Wildfires Affect Camping

What do you care about the wildfires?  Well, unless you live near the fire, you probably don't.  But since I do, I am using it as an example for what we all should do if we live or visit areas that are subject to wildfires.   Several popular campgrounds were initially threatened by the Lookout Fire in Oregon and put under Level 3 evacuation (GET OUT NOW!) orders.  As the fire got larger even more campgrounds were closed and evacuated.

Campers are often affected by wildfires.  Most often they may have to switch destinations or evacuate a campground because of fires.  Unfortunately, campers sometimes start wildfires.  Usually it is inadvertently, due to ignorance or carelessness, but I have seen campers deliberately and knowingly and willingly violate fire restrictions and cause a forest fire!  Don't be the yahoo who starts a forest fire!  Pay attention to fire restrictions and ALWAYS follow safe campfire procedures.

For the second time in 3 years a significant wildfire has started within 3 miles or our home.  In 2020, the Holiday Farm Fire began just 3 miles west of our house.  Unusually strong east winds (35-55 mph with gusts up to 85 mph!) blew it down river (away from us), charring more and 173,000 acres in about a week.

Now (2023) the Lookout Fire, started by lightning about 3 miles north of our house.  It has now been burning 15 days and has burned 10,521 acres (including controlled burnouts by firefighters) but is moving north and northeast, away from our house.

A couple of weeks later some welcome rain also brought lightning -- 1,633 strikes in Oregon in one day!  That started 50 new fires, with the Horse Creek Fire origin again just a few miles from our house!   We were basically surrounded by wildfires within a few miles of our home for several weeks.  Smoke made the air very unhealthy, so unhealthy that some businesses were closed so employees didn't have to work in the polluted air.  Fortunately, we were able to get an air purifier to improve the air quality in our home.

The Holiday Farm Fire was a once in 500 year event, with days and days of hot dry winds before the fire and unusually strong east winds driving the fire -- winds 35 - 55 mph and gusts up to 85 mph! Fortunately, the fires this year are more "normal", and fire fighting agencies have had time to work them successfully.

We were under Level 3 Evacuation orders (GET OUT NOW!) for both fires.  Evacuation levels include Level 1 (Get Ready), Level 2 (Get Set) and Level 3 (Get Out Now!).   Anyone who, like us, lives in the forest, should really always consider themselves at Level 1 and always have things organized and ready to to if you do get an evacuation notice.  That means gathering and organizing important papers, valuables, and keepsakes so you know where they are and can quickly load them up if you have to leave.  You won't always get all three Levels.  The Holiday Farm Fire moved so quickly that many areas were immediately at Level 3 without any advance warning.  Some residents of a nearby RV park initially refused to leave, until there were 25' flames within 10' of their RVs!  More advance notice might have been helpful, but all too often people just don't believe the risk that is facing them.  We went directly from Level 1 to Level 3 for the Lookout Fire last week.  Knowing the evacuation scenarios, my wife and I had starting preparing just about everything we needed even before we were notified we were under Level 1 Evacuation.  Having been closely involved withe Holiday Farm Fire in 2020, both as residents and as volunteer firefighters, we knew the urgency of clearing out right away when it hit Level 3.  Fortunately, aggressive fire control measures by the wildlands crews prevented the fire from reaching our McKenzie Bridge community and we were allowed back in after about 10 days.  It was so nice to go home -- and to still have a home to go to!

It isn't just residents (homes and businesses) that are subject to Wildfire Evacuations.  At least 3 campgrounds were initially subjected to Level 3 Evacuations due to the Lookout Fire. At least two or three more were evacuated as the fire moved northeast.  The good news is that campers, unlike residents, pretty much have everything they need more or less ready to pack up and go on short notice and, unless your camper is broken down, you aren't leaving your residence or other valuables behind.

When camping in the forest you are likely to be in places where you could experience wildfires with little or no notice.  Areas near the origin of the Holiday Farm Fire went immediately to Level 3 Evacuations.  One of the first venues to be evacuated was the Holiday Farm RV park.  While we go camping for fun an to relax and take things easy, it is a good idea to always keep things organized and put away things when you aren't using them so you can be ready to go at a moment's notice if you have to.  Some other things to consider are parking so you get get out quickly and easily.  When we go on a fire call we are taught to always park so we don't have to back up or turn around to escape if the fire comes after us.   Planning an escape route doesn't only apply to fire season.  You may need an escape route during rain or snow storms as well.  Keeping things organized and ready to go and your vehicles pointed in the direction you need to go is always a good idea.  Keep an eye on the weather during every outing, and, at the first sign of increasing risk of dangerous conditions take appropriate actions to make preparations to keep you and your family safe and ready to leave if/when the time comes.  If you camp in a trailer, try to back into your space so you can get out quickly in the case of any emergency.

The risk of wildfires or other natural disasters shouldn't deter you from enjoying the great outdoors.  However, I would strongly suggest you avoid venturing into any area currently affected by problems and that you carefully consider what you will need to do if problems do arise where you are.  DO NOT go into threatened areas just to ''see what is going on''.  Many times roads in and around fires will be closed to all but fire traffic.  DO NOT go past those ROAD CLOSED signs!    The last thing disaster workers need are "looky-lous" clogging roads or getting in the way of emergency operations.  If you want to help -- and are qualified to do so -- contact the appropriate local emergency services organizations to learn how and where you can be of service.  Untrained volunteers are usually not welcome on wildfires.  In years gone by "volunteers" were sometimes constricted from tourists passing through a wildfire area.  That no longer happens.  Fighting a wildfire requires extensive specialized training, both to ensure your personal safety and to limit the liability of agencies fighting the fire.

If you are interested, it is possible to get training as a wildlands firefighter, but it isn't easy.  You might be able to sign up through a state or Federal Forest Service or through one of the private wildland fire fighter companies.  You will have to have a valid driver's license and pass drug and background checks.  You will also need to be physically fit.  To get your red card (wildland firefighter certification), you will have to pass a Pack Test that involves hiking (not running) 3 miles in 45 minutes with a 50 lb pack on your back.  You will also complete training in fire behavior, fire weather, and topography along with learning how to cut hand lines and deploy and use wildland fire hose.

Stay safe and have fun!

Campers and Wildfires

Recent years have seen a marked increase in the frequency and severity of wildfires in many states.  Historically, most  wildfires were caused by lightning and many still are, but most these days are caused by human beings.  Many are due to carelessness or conscious disregard for fire regulations and restrictions.  A few are the result of arson.   

Wildfires affect campers and careless campers can affect wildfires.  If you are camping in the forest you may face a wildfire at some time.  Whether the fire was from a lightning strike or human error doesn't make a bit of difference.  You may need to evacuate on very short notice.  Campers must do their part to prevent wildfires.  ALWAYS know and follow fire regulations and exercise proper campfire safety procedures.

Having become a volunteer firefighter during my "retirement" years, I have become especially aware of and concerned about wildfires.  In 2020 we experienced the Holiday Farm Fire along the McKenzie River.  The fire started just 3 miles from our home.  Fortunately for us, it was down river and down wind from us.  The somewhat unusual East Winds (with gusts up to 85 mph) blew the fire down the valley like a blow torch, eventually scorching more than 173,000 acres and destroying nearly 800 structures before being brought under control.  Fortunately, there was only a single fatality, an older gentleman who initially refused to evacuate his mobile home when advised to do so.  Later, when it became apparent the fire was about to overtake him, he called for help but it was too late.  Rescuers were unable to get through the raging fire to reach him, despite a valiant effort.  If you are told to evacuate, don't wait!

Not long ago I responded to a brush fire at a commercial campground in our district.  Luckily the responding fire agencies (including state and US Forest service crews as well as our own rural fire department) were able to limit the damage to about 4 acres.  But the fire should never have gotten started in the first place.  In this case, it was due to willful, deliberate, and repeated violation of fire restrictions by campers in one of the camp sites.  The entire area was under EXTREME fire danger, as posted along the highway and upon entering the campground.  The subjects had been given written copies of the fire restrictions and verbally told NO CAMPFIRES.  In spite of all that, they still lit a campfire.  One of the campground staff discovered the fire, reminded them of the EXTREME fire danger and posted restrictions, and put the fire out.  Soon after he left their campsite, they re-lit their fire and it got out of control.  Just how dumb can you get?  Seems to me they could (and should) be sued for all the costs of fighting the fire and should also be subject to criminal charges for deliberately and repeatedly violating posted fire restrictions.  While ignorance is never a legitimate excuse, these folks were well aware of the fire restrictions and openly chose to violate them -- more than once!

We had another brush fire right across the street from the local USFS Ranger Station that was started by a camper ignoring posted fire restrictions during EXTREME fire danger.  How dense do you have to be to ignore fire restrictions within sight of a ranger station?

I can't even count the number of illegal campfires we have investigated and/or extinguished.  Why people do that is beyond comprehension.  As Forrest Gump wisely said:  "You can't fix stupid!"

So, what does all this have to do with RVing, OHVing, and camping?  Well, first, as responsible outdoor recreationalists we must ALWAYS know and obey fire regulation.  We must also exercise proper campfire safety at all times.  Secondly, we must be aware that we could find ourselves in the path of a wildfire just about anytime we are out in the forest. Wildfires are usually not seen in the desert area often used by OHV enthusiasts, but they can still happen there.  What should we do about it?

First of all, maintain situational awareness -- look for signs of an approaching fire and have a plan for evacuation.  Next, if you are contacted by law enforcement or fire service personnel and told to evacuate, to so immediately.  There are usually three levels of evacuations, numbered 1 through 3.  #1 means "GET READY".  In camp, start packing up and organizing your equipment and belongings to you are ready to go when the time comes.  #2 is "GET SET".  That means packing up, planning your escape route, and being ready to leave when told to do so.  #3 is "GO".   When you reach a Level 3 Evacuation, it is time to hit the road.  Don't even take time to change your shoes.  Get going NOW!  It is always a good idea to park so you can make a quick exit during an emergency and especially important during fire season.  Plan alternate routes ahead of time as many roads can be quickly closed during wildfires.  Wildfire can move amazingly fast and, if you need to evacuate, you don't want to waste time disconnecting packing up, and turning around or figuring out where you are going.

As outdoor recreationalists you may be caught in a wildfire situation.  In the old days, in some cases you might be recruited to help fight the fire.  Note that safely fighting a wildfire requires a significant amount of special training that you probably don't have.   I have heard of citizens near a wildfire in the old days being ''invited'' to help in the past, but because of liability issues these days that probably won't happen now.  Fighting wildfires requires a lot of very specific training.  If you do happen to be recruited or constricted to help fight a wildfire, pay close attention to the instructions you are given and adhere strictly to the assignment you are given.  The wildlands firefighters who will be directing you will be doing their best to keep you safe and for both your safety and theirs you must follow their directions.  Wildland firefighters wear fire-resistant clothing.  Since their Nomex clothing is very expensive you probably won't want to fork out the cash on the off chance you might get tagged to help.  If you do get asked to help, plan to wear at least a long-sleeved shirt and long pants.  Denim will give you more protection than light weight slacks.  You will also need sturdy boots.  Avoid steel toes as the steel can heat up if you are walking on hot ground.  Good leather gloves will also be essential.  You will probably be issued a hard hat but having one of your own might be a good idea.  Most likely you will be asked to assist in clearing fire lines.  These are lines 3' or more wide dug down to bare earth around ground fires to prevent or at least resist spreading.  Ground fire lines don't do anything for a crown fire -- a fire that is racing through the tops of the trees in the forest.  You might also be asked to remove "ladder fuels", which is brush and low hanging limbs fire can use to climb into the canopy.

Check the weather before you start out.  The NOAA weather forecasts will include predicted temperature, relative humidity predictions, wind predictions.  High temperatures, low humidity, and high winds all contribute to high fire danger.  Pay special attention to Red Flag Warnings.  Red Flag Warnings means the conditions for the rapid spread of wildfires are high.  Best to stay home or find other venues during a Red Flag situation, but, if you must go out during one be extra careful and pay extra attention to weather and strictly obey all fire restrictions.  Always plan an escape route in advance.  If you spot smoke near your location, you may want to leave before the fire gets too close.

If you see a fire (or even unexplained smoke), call it in immediately.  Even in areas of sketchy cell phone coverage you can sometime make 911 calls.  Provide as much information as you can, including the location, type of fuel (trees, grass, brush, structures, etc), height of the flames, and approximate size of the area involved.  If it is a small fire, such as a campfire that has just started to spread to surrounding vegetation, you might attempt to extinguish it, but only if you can do so safely.  Water or an ABC fire extinguisher or putting dirt on the fire are good ways to put it out.  For larger fires, your best action is to get out!

If you happen to live in an area that may experience wildfires or spend time camping in such places, there are at least two things you do.  First, be aware of evacuation levels and procedures for your area.  Level 1 is "Get Ready".  Level 2 is "Get Set".  Level 3 is "Go Now!".  If you are in an area that could experience wildfires, don't wait to be told you are at Level 1; always consider yourself at Level 1 and be ready to evacuate.  That means having your important papers, critical resources, and valuables identified and organized so you can quickly gather them up, put them in your car (or other vehicle) and be ready to leave.  Level 2, "Get Set", means actually gathering things up and putting them in your vehicle so that when you reach Level 3 "Go Now!" you just need to load your family and yourself into your vehicle and hit the road.  We have experienced Level 3 Evacuations twice in the last 3-4 years living in the Willamette National Forest in Oregon.  The first was for the Holiday Farm Fire in 2020, which started just 3 miles down river (and down wind fortunately!) from our house.  The second was in 2023 for the Lookout Fire that threatened our little town of McKenzie Bridge, which had, luckily, been spared during the Holiday Farm Fire in 2020.  Believe me, the last thing you want to be doing at nearly midnight when the power goes out and wildfire danger is imminent is trying to get things ready to go!  All you want to do is get in the car and get out of there!!!  I have seen Level 3 Evacuations where the flames were already close enough for the radiant heat to be almost unbearable for people evacuating.

Good old Smokey Bear reminds us that only we can prevent forest fires.  Some wildfires are started by lightning, but in recent years more are caused by humans.  Using good judgement, like maintaining proper campfire safety, obeying fire restrictions, and avoiding driving over dry grass, can prevent unnecessary wildfires.  Knowing what to do if/when you are near a wildfire could save your life and the lives of your loved ones.

Be fire safe!

Sunglasses for RVing, OHVing, Camping, and Boating

When we think of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), what usually comes to mind is OHV body armor or even something like firefighter turn out gear.  However, even something as common as ordinary sunglasses can be considered PPE but are often ignored.

Sunglasses are nearly essential for just about any outdoor recreational activities.    We see a lot of sources promoting the use of sunscreen to protect our skin against cancer-causing UV light.  Our eyes are also subject to UV light and are worth protecting.   Good sunglasses are more than just a fashion accessory or comfort.  They are essential for protecting our eyes against damaging UV radiation. which in addition to being uncomfortable can cause permanent damage to our eyes.  Sunglasses can be especially useful when we are around water -- on our boats or near the ocean or a lake.  

NOTE:  sunglasses are NOT an adequate substitute for safety glasses or goggles when you need to protect your eyes from flying debris.  Sturdy sunglasses can provide some protection against flying debris like wood chips from chopping wood or sparks kicked out by a popping campfire.  They are not an adequate substitute for safety goggles, but can provide some protection.  You should still wear real safety glasses or goggles when performing any task that might generate flying debris or when riding in or on OHVs.  While sunglasses might block some things flying directly into your eyes, they lack the strength and wrap-around protection provided by safety glasses.  The primary use of sunglasses to to reduce the glare and discomfort and improve vision in bright sunlight along with protecting from UV radiation.  To many people they are also a fashion statement.

You've probably seen OHV riders wearing sunglasses instead of goggles.  Not a good idea!  You really need the extra protection of googles when riding in an open OHV.  Sunglasses provide some but not enough protection.  Sunglasses might be OK if you are in a side-by-side with a windshield, but you should always wear goggles riding a dirt bike or ATV.  I always wear goggles even in a side-by-side.  If you need dark lenses, opt for shaded or light sensitive lenses for you goggles.  Or get goggles that will fit over your sunglasses, which is also a good option for folks who wear prescription glasses.  You always want to be able to clearly see where you are going!

Polarized sunglasses have lenses that filter out reflections from horizontal surfaces such as bodies of water, paved roads, and even the hood of your vehicle.  If you are driving on icy roads you might want to see those reflections so then you might want to wear non-polarized lenses.  Polarized lenses also affect how well you can see LCD screens making it difficult or impossible to read some phone and computer screens with them on.

Sunglass lenses are available in various colors.  Lens color is more than a fashion statement.  Green lenses  provide better contrast than gray lenses and transmit color accuracy better than brown lenses. Ideal for both sunny and low-light environments, green lenses have a way of reducing glare while brightening shadows. Blue and yellow both tend to distort color perception even though yellow can help sharpen images, hence their use by hunters and shooters.  Reflective silver lenses look cool but it is the base color underneath that will affect how you see.

Sunglasses do wear out.  Some signs of wear, such as scratches, damaged ear pieces, or missing nose pads are obvious but even the polarization as well as the tint will fade over time.  On average, sunglasses should be replaced about every two years, more frequently if wear them daily in a high UV environment.

Cost.  Sunglasses can cost as little as $1.25 (at Dollar Tree) and you can spend well over $200 for high end designer glasses.  Are the expensive sunglasses really worth the extra cost?  That is a very subjective question, one that only you can answer for your own situation.  If, like me, you have a tendency to lose to break your sunglasses often, less expensive ones will lessen the financial as well if not the emotional impact of frequent loss.  More expensive sunglasses are usually made of better materials and may provide a better fit and may have more features.  Generally speaking, the lower the cost of your lenses, the fewer features you have available.  Personally, I like to have several pairs of sunglasses in different places so they are always convenient when I need them.  I keep some on my dresser, in my car and truck, in my motorhome, in my boat, and in my motorcycle trailer.  Stocking all those places with designer glasses would cost me a fortune so I tend toward the less expensive glasses that I can also replace cheaply as often as needed.  I wear them when driving, when doing yard work, and when just relaxing outdoors.  I have recently started seeing ads on TV decrying the high cost of designer sunglasses.  One begins by saying it is ironic that the most expensive part of what you are wearing is also the most fragile, at which point he removes his companions designer sunglasses and easily snaps them in half!  But even their ''affordable'''sunglasses are more than $50 a pair! Guess it beats $200 a pair!

Prescription sunglasses.  If you normally wear eye glasses you might want to consider getting prescription sunglasses for outdoor use.  There are a couple of alternatives.  One is to opt for light darkening lenses on your regular prescription glasses.  The lenses will darken in just a few seconds when exposed to bright sunlight, making them pretty good for driving.  But they are slow to lighten again when you go inside, which can be a problem if you drive into a long tunnel where you need more light.  Clip-on or flip-up sunglasses can be worn over prescription glasses.  If they contact the lenses they can scratch or rub them so always be careful putting them on and off and make sure they don't press against the prescription lens.  Sometimes, if your prescription hasn't changed too much, you can have your old prescription glasses tinted to use as sunglasses when you get new glasses.

Sunglasses usually don't fog up because we usually aren't using them in the cold, damp environments that contribute to fogging (skiing might be an exception).  If, for any reason,  you encounter fogging you might protect them with anti-fog compounds used for off-road goggles.  One of the most effective and most popular is a brand named Cat Crap.  As unappealing as the name may be, the stuff really does work.  There are also a number of anti-fog sprays and anti-fog wipes that will help keep your lenses clear but I'm told it only lasts about half an hour.  Rubbing alcohol is also said to work.  Also detergents.  Anti-fog preparations work by changing the surface tension so water vapor doesn't condense on the lens.

Cleaning sunglasses.  Like all lenses, sunglasses should never be rubbed dry.  Your best bet is to wet the each lens, add a drop of liquid soap, clean the lens, rinse it, and dry it with a soft, clean cloth.  Paper towels are usually too coarse to safely clean lenses.  Facial tissue often contains lotions that can leave deposits that fog or streak.  Even some toilet tissue is coarse enough to scratch lenses or has lotions that leave streaks.  The safest thing to use is a lens cleaning cloth designed for that purpose.  Lots of people use handkerchiefs or shirt tails but they are too coarse and over time they will scratch and dull lenses.

Sometimes you can clear scratches from sunglasses to improve clarity, but often they are probably already nearing the end of their useful life by the time they get enough scratches to become cloudy.  I have used a 3-part plastic polish successfully on googles and motorcycle face shields but have not tried them on sunglasses.  The 3-part system uses progressively finer grits for removing scratches then polishing the lenses.  Sometimes the optical departments at places like Walmart offer lens cleaning services that might be worth trying.  However, the cost might be higher than replacing cheap sunglasses.

I can see clearly now!

A Trailer For Hauling Your Camping Gear

Do you need a trailer to haul your camping gear?  Well, maybe.  Depends on your camping style, how much gear you have, how many people are in your group, what kind of vehicle you have, where you are going. what kind of activities you will be involved in, and how long you are going for.  The larger your group, the more complex your activities, and the longer you plan to be gone, the more likely you will need room to haul more stuff.  You might also need extra supplies if your destination is very remote and you won't have reasonable access to additional supplies as needed.

If you normally go camping in a motorhome, camping trailer, or truck camper, you probably won't need a utility trailer to haul your camping gear.  You can usually stow everything you need in your rig.  But sometimes you may want to bring along more stuff than you have room for in your normal recreational vehicle.  Having more people than usual or going on a longer trip than usual typically requires bringing along more stuff.   In such cases or if you are a tent camper and don't have a large vehicle to transport your gear, you will probably want to consider buying or making a light-weight utility trailer to tote your stuff around.  Pickups, vans, and large SUVs might have enough capacity but ordinary passenger cars, especially the small, compact, fuel efficient ones we generally prefer for daily drivers, will probably need extra cargo carrying space.

Even if you are a tent camper you may or may not need a trailer to haul your camping gear.  If you drive a large SUV or a pickup truck you probably have all the room you need to transport your normal camping equipment.  Even a station wagon or a full-size sedan may be adequate.  However, in these days of steadily increasing fuel prices you may choose a smaller, more fuel-efficient vehicle for your daily driver.  Or if your family or regular camping group is large your gear might not fit in any vehicle, especially a smaller one.   If either is the case, you might need a small, light-weight trailer to transport your camping gear.  When I was a teen our family of 4 went camping in a '57 Hudson with sleeper seats and were quite comfortable for several days of travel and camping in and around Yellowstone Park and everything we needed fit comfortably in the trunk.  The same trip in a regular passenger car a year or so later required motel stops.

Some alternatives to a trailer might include a roof top carrier or hitch-mounted cargo rack or box.  If you have a vehicle with a roof rack you may be able to carry a lot of the bulky, lighter weight items like sleeping bags in a waterproof cargo bag secured to the roof rack. If you live in an area that gets little rain you might get way without covering your cargo, but whether you use a cargo carrier or a tarp it is still a good idea to cover the load to protect it from sunlight, wind, possible rain, and prying eyes.  Simply keeping things out of sight can provide a certain level of  "security by obscurity" and reduce thefts of opportunity.  Whenever you haul cargo outside your vehicle make sure it is securely anchored so it doesn't blow or bounce off during travel.  Avoid putting heavy items on roof racks.  Getting it up and down risks injury and having heavy loads up high can affect vehicle handling and could damage the roof.

A lightweight utility trailer isn't hard to come by.  Many home centers sell small trailers for home use and for transporting lawn mowers and other power yard equipment.  If you have a bent for do-it-yourself projects you can build your own trailer using trailer kits like those available at Harbor Freight.  They have kits for different size trailers.  A popular size is 48"x96", just right for a single sheet of 3/4" plywood to make the floor.  It is small enough and light enough to be pulled by a small vehicle yet large enough to carry almost all the camping gear you will need for the average family.  Flat bed trailers or utility trailers or even enclosed box trailers are all good possibilities.  What you choose will depend on your individual needs, budget, and availability.  Flat beds make it easy to load and unload wheeled toys.  Utility trailers help keep things secure in transit without having to tie them down.   You may be able to tarp both flat bed trailers and utility trailers to protect your gear against sun and rain.   Enclosed trailers provide the most security for your gear on the road and in camp and provide convenient extra protection against the weather.  You can often find small, inexpensive trailers for sale on craigslist.org.  I have used old tent trailers that were repurposed as motorcycle or utility trailers.  You might pick up an older tent trailer with a ruined tent pretty cheap (maybe even free!) and strip it down to make a utility trailer.

I have a camping trailer that started life as an Apache tent trailer.  Someone before me had completely gutted the little trailer to turn it into a utility trailer.  I actually got it for free on craigslist.  It needed a little work (including a LOT of cleaning and a new paint job to match our Jeep) and I upgraded from 10" wheels and tires to 12" for extra road clearance and an added safety margin.  One advantage to this particular trailer is that is has a clam-shell top that completely closes it during travel.  On one of our first trips we encountered very heavy rain.  So heavy there was about 2" of standing water on the freeway on a 6% grade!  Once out of the storm we pulled off the freeway and opened the clam-shell to access and mitigate the damage and were pleasantly surprised to find only 2 or 3 drops had gotten inside!  The clam-shell can even be locked for extra security.  It also gives us a convenience place to haul and store our camping equipment so it saves storage space in the garage and is always ready to go.

Packing your camping trailer may take some fore-thought and a little practice.    Basically you will want to load the heaviest components over the axle but you will need to maintain a certain amount of weight on the tongue to keep the connection secure and to avoid swaying.  Tongue weight for most small trailers should be in the range of 200-300 lbs but ultimately will depend on the overall trailer weight and how the load is distributed.   If there isn't enough tongue weight on the hitch (shoot for about 10% of the total loaded weight) the trailer may sway back and forth, kind of like the tail wagging the dog.  If there is too much weight on the tongue (more than about 15%) your vehicle may become less responsive, especially when turning and braking.  You may have to take your loaded trailer to a weigh station to find out how much it weighs.  You might be able to use a home bathroom scale to weigh the tongue, but use caution.  If it is too heavy for the scale you can damage the scale.  Trailer sway can be a serious problem.  My family and I have experienced at least two significant accidents due to excessive sway.  In one case the 28' toy hauler trailer  my son was pulling was too big and too heavy for the 1/2  ton pickup pulling it when it got caught in heavy crosswinds.  The other problem occurred when one of the bunk boards holding our sailboat broke, dumping the boat onto one of the fenders and crushing it down onto the tire so it created excessive drag on one side causing the trailer to sway.

Plastic tubs are a good way to pack and organize the things you put into your trailer.  Things like tents, sleeping bags, stoves, and camp chairs can usually be loaded in their own factory bags or even as is but cooking gear, provisions, linens, and clothing will be safer and easier to manage in plastic tubs.  I prefer translucent tubs so I can sort of see what is inside.  If you use opaque tubs you might want to label each one with what is inside to make it faster and easier to locate stuff in camp.

If you store your camping gear at home in your camping trailer be sure you remove perishable items between trips.  Putting perishables in a separate plastic tub makes this a lot easier.  Also make sure all your equipment is cleaned up before putting it away.  Left over food scraps will attract all kinds of pests, from microbes to raccoons and bears.  Microbes will turn scraps into nasty rotten messes and larger pests can do considerable damage to your gear and maybe even your trailer.  Bears have even been know to break into locked cars in search of food.  Animals in search of food may not be able to smell the difference between a few leftover crumbs and a whole sandwich, so cleaning everything up is critical!

Camping trailers can sometimes find additional uses in camp.  Once the gear has been unloaded you might put up a pipe frame to support a tarp over the top of an open trailer to provide a nice kind of pavilion to keep you out of the sun and rain and up off wet ground.  Some people even add sides or set up a free-standing tent in the trailer and use it as an off-the-ground shelter.   Not quite as complete as a tent trailer, but a step above sleeping on the ground.  You probably should not plan to cook in it, just as you normally would not cook in your tent, but it can make a safe and comfortable place to get out of the weather and for sleeping and to protect your personal gear.  Sometimes even an empty utility trailer makes a good playpen for younger children you might want to keep up off the ground and away from snakes and insects on the ground in many remote campgrounds.  You can install an awning on a box trailer to provide patio shade and protection from light rain in camp.  For an economy awning you might make your own using an inexpensive tarp and arms made from PVC pipe.  Similar canopies can be installed over the bed of open trailers.

If you use an open utility trailer you will want to tarp it to protect your gear against rain.  Having it tarped also provides a little bit of "security by obscurity" by keep your desirable items out of sight, reducing the chance of some passerby helping themselves to your property and helps minimize getting dust and dirt in your gear.  If you haven a enclosed trailer (like our little Apache trailer or a box trailer) you might even use the trailer for permanent storage at home.  Not only does that save space in your garage, shed, or basement, it keeps everything all packed and ready for your next trip.  Be sure you have a tongue lock or other security so it can't be easily stolen!

Some accessories you might want to add to your camping trailer might include a portable toilet (Portpotti) and a chuck box.  Portable toilets will give you comfortable sanitation where ever you go and a chuck box makes a good portable kitchen for use in camp.  A camping trailer may also give you room to carry extra tools you might need in camp or on the road.   I have a large, heavy-duty vinyl bag I use to carry firewood.  Firewood can also be carried in a box or even laid loose where ever there is extra room between items in your trailer, but having it in its own container keeps things cleaner and makes the wood easier to collect for your campfire.  Having a trailer may give you room to carry cots to make sleeping more comfortable.

Loading your trailer.  I talked a little bit a few paragraphs above about using plastic tubs to load and organize your camping trailer.  The other thing you will want to do is put the things you need to get to first when you get to camp where they are easily accessible.  Normally you will probably want get out your tent and camp chairs first, perhaps along with a canopy or dining fly for shade.  Sleeping bags should go into the tent once it is set up.  All your kitchen gear and supplies should be easy to get to because you may very well be more than ready for a good meal after your travels.  Lanterns and flashlights should be close at hand in case you arrive at your destination after dark.  Heavy tools usually find a good home somewhere near the bottom of things and often kind of out of the way since you probably won't be using them right away or often.   While placement for convenience is important, it should never override the need to load the trailer for correct balance and a proper tongue weight.d  Also make sure things are loaded so any shift during travel won't damage items or the trailer.

Used trailers can be a good option.  Few of us get to go camping as often as we would like and even personal utility trailers probably get little use so used trailers and likely to still have plenty of miles left in them.  Check out your local craigslist to look for bargains in your area.  Things to check will be tires, brakes (if so equipped), hitch, lights, safety chains, springs, an door/tailgate latches.  Tires will often look very good but may have ''aged out'', so check the date of manufacture.  Tires typically have a maximum usable life of around 6-10 years, depending on how they have been stored or protected.  If you are looking at box trailers, also look for any signs of leakage.  Check to make sure the floor is solid.  Used trailers might have been commercially made or homemade.  Homemade trailers can be very good trailers but you may want to pay special attention to how they are constructed.  A popular option for homemade utility trailers is to mount an old pick up bed on an axle.  The axle may be a trailer axle or an old car axle.  Old car axles are very sturdy but also add a lot of weight.  Commercial axles come in different weight ratings so make sure the axle is strong enough to handle the weight of your trailer and anything you plan to haul in it.  Most single axles are rated at 3500 lbs but you can find heavier duty models.  My custom made enclosed motorcycle trailer is on a single axle that has a 5500 lb rating.  You want to be sure whatever you buy will have the capacity you need (cubic feet of storage and weight rating) to handle whatever you need it to carry.  In most cases, almost any trailer is going to have more than enough capacity to haul all the camping equipment you need for the average family.  If you plan to haul ATVs or any other large, heavy pieces of equipment or have an unusually large family or regular camping group, you may need a larger trailer.  I once picked up an old 19'construction office trailer to haul camping equipment and dirt bikes.  It was big, ugly and heavy but it was cheap and it did the job.

Make sure the vehicle you use to tow your trailer is properly configured with a correct hitch for the trailer weight, has adequate power, tires, and suspension, and has appropriate connections for trailer lights and safety chains.  Trailer brakes may be required on heavier trailers, along with brake controllers on the tow vehicle.  Surge brakes are an alternative that provides self-contained brakes on moderate sized trailers.  Surge brakes use a special, articulated hitch on the tongue that pushes a rod into a brake master cylinder to apply the brakes on the trailer whenever the trailer pushes against the hitch as the tow vehicle slows or stops.

Small, light-weight trailers may or may not have to be licensed.  Some states required ALL trailers to be licensed, but some only require licenses on trailers over a certain loaded weight.  An unlicensed trailer may save you annual registration fees, but having it licensed may guard against theft or make it easier to identify and reclaim your trailer if it is stolen.  Normally if you are towing an unlicensed trailer with a licensed vehicle from the state of residence where the trailer license is not required, you will not need to have a license even a state where residents are required to license all trailers.  However, having the license might prevent you from getting pulled over from time to time when driving out of your state since local law enforcement might not know your home state regulations.  You may be able to defend against a traffic ticket but avoiding the potential problems in the first place might well be worth the modest cost of registering the trailer, even it isn't required in your home state.

Haul away!

Keeping Your Boat Cabin a Comfortable Temperature

Let's face it, we all like to be comfortable!

 If you have a climate controlled luxury yacht you can probably skip this post.   However, the rest of us might find some useful tips here for keeping our boat cabins a comfortable temperature.  The cabin temperature on smaller boats can be notoriously difficult to control.

It is often more difficult to maintain climate control on a boat than it is an RV.  Almost all RVs have some kind of furnace or heater for cold days and many have a roof A/C to keep it cool on hot days.  But boats, especially small boats like daysailers, have neither and, of course, open boats have none.   RVs usually have insulation and many small boat cabins have none.  Since boating is mostly a fair weather activity the lack of a heater usually isn't a problem but often keeping cool is.  Of course, heaters and A/Cs are not relevant on open boats, but controlling the climate inside any boat with a cabin can be an adventure in itself.  Climate control in open boats is pretty much an individual thing -- dress for (or stay out of) the weather.  However, you can add a bimini cover provide some shade against the summer sun for many boats and it might help keep the rain off.  If you need to keep warm, wear warmer clothes -- or head back to a warm clubhouse, tavern, cabin, or campfire on the shore.

Like any other inhabited area we would like our boat cabins to be a comfortable temperature.  Human beings are usually most comfortable when the air temperature is about 70-72F.  When it gets hotter we want a cooler environment; when it is colder we seek warmer places.  When it is hot outside we want our boat cabins to be cool.  When the weather is wet and cold we want a warm, dry place inside out of the cold, wind, and wet stuff.   Small boat cabins usually do a pretty good job of getting us out of the elements.  However, many times boat cabins are not well insulated making them more susceptible to outside temperatures.  Having the hull sit in the water often means a large part of the boat functions as a heat sink to absorb heat from inside the boat and makes it hard to keep it warm inside.  Uninsulated hulls transfer heat to the water quite efficiently.  On hot days that can be a real boon, but on colder days it means it is going to take more heat to keep the cabin warm than it would to maintain the temperature in an RV or a room of similar size.  Rubbing up or leaning against a cold fiberglass or metal hull in bed can really ruin your rest period!  Since boating is usually a mostly fair weather sport the most common temperature problem on boats is the cabins are usually too warm , so cooling a boat cabin is often more of a priority than heating.  However, an uninsulated hull can still be very uncomfortable to the touch, even on warm days. Rolling over against one on cold nights can be really chilling!

Because weight is almost always a significant factor for boats, they often lack any kind of insulation.  Many times you can add some insulation if you have direct access to the inside of the hull as you do any many small boats. Foam anti-fatigue mats are an easy way to insulate boat walls.  They are fairly light weight, easy to cut to shape, are flexible to fit curved surfaces, and can be simply secured with basic adhesives.  Dark gray or black are standard colors but you can also buy brightly colored tiles that might be more attractive.  They can be glued directly to the fiberglass or metal hull liner in many boats.  Applying them below the water line will be especially helpful in preventing heat loss through the hull to the water.  Having them above the water line will help keep unwanted heat out and desirable heat in.  Installed on the walls of the V-berth they give you a padded, insulated surface next to your bed, making it far more comfortable than pressing up against a cold (or hot!) uninsulated hull wall!  Using them on the floor also has anti-slip benefits.  Adding insulation can also reduce condensation on the inside of the hull and the foam pad is softer than the hull if you bump into it.  Make sure whatever you add doesn't significantly increase the displacement.  A few pounds won't affect most boats large enough to include any kind of enclosed cabin, but consider that even light weight insulation may add up more quickly than you expect if you are applying it to large spaces.  If the weight of your boat and normal gear and supplies is already close to its maximum safe displacement, be careful adding extra weight!  The cabins on some boats have an upholstered ceiling that helps minimize heat transfer in and out.  I have seen folks remove it for cosmetic purposes usually when it gets old and stained, but doing so ultimately allows more heat into the cabin in hot weather and more heat loss when it's cold.  If your boat lacks any kind of ceiling covering you might add some to make controlling the inside temperature a little easier.

A wind scoop can often be used with a ceiling hatch on just about any boat to capture any available breeze and direct it down into the cabin for ventilation and cooling.  There are even models that are omni-directional so they will work no matter which direction the wind is coming from.   When your boat is in motion there is usually enough apparent wind coming from the bow for a front-facing scoop to work well, but when moored or anchored you may have to adjust the scoop as the wind changes direction.  Remember to leave another hatch or window open so the incoming air has somewhere to go!  Otherwise you simply pressurize the cabin and you won't get any air movement inside.  Wind scoops work pretty well when the boat is in motion but unless you monitor them and realign them with the wind as necessary while anchored they will only work when facing the wind -- unless you have the omni-directional style which is generally more expensive and sometimes a little bulkier.

Sometimes you can keep a cabin cooler by protecting it from the sun with some kind of canopy or awning.   A simple tarp suspended over the cabin to shade the cabin and provide a shaded air buffer to keep it out of direct sunlight will help keep things cooler inside.  Simply draping a tarp over the cabin might help a little but may also conduct heat if it touches the cabin surface so having it a few inches away from the surface is better.  Using a reflective silver or white tarp will keep things cooler than using a dark blue or green tarp.  You can usually set up a "boom tent" on sailboats fairly easily using the boom when the mainsail isn't raised.  A boom tent can cool the cockpit as well as the cabin but is really only practical at anchor.  A more permanent cover called a "bimini" can be adapted to provide shade on many boats.  They are more practical on power boats because they get in the way of  the very necessary task of watching the sails on a sailboat.  Some creative owners have made biminis with clear panels so they get rain protection but can still see the sails.

Portals (windows) on boats are usually much smaller than windows on RVs and campers but they can still let in a lot of unwanted sunlight and heat on hot days.  If you find you are getting unwanted heat through windows, cover them with reflective film or even total blackout film or hang curtains over them to block the sunlight.  You might be surprised how much cooler your cabin will be on hot sunny days when you limit sunlight intrusion!  Of course, smaller openings also don't work as well to help cool things when needed.

On larger boats, you may have the option of installing an air conditioner to cool things down on hot days.  Air conditioners are generally too heavy and too bulky to be used on smaller boats plus you need a 120 volt generator or a solar system together with a large and heavy battery bank to power them.  I have seen examples of DIY boat A/C using residential window mount room air conditioners but I am not sure they will stand up to the rigors of a marine environment.  I also worry about the stress the weight and leverage of typical window air conditioners would put on cabin bulkheads that were not designed for that kind of loading and about the effects of humidity in a marine environment on the electrical components.  The weight of an air conditioner is of more concern on smaller boats where the added weight  will be more noticeable and affect displacement and handling more than it would on a  larger yacht.

Evaporative coolers sometimes used on RVs (and land-based structures) aren't going to work well on boats.   Evaporative cooler depend on rapid evaporation of water so they work best in dry climates.  They work very well on RVs used for desert camping but since boats are sitting in the water the humidity level in the air is usually pretty high and evaporative coolers only work well in low humidity.  Evaporative coolers only really work at a humidity of 50% or lower and work best below 25%.  Very unlikely to find humidity that low on a lake, river, or ocean.

Cooling fans.  Fans don't really cool, but by moving air they make you feel cooler by evaporating perspiration faster and carrying heat away from your body.  Sometimes fans can be used to remove hot air or bring in cooler air to make the interior more comfortable too.  Portable 12-volt and even self contained battery powered fans can be use in even the smallest of cabins to create a little air movement that can make a big difference in comfort.  Heck, even fanning your face with a hand fan or even a paper plate can help!  You can enhance the cooling affect of fans by spritzing your skin with water from a spray bottle.  However, any kind of evaporative cooling will be limited by the high humidity in most marine environments.  Spraying yourself with cool water when the humidity is already 90 or 100% may help cool you a little but you won't get the same evaporative cooling you would get at lower humidity.  Sprays or mist systems generally work well in desert climates but not so well near bodies of water or other places with high humidity.  Even so, the cool spray itself can feel pretty good.

Many smaller boat cabins lack any kind of heater.   Since boating is often a fair weather activity and weight is a serious factor for boats, it makes sense to leave off heavy fuel tanks and furnaces.  The human body generates about as much heat as a 100 watt bulb so just being in a small enclosed space (like the cabin on a daysailer) will usually result in the space warming up fairly quickly, especially if you have more people.  My wife and I usually find just the two us us keep the cabin of our Macgregor 25 sailboat comfortable on cool nights without any auxiliary heat.  I am sure we would need more heat if outside temperatures dropped near or below freezing.  I once had to open doors and windows of our home during winter temperatures in the teens in Utah when I had 20 or so people in my living room even with no heat on!  Cooking inside your boat will warm things up but you should never use a cooking stove just for heating and you must always provide sufficient ventilation.  Often the heat from cooking an evening meal together with body heat is sufficient if your boat isn't drafty.  If you regularly need yet more heat you should obtain an auxiliary heater that is approved for maritime applications.  If you have 120 volt power an electrical heater is an easy and usually cost effective way of warming things up.  Lacking electricity you will have to consider some kind of  marine rated fuel powered heater.  Alcohol is often recommended for marine applications because the liquid fuel does not explode and the fumes aren't heavier than air and won't accumulate in the bilge.  Propane heaters that use self-sealing disposable fuel cylinders might be an option but you will need to store extra cylinders somewhere outside the cabin.   See Safety Tips for Small Propane Bottles from Practical Sailor for more information.

Automotive heaters that run off engine coolant can assist in warming up an RV.  I even had one RV that used engine heat to pre-warm the hot water heater while driving.  However, since most boat motors use water from the outside for cooling, automotive type heaters that run off hot water from the cooling system are not practical for use on boats.  The coolant generally doesn't get hot enough to be very effective and the plumbing to support it would be overly complicated and add unwanted and unnecessary weight on a boat.

Hatches and portals should be appropriately positioned open or closed to help you maintain the desired cabin temperature.  On hot days you will want to keep things fairly open to allow ventilation to help with cooling.  On cold days you will usually want to keep things closed ("batten down the hatches") unless you are using some kind of heater or lights (lanterns) inside that could put off toxic fumes and consume oxygen, in which case it is essential to maintain adequate ventilation.  Open things link the companionway slide will allow a LOT of heat to escape, partially because of the large opening but also because of the location at the top of the cabin (remember:  heat rises!).

Since boating is usually a fair-weather activity, cooling is usually the most common problem to be solved.  Some days may start out cool, then get warmer as time passes.  Dressing in layers so you can strip down to a comfortable level as things warm up is a good practice.  You can also use spray bottle to create a mist to help cool your body.   As mentioned above, a wind scoop can often provide much needed air flow for cabin cooling.  The physical activity often required by a sailboat often helps keep sailors warm.  Sometimes engine heat from inboard motors will also provide additional comfort on power boats.  If you need more heat be sure to get a heater that is designed for indoor marine use.  Catalytic propane heaters used in cabins and campers might work, but be sure to maintain adequate ventilation and store the propane cylinders out in the cockpit or on the deck.

Stay warm and keep your cool!

Global Warming/Climate Change and Camping, RVing, and Boating

We are constantly hearing about the problems of global warming (now called climate change) along with strong admonitions to reduce or eliminate the use of fossil fuels to stop it.  As RVers, OHVers, boaters, or even campers, we may even be pressured by environmentalists to totally abandon our favorite pastimes.  The famous Sierra Club at one time had a written manifesto that called for the total elimination of ALL off road activity by the year 2000.  Thankfully, that didn't happen.  One thing it did accomplish was to alientate their own 4 wheel drive members into a completely separate club.

In recent years the common reference has been changed from "global warming"to "climate change".  Don't let that fool you.  One of the reasons was that there was a decided lack of verified scientific readings to support the idea of global warming.  In some cases it was proven that reported data had been falsified in an attempt to support the unsubstantiated global warming agenda of certain groups.  However, there is still a lot of purported evidence for real climate change.  Climate change is not a new phenomena.  Consider the known Ice Ages of the past.

There appears to be two camps when it comes to global warming/climate change:  believers and non-believers.  To be honest I have always been a bit of a skeptic, almost to the point of being grouped with the non-believers.  For one thing, I think it is quite arrogant of us as humans to believe we can overwhelm nature!  There is a certain amount of evidence that is repeatedly touted as proving we are at fault.  However, actual historic evidence shows that periodic global warming is the result of cosmological changes in our solar system and earth's position in it, things we can absolutely do nothing about!  Yes, it appears that global warming is a fact.  And no, human beings have not been definetively proven to be the primary cause of it!

I recently discovered some very interesting independent research that clarifies a lot of things for me.  It acknowledges global warming as a fact.  But is also points out it is a natural phenomenon and shows graphs of regular repetitions of global warming for at least the last 400,000 years, based on geology, ice cores, and tree rings.  Perhaps the most revealing fact I learned was that in every occurrence, including the current one, temperature increased BEFORE CO2 increased!   It would appear from the historical  (and current) evidence that global warming causes an increase in CO2 and not the other way around as frequently and repeatedly claimed in popular media, who wants us to believe WE are increasing CO2 and that is causing global warming.  Since the temperature increase preceded the CO2 increase, that doesn't add up.   In fact, it kind of puts a grand slam on current "greenhouse gas" theories!  So, what does that mean for us?  Maybe we need to gain a greater understanding of the whole "problem" before we implement knee-jerk "solutions" that will very likely be ineffective unless they are based on solid science.  In almost every case, legislative solutions to technical problems have failed miserably.

Given that periodic global warming/climate change is historic fact, we might better spend our time and resources determining how we should respond to it, not flailing about with ineffective attempts to change it that significantly affects global economy and our personal choices!  We can learn from geological records what to expect in sea level changes and from things like tree rings we can learn about weather patterns.  While we may not be able to alter what global warming does to the oceans and the weather we CAN take appropriate actions to protect ourselves as a civilization and a species (and as individuals), against the affects.   We should be looking into what happened in previous global warming periods and devising protocols to ensure our survival and continued safety and comfort.  That might mean abandoning ocean front properties and focusing on promoting crops that can survive temperature changes.

Does any of this mean we should ignore "green"and "clean air" initiatives?  No of course not!  We still have a responsibility to be good stewards over and respect our beautiful planet.   We still need clean air to breathe.  Whether or not we are creating dangerous greenhouse gases we need to behave responsibly and protect all of our natural resources, especially trying to conserve those that are not renewable.  It should give us a greater incentive to look beyond the commonly promoted theories and invest a little more time in digging deeper and exploring all the relevant facts.  Then we should do what we can to promote appropriate social and legal responses that are relevant to the true situation in which we find ourselves instead of blindly following the self-serving mandates of people with personal biases and agendas they want to impose on us.

The use of fossil fuels seems to be at the heart of the global warming problem.  Burning coal and petroleum products to power our civilization produces millions of tons of pollution every year.  Nuclear power is one alternative to fossil fuels.  The fear of how to handle nuclear waste has created a public resistance to nuclear power.  However, I saw a recent report that showed handling of nuclear wastes was extremely safe and yields far less risk to human beings and the environment than the by products of of fossil fuels that we current largely ignore.   Widespread use of nuclear power plants to generate cost effective electricity may well be what we need to make electric vehicles practical.  Another recent study even showed eliminating the use of fossil fuels would actually increase climate change!

The use of renewable energy sources versus fossil fuels definitely makes sense.  It took Mother Nature millions of years to produce the seemingly abundant coal and petroleum products so much of our society relies on.  We can't replace them quickly or easily.  The conditions that created them no longer exist.  Wind, solar, hydroelectric and even tidal power sources should continue to be explored and developed.   Consider this:  virtually ALL the energy we have ultimately came from the sun!  Coal and oil came from ancient vegetation that stored solar energy.  Wind and even hydroelectric power are the result of sunshine.  Even nuclear fuel for our power plants came from exploding stars, fortunately NOT the one we currently depend on for light and energy!

Am I going to get rid of my RV, boat, and OHVs or leave them idle because of global warming?  No, absolutely not!  Am I going to feel guilty about my campfire emitting CO2 into the atmosphere?  Don't think so.  Am I going to use appropriately sized campfires instead of raging bonfires when I go camping?  Of course.  Am I going to keep my RV and OHVs properly tuned and use the most environmentally friendly fuels I can?  You bet!  Am I going to support research, education, and legislation that properly addresses our appropriate response to global warming?  Every chance I get!

Just do it!

Risk Management for Campers, Boaters, and RVers

Just about every part of our lives involves some kind of risk management.  Whether it has to do with health, traffic, crime, or weather, there is always some risk associated with everything we do.  Some risks are acceptable, some are not.  Some people manage risks effectively, others seem overwhelmed by them.

Non-riders used to criticize the "risks" they thought we were taking by riding dirt bikes.   In actuality, the highest risks were driving the freeways to get to our riding areas, very much like the risks they took driving to work everyday!

Have you ever seen the 4-quadrant risk management chart?  That may seem like a trick question because there are more than 1 4-quadrant risk management charts around, with different charts designed to focus on different aspects of your life.  The one I've found most useful is not related to any particular business or endeavor.  It applies to evaluating ANY kind of risk.  The four quadrants are:  1) High risk/low frequency, 2) High risk/high frequency, 3) Low risk/high frequency. and 4) Low risk/low frequency, in order of decreasing risk

High risk/low frequency are those activities which we seldom do but have a high cost if something goes wrong,  This is where we are most likely to encounter problems because we don't face the situations often enough to develop good skills or procedures for handling them.  High risk/low frequency events often underlie serious failures even by highly trained professionals.

High risk/high frequency are those activities which do have a high cost of failure but we encounter them often enough to develop effective procedures and skills for dealing with them.  For that reason, they represent a lower risk than high risk/low frequency problems.

Low risk/high frequency activities are next in line.  Because they are low risk we don't have as much to lose, even if they are high frequency.  Plus the high frequency tends to give us experience in dealing better with these situations.

Low risk/low frequency activities are the lowest priority, simply because there isn't very much as stake and it isn't very likely to happen.  However, the low frequency may mean we are less likely to be adequately prepared to deal with these kinds of situations.

And, yes, there is a sort of a conflict between the ratings of high and low risk versus high and low frequency.  High risk/low frequency is more likely to cause us grief because the cost is high and our lack of familiarity with the situation significantly reduces our ability to handle things successfully.    While you might think the same logic should be applied to low risk/low frequency events, the combination of minimal cost and minimal exposure combine to give make this category of less concern.

I have a personal standard for risk measurement.  When evaluating any decision I ask myself if either the cost or probability of failure is high.  If either the cost of failure or the likelihood of failure high for a given choice, that choice should be discarded.  I figure that if the cost is high enough it doesn't matter how low the probability is, I don't want to take that chance  Likewise, if the likelihood of an unacceptable outcome is high, no matter how low the cost, it might not be a good choice.

Outdoor recreational activities, such as RVing, OHVing, boating, and camping,  like everything else we do, have some risk associated with them.  A lot of the risk of RVing, boating, and OHVing is associated with driving or operating our vehicles.  Risks of camping usually involve weather, accidents, or illness.  Regardless of what the risks are, there are always ways to mitigate the risks to minimize our chances of being injured or suffering a loss.   

Vehicle risks can be mitigated by proper maintenance, appropriate and legal use, adequate insurance, and using proper personal protective equipment.  

Camping risks can be avoided by careful planning, keeping eye on the weather, and through safe camping and campfire practices.   

Boating risks can be minimized by following regulations, having required safety equipment, and wearing appropriate Personal Flotation Devices (e.g., life jackets).  

Overall, the more we participate in a particular activity, the better prepared we are to deal with anything bad that may happen.  But, of course, doing some more frequently also exposes us to more opportunities for this to go wrong, especially if we aren't conscientious about doing things safely and correctly.  We always need to make sure we aren't developing bad habits.  ALWAYS follow appropriate safety procedures and obey laws, rules, and regulations to prevent accidents and avoid litigation,

For anything you chose to do, examine the potential risks and determine if they are acceptable, or if there is anything you can do to make them acceptable, before proceeding.

Stay safe!

Fire Pits for RVing, Camping, and Boating

Campfires are one of the best and most popular camping traditions.   Even boaters often go ashore to have a campfire on the beach.  Most places you will camp may already have a fire pit.  Developed campgrounds almost always one and many times you will find left over fire pits in dispersed camping areas built by previous users. It is almost always advantageous to use a previously used site when doing dispersed camping and is more friendly to the environment.  Having a ready-built fire pit in a previously used site saves a lot of time and effort and often you may see where other vehicles have already been parked on the most level part of the site.  Having a ready-made rock ring can save you from lugging lots of heavy rocks around to build your own.  Many campers bring their own portable fire pit with them for use where ever they go.

The rock ring fire pit is one of the most common forms of fire pit.   Easily constructed from loose rocks they are not only popular in dispersed camping but you will often find them in developed campgrounds.  If you need to build your own the process is a little tedious but well worth the effort.  Begin by clearing the ground where you will build your fire all the way down to the dirt.  Remove all flammable material such as twigs, branches, weeds, and roots.  Collect enough rocks to make a circle the size of the fire you want to build.  A fire pit with a 3' diameter is usually about right for most family or small group campfires.  If you are solo camping you might want a smaller one or, if you will have a large group around the campfire, make it bigger.  Usually something about 5-6' across is adequate for most groups.  Beyond that you're moving into the area of bonfires instead of campfires!  Bonfires should be reserved for special events for large groups and require extra preparation to make sure they don't get out of control.    For building a fire ring for a standard campfire you can use just about any size rocks that you can move by yourself.  I find that those 8" to 12" are about the right size for most fire pits.  If you use smaller rocks you may have to pile them up to form a little rock wall about 8" to 12" high.  Then scoop out the dirt from the middle of the fire pit to build a little embankment against the inside of the rocks to block drafts.  Before you light your fire be sure to clear the ground outside the rock ring of all flammable material for at least 5 all around.  Stack your fire wood outside the cleared area.  The cleared area helps prevent an accidental spreading of your fire and gives you a good place to sit to enjoy your fire.

If there are no rocks around, dig down a little bit and build a berm to make a fire pit.  You need something to define the fire area and contain and control the spread of hot ashes once the fire gets going.   A rock ring or berm also helps mitigate ground-level breezes that might have an adverse affect on your fire like making it hard to light or blowing embers that might ignite surrounding materials.

Metal fire rings are found in some developed campgrounds.  Sometimes they are as simple and mundane as a section cut from a 55 gallon steel drum.  Other, more decorative ones are formed from sturdy sheet metal and often have woodland or wildlife scenes cut into them so you can watch the flames dance behind the cutouts.  Watching the campfire is always enjoyable and the cutouts make it even more so.  You can purchase metal fire rings to bring along when boondocking, if you have room to carry them.  Some are even collapsible for easy storage and transport.

My favorite portable fire pit is an old washing machine tub.  We call it R2D2 (because of its squat round shape and the way the fire sparkles through the perforations like R2D2's lights) and have used them for decades after being introduced to one by a fellow dirt biker.  With their porcelain finish they are both easy to clean and very durable.  In fact, we've been using the same one in my dirt bike trailer for more than 40 years!  Most washing machine tubs have center tube where the agitator used to be.  Sometimes that gets in the way of putting wood in the fire but if you cut your wood the right size that isn't a problem.  I make use of the center tube by sliding it down onto a cut-off RV table post and using a 3-pronged portable table base for the post.  I cut the table post so the top of the tub is a comfortable height for cooking.  It also makes a nice space beneath the tub to warm toes on cold nights.   I bolted a pipe flange to a wire grill from an old BBQ to install the grill on the fire pit using the top of the agitator tube.  The perforations in the tub protect the fire from wind gusts yet allow sufficient circulation for a good burning fire.  At the end of the night I put a metal trash can lid on top.  When its time to pack up it is easy to dump out the ashes.  The holes in the washing machine tub flicker enchantingly when with the flames.   It is a bit large to haul around in the family car but it fits well along with our dirt bikes in our motorcycle trailer.  We like our R2D2 so well we put one in the fire pit in our picnic area by our house and anchored a second one in a little cove for a fire pit down by the McKenzie River behind our house.

If transportation space is an issue you can find collapsible fire pits.  They are often made of metal panels, sometimes wire mesh and sometimes solid sheet metal and can be folded flat so they take up little space in your car trunk or RV cabinet.

Gas fire pits are becoming more popular, especially with RVers.  They are clean, easy to transport, set up and light, and you only need a small propane cylinder to run them,  They may lack the fragrance of a wood fire but still provide the same warmth and ambiance, without the annoying smoke of some wood fires.  To put out the fire simply turn off the propane supply.  You can buy wood chips to sprinkle on some gas fire pits to add fragrance to the smoke and flavor to anything you cook over it.  You can run them off the propane tank on your RV using an Extend-A-Flow kit that taps into your RV propane system near the tank.  Sometimes you may still be able to use a gas fire pit during early stages of fire restrictions where real open campfires are prohibited.

As mentioned in the first paragraph, clear the ground of flammable material for 5' all around ANY campfire as a safety measure to make sure your campfire doesn't spread.  You should still clear the area around gas fire pits to prevent burning material dropped from items cooked over the campfire from igniting fire outside the fire pit.  Marshmallows seem to have a wondrous way of flaming up even when you are going for golden brown!  Also make sure there are no branches at least 10-15 feet overhead that might catch fire.  Also, be careful building fires under trees when there is snow.  The heat can melt snow on the branches and cause it to fall on the campfire -- or on you!

It can be fun (and around) in these pits!

PPE -- Personal Protective Equipment ( YES, again!)

I have written about Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) before.   I bring it up again because I see way too many people failing to use appropriate PPE for the recreational activities in which they are involved and often suffer unnecessary injuries because of it.  And now, with the COVID-19 situation, EVERYONE needs to be aware of and make use of appropriate PPE on a daily basis!  Also, as a volunteer firefighter, I am continually reminded of the absolute need to wear appropriate PPE for ANY activity.  The need in the fire service is pretty obvious and difficult to ignore.  It is way to easy to ignore proper PPE precautions when performing many routine tasks, like chopping firewood or building campfires.  I've seen too many dirt bike riders injured for lack of proper body armor and, quite honestly, have to admit having been guilty of it myself.  I once rode in just my jeans instead of my riding pants and knee pads and ended up with one leg bruised from ankle to knee for several weeks,  It wasn't supposed to be any kind of vigorous ride and I was in a bit of a hurry.  Bad mistake!  I came up over the crest of a little rise, the back wheel hit a rock and kicked out from under me and the motorcycle landed on my unprotected knee.  If I had a been wearing the knee braces I normally wear when riding, it would have been no big deal.  Since I had left them off, I ended up getting an injury that took weeks to heal. Never again!

Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is not just for sissies!  Many vocations and avocations have Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) that is peculiar to their specific needs.  Doctors and other heath care professionals wear face masks, eye protection, and latex gloves.  Firefighters wear heavy, fire-resistant "turn outs".  Road workers wear reflective vests or suits.  Football players wear helmets and pads.  Race car drivers wear helmets and fire-resistant suits.  OHV riders wear helmets, goggles, and other "body armor".  Boaters need personal flotation devices (life vests or belts).  Hey, you probably even use PPE in your kitchen at home -- in the form of hot pads or oven mitts -- or at least you should.

Some Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is required by law or by regulations in a particular sport.  Sometimes PPE is matter of choice.  However, it is called PERSONAL Protective Equipment because it protects your person, not so much because it is a personal choice.  In come cases, PPE is required by law or other safety regulations but proper PPE should always be considered and worn by anyone when possible.  Anyone involved in any activity that requires PPE must wear the designated equipment.  Anyone involved in any kind of activity that has any risk of personal injury should always wear proper PPE.  A thought that puts it in perspective for me:  when riding a dirt bike, its OK to put your head in a $10 helmet -- IF you have a $10 head!   Good helmets run at least $200-300. Yes, some PPE can be expensive, but always consider how expensive it might be NOT having proper PPE!  Medical bills and loss of income while disabled will usually be much higher than the cost of protection, to say nothing of pain and suffering!

There are laws in many jurisdictions that require OHV riders (at least those below a certain age) to wear helmets.   Use of other PPE by OHV riders is usually at the discretion of the rider.  Having been a dirt bike rider for about 40 years I can personally attest to the value of proper PPE on EVERY ride.  In addition to a helmet, every rider should wear goggles.  Other useful items include proper riding boots, jerseys, pants, gloves, knee pads, elbow pads, kidney belts, and chest protectors.  You might limit what PPE you wear while riding in a UTV or side-by-side to a helmet and goggles, but I strongly advise anyone riding a dirt bike or ATV to wear full body armor.  When you part company with your ride and enter into a durability contest with the dirt and rocks I guaranty you the dirt and rocks are going to win!  You will come out the loser even landing on grass, dirt, or sand,  Wearing proper body armor will mitigate many of the injuries you might experience.  I have some rather deep and nasty scratches on the back of my chest protector that would have sliced deep into my back had I not been wearing it when I fell into a rock pile or skidded on the pavement.

I have provided other posts that describe specific types of PPE for OHV riders.  Check out the follwing links:

     OHV Helmets and Goggles 

     OHV Riding Boots 

     OHV Riding Pants and Jerseys 

     OHV Jackets and Coats

     Additional OHV Body Armor

Water sports have their own unique PPE.  For the most part this consists of a Coast Guard Approved Personal Flotation Device (PFD), usually in the form of a life vest or life belt.  Most boats are also required to carry throwable floatation devices, such as a life preserver or throwable cushion.  If you are involved in boating on cold water, a wet suit or even a dry suit may be needed to protect you against hypothermia should you fall overboard.  You may not see regulations dictating cold water protection, but a little research into deaths from hypothermia for professional racers who fell in the water should quickly convince you of the true need. Standard boating rules require every boat to carry a life jacket or vest  for every person on board,  The law does not mandate they be worn at all times but common sense certainly does.  In some sailboat races, all crew are required to wear PFDs  all the time when the winds are above a certain speed  Some folks are campaigning for a similar rule for wearing wet or dry suits when the water is below a certain temperature.   Exposure to cancer-causing UV radiation in sunlight requires proper hats and sunscreen plus good sunglasses.  In my mind, wearing appropriate PPE for any situation is ALWAYS mandatory, if not by the rules, by common sense!

PPE for some common outdoor activities may be a little less well defined.   But that doesn't mean you should ignore proper safety measures.  For hiking, properly fitted boots are a basic requirement.  A lot of folks opt for lighter weight running shoes, but they lack the ankle support often needed when hiking.  Good hiking advice says to wear an appropriate sock system.  That's right, a system, not just a single pair of socks!  A strong, correctly sized hiking stick is also a good idea.  Even a good hat and appropriate sunglasses could be better thought of as PPE than a fashion statement.  Sturdy leather gloves and eye protection are needed for cutting and handling firewood.  Gloves and eye protection are a good idea when building and lighting campfires too,  A proper hat for protection from the sun, along with sunscreen, could be considered PPE for almost any outdoor activity.  Oven mitts or other sturdy hand protection should always be worn when cooking on a campfire.  Hey, even a swimsuit could be considered proper PPE for some aquatic activities!  Bicycle riders often ignore PPE, sometimes much to their dismay when they have an accident.  A bicycle helmet tops the list, followed by proper shoes, gloves, and riding shorts.  I like to wear a baseball cap under my riding helmet because my helmet doesn't have a visor to keep the sun out of my eyes.  Cowboy hats are common head wear for equestrian activities.  They provide pretty good protection from sun and even rain.  However, they do not provide impact protection if you are thrown or fall off your horse.  Did you knot that head injuries from equestrian accidents exceed those from motorcycle accidents?  There are fairy stylistic equestrian riding helmets you should consider.

Of course we are currently required by law in most places to wear a face mask due to COVID-19.   Anyone working with COVID patients, such as first responders and medical professionals, also wear latex gloves, goggles, and often a protective gown.  To some the precautions may seem excessive, but given the risks associated with COVID-19, they are appropriate.  I know a doctor who has personally treated more than 2000 COVID patients and remained free from infection, due to proper PPE and proper protocols, such as hand washing and disinfecting equipment and facilities.

And yes, I realize this is at least a second post on PPE.  But it is a topic that too many people tend to ignore and an occasional reminder is often worthwhile.

Be protected!

Log Splitting -- A Basic Camping and Survival Skill

Log splitting is a very useful skill for campers.  Even if you don't cut your own firewood you will probably need to split some pieces of commercial firewood to make kindling.  Sometimes chunks of commercial firewood might be bigger than you want to use in your campfire and you can split them down to any size you like.  If you do cut your own firewood, split logs dry more quickly and are easier to ignite in a campfire than whole logs.  You might want to split longer logs to make split rails for functional and decorative fencing.

Use of appropriate Personal Protective Equipment is always a good idea for any activity.  Log splitting is certainly no exception.  There are obvious risks and physical stresses you need to guard agains.  You should wear heavy leather gloves to protect your hands and goggles or safety glasses to protect your eyes against flying chips.  Prescription eye glasses or sunglasses might be better than nothing but are not designed to provide the true protection you get from safety glasses or goggles.  If you use a chainsaw to cut your firewood, you should also wear protective chaps and ear plugs.  Note, chainsaw chaps don't shut down electric chain saws like they do gasoline powered saws.  The chaps are designed to clog the chain and stop the engine.  Electric motors don't stop as long as there is power and the switch is on but chainsaw chaps might provide some reduction in the movement of the chain and give you  a little extra time to react before you cut off a leg!

For splitting kindling you may only need an axe or hatchet.  Place one end of the piece of wood you want to split on a stable solid surface (rock, wood, concrete, hard ground),  Use a small stick to hold the top end of the piece you're are splitting steady while your swing your axe or hatchet with the other hand to split it.  If you should miss and cut the end off the little stick you can easily replace it, unlike replacing your fingers if you should cut one or more off while holding the wood with them!   A good size for kindling is about 1" wide and 1/4" thick.  Pieces a little larger or smaller are just fine.

A maul is another great tool for heavy splitting.   Mauls have very heavy, fat heads.  They look a lot like an axe but they are not designed for cutting but are great for splitting.  The extra weight and the fat taper of the head slams into the wood and splits it apart.  The only downside to using  a maul for splitting is that it is very heavy and may be difficult for smaller people to use and more tiring for anyone.  The blade on a maul is not always sharp like an axe.  A maul will be overkill for splitting kindling but is very useful for splitting large logs. 

                                                           

I have seen wall-mounted kindling splitters that use leverage instead of pounding it with a big axe or hammer.  That might be less effort but I haven't found a good place to mount one on any of my RVs.  Might be nice for a cabin or country house!

Just came across another great way to split kindling.  It is called the kindling cracker.  You can buy them at Amazon, Home Depot, and many other places.  Just GOOGLE "Kindling Cracker".   You put the piece of wood you want to split in the top and hit it with a big hammer or back of an axe to drive it down onto the splitting wedge inside.  It is safer, faster, and easier than using an axe or hatchet.  It is probably too bulky to carry around when tent camping but you might find room for it in your RV.  Here is what it looks like:

                                                         

                                                              

When using it make sure your log will fit through the top ring.  If it has knots or flares out or is simply too tight it may get caught before it splits.   You always want a little free space to allow the log room to split.

Another handy tool for splitting kindling is a wood splitting auger.   They fit into your drill so you can use them in a cordless drill in camp.  The one I saw demonstrated had a reverse thread so you had to run the drill in reverse to get it to work.  A wood splitting auger and a cordless drill can make splitting kindling quick and easy.  Hand held augeers aren't recommended for splitting larger logs but can be a fast and safe way to split kindling.  There are larger version available for splitting large logs, some are designed to bolt onto a car or truck wheel to provide the power.  Exercise caution using devices like this.  Make sure the driving wheels are off the ground and the vehicle properly chocked before any use.   Here is an inexpensive examples on Amazon.com.    

                                         

For splitting larger logs a wedge is a useful addition to your tool set.   Wedges aren't usually as sharp as axes and they usually have a fatter head and they don't have handles.  The larger head both makes it easier to drive them with the back of an axe or a large hammer (sledge hammer) and also spreads the wood faster for better splitting.  Some wedges are a flat tapered shape similar to an axe head.  Others are conical.  Flat wedges will split wood along the point of the wedge.  Conical splitters are used in the center of logs to try to spit them into multiple pieces at once.  However, every log WILL split along the lines of least resistance so you won't always get multiple splits with one placement nor will the pieces be of equal size.  I have seen people use a large single-bladed axe as a wedge, but the taper isn't really optimal for splitting and you might damage the axe head or handle pounding on it.  Sometimes you might use a maul as splitting wedge but usually it is easier to just swing the maul as it was intended to be used.  Here is an example from Harbor Freight.

                                  

                         

A wooden glut is a fairly good substitute for an iron wedge.  A wooden glut is a wedge-shaped piece of wood.  Sometimes they are used to split rocks but can also be used to split logs that are too large o split with a hatchet or an axe alone.  Start with a short piece of hardwood about 3" in diameter.  Sharpen one end to make a flat, wedge-shaped point.  The other end should be square and flat.  Prepare the piece of wood you want to split by scoring a line all across it using your axe or hatchet.  Then drive the axe or hatchet blade into the scored line at one edge of the log so it begins to spread the log along the scored line.  Place the sharpened edge of the glut into the crack and drive it in as far is you can.  Then remove the axe or hatchet and move it to the other side of the glut.  Drive it in as far as you can and hammer the glut down again.  The log should start to split.  If not, keep repeating the process until it does.  Sometimes it is helpful to have more than one glut so you can use them side-by-side to speed splitting large logs.  Knowing this little trick might be helpful if you find yourself in a survival situation or if you simply forgot to bring your steel wedge with you on a camping trip.  Or if you need a bigger wedge than the one you brought along.  Try to use a harder wood for your glut than the wood you want to split.  But you can use the same wood if you have to.  It may just wear out faster.  If it is softer than the wood you are splitting it will probably crush or break instead of splitting the target.  A wooden glut is similar in size and shape to a splitting wedge made of steel.

                                

Whenever splitting, with a wedge (or glut), axe, or hatchet, try to take advantage of any existing cracks in the log.  Many, but certainly not all, pieces of wood will have existing cracks.  Even if they are tiny, they represent a weakness you can take advantage of.  Line up the pointed end of the wedge with the crack.  This makes splitting easier and can save you a bunch of work.  When working with large logs with no existing splits I usually try to make the first split about in the middle, then split each half in the middle again and again until I have them split down to the size I want.  Some folks like to split narrow pieces off the edges instead.  Try it both ways and do whatever works best for you.

A hydraulic log makes splitting a lot easier, especially if you are working with large logs or have a lot lots to split.  Make sure the pieces you want to split will fit into the log splitter between the wedge and the head of the hydraulic jack.  Sometimes, if they aren't TOO much longer than will fit you can notch the end that goes on the wedge to make room to get the log in place.  The hand operated log splitters I have used have two handles.  One moves the jack a small distance but increases the pressure.  This is useful for starting almost any split and pretty much essential for splitting pieces that are difficult to split.  The second handle doesn't apply as much force but mores the jack further with each stroke, speeding up the splitting process.  I often work both together to maximize splitting force and speed once it begins to split.  You will usually hear a distinct "crack" when the wood begins to split and will definitely notice a decrease of resistance on the handles.  I have found I usually need to go about 10 pumps on the handles after the initial split to push the pieces far enough apart that I can fully separate them by hand when taken out of the splitter.  Hand operated log splitters can be purchased for a few hundred dollars.  I believe I bought mine at Harbor Freight several years ago for between $100 and $200.   They are probably too big and heavy to cart along on camping trips, but very useful for preparing your fire wood at home.  If you have extra room in your vehicle you could take them camping but I wouldn't unless I expected to do a LOT of splitting!  Even when I haul firewood from the forest I usually wait until I get it home to split it.

A power log splitter is the ultimate tool if you are splitting lots of wood.  Power log splitters are hydraulic splitters powered by gasoline engines or electric motors instead of being hand operated.  Just put the log in place and press a button or pull the handle and the machine basically does the rest.  I've seen some commercial grade splitters that have an X shaped wedge that splits large logs into 4 pieces at once, greatly reducing splitting time and increasing productivity, but they are very, very expensive -- like around $18,000!  I've seen simpler, gasoline powered simple log splitters for home use starting around $1,000 plus or minus a hundred bucks or so at home centers.  They are fairly big and heavy and usually have wheels and are designed to be towed like a trailer.  You can also get less expensive electric powered log splitters.  Harbor Freight has one for under $500.  I wouldn't expect it to deliver the power or performance of the larger, gasoline powered models, but one would definitely make splitting a pile of firewood a lot faster and easier.

Like many other jobs, proper preparation is the key to success.   The main thing to do is to make sure your logs are cut to the right length before you begin.  Also trim off any branches or stubs that might interfere with their placement or movement on the splitter.  I have a piece of PVC pipe I have cut to proper length for my log splitter and (usually) use it to measure my cuts so the pieces are the right length.  If I forget to measure or somehow end up with some that are too long, I set them aside and trim them all at once after I've split the ones that fit.  Also, sometimes you will run into logs that are really hard to split.  I once watched my Dad try to split some old Madrone Pine with an axe and it just bounced off!  If you else all else fails you might try boring some holes in one end and lining up the edge of the wedge with the holes to get things started.  One large, center hole might be enough if you're using a conical wedge.

Some really knotty pieces of wood may be extremely difficult to split.  Avoid them if you can but if that is all you have, you might have to cut it into smaller pieces, making cuts where the knots are so you can split between the knots.  Sometimes a combination of strong steel wedges and fatter wooden gluts can be used in conjunction to coerce a particularly tough log to split.  Having a really big hammer may also help.  My dad had two "hammer"rules I really found useful:  1.  If it can't be fixed with a hammer it can't be fixed and 2.  Don't get mad at it, just get a bigger hammer!  Lacking a large hammer in a camp you might use a big piece of firewood or even a big rock.  Make sure to keep your fingers clear of where the log or rock strikes your target!

If you are going to split, split logs!