Spring Is Just Around The Corner -- Time To De-winterize Again

Today is March 6.  The first day of spring is about 2 weeks away.  Of course, what the calendar says and how the weather behaves are often two very different things.  A couple of years ago we got around 3'of snow in late March!  That being said, it is still time to start thinking about getting ready for your next season of RVing, OHVing, camping, and boating.

Unless you live the in sunbelt you will probably have put all your RVs, OHVs, boats, and camping gear in winter storage several months ago.  Hopefully you did that correctly, making sure everything was clean and properly serviced before being put into storage.  If so, getting it ready for service now should be pretty straightforward.  If not, you may be facing a lot of tedious, unpleasant and possible expensive surprises!  Failure to properly prepare things for storage can result it premature failure of many pieces of equipment.  Damp tents and sleeping bags can mildew and rot.  Perishable provisions can go bad and create a nasty mess.  Gasoline motors that were left with fuel in the fuel system may need expensive cleaning before the engines will run again.  Tools may have gotten damp and rusted.  Camp stoves and lanterns may need tune ups.

Regardless of the current status of your equipment, the sooner you inspect it, the sooner you can address any problems that might have developed and get them scheduled for repair.  If you put everything away correctly, preparation for the upcoming season should be pretty simple, mostly unpacking and inspecting things, updating expired provisions, and preparing motorized equipment for operation.  RVs and boats that were winterized to prevent freezing in cold climates will need to be purged of antifreeze and the water systems flushed and refilled for use this season.  All camping equipment should be carefully inspected as varmints can sometimes damage soft goods in storage and hard goods, like tools, may have rusted in damp climates.  Any damage should be promptly repaired.  Items beyond repair should be replaced.  Appliances, such as camp stoves and lanterns and in RVs and boats should be tested to ensure they are ready for use.  Spiders seem to have an affinity for propane and often build webs and nests inside the propane lines and burners.  They can sometimes be cleaned out with compressed air but often require a thorough brushing with a special tubing brush to remove them.  Most rusty tools and equipment can be cleaned and lubricated so they can be put back in service.  Some badly rusted joints may require treatment with penetrating oil or even heat from a blow torch to loosen them up again.  Surface rust can be removed by light sanding.  Dull tools should be sharpened.  Wooden handles on hammers, axes, and hatchets may need to be sanded and rubbed with linseed oil.  All your tools should be inventoried, inspected, and properly organized.

Getting an early start can help you deal with more difficult and expensive repairs more easily.  Having more time to work on things, order needed parts, or locate replacements will reduce the stress and allow you to spread the expense over more time before you need them for your first outing of the new season.  Having more time can let you shop around for the best prices on things you need.  I once paid about $3.00 for 1 or 2 cord clamps for the ties on my sleeping bags when I needed them right away for an outing.  After getting home I was able to stock up on 50 similar cord clamps off of ebay for about the same price! 

If you are like me, a lot of camping equipment may be getting kind of old, but still useful.  Older equipment is sometimes difficult to find parts for.  One of the first places I look for obsolete parts is ebay.com; craigslist,com is another pretty good option.  You might find good used equipment at garage sales, thrift stores, and second hand stores that can serve as replacements or as donors to repair what you have when new replacement parts are no longer available.  How camping equipment is used is both good news and bad news.  The good news is that when we find it, it is often still in good shape.  The bad news is most of us never get to use it enough (which is why we can still find older stuff in good shape!).  Sometimes I would rather buy an older piece of equipment in good condition that even a brand new one.  One prime example that comes to mind is the carrying cases for Coleman lanterns.  The older ones were made of metal and had a nice square shape that fit well into storage compartments.  The newer ones are made of plastic and are kind of bulky and have a strange, barrel shape that doesn't fit anywhere well.  The plastic may actually provide more shock protection and are more resilient to dents and corrosion, but I still prefer the older ones.

After a winter away from outdoor activities, getting our stuff ready to use can be kind of fun and cathartic.  Sometimes we may have even forgotten about some of  the pieces of equipment or the tools we have in our kit.  Going through everything and inspecting it refreshes our memories of what we have and where it is so we can find it when we need it during this new season of fun.  So spring preparation can have a lot of useful benefits as well as being kind of fun after our winter hiatus.  Sometimes rediscovering forgotten equipment is almost like getting extra Christmas presents!

Spring also means the beginning of Daylight Savings Time in most US states.  "Spring ahead; fall back" is a good way to remember which way to change the clocks.  I kind of like the "fall back" change better as it yields an extra hour of sleep instead of stealing one!  Almost all of us have forgotten the change the clocks at least once and showed up an our late or an hour early for a meeting or an appointment. 

 Spring?  Well, maybe!  Here in Oregon we got a Winter Storm Alert on the first day of spring, predicting up to 48" of new snow above 3000'.  Some friends in Utah and California reported similar weather anomalies.  Some areas have around 170% of normal snow pack.  Utah is up to 201%!  The extra snow is certainly good news given the long drought we have been experiencing, but it will probably take several years of above normal snow fall before things begin to get back to "normal".  In the mean time, we still need to get ready for the upcoming season.

Spring into spring cleaning!

Off Road Riding Areas

What make a good off road riding area?  Actually there are many different type of terrain that can provide interesting off road riding experiences.  Here are some common factors to think about.  Some basic things to consider include what type of activity you will be doing (dirt bikes, ATVs, horseback riding, etc.), your level of experience (you will enjoy more difficult and challenging terrain only after you are experienced), weather (be sure to dress appropriately), and number and level of experience of riders in your group, how much time you have (limited travel time means you need a place close to home).

1.  Access to riding trails and/or open areas.  The next big necessary feature is access to good riding trails or open riding areas.  The most enjoyable outings we had in southern California were in places that provide both good trails and open riding areas.  What makes up a good trail depends on what you are riding, your level of expertise, and your expectations.  I like trail systems that provide a variety of riding experiences, some for young or novice riders and some with more technical challenges for more experienced folks.  Rolling hills can provide hours of moderate level entertainment.  Open riding areas usually offer plenty of fairly flat places for novices to learn and may often include rolling hills and sometimes even more aggressive hill climbs and technical challenges.

2.  Reasonable access to necessary resources.  The definition of both ''reasonable access'' and '' necessary resources'' will depend on the user.  For some being within an hour or so of a small town where you can get necessary supplies is enough while some folks might consider full RV hookups a must (please note that places with full RV hookups seldom have good access to riding areas!).  I had a friend whose idea of roughing it was having to ring twice for room service!

3.  Plenty of room to camp.  How much room you need will depend on the size of your group.  Solo riders  or small families need only a single campsite.  Larger groups need room for multiple individual areas and often include motorhomes, camping trailers, and tent campers.  Our Desert Rat group usually staked out a nice big area that could accommodate about a dozen rigs arranged around a central fire pit like the circling of a pioneer wagon train.

4.  Appropriate terrain for your riding style.   Options might include trails, hills, beaches, sand washes, and open riding areas.  Some areas may have trails specifically designed for specialized learning, such as beginner's trails and even rock crawler practice tracks.

5.  Access to emergency services.  We all hope we never need emergency services when we are riding our OHVs, but stuff happens.  There are accidents.  Vehicles break down.  People get sick or injured.  We run out of provisions.  Most off road riding areas will be some distance from the emergency services and stores we are used to at home.  Invest a little time familiarizing yourself with where and how to get emergency services when you go off road.  Know where you have to go to get a signal for your cell phone.  Know where to find or contact rangers or law enforcement.  We were pleased that the California City Police Department posted signs all over the open riding areas near California City with their direct phone number.  Dialing 911 in that area would connect you to the California Highway Patrol a couple of hundred miles away.  Emergency response times directly from California City were much faster.  I had a number of personal encounters with California City Police, both out on the trails and when assisting other users to get help in town and am pleased to say they were always professional, helpful, and friendly.  They even sponsored volunteer Desert Indcident Response Teams to aid lost or injured riders.

6.  Appropriate weather.   For most OHV outings we want mild temperatures and sunny skies.  For snowmobiling we need snow on the ground but not too much of it still falling.  Rain can dampen more than spirits when you are riding a dirt bike or ATV but is probably less of a problem if you have a covered side-by-side.  Most of our family outings in southern California were to parts of the Mojave Desert but sometimes, in the hottest part of the summer, we would head a little further up into the mountains to escape the heat.  We once left the valley floor at 5:00 am when it was over 100F and arrived at our campground at over 9000 feet elevation a few hours later and needed winter coats!  Desert trails in the summer are very hot and very dusty.  Forest trails were a lot more pleasant, with little dust and even some shady portions to ride through.

7.  Not TOO far from home.   Ultimately you when you go off roading you want to spend as much time as possible riding you OHV, not getting there and getting back.  But given the nature of off roading, you should probably count on at least some driving.  Many of our favorite riding areas were more than 150 miles from our home!  That meant we generally only went there on 3-day weekends or other extended outings.  You may want to find someplace closer to home where you can swing by for a quick weekend or even after work ride.  Places for short outings don't have to have all the neat features you might seek for longer excursions, but they can still be fun.  After all, dirt is dirt!

Check with local land managers like the US Forest Service, your state Forest Service, or, in Western States, the Bureau of Land Management to learn about riding areas within their jurisdictions.  Local, state, and regional OHV clubs may also be able to provide some suggestions.  You should be able to get some good ideas from the Internet.  Do an online search for ''off road riding areas near me''  You may be surprised at the resources that pop up!  Personally I prefer getting recommendations from other riders so I can learn more details about prospective areas before investing the time and fuel to go there.

Never assume it is OK to ride just because an area is remote and undeveloped.   Many such areas are private property and you would be trespassing.  Trespassers can be arrested and could face stiff fines and maybe even jail time.  Many desolate remote areas were once used for mining and you may encounter loose tailing piles and dangerous pits that can lead to accidents that damage your equipment and your body!  You may even see well used trails that trespass on private property.  Just because others are blatantly trespassing doesn't make it OK, and the useage could be from the owner or other authorized users.  If you encounter a NO TRESSPASSING or PRIVATE PROPERTY sign, stop and turn around immediately unless you have specific written permission from the owner to be there.  Written permission is usually best, in case you have to prove your right to there to law enforcement.

While we are on the subject of riding areas, we need to cover appropriate behavior.  Off road enthusiasts get blamed frequently and often erroneously for trashing off road staging areas.  I have personally been involved in a number of clean up projects, both as an organizer and a worker, and in literally every case, most of the trash we collected was from illegal dumping by nearby residents, not stuff left behind by riders.  In one case we filled a 40 yard dumpster with the junk we gathered up, which included sofas, toilets, TVs, and car parts -- not stuff anyone hauls around on their dirt bikes or ATVs!  In talking with BLM land managers in southern California and Utah I confirmed that our experience was typical.  Very little if any of the refuse collected on clean up projects is the result of off road usage.  That being said, we should still do our part to take care of the steadily diminishing riding areas we have.  Always clean up after yourself.  The Desert Rat off road group I was part of in southern California always put in some time policing the area around our camp sites and staging areas to clean up any wayward trash before departing.  It only takes 15-20 minutes to make a good pass around your campsite picking up trash and it will payoff in keeping it nice for the next visitor -- which could be you!  Sometimes we had to clean up the area when we arrived because others had left it a mess.  Another important part of appropriate behavior is complying with rules.  We may not always agree with or understand certain rather oppressive rules but blatantly defying them only strengthens the opposition and leads to even more oppressive rules and sometimes complete closure of riding areas.  When you encounter offensive rules, contact the relevant land manager to express your opposition and find out if there is any legitimate reason for the rules.  Believe it or not, land managers are tasked with actually managing the land under their jurisdiction and that means supporting all appropriate uses, not just keeping people off of it!  I have generally been very pleased with the support I have seen from US Forest Service rangers, BLM managers, and California State OHV park rangers.  I once had to coordinate a clean up project with a BLM manager whose title included CONSERVATION so I was a little intimidated to start with.  He turned out to be very helpful and surprisingly supportive of our off road activities.  He even directed the leader of an environmental group at a college near our riding area to contact me for permission to participate in our event.  It was interesting seeing off-roaders and environmentalists working side by side for a common goal.  I think both groups were kind of surprised to learn the other group was made of good people.

You will usually find some popular riding areas within a reasonable drive of almost every major population center, at least in the Western states.  These places typically are easy to find and easy to get to.  In most cases they will include trails for a variety of riding styles and skill levels.  About the only downside is there will usually be a lot of other riders unless you go during some ''off'' time, like week days or during bad weather.  Sometimes having other riders around is a good thing.  They can be a useful source of information and even help if you need it.  Just observing them can be both educational and entertaining.  There are also more remote and less used riding areas that can be a lot of fun.  If you prefer solitude when camping, these might be a better choice for you.  Just know that if if anything happens (accident, illness, injury, breakdown) you will likely be on your own for at least a while.

When you find a good riding area should you stick with it?  The answer is a definite maybe!  There are distinct advantages to riding in a familiar setting.  You aren't likely to get lost. You will know how long it will take to reach various familiar destinations so you can plan your rides efficiently.  Riding familiar territory is fun and can feel comfortable.  It is a good place to train new additions to your riding group, whether be be biologically related to you or not.   I had been the "new kid" for so long I was surprised when on one outing I discovered I was the only ''old timer'' in our group of about 6 riders.  However, exploring new trails has a very strong appeal of it's own.  New trails can yield new challenges that help you extend your skills.  New trails let you experience different opportunities to test your skills and your equipment and enjoy new scenery.  New trails lead to new destinations and often each destination has its own set of desirable attributes and advantages.  Match your choice with your wants and needs for each outing.  If you are bringing new riders you might give a preference to familiar locations where you can share your knowledge and expertise.  If you are looking for increased excitement and new experiences, consider new riding areas.  I found it a lot of fun to explore new areas with someone who had been there before.

Only you can decide what  is a good off road riding area for you. 

Nylon Webbing for OHVing, RVing, Camping, and Boating

Nylon webbing is useful for OHVing, Rving, camping, and boating.  It is light weight but very strong.  Typical 1" nylon webbing can be rated as high as 4,000 lbs.  It is available in a variety of colors so you can choose a color you like and can use different colors for different applications.  Different brands, sizes, and qualities of webbing may have different strength ratings so be sure to choose webbing that is sufficiently strong for your application.  1" webbing is often used for tie downs and load-securing ratchets straps.  You will also see heavier webbing used for tow straps, snatch straps, and heavy-duty ratchet straps.  I use 2 1/2" ratchet straps to secure my 25' sailboat to its trailer.

Most tie downs for OHVs are made of nylon webbing.   They may have simple friction catches or ratchets.  Simple catches are usually appropriate for dirt bikes and ATVs where ratchet straps may over-compress and damage the suspension while tied down if over tightened.  Tie downs come with "S" hooks on both ends to easily attach them to anchor points.  You can also loop the webbing around larger contact points and run the webbing back through the "S" hook if needed.  To avoid marring the surface of handle bars you can get "soft shackles" which are nylon web  that wraps around the handle bars and you attach the "S"hooks to loops on the end.  Some higher end tie downs come with their own built in soft shackles.  Strong 1" nylon straps, even your regular tie downs, make good tow straps for dirt bikes and most ATVs.  Side-by-sides may require a sturdier tow or snatch strap.  Dune buggies, Jeeps, and other larger 4x4s will definitely need an appropriately sized tow strap, tow rope, or tow chain.

Many RVs have roof racks to carry additional cargo.  Whenever you put something up on the roof of your RV you want to make sure it is secure.  Nylon ratchet straps are a good way to do this, just don't over-tighten them or you may damage the roof rack, the roof, or the load.  Here again, 1"straps are usually more than adequate.

Ratchet straps normally used to secure loads on pickups and utility trailers are usually 1"straps.  Pay attention to the rated strength when you purchase ratchet straps.  The rating takes into consideration all the components:  the nylon strap, the stitching, the hooks, and the hardware.  If you cut or break the strap you may able to repair it if you are comfortable doing the necessary sewing.  Choose replacement webbing that is at least as strong as the original and used appropriately sized UV resistant thread and a box stitch for webbing to secure the webbing to hooks and anchor points.  You can purchase bulk webbing online or at most fabric stores.  I get mine from a discount store for just ten cents foot, much less than even buying it direct from the factory!

A fairly new and convenient invention are self-storing ratchet straps.  As you might expect, they are a bit more expensive than regular ratchet straps but are spring loaded to take up the slack for you instead of having to pull it all through the hub of the ratchet.  I haven't used them yet, but the reviews I have seen have been pretty favorable.  I suspect the mechanisms will be slightly heavier than ordinary ratchet mechanisms and might get in the way in some tight applications.

Campers find nylons straps useful for securing tents, sleeping bags and back packs.  Many bags for tents and sleeping bags even come with nylon straps sewn to the bags for convenience but you can add your own or use free-standing nylon straps anytime.  You can buy straps with buckles or just tie them around your bundle.  Buckles are usually easier to fasten and unfasten and allow the straps to lie flat.

I use nylon webbing for sail ties on my sailboat.  I use different colors for different length sail ties to make it easier to quickly locate the right one for each position for securing the mainsail to the boom for temporary storage.  Sail ties an also be used to tame excess halyards and dock lines and the secure loads on deck and in the cabin and storage compartments.  Sail ties have a loop in one end, usually made with a twist to make it easier to get your hand in.  Normally they do not have an metal hooks because those could chafe and damage sails and sail covers.  You can thread the loose end through the loop to pull the strap tight around the sail, then tie it off securely.

As mentioned above, I use 2 1/2" ratchet straps to secure my 25' sailboat to its trailer.  They hold it down nicely and the wider straps spread the load to avoid excess pressure on point of contact with the fiberglass hull.  If you use ratchet straps to tie down your boat, make sure you don't crank them down too tight.  It is too easy to put enough tension on them to crack fiberglass or dent aluminum hulls.  I once noticed tiny stress cracks forming under the heavy duty straps on my sailboat.

As a volunteer firefighter I have roll of 1" nylon webbing in one of the pockets of my turn out gear.  Just about all firefighters do.  We can use the webbing to help move an injured or unconscious victim, to lift tools up a ladder, or even to help us make an emergency escape out a window.

Nylon webbing or straps is not usually used for guy lines for tents or awnings but it can be.   It is often stronger than most of the light weight ropes usually used in such applications.  It also has the advantage of being wider and more easily seen so you aren't as likely to run into them or trip over them.  You might find ratchet straps useful as guy lines on really large, heavy tents.  On occasion I have used ratchet straps to secure the awning on my motorcycle trailer.  The ratchet straps allow me to easily pull the awning taught.  If you do use ratchet straps in this way, take care not to over-tighten them as they can easily damage the awning or attachment hardware.  The only possible downside I see to using straps as guy lines is they might flutter in the wind, which can be annoying and the vibration can sometimes cause them to loosen.

Webbing used to used a lot on aluminum-framed camp chairs.   Most camp chairs these days are bag chairs with cloth seating and backrests but you can still find aluminum-framed chairs here and there.  The webbing strips are usually about 2-2 1/2" wide and made of some kind of fiberglass or plastic material, not usually the kind of heavy duty nylon you find in tie downs and ratchet straps.  If you have any of these old chairs you might still be able to get replacement web kits for them.  I have even seen kits on amazon.com. In a pinch you might be able to re-web your chairs with sturdy nylon webbing and they would probably last a very long time.  It would make the chairs a bit heavier and they might be warmer to sit in than the original webbing.  That might be nice in cold weather but less comfortable on most warm summer days in camp.

Good web to get caught in!

Trash Bags for RVing, Camping, and Boating

Trash can be a problem when RVing, Camping, or Boating.   A lot of our camping food and supplies comes in disposable containers that often generate even more trash than we normally do at home.  Paper and plastic cups, plates, and utensils are very convenient for camping but do add up to more trash to take care of.   At home we just toss all our trash into the nearest wastebasket, which gets dumped into the trash can, and picked up by the waste management company at the street every week.  In camp or on a boat we have to collect our trash and store it for later disposal.   Some campgrounds and marinas have dumpsters you can put your trash in but you will have to pack it out when you are boondocking or camping in a primitive camp site.  Very few RVs or boats and no tents I've ever seen have any built in provisions for collecting or storing trash.  So trash bags area the obvious solution, even if you bring along a wastebasket -- trash bags collect nasty stuff that can be hard to clean from waste baskets.  'Pack it in, pack it out' is one of the original tenets of back country travel.  It is something everyone who participates in remote outdoor activities should live by.  Trash bags make that easier.

My brother once observed that trash bags are the perfect consumer product:  people buy them just to throw them away -- and then buy more!

A lot, but not all trash can be safely disposed of in campfires.  Pressurized containers, batteries, and even tin cans should not be put in campfires.  Aluminum cans may burn up, but do you really want to breathe vaporized aluminum in the smoke?  I can't imagine that doing anything good for lungs!  And every can you toss in the fire means you are throwing away that 10 cent deposit!  Recycling aluminium cans can be tedious, but it can we worth it.  A group who collected aluminum cans after the Holiday Farm Fire in Oregon amassed more than $25,000 in less than a year to aid victims of the fire.  The bulk can be reduced by crushing the cans but some recycling places only accept uncrushed cans.  If you take your recycling to where it is weighed, crushed cans are OK.  Burning paper plates is usually OK and even burning styrofoam and plastic utensils isn't all that bad an idea and the more you can burn the less you have to hang onto and transport home.

Of course, if you have room, you can bring along a convenient sized waste basket or trash can to collect trash during your outing.  But sometimes that isn't very convenient because it takes up so much room in your vehicle.  A handy alternative for use in RVs, campers, and boats is a plastic bag holder that an be hung on a cabinet door or even a picnic table.  It makes an easy, readily available place to deposit refuse for future disposal in a dumpster or your home trash can.  These plastic bag holders are usually designed to use the regular plastic bags that we bring our groceries and other items home in, giving us a good opportunity to recycle those pesky plastic bags.  Even if you use a wastebasket it is a good idea to line it with a trash bag.  It makes it a lot easier to dispose of the trash and minimizes having to clean the waste basket.  Trash bags can be easily tied off to contain odors and minimize unwanted spills.

Grocery bags are sometime the right size for small waste baskets and those little plastic trash bag holders that fasten onto cabinet doors  but you will probably need larger, commercial trash bags for kitchen-size units.  There are typically two styles:  draw string and the kind where you have to tie the corners together to close the bag.   Drawstring bags are obviously more convenient but usually cost a little more.  Kitchen bags are usually 13 gallon capacity.  Regardless of the style of bag you will find different qualities and strengths depending on brand and price.  The better bags cost more of course but are not as likely to tear and dump your nasty trash all over the floor or the trail and your feet!  If you are lucky, your bags will fit your kitchen-sized waste basket snugly.  If they are a little small they can usually be stretched.  Take care stretching them.  If there are any sharp corners or edges on the can, put the bag over them first to avoid tearing the bag if you try to stretch it over sharp spots.  If they are too big, gather the excess on one side and twist it about 6 times and tuck the twist up under the edge of now snug top of the bag.  Kitchen trash bags are usually strong enough to handle normal kitchen trash but you may need extra strong bags or double them up if you have extra heavy trash like bottles or lots of wet food waste.  Double up bags for heavy loads.  You never want your trash bag to tear and drop stuff all over the place, especially if there is a lot of wet, heavy, nasty garbage!

Draw-string bag are easy to close and can be re-opened if you need to add something.  There is a draw-string (usually a brightly colored strip of plastic, orange or yellow are the ones I've seen) inside the top seam of the bag.  Look for half moon shaped cutouts an each side of the top of the bag to grasp the draw-string and pull it tight to close the bag.  These draw-strings are usually about the same strength as the bag itself and should be adequate to pull it pretty tightly closed and maybe even strong enough to use as handles to carry it, but don't pull too hard or use them to carry really heavy bags or you could tear them.

Handle-close bags are a little more difficult to close and, depending on how tight you tie the knots, can be difficult or even impossible to re-open.  You need to leave a little extra room at the top of the bag in order to have enough bag to tie.  Grab the top of the bag on opposite sides, pull tight, put a few twist in each side to roll the bag  corners into a kind of rope shape, then tie the two ends together.  Use just a single over-hand knot if you think you will need to re-open the bag.  For permanent closure (for transport and disposal) tie a second knot. then grab the remaining ends or corners and tie them together with a double knot.  Tying up all four corners keeps the bag more secure and reduces the chance of spills.

You may want to set up separate collections bags for trash and recyclables.  It is kind of nice to get back that 10 cent deposit on every aluminum can and plastic water bottle and its better for the environment.  Using separate bags lets you easily take your combustible trash to burn in the campfire or put in dumpster.  Be careful not to burn bags with large amounts of rotting food that might create a nasty smell around the campfire and avoid burning plastics as they can create toxic fumes that could make you sick.  Never put aerosol cans in the campfire as they can explode sending shrapnel and burning embers all over the place.  Tin cans won't burn, just accumulate in and mess up the fire pit.  Some with glass bottles.  Only put combustible material in the campfire.

RV stores often sell devices to store grocery bags for later use.   I have tried both hard plastic containers and soft cloth ones and both have served well.  You can usually stuff new bags into the top and pull bags out the bottom to use.  The plastic trash bag holders are often designed specifically to hold grocery bags neatly and you will seldom fit enough trash into a grocery bag to overload it or make it too heavy to easily carry.  The bags are originally designed to carry fairly heavy loads of groceries.

The plastic bags retailers use to corral our purchases are often a convenient size for trash collection during our outings. And it is a nice way to get a little extra use out them and even save a little money and avoid adding even more trash bags to the land fill.  However, if you have a larger wastebasket in your RV or camper you will probably need kitchen size (13 gallon) trash bags.  I prefer the drawstring style over the handle style.  They are easier to close and can be reopened if you have a last minute addition or two.

Kitchen sized bags are often available with some kind of scent to offset bad odors in the trash.  Whether or not it is worth any extra cost is up to you.  You may be able to spray ordinary trash bags and containers with air freshner or Fabreze as an alternative.  Scented bags might be helpful if you frequently have to deal with smelly trash but probably aren't necessary for ordinary waste like packaging.

Lawn or contractor trash bags come in larger sizes, usually about 30 gallons.  They too can be purchased with and without drawstrings.  The heavier plastic of contractor bags handles larger loads and is a good place to collect and store trash until you can dispose of it properly in a dumpster or your home trash can.  I prefer the drawstring bags because they can be easily opened and closed to add trash throughout your outing.  Lawn and contractor trash bags are usually black but can be found in yellow and orange and sometimes other colors.  The yellow and orange ones can be used for emergency signals and are a little more attractive if you have to use them for emergency rain ponchos.  It usually isn't practical to bring along large trash cans when RVing, camping, or boating but you can get folding trash bag holders that are easy to transport and hold your bags open for easy use, giving you a large trash container in camp.  Years ago I made my own out of the framework of an old bag chair.

Large trash bags can be used as emergency rain ponchos.  Just cut a slit in the middle of the bottom and one in each bottom corner.  The middle slit goes over your head and the corner slits let you get your hands out if you need to get hold of something.   

You might cut a large trash bag open to make a small tarp to cover equipment you leave outside during a surprise rain storm or even tie it overhead for emergency rain protection.

My first choice for trash bags for camping etc is to recycle the pesky plastic bags my groceries and supplies come in but I also find it useful to keep a supply of kitchen and contractor bags in my RV and even in my boat!  I usually buy mine at my local Dollar Tree but buying larger packages at a home center or grocery store might cost less per bag.  I find the smaller packages convenient for camping and boating and lower purchase price attractive.  For home use I prefer buying my bags in bulk at a big box store like Costco or Walmart to save money and make sure I always have plenty on hand.

Bag it!

OHV Riding In Cold Weather

Why would anyone want to ride an OHV in cold weather?  Well, usually we don't if we have a choice -- unless you have an ATV or side-by-side with a snow plow!   But sometimes we may get the urge to go riding when the weather isn't cooperating or sometimes we might just get caught out on the trails by bad weather sneaking up on us, which can happen all too often even when we try to keep an eye on the weather!  And old margarine commercial used to say ''It's not nice to fool Mother Nature!" but Mother Nature doesn't have any qualms about fooling us!

Most OHV riding is done in the summertime or in late spring or early fall when temperatures are moderate.   However, you may want to take advantage of riding opportunities in colder weather or you may find the weather turns unexpectedly cold on an otherwise warm outing.  Either way, it is good to be prepared for riding in cold weather.

Enclosed OHVs, like some UTVs or side-by-sides, can be fully enclosed and sometimes even have heaters.   If your UTV has removable windows, be sure you install them before embarking on any rides in cold weather.  Even if it doesn't have a heater the enclosed space will keep you out of the wind preserve body and engine heat to help keep you warmer.  Do not hang anything in window areas that will block your view.

Open OHVs, such as dirt bikes, ATVs, and snowmobiles will require dressing warm.   Some UTVs and side-by-sides have more enclosed spaces and sometimes even have heaters to keep you warm.  If not, you will need to dress warm to enjoy riding in them too.  Dressing warm usually means dressing in layers so you can adjust to changing temperatures while out on a ride.  You might be surprised how quickly you will warm up once you start riding.  You should always feel a little cooler just standing around before you start out.  If you start getting warm enough to sweat you will need to open some zippers or stop and shed some layers.  The last thing you want when riding in cold weather is to get sweaty.  As soon as you activity level decreases you will get very cold very fast.

Riding in REALLY cold weather means you many have to deal with frost on your ATV and UTV windshields and sometimes even on your face shield or goggles and icy spots on roads.  Because OHV windshields are usually made of plastic instead of glass you don't want to scrape the ice off like you do your car.  It will scratch the plastic.  Better to cover the windshields at night so there is no frost on them in the morning.  If you need to clear frost off an OHV windshield, a little warm water or water mixed with rubbing alcohol may help.  Same thing with face shields and goggles.  Once you start out be aware that it is likely there will be frozen spots in shady areas of roads and trails.  On pavement that may mean black ice.  On dirt roads and trails it may be unmelted snow.  In any case, exercise extra caution crossing these areas, especially if they are on a curve.  Another hidden hazard is soft spots in frozen ground that can trap you or throw you off course.  You might also find frost on exposed seats on dirt bikes and ATVs left unprotected.  This is easily solved by wiped the seats with a soft towel -- or prevented by protecting the seat when left unattended.   

Cold weather is going to be more of an issue for riders of dirt bikes and ATVs than for drivers of UTVs and other off-road vehicles.  Even fairly open UTVs provide significantly more protection against cold wind and weather than you get on a dirt bike or ATV.  Some, but certainly not all UTVs are even equipped with a heater like those found in cars and trucks to help ward off the chill.   Snowmobilers sometimes add electric hand warmers and these might even be adapted to dirt bikes and ATVs if they produce enough electrical power.  Note, the magneto on machines not designed for electrical lighting may not be sufficient to operate electrical accessories without being upgraded.

Often riding in cold weather means riding in snow.  You may be able to negotiate short runs in snow on regular off-road knobby tires but if you plan to do a lot of riding in deep snow you will want more aggressive paddle tires like those used in sand.  Some riders add spikes to their tires to increase traction on ice and packed snow.  Take care if you choose to implement this technique.  Improper installing of the spikes can result it flat tires, tire damage, or spikes being ejected and injuring riders or bystanders.  Riding in snow  may also necessitate dark goggles or sunglasses to prevent snow blindness.

Goggles and face shields are more likely to fog up on the inside on cold days.  To prevent fogging apply an antifog solution to the inside of the lens.  A favorite among off roaders is brand named "Cat Crap", which may be kind of  turn off for some people but it really does work better than just about anything else I've tried.  Sometimes, in a pinch you might use an old diver's trick:  use your own saliva.  It won't work as good as "Cat Crap" but it is better than nothing and, unless you are dehydrated, you should always have some available.  Note:  in below freezing temperatures it may freeze on your goggles so you might want to test it on another surface before ruining your vision for the rest of the ride.

A very common problem for cold weather riding in all OHVs is cold hands.  The usual solution is to wear warmer gloves.  I like Windchill gloves for dirt bike riding or adding glove liners.  I have found that cheap knit gloves (sometimes even found at dollar stores) work pretty well inside my off-road gloves. Jersey gloves are usually too bulky but inexpensive knit gloves have worked well for us. Chemical hand warming pads are also helpful for keeping hands warm inside gloves or mittens.  BTW, mittens are usually warmer than gloves, but you sacrifice some dexterity.  Mittens can be a very good choice for passengers in a UTV.  Chemical hand warmers can be tucked into your gloves and chemical foot warmers into your boots if you have trouble keeping your extremities warm.  They even have larger sizes you can put on your back and tummy if you need more warmth.

Cold weather riding usually means dressing in layers, more than you normally use, from head to toe.  Where you may normally wear a helmet and goggles you might need to add a balaclava or face mask to help keep your head warm.  You will probably want to wear a Windchill jersey instead of a regular one and, if it is cold enough, perhaps thermal underwear beneath the jersey.  When it gets colder, you will want a warmer coat like an Enduro jacket to keep your body warm. In really cold weather you may need something heavier and warmer than an Enduro jacket, maybe even a parka.  You will definitely want warmer gloves or glove liners and may even want to add chemical hand warmers.  I have found that inexpensive knit gloves work pretty well under my riding gloves and are a lot less expensive than glove liners.  Chemical hand warmers are small and light weight so you can usually slip them into your gloves.  They even make large body warmers if you need extra warmth on your torso.  Riding pants are already fairly heavy but on colder days you will probably want to add thermal underwear.  Motocross socks are usually thick enough to provide sufficient insulation on colder days, but you might want to add sock layers or chemical foot warmers if your feet still get cold.   BTW, those chemical hand and foot warmers do begin to cool down after a while.  You can usually warm them up again by taking them out and shaking them so more air can react with the chemicals to give you a boost of warmth.

Don't overdress!  Riders sometimes have a tendency to dress too warmly.  You should feel a little bit cool (not cold or chilled) when standing around before you start your ride.  If you are already comfortably warm before you start riding you will most likely get too hot fairly quickly once you start riding.   Over dressing can cause you to sweat, which in turn will make you colder and even possibly risk hypothermia!  You will probably need to dress warmer riding a dirt bike or an ATV and less warmer riding in n enclosed and heated UTV.  You might not even to dress as warmly in an unheated UTV as the enclosed or at least partially enclosed body shelters you from most of the wind and can help capture both body and engine heat to keep you warmer than on an open OHV,  Snowmobile suits or similar insulated coveralls provide a lot of warmth but can it can be difficult to safely cool down as your level of activity generates excess body heat on aggressive rides.

Rain can catch up to you even on warm summer days.  If rain is in the forecast it is wise to have rain gear.  A complete rain suit (jacket and pants) that covers your whole body provides the best protection but even carrying a lightweight water resistant nylon jacket or a cheap plastic poncho and give you some respite from the rain if you get caught out on the trail.  I try to always have a poncho in my tool bag or a handy pocket.  It might not do the best job keeping me dry while riding, but at least it helps some and can keep most of the rain off me when stopped.  Sometimes it makes good sense to pull off the trail for a while when it starts to rain.  Even the partial protection provided by getting under a tree can help keep you a little bit dryer.  If  you start out in the rain or know you will be riding in the rain, start out wearing a rain suit.  Otherwise tuck a lightweight jacket or poncho in your tool kit or pack in case you get caught in the rain out on the trails.  Your need for rain bear might be reduced if you have a UTV with a windshield and roof to protect you from the rain.  Even a cheap plastic poncho can help keep your torso drier and warmer and that is essential to maintaining core temperature to prevent hypothermia.

 If you do get wet out on the trail, try to find someplace to dry off as soon as possible.   You will lose body heat about 25 times faster when you are wet than when you are dry and you can even get hypothermia on fairly warm days as your body loses heat.

A warm place to recover from a cold ride can be more than just comfortable, it may be necessary to prevent hypothermia or other cold related illnesses.  If your base camp includes an RV, leave the furnace set to about 70F when you go out riding so it is warm when you return.  If you are staying in a tent, make sure it is closed up while your are away.  If you have a tent heater, start it up as soon as you can when you get back from your ride.  Leave heavy, cold, wet clothing outside.  Remove all wet clothing.  Put on warm, dry clothes or wrap yourself in a blanket or sleeping bag until you warm up.  Having something warm to drink or maybe even to eat when you get back to camp can also be helpful.  Hot coffee, tea, and hot cocoa are always a hit.  So is hot soup or chili.  That is really easy to do if you have a microwave in your RV but it will take a little more time if you have to heat things up on a camp stove or campfire.  A campfire, however, may be pleasant and helpful anytime.  I like to prepare my campfire before I go out on a cold day to ride so it is ready to light when I get back.  A warm campfire is something that can be enjoyed by everyone in your riding party.  For a nice, warm, cold weather snack around the campfire we like to make a dip of about half chili and half cream cheese, warm it up, and serve it with the big Frito's Scoops corn chips.  And nothing warms you quite a quickly and comfortably than a nice hot beverage.  Many folks like coffee or tea but I prefer the thicker texture and nutrition of hot cocoa.

Stay warm!

Harbor Freight forTools and Supplies for RVers, OHVers, Campers and Boaters

I have mentioned Harbor Freight in a number of posts.  That is not because I receive any sponsorship or compensation from Harbor Freight, it is just because I have some experience with the products involved and have found them to be useful and cost effective and thought my readers might too.  They have lots of hand tools, power tools, garden tools, and other items that are useful to campers -- like tie downs, towing products, tarps, hardware, and even wheels and tires that fit some small tent trailers.  I became really familiar with their products when my wife worked as a rebuyer for their purchasing department.

You can find lots of Youtube videos about Harbor Freight tools.  They will include both positive and negative opinions.  Be sure to consider the background, qualifications, and bias of the reviewer together with both their intended use of the tools and your intended use.  You may need professional quality tools if you use them regularly on your job but less expensive options may be adequate for home or DIY use.

I have found Harbor Freight to be an excellent source for many tools for my RVs, OHVs, boats, and camping as well as for my mechanics and home maintenance tools.   You will sometimes see negative comments about the quality of tools from Harbor Freight.  While it is almost certain that high end name brands like SnapOn, Husky, and Craftsman will most likely last longer in professional use, I have pretty much found Harbor Freight tools to be more than adequate for my do it yourself projects.  The lower cost also allows me to purchase specialty tools that make jobs easier and sometimes allow me to do tasks that I could not otherwise do at all.  It also lets me afford duplicates to create convenient specialized tool kits for my motorcycle trailer, camp kit, RV, and boat.  Harbor Freight also offers a lifetime guarantee on just about all their hand tools.  In more than twenty years of buying and using their tools I have only had to utilize the guarantee a couple of times and both times they were very quick and friendly about replacing the damaged items, no questions asked.

Harbor Freight offers about the biggest selection of tarps I have seen anywhere.   They include light weight blue "poly" tarps, green farm tarps, more heavy duty silver tarps, and even real canvas tarps.  The selection and reasonable pricing always makes them my first stop when I need a tarp.  The normal prices are usually pretty good but keep an eye out for coupons and sales for even better savings.  Of course you an also find really light clear plastic painter's tarps too.

Another pretty complete category of useful items for RVers is the towing section.  You will find hitches, couplers, ball mounts, towing balls, lights, hitch pins, tie downs, safety chains, towing straps, anti-sway bars, tongue jacks, just about everything you need for towing trailers and even hitch-mount racks for carrying additional cargo and mounting winches.

Harbor Freight offers a variety of jacks and jack stands that can be useful, ranging from small bottle jacks to 10-ton floor jacks and tall farm jacks like the ones often used off-road by 4x4 users.

Harbor Freight has a large selection of hand tools -- wrenches, pliers, screw drivers, sockets, ratchets, hammers, clamps, and pry bars.  They also provide a lifetime warranty on almost all of their hand tools.  I have had to use the warranty a couple of times.  One time I twisted a socket completely off of a cross-bar lug wrench trying to remove a stuck lug not on a 3/4 ton off-road truck.  Another time I twisted a T-handle allen wrench until the flat sides were twisted from tip to  handle.  I was impressed with the strength of the plastic handle!  In both cases I was clearly exceeding the normal application but received replacements on the spot without any hassle.

The reviews of Harbor Freight power tools are mixed.  If you look for Harbor Freight on Youtube you will get a variety of videos listing the "10 Best" or "10 worst" Harbor Freight items.  Sometimes they may tell you what to buy or not to buy at Harbor Freight.  Remember, all of these videos are personal opinions of the people who made the videos and they may or may not have their own bias and they may or may not have any real qualifications for evaluating the products.  My own experience has been mostly positive.  I have found things like cordless drills and even cordless impact wrenches to be well worth the modest price.  Did they hold up as long as brand names like Dewalt?  No, not usually.  But the prices were significantly less and usually the performance was similar or at least adequate while they lasted for my DIY projects.  In general I have found most DIY reviews were pretty positive while many of the negative reviews were from professionals who normally use expensive, high-end tools and use them a lot.  An inexpensive cordless drill was a welcome addition to the tools in my enclosed motorcycle trailer.

Harbor Freight offers a wide assortment of portable generators, ranging from small "tailgater" units to large ones that provide enough power to run your whole house in an emergency.   I have seen Youtube videos that both praise and criticize Harbor Freight generators.  Generally the ones from Harbor Freight will be considerably less expensive than well know name brands and may still be a good value even if they don't meet the same performance or longevity of the higher priced brands.  I have a 4500 watt unit I use frequently due to power outages in my rural area and in the two or three years I've had it, it has performed flawlessly.  It cost way less than half a "brand name"generator of the same size.

Harbor Freight is offering a line of winches that is an extraordinary value.   I have personally used a couple of their 2500 lb ATV winches and been very satisfied with them.  I have been eyeing the 12,000 lb Badlands winch for my 4WD truck.  At a regular retail price of $599 it is about 1/3 the cost of a similarly rated name brand winch and I have seen several very favorable reviews on Youtube from highly qualified professional users.  I have even noticed that a couple of popular off-road recovery teams uses the 12,000 lb Badlands winch.  I recently saw the 12,000 lb Badlands winch on sale for just $319!  And they have a hitch-mount rack specifically designed for it for just $75.  A similarly sized Warn brand winch typically retails for around $1800!

Harbor Freight has recently introduced some higher priced hand and power tools.  These might be of particular interest to professionals or those whose budgets can accommodate the higher prices.   Supposedly they will be closer in fit, finish, and quality to the high-end name brand tools but still less expensive.  When purchasing hand tools, especially things like pliers and wrenches and sockets, I look at the fit and finish and prefer those with precise edges and a smooth, shiny finish.  I have seen wrenches that looked like they had been cast in sand molds and avoid them!  Most of the hand tools that have failed me in the past would not have passed my current fit and finish selection criteria.  A lot of the wrenches and socket sets at Harbor Freight have a very nice fit and finish.

Harbor Freight often offers a variety of hardware you won't find any place else.  I find their "storehouse" offerings particularly appealing.  These are collections of small parts (nuts, bolts, fasteners, o-rings, nylon clamps, hitch pins, cotter keys, etc).  They usually come with their own plastic storage bins to organize them for ease of use.  A quick glance at my supply cabinet shows o-rings, hitch pins, cotter keys, metric nuts and bolts, SAE nuts and bolts, hose rings, hose clamps and cable clamps.  Having an assortment of commonly used hardware on hand has saved many projects and many trips to town!  They also usually have a good assortment of cable ties, ranging from tiny little ones handy for controlling phone charger cables to huge ones big enough to secure tents and sleeping bags.  On a related note, I figured out a way to keep the little plastic tubs in my dirt bike trailer nut and bolt storehouse from sliding out when traveling:  I cut some pieces of thin welding rod to match the height and width of the cabinet, then heated the ends and suck them into the plastic frames so they crossed in front of the drawers. It was a quick, cheap, and easy way to keep things from getting tossed all over the place towing the trailer to off-road locations.

Garden tools.  There are a surprising number of garden tools that might be useful for campers as well as for home use.  Axes, wedges, rakes, bow and pruning saws, and shovels are among the most appropriate camping choices as well as chain saws. Harbor Freight offers gasoline, electric, and cordless chain saws.  Bow saws and folding pruning saws are especially well suited for camping.   Folding saws are handy if you are hiking or backpacking.  Bow saws are a little stronger, cut faster, and are easier to use if you have a place to carry them,

Harbor Freight also has a wide assortment of gloves:  work gloves, garden gloves, welding gloves, mechanics gloves, latex gloves.  I rely almost exclusively on work and latex gloves from Harbor Freight for my home improvement, yard, RV, boat and car maintenance projects.  Their regular prices are usually very reasonable and they often have coupons that make them even more affordable.  I have noticed a dramatic increase recently in the cost of latex and nitrile gloves, thanks to COVID-19!

I have found  many uses for foam anti-fatigue mats which Harbor Freight has at a good price .  Be sure to watch for coupons for even greater savings, sometimes as low as $4.99 for 4-6 mats!  I have them in front of the workbench in my garage and in my motorcycle trailer.  I have also used them for a comfortable, anti-skid deck around and under my inflatable spa.  They can also be used to insulate the inside of boat cabins and are especially nice around the v-berth so you don't rub up against the cold fiberglass or metal hull in the middle of the night.  In addition to insulating the hull, the pads also reduce condensation inside the boat.

Harbor Freight stocks a good supply of safety items, such as goggles and face masks.   You will also find lot of other safety products, some you might not even have thought about before.  It can be educational just looking through the safety section.  I picked up some non-skid tape that has been useful on my RV, my motorcycle trailer, a utility trailer, and my sailboat as well as around the house.

Harbor Freight used to regularly offer coupons via print ads in many publications but has recently switched to online coupons.  Their coupons often provide substantial savings on their already low prices.  Use your favorite search engine to look for "Harbor Freight Coupons" to get the best prices on things you need.  Sometimes I peruse the coupons and take advantage of them to get items I might not even have an immediate need for if they are at a good price if I think I might have a use for them someday.  I like to be prepared.  They usually have a 20% off any item coupon that is especially useful when buying higher priced items at regular price.  Coupons are often a way to get customers into a store in hopes they will buy other things.  That being said, I have never had any negative experience buying coupon-only items at Harbor Freight.

They also offer an ''Insider's Club'' that gives additional discounts on selected items from time to time.  There is a modest annual fee to maintain your Club status but you usually recoup the cost quickly, especially if you purchase more expensive items where the Club savings on one purchase can often offset the annual fee.

Many Harbor Freight stores have side-walk sales from time to time.  These an be an especially good time to get excellent bargains.  Sometimes the inventory includes returned items offered at substantial savings.  When we lived in southern California we were even close enough to take advantage of the large side-walk sale at their warehouse in Camarillo, California.

In summary, I generally find Harbor Freight tools and hardware to be a good value.   As always, you should examine anything you are buying to make sure it meets your personal needs.  I would look to their higher-end offerings or maybe even defer to brand names for ongoing professional use but do-it-your-selfers may be able to expand your tool inventory at reasonable prices from their standard lines, allowing you to add many tools that would be way outside your budget if you bought professional brands and they will more than likely hold up well in occasional homeowner use.

Tool up!