream from the sewer hose (near the connection to the RV) that lets you connect a garden hose to the fitting. The water is directed in a forceful spray back up inside the holding tank. Of all these options, the flush system is the cleanest and easiest to use and does the best job of rinsing the inside of your holding tanks. Regardless of the method you use to rinse the thanks, rinse each one until the water coming out the end of the sewer hose is clear. Dirty water from the gray water tank will be, well, gray or cloudy. Dirty water from the black water tank may be blue or green or brown, depending on the type and amount (or lack) of chemicals in the tank. Again, dump and rinse the black water tank first, then the gray water tank.That way the gray water flushes the nasty sewage from the black water tank out of your dump hose and deep into the drain.   Flush each tank when the contents have been dumped and before moving to another tank. This avoids contaminating your gray water tank with raw sewage or chemicals. If your RV does not have a flush system, one can usually be added. I've added them to several RVs myself. It is a fairly straight forward task, easily within the skills of a confident do-it-yourselfer if you have the right tools and sufficient access to the holding tanks. You need to drill a hole in the tank to install the flush nozzle and run a hose to a connector for a garden hose. The hole should be in about the middle of the tank, top to bottom and end to end. It is most effective if installed on the long side of a rectangular tank.  Not only will you need a place to install the nozzles, you will need room for the tools (drill, screwdrivers) to do the job.  The installation kit will include detailed instructions for proper installation. Pay close attention to the instructions to avoid unpleasant leaks. Do NOT use the same hose to flush your holding tanks and rinse your dump hose as you use to fill your fresh water tank. Yeah, its a nuisance to carry around two hose, but you run the risk of contaminating your fresh water hose if it is used to flush holding tanks and sewer hoses. Professional installation of the flush system is available at most RV dealers for a nominal charge. You should always flush your holding tanks at the end of your journey, just before you put your unit back into storage, even if it has been a short trip with minimal use. Of course, you many need to dump the tanks multiple times during extended outings as well. Dumping after a trip is a good time for a thorough cleaning. The sloshing around during transit will have loosened solid waste deposits so they can be be flushed out at the dump station. You sure don't want to leave sewage in your tanks while your unit is not being used or the next time you enter it you may feel like you need a gas mask -- and the odors will cling to carpets and upholstery for a very long time!  Residual solids left in the tank may dry and get too hard and too stuck to the tank to be flushed out if you don't get them out at the end of your trip.

If done correctly, your hands should never come in contact with any sewage, but it is still a VERY good idea to always wear disposable latex or nitrile gloves whenever you handle your sewer hose -- getting it out, checking it, using it, rinsing it, and putting it away. I leave my gloves on until after I've added the chemicals to the black water tank to avoid getting the chemicals on my hands too. Some people use re-usable household rubber gloves, but I prefer disposable gloves so the dirty gloves don't contaminate anything in my RV. If you use re-usable gloves, wash and sanitize them thoroughly before you put them away so you don't contaminate your hands handling the gloves next time.  Wash your hands thoroughly after you remove your gloves.  Keep a bottle of hand sanitizer handy when dumping your holding tanks.  You 'll feel better knowing your hands aren't contaminated.

What does a sewer hose look like?   Sewer hoses are 3" in diameter and should have a fitting on one end that attaches to the dump connection on the RV.  The hoses are usually blue, gray, or brown.  They are compressible so they don't take up extra space in storage.  They have a steel spring inside that keeps the shape and allows them to be compressed.  They look kind of like a Slinky that's been dipped in plastic.  They may or may not have a second fitting that goes into the dump station.  Anyone who does a lot of full hook-up camping will probably have fittings that accommodate various sized openings a the camp sites.  Folks who mostly dry camp often just stuff the end of the sewer hose itself into the dump station drain.  Some dump stations have a heavy metal lid that can be positioned to help hold the hose in place.  If you encounter one that doesn't look for a rock or brick to put on the hose -- or have someone keep one foot on it so it doesn't pop out when the initial surge of sewage comes through and doesn't work its way loose from vibration during dumping.  Obviously it is better to subject some inanimate object to possible spills than it would be to use a foot.  You can rinse spill off a rock pretty easily, but cleaning crap off your shoes, socks, and feet would be a rather unpleasant task and you may up just throwing away your socks and Reboks if you get a black water spill on them.

Some RVs have a macerator system that grinds up sewage and pumps it out through a 1" hose instead of the big 3" dump hose, but mostly you'll see 3"dump hoses for disposing of gray and black water.  The macerator systems have several advantages.  One, they grind up waste into small particles so it can be flushed out through a 1" line that can be run into a toilet instead of a dump station.  Just be very careful to keep the hose in the toilet and not let the toilet overflow!  Another advantage is they can pump waste uphill and over some distances while standard dumping procedures rely totally on gravity.  If you're using a macerator system it will probably take longer to dump your tanks through the little 1" hose than through the big 3" gravity dump hose.

So where is that darned sewer hose in the first place? There are a number of places it may be stored. Some units have 4" square rear bumpers where the hose is stored.  Just remove the end cap to pull out the hose.  Some have special compartments which are essentially a small door covering the end of a piece of pipe that extends under the RV or into a cabinet into which the hose is shoved for storage. In some units, the sewer hose is stored loose in the cabinet with the dump valves. In some, especially older units, there may not be a specific location designed to store the sewer hose and you may find it in just about any cabinet -- hopefully any previous owners or users have had the good sense to put it in an exterior cabinet and not under the kitchen sink or the bed! If your unit is lacking a convenient place to store the sewer hose, you may be able to add one using a length of large PVC or ABS pipe. Cement a cap on the far end and install a removable cap (threaded is best) on the end where you will access the hose. Attach the pipe to the bottom of your RV  or to the rear bumper using plumbers tape. On some units it may be more convenient to mount it on the rear bumper or between the bumper and the coach body.  In an ideal installation, the open end of the tube would be placed behind an appropriately sized door in the side of the RV near the dump station.  For the most convenience, the storage should be located near the dump valves. Once you have rinsed your sewer hose and put it away, rinse the concrete pad around the dump station to flush any spilled materials down into the drain. Some dump stations have a garden hose available for your use, but just in case, it is a good idea to carry your own. This is particularly true if you have a flush system, because many times, the male fitting will have been cut off the end of the dump station hose to prevent stupid people from connecting it to their city water inlets or using it to fill their water tanks and contaminating their water supply. I carry a green garden hose for use at the dump station so it never gets confused with the white, potable water hose I use to connect city water or to fill my fresh water tank. You don't want to be using a hose for fresh water that you previously shoved down inside a sewer hose to rinse it. The very thought is almost enough to make most people want to puke! And if just thinking about it doesn't do it, drinking contaminated water just may. I sure don't plan try it to find out!

When you are finished dumping, make sure your dump valves are closed tightly and locked in place and that the travel cap is securely re-installed on the end of the dump valve connector. You can be cited if your dump valves leak onto the roadway. Besides that, the nasty stuff splashing back up onto your rig may create a really unpleasant mess to clean up when you get home.  Dump valves have a lock-nut that screws down at the base of the handle to keep them from vibrating loose during transit. Thoroughly rinse your sewer hose and let the water drain out into the dump station before you put it away.  Make sure you've put away your personal garden hose and re-connected the one that belongs to the dump station. Check to see if you've left anything behind. Then, once you've added the chemicals to the black water tank, remove and discard your disposable gloves and wash your hands. You're done! If you've done it right, it wasn't all that bad a task. If you screwed up, chances are you will never make the same mistake again since the consequences are generally very unpleasant and embarrassing -- but it will make a good campfire story some time. Just don't share it at meal time!

Holding tanks leaks are, fortunately, fairly infrequent, but they do happen and can be very unpleasant and embarrassing. Leaks may occur do to impact damage, freezing, stress, vibration, or just plain age. The most frequent source of leaks is loose connections and they can usually be easily fixed by tightening the clamps or coating the joints with the appropriate sealant.  Other leaks where the tank or plumbing has been damaged will require patching or replacing the damaged components. Most RV sewer lines and holding tanks are black ABS plastic. ABS can be chemically welded to make repairs. Milky gray tanks are LDPE and are impervious to most solvents and may require thermal welding or replacement if they are damaged. See my separate post on Holding Tank Repairs for more information.  I once saw the holding tanks on a trailer fall out on the highway.  The reflected heat from the hot pavement on a very hot day had caused them to soften and sag enough under the weight of the waste inside to sag and collapse out of the frame rails that held them in place.  The subsequent repair included adding cross members beneath the tanks to prevent a re-occurrence.

Black water tanks may require extra chemicals during especially hot weather to control odors.  High temperatures may accelerate the development of odors and interfere with the effectiveness of holding tank treatments.  Even gray water tanks my get unusually smelly when its hot.  Gray water tanks usually don't need chemicals for odor control but you may want to keep some on hand if odors become a problem.  You can use a small amount of the same chemicals you use for your black water tank in the gray water tank, but there are also special gray water tank treatments that do the job well without the risk of over-treating and perhaps introducing a high chemical odor into the tank.

Holding tanks, drains, and dump valves are susceptible to freezing in cold weather.  The holding tanks on many RVs are underneath the body where they are openly exposed to cold temperatures.  If you go camping in freezing weather with an RV that is thus equipped you will need heating pads to keep the holding tanks from freezing.  Heat tape may be need to prevent drain lines from freezing too, depending on the configuration of the plumbing.  If you have enclosed holding tanks and valves you may only need to keep the cabinet warm enough to prevent freezing.  A 100 watt incandescent light bulb (now difficult to find) or a "reptile" light used to heat the habitat of cold blooded pets might provide enough heat to prevent freezing.  BTW, you probably won't encounter any excess odor problems during cold weather unless you over-heat the tanks.

Keep On Flushing!

On Board /In Camp Medicine Cabinet

Why do you need an on board medicine cabinet or in camp medicine kit?  Well, just about any time you're camping, RVing, or OHVing,  you're going to be away from home for at least a day or two.  In addition, you will be involved in activities that stress your mind and your body more or in different ways than your normal daily routine.   Illnesses and injuries can occur any time just like they do at home and are probably more likely doing things you don't normally do.  When something happens,  you will want be able to deal effectively with it to minimize the impact of the situation, prevent additional injuries or spread of infection, and make your patient (even if it's yourself!) more comfortable.  Having a few well chosen first aid items and other forms of treatment will often mean the difference between inconvenience and disaster!  A small cut or blister, if properly taken care of right away doesn't  have to spoil an entire outing.  But letting it get infected may have much longer lasting and more serious consequences.  That being said, what should you bring along?  Here are some ideas to help you out.

 What should you stock in the medicine cabinet of your RV or in your camping first aid kit? The answer to that question depends on the specific medical needs for you and members or your family and traveling companions. Here are some basic guidelines to keep in mind. I am not a doctor and cannot legally recommend medications, but I will share with you what works for me and what I and others have found helpful on camping trips. Please consult your family physician if you have any questions to confirm what you should prepare for yourself and your family.

First of all, you don't want too little or too much.   If you have too little you won't be able to effectively deal with minor injuries or illnesses during an outing.  If you have too much, you'll be wasting money and space and probably have trouble finding what you want when you need it.  How much you bring will probably depend on how much space you have for it, in your RV or or camp kit.  You can probably always find room for a bottle of aspirin but you sure don't need a whole case of it!  If tent camping, will you always be near your vehicle or do you plan to hike some distance that you'll have to carry stuff?  What you stick in your pocket, fanny pack, or back pack, is going to be a lot less than you can stock in an RV medicine cabinet or a large base camp first aid kit.  What you and your family needs will most likely be different than what I and my family brings along.  With that in mind, here are some guidelines based my personal experience.  I usually include some splints or material to make them in my RV first aid kit but, of course, don't carry those with me on the trail.  Chances are if I really needed splints out on the trail I could find some sticks or something to make do until we could get back to camp.

Prescription medications. If you or any member of your group require prescription medications, you will need to bring those along on RV outings and camping trips. Keep them in a correctly labeled prescription bottle. If you don't want to bring along the whole bottle, hang onto an old bottle the next time you get a refill so you can use that in your RV or camp kit. Just tossing a few pain killers in a plastic baggy or an unlabeled bottle or a box renders them suspect and potentially dangerous. There is a good reason most RX bottles are that funny brown color. It helps preserve the medication inside.  Sunlight can damage many medications or diminish their effectiveness.  Improper storage can cause them to deteriorate and lose effectiveness. On top of that, you don't want someone accidentally taking the wrong medication. Furthermore, if law enforcement should find certain drugs, you might face charges of transporting illegal drugs if they're not properly prescribed and labeled for you or someone in your group. You may want to put your prescriptions where they aren't casually seen by visitors.  Some prescriptions have a high black market value for addicts.  You will want to have them where you can get them easily when you need them, but otherwise where they'll normally be out of sight to avoid them becoming a target for would be thieves.  I keep mine tucked back into a top corner of the medicine cabinet in my RV where they aren't visible yet I can get them quickly when I need them.

Over The Counter Medications.  Since I am not a licensed medical practitioner, I can't give advise on specific OTC medications you should use.  There are way too many choices for over-the-counter medications for me to make a lot of detailed recommendations but there are some categories I have found handy. Once again, what you bring along depends on your needs and preferences. Just because something is sold over the counter doesn't mean it is safe and appropriate for everyone.  As a starting point bring along whatever you routinely use at home. Check with your doctor if you have any questions and to make sure any OTC products you use are compatible with any prescription medications you may be taking. And don't forget to mention vitamins or supplements as there can be undesirable interactions with them as well. If you or anyone in your group suffers from digestive problems, antacids should probably be on your list. Those in chewable tablet form take up little space an aren't as much trouble to clean up as liquids if they get spilled. However, if you are used to using "the pink stuff" at home, by all means, bring a bottle along. Just secure it where it won't fall out of the cabinet and break or spill.  Choose a plastic instead of glass bottle if you can.  I also like Pepsin gum for an upset tummy, but it is kind of hard to find these days.   For serious diarrhea control, I carry some antidiarrheal tablets.  Strange water and sometimes foods you're not used to will cause diarrhea and that can quickly spoil your whole trip.  If you get migraines, be sure to bring your favorite, doctor-approved migraine remedy. Since we all can get occasional headaches or suffer other aches and pains from performing actions while camping that are not part of our normal daily routine, OTC pain killers are pretty much a universal part of my on-board medical kit and my camp first aid kit. Since people in my family have different preferences, I carry aspirin, acetaminophen, ibuprofen, and naproxin. Personally,  I prefer aspirin because it has anti-inflammatory and immune system enhancing properties as well as being a pain killer and I've never experienced any negative side effects, but aspirin isn't for everyone. You shouldn't give it to children and shouldn't take it if you have an ulcer. BTW, the active ingredient in aspirin has been around and used for pain for thousands of years.  Historically it was extracted from willow bark, but is also found in poplar and aspen bark.  A good think to know if you get a headache out on the trail and forgot to bring any aspirin with you.  I found through experimentation that chewing about six inches of bark from a 316" diameter twig seems to work about as well as two aspirin.

Because of the sporadic use typical of most RV or camp first aid kits, medications are likely to expire long before you use them up. That is why I buy the less expensive generic versions of OTC formulas to keep in my RV and replace them when they become outdated.  Be aware, however, that a U.S. Army study determined that most medications are still good for more than 15 years after their expiration dates.  So don't be afraid to use them if they're out of date and don't rush to dispose of them the minute they expire.  When you DO dispose of them, do it correctly:  take them to a pharmacy, especially prescription meds.  Putting them in the trash or even flushing them down a toilet can have serious environmental consequences.  Would I use an expired medication in an emergency?  The answer is an unequivocal "YES", unless it was obviously contaminated or deteriorated.

Expired medications and supplies. Since most of us only are able to use our RVs periodically, it is easy to loose track of how old the medications we have on board are. It is highly recommended that you check the expiration dates before each trip. Expired medications may have lost some if not all of their effectiveness and could be useless at best. As mentioned above, at least one study by the US military I read claims most medications are good for at least 15 years beyond their expiration dates so don't be TOO worried if something is a few days or even a few years, out of date. Some compounds can deteriorate over time and can become dangerous, especially if they've become contaminated, which can occur during handling or improper storage. While our RVs are in storage they are subject to more extreme temperatures than we normally experience inside our homes, and both high and low temperatures can have negative affects on some medicines. Some medications, like aspirin, give off a recognizable odor when they go bad. If you get a whiff of vinegar smell when you open your aspirin bottle, it is time to toss it out and start fresh.  But if that's all you have, its better than nothing. While you're at it, check how old other medical supplies, such as bandaids and adhesive tape are. If you've ever tried using these products when they get old you will know that they either, no longer stick at all, or the adhesive has become tacky and slippery and gets all over everything and still doesn't hold in place the way it should. No need to waste precious space in your medicine cabinets on out-dated stuff that you will have to throw away just when you need it! If you check and replace expired supplies regularly you can avoid having to spend a ton of money all at once when you discover everything is out of date.   Make sure the packaging for bandages has not been compromised. New bandages are sterile and safe to use. Opened packages allow dust, air pollution, and germs to contaminate the bandages. In an emergency, go ahead and use "suspect" bandages if that's all you have, but check your supply frequently and keep things clean and safe. Plastic zip-lock bags provide extra protection around the flimsy paper wrapping around soft bandages. Plastic storage containers are even better, if you have room for them.  Plastic bags are flexible and can often be stuffed into other wise unused space.  Just take care not to tear the bag.

Antiseptics. Antiseptics are an important part of any first aid kit and an board medicine cabinet. These are solutions such as alcohol and hydrogen peroxide that kill germs and prevent infection in wounds. Iodine, Mecurichrome, and merthiolate are also very effective and commonly used antiseptics, although some people have adverse reactions to these powerful agents. They also sting -- a lot! -- even more than alcohol or hydrogen peroxide. Antibacterial ointments such as Micitracin and Bacitracin are more gentle yet effective. Another old-fashioned antiseptic I like is something called liquid collodial silver. It has the antispectic properties of silver, doesn't sting as much as many products, and is reported to speed healing.  I try to carry something called Granulex.  It is usually used by veterinaries to treat wounds on animals, but I've found it speeds heeling of my own minor wounds..   I like to have some type of first aid spray available too. It is gentle and easy to use, especially on young children and on burns. It usually functions both as antiseptic and liquid bandage.  You may also find it easier to self-administer since it can be done with one hand and you can spray it on body parts you can't reach to apply liquids or ointments. Recent first aid procedures advise to flush wounds with clean water and avoid stinging antiseptics like alcohol and hydrogen peroxide which can kill healthy cells along with germs. While strong antiseptics ARE effective at killing germs, they are also effective at killing healthy skins cells and may delay healing as well as causing pain when applied. However, if there is a high likelihood of bacterial contamination (e.g. the wound  or cuase of it is really dirty) you probably should use antiseptic to prevent infection.  As with all medical supplies, make sure your antiseptics are not out dated and keep all medications out of the reach of children! Expired antiseptics may have lost their potency.  In an emergency you can make an antiseptic using water purification tablets. Dissolve 5-6 tables in a couple tablespoons of water. That should create a strong enough concentration to kill germs on a small wound.

Specialty bandages. Every try keeping an ordinary Bandaid on a wounded knuckle? If so you'll appreciate specialized knuckle bandages. "Butterfly" bandages are used in lieu of or in addition to stitches to close small wounds. Liquid bandages, like New Skin are sometimes easier to use than conventional plastic strip bandages and still seal the wound against contamination. I've used super glue in lieu of stitches to hold a small wound together. The medical version is called Dermabond and is manufactured and packaged under stringent sterile control but it is expensive and not readily available to the general public. True Dermabond is less likely to cause skin irritation than common Super Glue, but for emergencies, super glue might be used. I have a tiny scar on one little finger where I got it smashed between the hitch and a bumper while hooking up a trailer. The wound wrapped 3/4 of the way around my finger. Fortunately, it didn't sever any critical muscles or tendons, just flesh. We held it together and applied super glue after thoroughly rinsing the wound. It healed completely with only a hair-line scar. I wouldn't recommend it as an alternative for stitches by a medical professional, especially for large wounds,  facial wounds or others where cosmetics are important, but in an emergency, it could be helpful. Dermabond was used rather extensively on the battle field during the Vietnam war.  Be careful when using Super Glue.  It bonds instantly and permanently to skin, so make sure you get the wound lined up the first time and you only get it where you want it to go.   Also, make sure you have thoroughly cleaned the wound before closing it.  You don't want to seal germs inside!  They'll be very happy there, but  you won't.

Expiration dates. Not all OTC medications and supplies come with expiration dates. If you purchase items without expiration dates, mark the purchase date on the label or lid in ink so you will at least have some idea of how old products in your inventory are. You may be able to get shelf-life information for products on-line or by contacting the manufacturer. You may even find it useful to mark purchase dates on non-medical items in your RV inventory. Things such as pancake mix and cooking oils can and will go bad over time. Not only may they taste bad, they can, at the least, make you sick. I have even heard of people even dying from the mold that sometimes develops in out dated pancake mix, because of an allergy to the specific mold. But why take chances on getting sick? A new box of pancake mix costs only a few dollars. Enjoy the fresh taste and avoid worry about contamination. And if you check and update your inventory regularly, your wallet won't take a big hit all at once when you're getting ready for your next trip and find EVERYTHING is out of date! Try to rotate your RV food stock -- use it up at home and put in fresh supplies for traveling. You can sometimes tell when products are going bad. Aspirin will get a strong vinegar smell. Liquids may become cloudy, separate, or develop clumps. Creamy lotions may separate or become thin and runny. Products with any of these symptoms should be discarded and replaced as soon as possible. But once again, I would probably use lumpy lotion if that was all I had rather then toss it out and go without.

Miscellaneous. What else might be good to have in your on board medicine cabinet? Think about the things you use regularly at home: toothbrushes, toothpaste, dental floss, tweezers, Q-tips, cotton balls, fingernail clippers, toenail clippers, emery boards, razors, aftershave, antiperspirant/deodorants, foot powder, hand and face lotion, sunscreen, shampoo, muscle and joint ointments. Superglue is similar to the Dermabond used close wounds and I keep a couple of small tubes in all my first aid kits.  I like to keep a couple of "Bite Sticks" to treat insect bites. By the way, the active ingredient in them is ammonia, so you just use a bit of household ammonia on bites or to refill dried out Sticks. One of the key features of an RV is having the comforts of home, but it is up to you to stock it appropriately to be able to take full advantage of the opportunities it provides. You may find toting along a box or bag of this stuff adds to your comfort when tent camping too. Over time you will learn what things you need -- and don't need -- to bring along. After each trip, review your inventory. What didn't you have that you wished you did? What did someone else in camp have that you wish you had?  Add that before your next trip. What have you been packing around for months or even years that you've never used? These items are prime candidates to be taken out to make room for more important things, unless they are critical emergency supplies. Emergency supplies should be maintained and kept up to date even if you don't use them often.

Wilderness medicine. In an emergency you may be able to supplement your on-board medical supplies with natural materials. Google "wilderness medicine" to learn more about resources that may be available in the areas you plan to frequent. Some examples of natural substitutes for common OTC preparations include willow bark (also poplar and aspen bark). The inner bark contains salicin, a close relative of the key ingredient in aspirin. In fact, aspirin is a synthetic version of salicin.  You can chew the inner bark or seep it in hot water to make tea. Native Americans used willow bark for hundreds of years for the ailments we use aspirin for and there is evidence of it being used as far back as 400 BC.  Aspen and poplar can also be used, but from what I've read, willow is more effective. I found that chewing about 6" of bark from a 3/16" diameter willow twig worked about as well as 2 regular aspirin.  Do not use take anything containing salicin if you are allergic to aspirin. An emergency treatment for diarrhea can be concocted using charcoal from your campfire. Grind it into a powder and mix about 1 tablespoonful in a cup of water and drink it. It tastes terrible! But, if you can manage to get it down, the charcoal absorbs the toxins in your digestive tract that are causing the diarrhea. Spearmint is said to reduce the build up of stomach gas. Peppermint contains menthol, which has antiseptic and analgesic properties. There are many other medicinal plants that may be indigenous to the areas you go camping. Aloe is often found in the American southwest and is excellent for treating burns, including sunburn.  It is worth investing a little time on the Internet to learn more about those plants and minerals available where you'll be going that might be useful to you and your family. You need to know what grows where you'll be going. Knowing a lot about the cornucopia of medicinal plants in the tropical jungle will do you little good in a pine forest or sagebrush desert. Mallow, a common weed found almost everywhere, is edible and has a number of medical uses, from treating stomach ailments to soothing scrapes and rashes.  Here is what it looks like:
                                                   

You probably recognize it from your lawn or backyard.

I like to keep a pack of Beeman's Pepsin gum handy for treating an upset stomach. It is a lot more pleasant than chalky tablets. It is only manufactured in limited quantities today so you may have to go online and buy it from a vintage candy web site. But if you come across some in a store, snap up a few packs. Keep it in a tightly sealed plastic container to retain freshness as long as possible.  If it does dry out and get hard, just break it into bite sized pieces and hold them in your mouth until they soften enough from warmth and moisture so you can chew them.

                                                                      

Holding down the cost. I've found many of the supplies I need for my on board medicine cabinet at my local "dollar" store. Many of the OTC preparations, generic "bandaids", and antiseptics can usually be found there. Sometimes I've found gauze pads, gauze rolls, and adhesive tape.  Also many sundries and cleaning supplies. Low cost helps you keep your supplies up to date. By the way, "Band Aid" is a brand name licensed by Johnson and Johnson for adhesive bandage strips although in popular use it is improperly applied to similar products of any brand name. A bandaid type bandage is both a dressing and a bandage. The dressing is the pad and the adhesive strip is the bandage that holds it in place.  For the most comfort, choose bandages with no-stick pads.

Stay healthy!