Boat Insurance

Boat insurance is usually required if you keep your boat in a marina and, like auto insurance or rv insurance, provides liability protection in case of an accident, and may protect your investment in your boat.  Liability insurance protects you and the marina operator and your fellow boaters if there is an accident in the marina or on the water.  Requiring liability insurance also protects you by making sure other boaters have coverage should they cause an accident that damages your boat or injures you.   So the insurance requirement is both understandable and reasonable.  Including comprehensive or "full coverage" protects you by paying for the damage to your boat if  you are at fault in an accident or the boat is damaged by storms, uninsured boaters, etc.  and is usually required by the lender if your boat is financed.   If someone else is at fault when your boat is damaged they should be liable for repairing your boat.

One thing I noticed when I purchased our boat insurance was it asked for a "declared value" for the boat.   The declared value will be the most the insurance company will pay out if your boat is totaled.  You may want to verify the value of your boat from time to time.  I used what I had seen as asking prices for similar boats to determine the value of my boat, but that was prior to investing a considerable amount of time and money in fully restoring both the boat and the trailer.  Once that was done I should have increased the "declared value".   A couple of years later a problem with the trailer dumped our 24' sailboat onto the pavement on the way to the lake, destroying both the mast and the swing keel.  Since it is a vintage boat, replacement parts are somewhat difficult to come by and the estimated cost of repairs quickly exceeded the "declared value" of the policy.   Re-evaluating the value at the time of annual renewal to account for the reconditioning might have given us a larger margin for repairs or replacement.   The real market value of a boat is likely to change over time.  Usually, like most other personal assets, it will probably depreciate.  A lower declared value might lower your annual premiums, but not always.  The default for declared value when I insured my boat was $10,000.  I reduced the declared value, hoping to lower my premium, but the premium remained the same and at that point the web page wouldn't let me change the declared value back to the default!    If, by chance, your boat increases in value due to improvements or market demand, you will want to increase the declared value to ensure adequate coverage to repair or replace it if something does happen to it.  If you can't do it on the web, call an insurance agent.

Boat  insurance may also include an allowance for personal property.  This allowance covers anything you might have in the boat -- clothing, bedding, tools, special equipment etc.  It would behoove you to keep a record of the personal property together with receipts or other proof of cost in case it is lost or damaged in an accident.  The electronic navigation equipment and other modern electronic amenities are often quite pricey, so having receipts showing the value is worth the hassle if you ever need to file a claim.

The amount you have to pay for boat insurance will depend on several factors, including but not limited to the type and value of your boat and where it is normally kept along with the coverage you select.  You probably won't find as many carriers who offer boat insurance as there are that offer automobile insurance, but you should still be able to shop around to get the best value.  Always look at the coverage as well as the premiums.  Getting the lowest price does not always mean you are getting the best value.

On the water towing is an option often offered along with your insurance.  Before paying for on the water towing, make sure such services are available where you use your boat.  You will probably find them at most ocean harbors but they are less frequently found on inland lakes.  No sense paying extra for a service you can never use!

Making a claim is about the same as making a claim on your auto insurance.  Call the phone number on your insurance card.  You will need your policy number, the year, make, and model of your boat, the date, time, and location of the accident, a detailed description of the accident, and the names and phone numbers of any witnesses.  You may also be asked for a police or law enforcement case number so the incident should be immediately reported to the proper authorities.  In many cases making a claim can increase your future premiums so you don't want to file a claim for trivial damage, even if you have a zero or low deductible.  If your boat is financed the lender will want to make sure it is properly repaired.

Insurance is good to have if something unexpected happens.  But, of course, it is always better to avoid accidents in the first place.  Keep all of your equipment in good repair and inspect it before each use.  Avoid operating your boat or towing it when under the influence of alcohol, drugs, or medication or when you are unusually tired or stressed.  Always be alert to conditions around you and plan ahead for what you will do if something threatening occurs.  Our accident was caused by failure of one of the bunk boards the boat rested on on the trailer.  They were only two years old and I had upgraded them from the original 2x4's to pressure treated 2x6's for an extra margin of safety.  Why one of them failed is still unknown, as they were made of treated lumber and were largely protected from weather since installation.  Perhaps a defect in the integrity of the tree they were cut from I guess.  Maybe a closer inspection of the boards when I purchased them might have prevented the accident -- if the flaw was visible.

Ensure that you are properly insured!

COVID-19 and camping

The dangers created by COVID-19 are real and the precautions being set forth are necessary to minimize the spread and protect us.  The threat level and risk assessments and recommendations seem to be changing all the time but some things remain fairly constant.  Hand washing and social distancing are the two primary things you can to do protect yourself and those around  you.  Plus wearing a mask to control dispersion of an infecting virus through coughs, sneezes, or just breathing.  To a large exotent, my mask protects you and your mask protects me, but wearing a mask also provides you some protection against breathing airborne viruses.  That being said, what about camping in this perilous time? As a volunteer firefighter and EMR I receive regular updates on what is going on with COVID-19 and thought I might share some insights with my fellow RVers and OHVers.

Many developed camprounds have been closed by government "lockdowns", but in most cases, at least dispersed camping is still possible.  Dispersed camping is generally more accessible in the Western Untied States where there are many areas managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).  There is also some dispersed camping available in state and national forests.  However, for your own safety and the safety of everyone around you, you should still maintain appropriate social distancing.  Unfortunately, that puts some major restrictions on one of the  most iconic camping activities:  the campfire.  Traditionally we like to gather close around the campfire to enjoy the flames and one another's company.  You can still do this in relative safety IF you maintain proper social distancing.  The "official" spacing is a minimum of 6' but some health professionals suggest it should be 10'.  Also wearing a face mask outside of your own living space is strongly advised.  Yes, face masks can be hard to come by during this crisis, but even wearing a bandana to control the spread of moisture will help.  Some "experts" even recommend doubling up and wearing two masks!  As if one wasn't uncomforable enough!

Camping, hiking, and other traditional outdoor activities can provide a welcome respite from the "cabin fever" that comes with being confined to our homes.  Outdoor activities (except for contact sports!) generally allow for appropriate social distancing and provide opportunities to get some fresh air and much needed exercise.

Will wearing a face mask keep me from getting COVID-19?  Sadly, the answer is "NO".  But it can help reduce the chances.  Your skin does a pretty good job of protecting  you from COVID-19, but it can get in and infect you through your eyes, nose, or mouth.  That is why face masks and googles are important. Face masks are essential for reducing the spread of the virus, more by restricting contaminated vapors from being passed along to those around the wearer, than by protecting the wearer.  So, if your  mask slips off in public, don't panic -- unless someone without a mask coughs or sneeze on you!  Think of it this way:  My Mask protects You; Your Mask protects Me.  Any way you look at it, wearing masks should lessen the spread of the disease.

What's with the hand washing?  Proper hand washing can remove the virus from your hands, minimizing the chance of getting it in your mouth.  On average, people touch their faces about 16 times a minute!  Every touch with a COVID-19 contaminated hand, could introduce infection.  Did you know that viruses are not actually alive?  They are lumps of protein wrapped in fat.  They can't reproduce on their own.  They must get into a living cell where they modify its DNA to produce copies of themselves.  Proper hand washing removes the fat layer and makes the protein vulnerable.  Not long before this COVID-19 outbreak I read that hand washing was the single most significant factor in medical safety EVER!  Hand washing has saved more lives and reduced the spread of disease more than anything else in medical science!

A couple of vaccines have recently been granted limited approval by the FDA.  They have NOT bee fully vetted yet but are reported to have been successfully tested on more than 15,000 people.  Availability is limited for a while  Initially vaccines are being made available to first responders, front line medical people, and nursing homes.  Hopefully, as general distribution becomes possible, we will get some relief from the lockdowns and other restrictions.  Should you trust the new vaccines?  Well, as volunteer firefighters my wife and I were vaccinated in January 2021 without any unpleasant side affects and my ER Director nephew definitely approves of them.

The bottom line:  keep on camping!  Just do it safely.

Boondocking Myths for Campers and RVers

There are several fairly popular myths floating around about boondocking, many of whichare designed to deter campers from trying it and most of which are flat out FALSE!  Here are a few of the most common mis-understandings.

Myth Number 1:  Boondocking means your are "out in the boonies".  Boondocking simply means the same as "dry camping" or camping without hookups.  While perhaps the best boondocking opportunities let you escape most of the hassles of modern urban living, you don't have to be hundreds of miles from nowhere to enjoy a boondocking experience.  Some people even consider stopping overnight in a  Walmart parking lot or freeway rest stop to be boondocking.  Obviously  you don't get the best camping experience in locations like that but there are many opportunities for dry camping in state, county, and local parks near many communities.  If you are new to boondocking, you should be able to find a spot that is still within, say, 10 miles of shopping should you  run out of some critical supplies.  That being said, boondocking opportunties are more accessible west of the Mississippi River and get fewer and further between the closer you get to the east coast.  Bureau of Land Management (BLM)  lands in the Western states are prime places for boondocking. Dispersed camping, as it is also called, is also available in many areas administered by the U.S. Forest Service.   While many people go boondocking to get away from towns and noise and traffic, you don't have to go WAY out into never-never land.  Did you know that most boondocking sites are within 30 minutes of a town?

Myth Number 2:  Boondocking is dangerous.  The truth is boondocking is no more dangerous than any other outdoor activity.  Some people are scared that they will be robbed or worse if they are out camping by themselves but statistics prove otherwise.   For one thing, there are usually a lot fewer people around to impose risks than there are in most urban or suburban environments.   In addition, if you are concerned about personal safety, there are things you can do to minimize the risk.   One is to camp near other RVers.  That is particularly appealing if they are folks you know and share interests with.  There is safety in numbers.  You might have to choose whether added safety or escaping civilization is your top priority.  If you are still worried, you might consider acquiring personal protection skills and resources.  If you chose to arm yourself, be sure you understand the laws where ever you go and learn the safe and proper and legal use of any weapons you select.  We boondocked on BLM lands in the Mojave Desert for many years without any problems with theft or assault.  We were almost but not always, among a fairly large group of RVs.  After of day of dirt biking we often enjoyed a little skeet shooting, which in addition to being fun and offering a rare chance to practice marksmanship let any would-be intruders know they would be facing an armed camp!  Some people are afraid of being attacked by wild animals.  For the most part the animals are far more afraid of us that we are of them and usually don't present a problem.  We often enjoyed being serenaded by coyotes when camping the Mojave Desert and never had or heard of anyone having any problems with them.  That being said, it is prudent to avoid attracting wild animals by leaving food out and be prepared to take appropriate defensive measures if any animals do intrude into your camp site.   Be sure to keep any eye on your pets so they don't fall prey to wild animals.

Myth Number 3:  There isn't anything to do!  Boy, is this one off the mark!   There are lots and lots of things to do when boondocking. Of course your view might be screwed by your personal idea of what consititues "something to do".  If you lean toward clubbing or other activities with high social interaction, you might find the options somewhat sparse.  However,  depending on where you go you will find numerous places to hike and explore.  Some state parks even offer guided tours that are educational and lot of fun.  An evening around the campfire is always a lot of fun.  Often getting away from urban areas gets you out of light pollution that ruins star gazing, so boondocking usually a wonderful chance to view the night skies.   Many urban  dwellers  have NEVER seen the Milky Way and will be astonished to see how many stars there are!  In addition,with modern RV facilities and even the electronics available to tent campers, you can enjoy almost all the electronic toys you play with at home.   Of course, if you are truly seeking an "off grid" experience you can choose a really remote destination where even cell coverage is scarce or non-existent, but there are many places to boondock that are well served if that is important to you.

Myth Number 4:  Boondocking is expensive.  Many places you can go boondocking are actually free, especially in the Western United States where you can camp free on BLM lands.  You are in total control of what you chose to invest in equipment and supplies.  I know people who go camping in the desert with just a small  tent, sleeping bags, and an ice chest.  It doesn't get much simpler than that.  But if you want more creature comforts, that is an option.   With fairly low cost, quiet, efficient and reliable generators, even tent campers can have electricity any where they go.  If you are camping  in an RV you can usually enjoy, quite literally, all the comforts of home.

Myth Number 5:  I might get attacked by wild animals.  While venturing out into more and more remote areas might increase your chances of encountering wildlife, being attacked by a wild animal while boondocking is unlikely.  You are likely to see smaller animals, like squirrels, chipmunks and even raccooons, but larger predators seldom approach camp sites.  For the most part, truly wild animals are more scared of you than you are of them.  Boondocking might actually minimize your chances of an unpleasant encounter since animals near popular developed campgrounds sometimes lose their fear and become bolder than their less domesticated relatives in the wild.  We almost always heard coyotes howling in the Mojave Desert at night but never saw any ear our camp.

Myth Number 6:  There is no Internet when boondocking.  There might be some truth to this one, depending on where you go.  Basically, anyplace you have cell phone coverage you can get Internet access using the hot spot on your cell phone.  I have been pleasantly surprised by cell phone coverage out in the remote parts of the Mojave Desert.  I'm sure the flatness of the desert helps us to have wider cell phone coverage than you might found in mountainous regions.

Myth Number 7:  Boondocking is dirty.  Well, I guess it could be if you spend a lot of time playing in the dirt, but, for the most part, it isn't any dirtier than camping in campgrounds, many of which retain dirt or gravel roads and parking areas to preserve the natural setting as much as possible.  RVers, with their on board showers can easily clean up (if they don't use up all their water!).  Even tent campers have many options for cleaning up at the end of the the day. ranging from cat bathes to full, hot-water showers using either a portable hot water heater or a simple sun-shower.

For more details on Boondocking Myths, see the Youtube video by Driving and Vibing.  They go over 9 boondocking  myths in detail.   The video runs about 12 and a half minutes and is entertaining as well as educational.

Get away!

Off Season Camping

Off season camping can  have a lot of advantages, especially if  you loath crowds and enjoy solitude!  However, there are reasons it is the "off season" and they are usually centered around climate.  The human body is most comfortable around 72° F and as temperatures go much above or below that favored target, things go beyond uncomfortable to intolerable to dangerous or even fatal!  Therefore, we tend to avoid circumstances where we have to contend with excessive heat or cold.  The off season in most temperate climates will be winter, when temperatures drop near or below freezing, but in some places, constant high temperatures make summer the off season.  Off season for some venues is defined by availability of popular activities, such as wildlife viewing or scheduled sporting events. Off season usually discourages many people so often you will find reduced crowds and greater personal access to many popular venues -- if you are willing and able to adjust to the off season climate!  Sometimes there are even lower off-season prices for extra savings.

Camping in the off season, regardless of whether it is defined by low or  high temperatures, often means adapting to the seasonal changes.  Some adaptations may allow you to continue to frequent popular spots, some may require you to change your destinations.  When living in Southern California, we spent almost every 3-day weekend dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.  However, when mid-summer temperatures hovered near or above 100° F we switched to riding in higher mountain areas where it was cooler.  On one trip, the temperatures on the desert floor were too hot (well over 100° F) to even sleep comfortably in our RV at 5:00 in the morning.   A few hours later, having ascended about 5,000 feet into the mountains, it was cool enough that we needed winter jackets when unloading our dirt bikes and setting up camp!

Hot weather camping.  Sometimes we braved the heat and adapted our facilities and activities to make things more acceptable.  On at least one summer outing we brought along an extra 55 gallon drum of water and a plastic wading pool.  Our original intent was to provide a place for the kids to play and cool off but we soon found it also appealed to even the burliest dirt bikers in camp!  The only downside was that is also attracted every sweat bee within miles!  Another useful adaptation was installing a mist system under the patio awning on our RV.  To avoid burning out our RV pump or emptying our drinking water system I set up a separate water tank and pump for the mist system.  It was truly amazing what a difference that mist made!  You might have enjoyed a similar system while standing in long lines at popular amusement parks in hot weather.  Other hot weather preparations including making sure the air conditioners, both automotive and roof top units, were in top shape and working properly.  And don't forget fans!  Fans don't cool the air but by moving air and speeding evaporation of perspiration they make you feel cooler.  Powered RV vents and 12-volt fans can make hot vehicles and tents much more comfortable and battery powered portable fans can be used anywhere -- in tents, hammocks, or just sitting in the shade.   And don't ignore manual, hand-held fans.  Even a paper plate can provide a surprising amount of breeze to speed evaporation and help cool you down.   For added cooling put some water in spray bottle and give yourself a refreshing spritz when you get too hot.  Adjustments to activities included scheduling our dirt bike rides for earlier in the mornings or later in the afternoons to avoid the hottest part of the day, which we spent under the misters, sipping cool drinks or eating sno-cones.

Cold weather camping.  In addition to  personal comfort in cold weather you may have to prevent freezing of water and other supplies.  Some off season opportunities occur before freezing weather sets in, giving you a chance to explore some popular destinations with minimal adaptations in clothing and heating your domicile.  Early fall outings will often find some camp ground facilities already closed for the winter so you may have to plan on "dry camping" even in a developed campground.  If the weather isn't too cold simply dressing warmer and adding a blanket to your bedding or turning up the heat in your RV may be all the adjustment needed.  However, if you are dealing with temperatures below freezing you will have to take measures to prevent freezing of water systems and provisions.  There are a few RV campgrounds that stay open all winter.  If you go to one of these, be prepared to wrap your fresh water supply hose AND the campground faucet with heat tape.  If  you don't, your hose and quite possibly the faucet will freeze and you will be responsible for the cost of the repairs to the faucet.  When you aren't using water, disconnect the hose.  Leaving it connected keeps the frost-free faucets from draining and they can freeze.  That can be a costly mistake, which most campground owners will pass along to you if you are at fault.  You must also protect dump valves and any other exposed plumbing on an RV against freezing.  It is often suggested using a skirt around the bottom of an RV to reduce  heat loss, minimize heating fuel usage, and help protect plumbing.  Foam panels will provide the best insulation to preserve heat but even a light weight tarp to block the breeze beneath the unit will help.  If you are tent camping  you will need to prevent  your provisions as well as your body from freezing.  Sometimes simply storing provisions in a camp cooler in your tent will be enough.  If that doesn't work you may have to seek safe storage in a heated environment such as a cabin or RV.  A tent  heater can add a lot to your comfort, safety, and convenience, but be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully to avoid problems.  Some potential problems are obvious, such as fire potential if the heater is too close to the tent to other flammable materials.  Another serious concern is ventilation.  Even an indoor rated catalytic propane heater will consume oxygen and, without adequate ventilation, you will suffocate.  Avoid cooking inside a tent. There are too may risks associated with this task to even consider it.  If necessary, find a somewhat sheltered place outside to do your cooking.   I have seen  people cook safely in tents, but it requires careful regulation of the heat source, keeping flammable materials away from the heat source, ensuring adequate ventilation, and always being alert and careful with fuel and cooking implements.  It is best not to even try it, especially in a small tent.

As the temperatures drop below freezing you will need to adjust your clothing and your activities.  An RV or even a good tent base camp can be a good base of operations for winter sports -- skiing, sledding, skating, ice fishing, snowmobiling, etc.  After some time out in the cold you will welcome having a comfortable place to get in out of the weather and warm up.  Some OHVs lend themselves to winter use:  ATVs and side-by-sides are by nature more stable on snowy terrain than dirt bikes, especially if they are equipped with 4WD.  Dirt bikes will be more stable if the tires have spikes added to improved traction and grip.  Not matter what  you are doing you will want to dress in warm layers so you can adjust to changing temperatures, weather, and levels of activity.  While it  may seem counterintuitive, avoid getting TOO warm and sweating in cold weather.  It can cause hypothermia!

In some fairly rare instances there may be an off season that isn't defined by weather, but such situations are few and far between.  Some activities may be based on things like animal migrations foliage displays, or sporting events and if you aren't there at the right time, you will miss out.  However, if  you are simply seeking a pleasant, natural experience,  you may be able to take advantage of the time when fewer people will be there to simply get away from it all and relax.  The biggest adjustment you will have to make in cases like that is to adjust your expectations.   Don't camp out on the beach at the wrong time of the year and still expect good viewing of whales, birds, or other wildlife.

Getting off is fun!

Are You Ever Too Old to RV or OHV or Camp?

 

Are you ever to old to RV or OHV or Camp?  I sure hope not!

This is a question that comes up more and more as we get older.  However, the calendar or your birth date  is not going to tell you when you have to quit camping in your RV or riding your OHV.  One of our favorite OHV quotes is:  "You don't stop riding because you get old; you get old because you stop riding."   I am 77 and my lovely wife is 74 and we still love to camp, sail, and to ride our dirt bikes.

My Mom and Dad didn't even buy their RV until Dad was approaching retirement age.  For many years my Mom's Mom traveled with them too until she was well into her late 80's at least.  I have a dirt biking friend who continues to organize and lead week long rides in Mexico even though he is in his late 70's.  My wife and I logged 50 off road miles on our dirt bikes on my 70th birthday.  I was already 73 when we got our sailboat!  I am now 77, going well on 78, and still camping, sailing and riding dirt bikes whenever we get the chance.  You don't stop riding (or sailing for camping) because you get old; you get old because you stop riding (or sailing or camping)!

How can you tell when its time to quit?  Unless acquire some dangerous health condition, there is really no reason why you can't keep camping and riding as long as you feel up to it.  I know many older folks who have had their driving privileges suspended but I also know plenty who keep going and going.  My own Mother, now 97, voluntarily quit driving only a few years ago when she felt her eye sight and reaction time made her feel uncomfortable behind the wheel.  I applaud her willingness to recognize her limitations.  I've seen too many elderly drivers who have had -- or should  have had -- their driving privileges revoked!  I was very impressed a few years ago with my then 85 year old step dad's driving.  Unlike many elderly drivers, he maintained a youthful level of awareness and never fell into the over-cautious (slow) pattern many older drivers adopt.  On the other hand, we have seen some family members loose their driver's licenses relatively early due to failing eye sight or symptoms of Alzheimer's Disease.  They weren't happy about it, but we agreed with the DMV, especially when we had to go find the family car one had abandoned and walked home (or been brought home by police) more than once.

My Grandfather always said "A man will rust out quicker than he'll wear out."   I definitely believe that is true.  I have seen too many men retire and just plop down in front of the TV with nothing to occupy their minds or exercise their bodies except the remote control.  In many cases instead of pushing the buttons on the remote control they were soon pushing up daisies!  Publications for retired folks are promoting volunteer service as a way of improving retirement.  Volunteer service gives people something productive and rewarding to do and often includes more physical activity than they would otherwise pursue on their own.  Camping, boating, and OHVing are activities that also fulfill many of the same needs.   Even in our 70's my  wife and I are active volunteer firefighters and EMRs in our rural community as well as enjoying outdoor recreational opportunities whenever we can.

All this being said, we need to behave responsibly as we grow older.  We need to measure our strength and stamina and adjust our schedules and expectations accordingly.  We need to remember that our bones are more brittle and that injuries will take longer to heal than when we were young.  That may mean being a little less aggressive in our off road pursuits or turning in a little earlier and/or sleeping in a little later when camping.  If we are taking prescription medications, we must remember to bring them along and take them during our outings -- and to consider any possible side effects or restrictions associated with them.  Certainly it would be irresponsible to insist on continuing to drive our RVs, boats, and OHVs if we have physical limitations that could impair our safety or put others at risk.  Some conditions of particular concern are those that affect vision, hearing, and reaction time.  My own mother voluntarily stopped driving when she decided her eyesight and reaction times weren't as good as they once were.

One of the best ways to avoid growing old is to stay active.  Regular exercise is a significant factor in aging gracefully.  I am 76 and maintain the fitness program specified for 45-49 year olds in my regular 5BX program.  I am also a volunteer firefighter and EMR which keeps me active and productive in my community.

As you grow older you may find your wants and needs change.  You may also notice things that used to feel comfortable are not so friendly anymore, like driving a big vehicle or driving after dark.  you may be able to adjust your activities to continue to sustain your favorite fun things to do and yet accommodate your new concerns.  Often you can schedule your outings to avoid driving after dark if that bugs you.  If you no longer like driving your big RV you might want to downsize or have one of your kids or a friend do the driving.

So, don't let the calendar or some arbitrary number of birthdays determine when you have to stop camping, boating, or riding your OHV.  After all, having more birthdays is a good thing:  the more you have the longer you live!  Try to maintain a healthy lifestyle, which includes good nutrition and adequate exercise.  Exercise doesn't have to be daunting or expensive.  Personally I use the 5BX program developed for the Canadian Air Force in the early 1950s and adopted by the  US Air Force.  You can stay relatively fit working out just 11 minutes a day.  I am pleased that I am able to maintain the level specified for 45-49 year olds at my age (76) and feel I can keep going just about anything I want as long as I can keep that up.  BTW, 5BX only takes about 11 minutes a day and requires no special equipment or even special clothing.

Just Do It!

Boat Clutter

A boat or camper, like any other form of abode, will collect clutter if you don't make a conscious effort to avoid it.  It is just about as easy to accumulate clutter in a boat, an RV or camper as it is at home.  Fortunately, at least for us, there are usually fewer opportunities to collect unnecessary souveniers out on the water than in campgrounds or while traveling, but it is still way to easy to bring aboard items for a single outing that seem to never find their way back home.  And, while it may not be as likely to accumulate a lot of unnecessary stuff on a boat, it is likely to be more important to get rid of excess weight.  Excess weight in an RV can impact gasoline mileage if there is enough of it and, if heavy enough may affect the ride, performance, and safety.  On a boat, any excess weight is absolutely going to affect displacement -- how deep your boat sets in the water -- and that will definitely affect handling, performance, comfort, and safety much more than it does in an RV or tow vehicle.

Just like an RV or a set of camping bins, boats will benefit greatly from routine inventory and organization.  Often you may find it even more important to be sure you have everything you need on board and aren't carrying around a lot of extra weight.  Extra weight usually means a drop in performance for both power boats and sail boats and can affect handling and safety too.  Because there aren't as many places you can acquire more "stuff" out on the lake or the ocean, you might not accumulate excess as quickly as you would in an RV or even when tent camping, but it is way too easy to "bring along" something for a specific outing and leave in on board indefinitely.  Over time that can amount to a lot of extra weight and a lot of stuff you have to move or sort through when you need something.  A lot of things that seemed like a good idea at the time may turn out not to be necessities and might better be left on shore.  Every time you launch your boat and every time you have downtime at anchor is a good opportunity to check your inventory.  You gain at least three benefits from this:  1) identifying items that are used up, damaged or expired so you can replace them. 2) finding things you don't need on board all the time, and 3) locating things you need but might have forgotten where they were stowed.

Unseen boat clutter hides in cabinets and compartments.  This is where we tend to accumulate most of the stuff we don't need onboard.  However, it is essential to keep your cabin and cockpit well organized and free of clutter.  Loose ropes in the cockpit and on the deck are a serious safety hazard.  Same with any kind of obstacles that might impede your movement on deck.  Unrestrained items in the cabin and hold also get in the way and can become dangerous projectiles during violent movement, causing serious injuries to anyone in their way or serious damage to other parts of the cabin.  Keep things properly organized and stowed both on the deck and in the cabin and the hold.
 
There are very likely at least as many ways (or more) to organize your boat as there are sailors but there are some general guidelines that can make life easier.  Unless you have a really big yacht, space is going to be at a premium and you will want to make use of every bit you have and do it efficiently.  Some things, like cooking utensils and food related supplies obviously belong in the galley.  Things like boat hooks should be stored somewhere topside so you don't have to dig them out when docking.  Tools should be easily accessible.  My Venture 24 sailboat has a small compartment right where you step down through the companionway into the cabin that I found to be a good spot for my tools and spare parts.  They are out of the way of normal activity but quick and easy to get to when they are needed.  Things like life jackets and other flotation devices should always be within easy reach.  You want to be able to don your life jacket at the first sign of turbulent conditions and throwable flotation devices (used to aid passengers who fall overboard without a life jacket) must be immediately available.  Coast Guard regulations require you to have a life jacket on board for every passenger and it is not a bad idea for everyone to wear one at all times.  If you choose not to wear it all the time, ALWAYS make sure it is within easy reach and you know where it is.  Throwable floation devices, like life preservers and throwable cushions should be readily accessible from the cockpit.  Many boats have storage under the cockpit, accessible through one or more hatches in the cockpit.  This is also a good place for other things you might need while underway.  Some things need to be right at  hand, like the winch handle for sailboats.  When the boat is docked in port or the marina you might want to stow the winch handle inside to avoid it being stolen, but when sailing it is good to have it in a holster attached to the cabin bulkhead next to the companionway hatch. within easy reach of the winches.  Throwable cushions are a good way to add both comfort and safety to the cockpit.  They are a lot nicer to sit on than wood, fiberglass, or metal seats and are readily available if someone falls overboard.

Tool kits are essential to maintain your boat and effect emergency repairs out on the water.  However, you should try to limit your tool kit to just what you might need -- and know how to use -- to get back to the dock -- any dock -- if something goes wrong.   I have seen articles that suggest having cordless drills on board, but personally I think that, unless you have a large, powerful boat, they are likely to add too much weight and take up too much room for the few times you will actually find your need them.  And, most of us don't get out on our boats as often was we would like and the batteries are likely to be dead by the time we need to use the drill/driver.  I would recommend sticking with a basic set of hand tools that will let you take care of most routine tasks and basic emergency repairs.  Such a tool kit doesn't have to take up a lot of room or add a lot of weight.  And, as always, look for multi-use tools that can help minimize what you need to bring along.  Some basics to consider include pliers, wrenches, screwdrivers and and adjustable wrench like a Crescent wrench.  Check to see if your boat has any fasteners with special heads that might require square drives or torx bits.  I have seen recommendations to carry cordless tools like drill/drivers on your boat.  I carried one on my sailboat for a while but found I didn't really use it often enough to warrant to extra space and weight it took.  I left if out when we switched boats.  I think I might carry little Worx 4.5 volt cordless screwdriver though.  They take up little room, don't weigh much, and are surprisingly powerful and can probably handle anything I would want to attempt out on the water.

After you've had your boat for a while it is a good idea to take time to go through and take inventory of everything you have on board.  Over time some needed tools or supplies will get lost or used up or become outdated and need to be replaced and you will tend to accumulate miscellaneous items you don't need on every trip.  Taking time to take inventory lets you get rid of unnecessary stuff, replace important missing or damaged items, and, in general, refresh your memory of what you have and where it is.  If you find stuff you never use, seriously consider taking it home unless it is a critical tool or survival item.  When you find damaged or missing tools, replaced them.  Outdated supplies should be discarded and outdated or used up supplies replaced.  It might also be a good time to consider how effective your current organization plan is and to relocate frequently used items to where they will be more easily accessed.  However, because we are creatures of habit there is sometimes great value in keeping things where "they've always been" rather than moving them to "where they should be".  It is also more important to be sure you have essential items and can find them quickly.  Emergencies on the water are usually unforgiving.

Deck and Cockpit clutter is particularly dangerous.  When you are underway you need to be able to move about the deck or cockpit safely and have ready access to all instruments and controls.  Clutter on the deck or in the cockpit can seriously impact your ability to safely handle your boat and keep your passengers safe.   Any loose items can become dangerous projectiles if there is an violent manuevers or rough seas.  It is all to easy to let sheets and halyards on a sailboat pile up and they become trip hazards or get tangled so you can't use them when needed to adjust the sails when the wind changes.   Likewise, dock lines on all boats need to be carefully and safely stowed, both on the boat and on the dock.

There are SO many nice gadgets and goodies for boats it is really easy to accumulate a lot of seemingly worthwhile items.  However, if you don't find them useful or don't use them often, you might be better off  tucking them away in the garage until you are ready to use them.  Otherwise you may find your boat cluttered with "good"things.  Space on boats tends to be even more precious and limited than in RVs so you REALLY need to make the most of by getting rid of unused or unnecessary things.  As we prepared to put our boat in the water this spring my wife and I agreed we needed to go through all the little cubbyholes and clear out unneeded items.  Sometimes it is hard to decide what to remove, but lightening the load not only reduces the weight and displacement of the boat it makes it easier to find and use what you leave on board.  Sometimes you can have too much of good things.

Boats can also accumulate unwanted stuff on the hull below the waterline.  A buildup of barnacles, algae, and/or other materials will add weight and resistance.   Stuff might build up on the hull, rudder, and propeller.  You would be surprised how much drag even a coating of algae can  create.  Boat bottoms require special paint.  Usually it contains copper to reduce growth of barnacles and is designed so ablation helps keep junk from adhering.  While that helps keep the bottom clean, it does mean the bottom must be repainted on a regular schedule to maintain protection, performance, and appearance.  The same applies to rudder, propellers, center boards, and any other equipment that resides below the surface.  Consider the sheer square footage of surface area of the hull underwater and what happens when the slick, freshly painted surface gets covered with algae, barnacles, or other debris.  Any accumulation on or deterioration of the bottom paint can have negative consequences.   Even a small percentage increase in the coefficient of friction when multiplied by the surface area is going to have a big impact on performance.  Even if you are not racing you want your boat to move through the water as smoothly and easily as possible.  In some jurisdictions there are stringent rules about keeping hulls clean to prevent the spread of undesirable and invasive species that attach themselves to boat hulls so there may be legal requirement to keep your boat clean too!

Clean it up!

Cordless Tools for Camping

Power tools for camping?  Are you kidding? One of the reasons we go camping is to "get away from it all", so why would you want to take power tools camping?  Doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose?  Well, perhaps, but we do still enjoy our modern conveniences.  There are lots and lots of screws on motorhomes, travel trailers, and campers and having a cordless screwdriver to keep them all tight can be really nice and save a lot of time and effort.

Our modern technology has produced a plethora of  cordless tools that add convenience and make many tasks easier.  Some of these can be used in an RV, on a boat, or even when tent camping too.  Being cordless they can be used just about anywhere without the need for direct access to 120 volt power.    I've even seen them recommended for use on sailboats.  Of course, you will either need some way to recharge the batteries or bring along plenty of fully charged batteries to last more than a day or so.  Solar battery chargers are a convenient way to recharge many types of batteries.  If you can't find a solar charger for your cordless battery you might be able to use a solar panel and an inverter to power the factory 120 volt charger.  Even the little 150 watt inverters that plug into a cigarette lighter should be powerful enough to charge batteries for cordless tools.  If you use such a device, be sure to monitor the charge off the 12 volt battery (RV, boat, or vehicle battery) is it connected to.  Be especially careful when charging them off the vehicle starting battery except when the engine is running to avoid drawing down the battery and being unable to start your vehicle.  Considering the weight of cordless tools and the space they take up you will want to be sure they are worth bringing along.  If you seldom use them, you should probably leave them at home, especially the larger, heavier ones and even more especially if you have space or weight limitations.  Be sure to plug them in a day or so before each trip to make sure they will be ready to use when you need them.

Perhaps the most familiar and most popular cordless tool is a drill/driver.  These are available in a variety of sizes.  Size is usually defined by the largest drill bit the chuck will accept.  1/4', 3/8" and 1/2" units are typical.  Another measurement is power, which is usually determined by the battery voltage.  Common drill/driver batteries are 12, 18, and 20 volts.  As you might expect, the higher the voltage, the more powerful the drill.  Recent advances in battery technology have further enhanced the strength and performance of power cells for drill/drivers.  The older 12 and 18 volt batteries had a tendency to be heavy and to take a fairly long time to charge.  Modern 20 volt lithium-ion batteries are usually lighter, hold a charge longer, and charge faster.  Lithium-ion batteries also continue to deliver satisfactory performance right up until the charge is gone, whereas with older style batteries the power would slowly decrease as the battery lost charge.  Sometimes that comes as a surprise to the user when the device just suddenly stops working, as if a switch or connection had failed.  If your lithium-ion powered cordless device stops working, be sure to charge the battery before concluding it is worn out or has failed.

A drill/driver is a handy tool to have around an RV.  There are hundreds of screws that hold things together.  Sometimes they need routine tightening; sometimes you need to remove panels or disassemble components to do other work.  A drill/driver makes these tasks faster and easier.  If you routinely do your own maintenance you will quickly find a cordless drill/driver indispensable for things like installing, removing, and replacing things like roof vents and windows.  However, you probably won't be replacing vents and windows in camp very often but it can be invaluable at home!

Why not just use a 120 volt drill if I have 120 volt power available?  I suppose you could for some things, but the cords often get in the way or restrict access to where you can use them.  In addition, and perhaps more importantly, cordless drill/drivers have a clutch system built into the chuck that allows you to select a torque setting so you don't over-drive a screw and sink it below the surface.  A screw isn't going to hold a panel in place if it is driven all the way through the panel.  BTW, 120 volt drills are usually more powerful and will be faster if you're drilling a lot of holes, especially in heavy materials.

Another cordless tool I have found extremely useful around home and in my RV is a Worx brand cordless screwdriver.  It is only 4 volts, with a built in rechargable battery.  In place of a chuck it has shaft with a 1/4" hex socket.  It has a feature not found in larger drill/drivers, but is extremely useful:  the shaft can be extended to reach into places that the fat chuck on a regular drill/driver can't possible fit.  You can get a variety of  1/4" hex drive bits to fit the socket.  I even have a set of a few small drill bits with hex drives on them.  I was pleasantly surprised by both the power and how long a charge lasts, especially for such a small, low voltage  unit.  It is light weight, easy to use with one hand, and stores easily in any tool box or kitchen drawer.  It does not have the clutch feature of larger units but, even though it has plenty of power to drive long screws, it generally doesn't over-drive them.  It doesn't have the high speed and high torque of a regular drill/driver for drilling holes, but will work for some light drilling using hex-shanked drill bits.  If I only had the room or the budget for a single cordless tool for my RV, boat, or camp kit, it would be a Worx 4 volt screwdriver along with a variety of screwdriver and nutdriver bits an some hex-shank drills.   These are small enough and light enough to take just about anywhere, even as part of a boat took kit.   With the high number of screws that secure many parts of an RV, a power screwdriver can save a lot of time keeping things together on the road.

If  you do a lot of OHV or other mechanical work in the field, you might find a cordless impact wrench to be a good addition to you tool kit.  I keep one in my motorcycle trailer.  You can sometimes  use nut drivers in a cordless drill/driver for many routine tasks, but if you really need to loosen a tight fastener, an impact wrench is what you'll need.  One task for which I have found that is almost impossible to do without  damaging parts without an impact wrench is disassembling the clutch on my dirt bikes.  I've seen guys try to secure the "cage" with some kind of lever (a screwdriver, wrench handle, lug wrench, or crow bar) while loosening the nut with a socket and ratchet, but often as not it ends up damaging the cage.  An impact wrench can spin the nut loose without damaging the cage.

You can even get battery powered soldering irons.   I have one about the size of a penlight and it works pretty well for light duty soldering of electronic parts and runs on ordinary AA batteries.

Bits and accessories.  To get the most out of your cordless tools you will need the right selection of bits.  Look for a kit than contains a variety of bits:  2 or 3 sizes each of flat and Philips bits, some hex bits, and some torx bits.  On many RVs  you will also need a square drive bit.  Also carry a set of twist drills with hex shanks.  Nut drivers, both SAE and metric, are available with 1/4" hex drives that fit the same 1/4" hexsockets as standard screwdriver tips letting you use our power tool in even more situations.  Something I have found handy are extra long screwdriver bits.  Many of the variety packs of bits have bits that are only about an inch long and are intended to be  used in a extension gripped in the chuck of the drill/driver.  Standard bits commonly used in drill/drivers for most tasks are about 1 1/2" long.    Some are reversable with a Philips tip on one end and a flat tip on the other.   I like to have a few 3-4" bits on hand to reach past obstructions.   That has been less of a factor for me since getting my Worx screwdriver with the extendable shaft, but they are still useful to have.

For those with bigger budgets you can even get cordless chain saws for ease in handling your fire wood.   I wouldn't want to count on one to match a gasoline powered model for cutting a cord of firewood, but for light use around camp they should be great.  The only major downside I've seen so far is that they tend to be a little pricey, but when the prices come down I plan to add one to my motorhome to replace an old 12-volt chain saw I've had for years.

There are even cordless kitchen appliances you might find useful.  Some options include cordless blenders, mixers, and knives.  The power requirements for cooking appliances (like electric frying pans stoves and ovens) are pretty much beyond the capabilities of current battery technology but as batteries improve you might start to see them coming on the market.  For now, cordless blenders and mixers can make some food preparation tasks around camp easier.

Just about any cordless tool you might use in your RV or boat might also be used when tent camping.  However, the opportunities to use power tools when tent camping will be more limited than when camping in an RV or maintaining a flock of  OHVs.  There just aren't very many places you need to drill holes or drive or tighten screws in a tent!  Of course, weight and space considerations will be significant factors in deciding what cordless tools you might want to bring along, especially if you have to hike in any distance to your camp site.

Keep your cordless tools charged!  Stocking your RV or camp kit with cordless tools won't do you any good if they aren't charged and ready to go when you need them.  Check the manufacturer's charging instructions.  Some can be left on the charger indefinitely so they are always fully charged but some caution you to avoid over charging and leaving those on the charger will damage the battery.  Since most of us don't get to enjoy our RVs as much as we would like, it is too easy to forget about our cordless tools until we need them.  It might be a good idea to have pre-trip checklist that includes charging your cordless batteries a day or two before your departure (along with turning on the fridge to pre-cool it before each trip).    If possible bring along a way to recharge batteries for cordless tools as necessary during your trip.  If you have an RV with a generator you can just plug in the charger anytime you are running the generator.  If you don't have a generator or are car camping, pick up an inexpensive inverter that plugs into your cigarette lighter so you can plug your cordless chargers into it when necessary.  I use a portable inverter to recharge cordless batteries on my boat where the 12 volt deep cycle battery is maintained by a solar panel.

We don't always think of radios as tools, but in reality they often are.  They are sources of information, entertainment, and communication.  Portable radios, both simple receivers to have access to news, weather, and entertainment and two-way radios to facilitate remote communications, are very valuable cordless tools for camping, RVing, boating, and OHVing.  Having solar charging capabilities or a built in crank powered generator can make them even better suited to outdoor recreational  and emergency use.

Cut the cord!

OHV Insurance

If your OHV is financed you will probably be required to have insurance to protect the lender in case it is damaged, destroyed or stolen.  Some states require insurance on some ATVs.  Some off road riding areas require insurance.  Be sure you know the insurance requirements where you intend to operate your OHV.

If your OHV is a "dual-sport" or street legal vehicle you will have to have insure it just like you do any other vehicle operated on public roads.  However, you may want to make sure your policy covers off highway incidents so make sure you agent knows it will be used as a dual-sport vehicle.

Even when insurance is not required it is a good thing to have.  Surprisingly, your home owners liability insurance may cover some OHV incidents, but not always.  Given the tort-happy legal environment we live in, having liability insurance to protect you in case you run into someone else out on the trail can protect you against possibly significant law suits.

Like most vehicle insurance policies, you can usually chose varying levels of coverage.  The greater the degree of coverage, the higher the premiums will be.  Some coverages even include allowances to replace riding gear that is damaged or stolen.  Expect the premiums for comprehensive coverage to be somewhat high because the risk of physical damage to off road vehicles is often considered higher than it is for vehicles only driven on public roads.  The very nature of off-road activities tends to lead to more chances of damage.  

Not all insurance companies offer OHV protection.  You can always check with the provider of your automobile policy but you may have to find another company to get OHV insurance.  I have personally confirmed that both Geico and Progressive offer OHV insurance.  As always, you may able to save money or get better coverage by shopping around for a policy that meets your needs and your budget.

Be properly protected!

RV Insurance

Like any other motor vehicle, RVs must have liability insurance to be driven on public roads.  However, as always, comprehensive and collision coverage is normally optional unless it is required by a lien holder.  Given the high cost of many RVs and their accessories, comprehensive coverage might be considered extremely valuable.  For example, a good RV comprehensive policy will replace your awning if it comes unfurled on the  highway or you catch it on a tree in a campground.  Not all automobile policies will cover RV accessories if you simply add your RV to your car insurance.

You might  be able to add your RV to your  automobile policy, but unless they are already well known for covering RVs, chances are you won't get the best deal or the best coverage.  The time I tried to add my RV to a very good automobile policy they quoted me a premium that was more than double what I'd been paying for RV coverage previously -- and the coverage they offered was limited.

Companies that specialize or at least provide some focus on RV policies understand that RVs are different than cars and often, if not always, offer coverage that specifically targets the special features of RVs (such as awnings, roof air conditioners, etc).

The folks at reviews.com have done a very good job at exploring and recommending RV insurance.  Check out their report at www.reviews.com/rv-insurance.  If you still want to look at other companies or just want to confirm that you're making the right choice, listed below are some things to consider.

What should you look for in an RV policy?  First of all, you will want to make sure you are dealing with a reputable company that is stable enough to pay claims if you have any.  If you don't recognize the name of the company, try looking it up on the Internet or check the Better Business Bureau where the company is located.   You will want to confirm financial stability and their claims history and  customer satisfaction.   A significant factor in considering any insurance policy is always the premiums.  However, low premiums, attractive as they may be, might be deceptive.  Make sure  you know and are comfortable with the coverage you get.  Unusually low premiums are usually connected with unusually low risk (e.g., low coverage).   You could soon find any premium savings eaten up when you discover something  you thought was covered isn't.  Better RV policies will include coverage to replace a damaged awning or a roof A/C if you happen to drive under a low hanging obstacle and damage it.  Such coverages are usually excluded when an RV is added to an ordinary automobile policy.

Liability insurance is usually required by state law before you can operate your vehicle on public roads.   Most companies are familiar with the minimum legal requirements and won't offer any coverage less that that required by law.  However, for  your own protection, make sure the coverages are, at the very least, adequate for your jurisdiction.  Depending on your personal financial situation you may want to increase liability coverage.  Doing so will, of course, increase your premium, but, in the event you are in an "at fault" accident you will have higher coverages to protect your personal assets should the other party sue you for damages.  There is nothing that requires them to accept what your insurance will pay as payment full.  If you have a policy with low limits, it will help keep  your premiums low, but you may find yourself facing a court judgement forcing you to pay for damages not covered by  the limits of  your insurance policy.

Should I buy collision and comprehensive coverage?  This decision is usually based on financial considerations.  While is is always nice to be fully covered if anything happens to your RV, only you can decide if the cost of full coverage is justified.  Just like other vehicles, the value of RVs decline as they get older so there often comes a time when collision and comprehensive coverage aren't worth the extra premiums.  Collision and comprehensive are usually required by the lien holder whenever your RV is financed, regardless of the age or value.  They want to be sure their collateral won't disappear if you have an accident.

RV comprehensive coverage usually includes RV specific features or adjusted limits to accommodate the higher value of RV components and contents.  As previously mentioned, awnings and roof A/Cs are usually among the extras included in a good RV comprehensive policy.  Another thing to look for is higher coverage for contents.  RVs are very likely to have contents that greatly exceed the normal content limits for ordinary cars.  Think about what you have in  your RV (appliances, entertainment systems, personal belongings, recreational equipment, electronics, etc) that you don't carry around in your ordinary car and look for a policy that will cover those items if they are lost, damaged, destroyed, or stolen.

One popular  feature among RV policies is being able to declare the vehicle non-operational while in off-season storage and pay a lower premium while it is in storage during the off season.   Such policies usually require you to have full coverage and the comprehensive part of the coverage remains in full force while the vehicle is in storage, but the liability and collision features may be suspended.  If you take advantage of this option, be sure to notify your insurance company before  you get your RV out of storage for a new season so your all your coverage is in force before  you drive it again.

Unlike motorized RVs, towable RVs usually don't require liability insurance, although it could be required by a lien holder.   If your RV is paid for, all coverage is optional for a towable but you still need liability insurance on the tow vehicle.   Again, you must decide whether the cost of the insurance is worth it to you.  Basically, the more valuable your RV, the better it is to have it fully insured.  Personally, I have never carried any kind of insurance on my towable RVs.  They have all been older units whose value didn't justify the cost of the insurance.  Over many years I have saved enough in premiums to pay to replace any of my towables.  But had one been involved in an accident early in the process, that might not have been the case.  Your car insurance usually covers liability associated with trailer it is towing should it cause damage or injury.

There are a few other types of insurance offered to RVers.  They include mechanical repair insurance, road hazard protection for tires, and trip insurance.

Mechanical repair insurance is only available to newer units under a certain number of miles, but it is kind of like an extended warranty.  Such policies usually cover just about all mechanical breakdowns, but always be sure to read the terms and conditions and make sure you follow all necessary maintenance guidelines and adhere religiously to claim submission requirements.  Failure to prove performance of required maintenance or not following claim approval procedures exactly can often result in a denial of your claim.

Road hazard is usually an option available when you buy new tires.  It will usually replace a tire that is damaged from hitting something on the road  It could be debris or even just a nail you might have picked up.  Road hazard is sometimes included at no extra cost when you buy tires but even if you have to pay a few dollars extra it is usually worth it.  RV tires are expensive and there are way too many things out there on our highways that can cause us to blow a tire.

Trip Insurance usually aids you in getting your RV home if  YOU become disabled during a trip.  There are also general trip insurance polices you can buy that may include Baggage, Travel Delay, Medical and Dental, and Emergency Assistance and Transportation.  If you are traveling in an RV and may need to have it brought home, make sure you purchase a policy that includes that option.  General trip insurance is typically designed for people traveling by air or train and usually doesn't cover bringing your RV home.
  
Be sure!

Boat Wiring

In some ways wiring on boats is similar to wiring on RVs, but there are also some very important differences.   One that is often overlooked but is very important is the need to use Marine Grade wire in all marine applications.  Another is the need to waterproof connections.  Also, most RVs use only 12 volt DC systems for the living quarters.  Boats may use 12, 24, or even 48 volt DC systems.

Marine grade wire.  The high humidity and often, exposure to salt air, demands the wire itself be specially designed for the marine environment.  Marine wiring will typically have more, smaller copper strands than automotive wiring of the same gauge.  Each strand will also be tinned.  Using ordinary copper wiring on a boat is asking for trouble.  I had to completely rewire our 24' sailboat because some previous owner (perhaps even the factory!) had wired it with zip cord!   I understand that zip cord is readily available, inexpensive, and easy to work with, but it corrodes way too easily to last very long in a marine environment.  That being said it might have already lasted nearly 50 years since my boat was that old so for short term use it might not be quite such an issue.  Virtually all  the connections were badly corroded and crumbling.  Several connections had literally turned to dust!  Fortunately, it didn't cause a fire, but virtually none of the fixtures or connections were functional and none could be salvaged.

Waterproof connections are needed to prevent moisture from accelerating corrosion where wires are joined to connected to fixtures.   The first step is to solder all joints rather than using crimp terminals.  Then use heat-shrink tubing or coat the joint with a liquid sealer like that used to dip handles of hand tools.  Wrapping joints with electrical tape is perhaps better than nothing, but usually doesn't completely seal out the ever-present moisture in marine environments.  Moisture will eventually find its way through even the tightest tape windings.  I recently saw a Youtube showing hot to waterproof a wire connection by rolling the connection in the melted plastic from a milk bottle cap.  Just melt one edge of the rim of the cap using a lighter or blowtorch and roll the connection in the melted plastic until all the naked metal is covered and sealed over the remaining insulation.

Like RVs, boats may have two or more wiring systems.   Power boats will have a wiring system for the engine, including instruments and controls.  Small pleasure boats may have a low-voltage (usually 12 or 24 volts) DC system for lights and some communications equipment.  Larger boats sometimes use a 48 volt DC system and may have an onboard generator or batteries and an inverter to power 120 volt AC systems to support residential style lights, outlets, and appliances.  The 120 volt wiring systems will normally conform to stringent marine codes that are typically an enhancement of residential wiring codes.  Older DC systems will probably use red conductors for positive and black conductors for negative lines just like homes and RVs.  Because of the potential confusion between black for negative DC and black for hot AC lines, newer marine systems use a yellow conductor for negative DC lines.  Of course the electricity doesn't care what color the insulation is so any color wire will carry the current, but the electrician who works on it (whether is is you or someone who comes after you) will care so try to adhere to the normal conventions.  It will avoid future problems.

Because boats are often made of wood or fiberglass it is mandatory that every fixture has a ground wire  and that the ground connections are clean and secure.  A loose or corroded connection will cause performance problems such as dim, intermittent or flickering lights.  They might also cause arcing which could cause a fire or, if fuel fumes are present, even an explosion!  Land based motor vehicles usually have a metal frame which can serve as a ground, but wooden and fiberglass boats need separate ground wires to every fixture or appliance.

For durability as well as convenience and a good appearance when running wiring, use multi-conductor cable rather than running 2 or more individual lines.  It will be quicker and easier to install and will give a more finished appearance and will be less subject to wear from being rubbed.  The additional insulation surrounding the combined conductors also provides extra protection against moisture and abrasions that could cause a short giving an extra measure of safety and longevity.

Navigation lights are critical on a boat.  You never know when you might be caught out after dark, even if you usually plan on being off the water well before sundown.  It is especially important that wiring for navigation lights is robust and won't succumb to corrosion and leave you dark when you need it most.  Modern LED navigation lights consume much less electricity than older incandescent lights and the LED bulbs last for thousands of hours.  With proper wiring you should be able to count on your LED navigation lights for many years.  There are three primary navigation lights:  red, visible from the port side; green visible from the starboard side; and white, visible from the rear.  Some combination red/green lights are also visible from the front.  Another light often required is a 360 degree white light mounted high above the navigation lights for a boat at anchor.  On a sailboat it is usually mounted on the top of the mast.  Note:  some inexpensive LED lights create radio interference if mounted near antennas, radio cables, or electronic equipment,  If mounting LED lights where radio interference might be a problem  go for the more expensive lights that are RF protected.

Like most jobs, having the right tools will make things easier and make better connections.   While it is possible to strip insulation from wire using a knife, a wire stripper is faster, safer, and does a better job.  If you are using crimp terminals anywhere you will need a wire crimper.  I've seen folks try using pliers and it just doesn't work!  You really need the indentation crimpers make to form a good connection.  Just smashing the two sides of the terminal together with pliers will let the wire slip out if there is ever any tension on the wire at all.  A good soldering iron is also very useful.  Soldered connections will be sturdier and less susceptible to marine corrosion than crimped connections, making them last longer and less likely come apart or to cause a short or a fire!

If you have a sailboat, I recommend pulling some extra wire through the mast when you have the mast down.  Or at least leave yourself a pull string for future use.  You may need to install or repair an anchor light or steaming light and it is a LOT easier to pull wire when the mast is down instead of having to climb the mast.  You may need to add a light or need to change wires if existing wiring gets damaged.  Of course, check all the lights when the mast is down to be sure they will work when you are out on the water.  If you plan to add or update any lighting, do it when you have the mast down.  The previous owner of my sailboat left an extra pull string in the mast I can use when I need to pull more wire.  When I use it I plan to pull another string in case I need one again.

When running wires in the mast you may need to install them in a conduit.  This is essential if your halyards are run inside the mast.  It also protects the wires against chafing and helps silence noise from the banging around inside the mast which can be really annoying if your boat is rocking when you are trying to sleep.  You can also use foam pipe insulation or a pool noodle to cushion the wiring if your halyards run outside the mast.  If you use them where halyards run inside the mast make sure they don't crowd the halyards.  Cushioning is usually most important near each end of the mast where there mounting hardware intrudes where wires could rub and where the wires are usually pulled close to the edge of the mast.

For added safety and protection against moisture, use heat shrink tubing on all joints.  It can even be used over wire nuts to help seal them.   Of course, it is better to use soldered connections than wire nuts in a marine environment but there may be some places, like interior cabin lights, where you might want to use wire nuts to facilitate future lighting changes.  In many automotive and even RV applications you can get away with using wire nuts or just twisting wires together and wrapping the joint with electrical tape.  In a marine environment is is better to solder the joints and secure them with heat shrink tubing.  Twisted and taped joints or wire nut connections are more likely to absorb moisture and corrode.  You might also seal them with the kind of plastic dip used to coat tool handles.  You want to make sure NO moisture gets into the joints!

120 volt AC systems on a boat must always be protected by Equipment Leakage Circuit Interrupters (ELCI) and Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI).  It doesn't matter whether the power is coming from a shore cable or from on onboard source, such as a generator or battery banks and inverter and/or solar panel.   Any failure in the electrical system can put both the people on the boat and any nearby swimmers at risk for their lives!  While people on the boat may experience a fatal or non-fatal shock, swimmers could receive a paralyzing dose of electricity and drown immediately due to involuntary loss of muscle control.   Even on the soundest boats, water sometimes puddles in the cockpit or bilge  and creates hazards we don't normally face on land or in RVs.   It would always be a good idea to enlist the services or at least seek the advice of a qualified marine electrician when installing or modifying 120 volt electrical components on your boat.

Shore power cords for boats differ from shore power cords for RVs.  They have water-proof, twist lock connectors.  The twist lock connectors are required to prevent accidental disconnects from movement of the boat while docked.  Even when docked boats can move quite a bit due to tides, currents, and wind.  You don't want a live power cord falling off into the water!  The water-proof requirement is pretty much self-explanatory for something plugged into a receptacle on a dock next to or floating on the water and exposed to rain.  If a power cord should come disconnected and fall into the water it may cause an electrocution hazard for anyone in contact with the water nearby.  Always use extra caution when connecting or disconnection shore power.  Any shore power sources SHOULD have their own ELCI and GFCI protection.  If they don't, lodge a complaint with the marina and avoid using them until they are brought into compliance before someone gets electrocuted!

Power  up!