Hiking Comfort and Safety

Hiking is a wonderful way to explore nature.  But, like any other outdoor activity, there are some risks and you need to prepare yourself by dressing properly, using good hiking form, and paying attention to your environment.  You should also be in good health.  Many of the tips provided in this post are also applicable to other outdoor activities, such as horseback and OHV riding.

One of the most important pieces of equipment for hiking is proper footwear.  You need sturdy shoes or boots, preferably with high tops to provide ankle support and protection from snakes and insects and an appropriate sock system.   Yes, I said "sock system".  You might get by wearing one good pair of socks, but for best results you may need multiple layers, even in warm weather.  In cold weather you need to keep your feet warm.   In warm weather, you need material close to your skin that will quickly wick away perspiration to keep your feet dry.  Sock systems often include layers to control chafing.  If you're going to be doing a lot of hiking it is worth investing the time and money to get good boots/shoes and socks.  Bruised or blistered feet will put a very quick and painful end to any hike -- but the pain may last for days.   I learned to wear a pair of light dress socks under my thick motocross socks for dirt biking, even in hot summer months to avoid chafing and blisters.  You need to make sure your boots fit well and are broken in.  Ill fitting boots or shoes will cause extreme discomfort.  In case you do get blisters, first aid in the form of something called moleskin (tape or padding) can provide a lot of relief and give your blisters a better chance to heal.  Lacking moleskin, even Bandaids may help.  Left untreated and unprotected they will just get worse and could get infected.

Access to many trail heads often involves hiking or walking along narrow rural roads where there are no sidewalks or pedestrian lanes.  Sometimes this is the most dangerous part of the hike. When walking along a road with no pedestrian lanes, always walk facing traffic.   That way you can see approaching vehicles and jump out of the way if they don't see you -- or don't have room to move over due to oncoming traffic.  We have had two serious accidents in our rural neighbor hood in the last few years involving youth who were walking along a rural highway at night.   One of our neighbors, a 14 year old boy, died at the scene of the first accident.  He and his friend were walking along the right hand side of the road with their backs to traffic on their side of the road and didn't see the approaching car and the driver didn't see them (dressed in dark clothing) until it was too late.  A similar situation happened a second time.  Fortunately, that victim survived but was seriously injured.

On the trails, watch where you're stepping.  Avoid stepping over rocks or logs without knowing what is on the other side.  Snakes and poisonous insects often hide under such obstacles and they can also mask dangerous holes that could cause you to sprain or break an ankle.  Watch out for loose rocks or logs that may give way and cause you to fall or twist an ankle.  Also be aware that prey travels on trails, predators travel beside trails.  Hiking on a trail may make you look like prey to wild animals.  That is not to say you should hike off the trail, just pay attention to your surroundings. Watch and listen for nearby movement that might indicate you are being stalked by a predator.   Most wild animals are normally frightened of humans and will stay out of your way if you give them a chance.  Let them know you're there by making some noise.  Wearing "bear bells" might be a good idea when hiking in bear country.   Injured, starving, or sick animals may behave more aggressively, as will mothers with young if you appear to be a threat to their cubs.  You should also be aware that running tells a predator that you are prey.  In most, but not all cases, your best action if faced with a predator is to make yourself appear as large as possible and make as much noise as you can.  Then back away slowly if you can.  Check with local rangers to find out what kind of predators, if any, you might encounter on the trails you hike and how best to deal with them.

One of the best ways to ensure your safety on the trails is to check in with the local ranger before striking out.  From them you can learn about especially difficult sections of the trail you may need to watch out for and find out about recent animal activity.  Rangers can give you excellent advice about choosing trails that match your skills, physical condition, and desired level of adventure.   They can tell you how long it should take to hike a particular route so you can plan your day(s) appropriately. You don't want to start out on a 16 hour trek if you're only planning a half day hike.  On the other hand, back packing with overnight stays can a wonderful adventure -- if you're properly prepared, plan to do it,  and are equipped appropriately for it.  Checking in with the rangers will also alert them to come looking for you if you don't return at the expected time.  Getting a search started early can be essential to finding lost, sick, or injured hikers before it is too late to help them.

Know your surroundings.  Be able to identify major landmarks.   Know in what direction you would need to go to find your way back to civilization if you wander off the trail.   It is WAY too easy to loose track of your route when hiking in unfamiliar forests.   Believe me, all the trees look alike, especially when it starts to get dark!  Add a measure of panic and you're really in trouble!  Check out maps of the area before you start out.  Just finding a road, power line, or railroad track won't do you much good if you don't know which direction to go once you find it.   Civilization and safety may be just around the next bend -- if you go the right direction -- but could be hundreds of miles if you make the wrong choice.

Proper hiking equipment is essential for a safe and comfortable outing.  While people do a lot of trekking in canvas shoes, sturdy leather hiking boots (as mentioned above) are a better option.  They protect your ankles from sprains and protect your feet from injury from sharp objects, snakes, and insects.  Your boots should fit properly and be broken in BEFORE you begin your hike.  Wear them around home for a while to break them in.  Make sure you check them out on the terrain you'll be hiking.  It won't do you much good to just walk around on level concrete sidewalks when you'll be hiking up and down hills on sometimes rocky or sandy ground.  If you can't walk at least a couple of miles around your neighborhood in your boots without discomfort you have no business wearing them out on the trail.  The right socks will make a world of difference in your hiking comfort. Sometimes you need a "sock system" -- multiple layers that protect from blisters, cushion your step, maintain the right temperature, and keep your feet dry.  In warm weather you will want to avoid sweaty feet.  Wear socks that will wick moisture away to help keep your feet dry.  In cold weather you'll want to keep your feet warm.  Wear insulated socks or even heated socks or add chemical "toe warmers"  Dress appropriately for the weather.   If it is cool when you start out, dress in layers so you can lighten up when either sun or exertion raises your body temperature.  A light, long-sleeved shirt and long pants will protect you from sunburn and from scratches from bushes and branches.  A broad-brimmed hat will help protect your head, face, and neck from sunburn and help keep you cool in hot weather.  A walking stick can add stability in difficult sections and ease the overall effort, reducing fatigue.  Given that any physical activity like hiking, horseback riding, or even riding an OHV will raise your body temperature, you should probably dress so you feel just a little cool (not cold or chilled) before starting out.   In cold weather, be sure to wear or bring along waterproof rain gear if there is any chance of rain.  Nice, warm, cozy winter coats that work great in cold and snow are not always water resistant and you'll quickly find yourself freezing if your clothing gets wet from rain or melting snow.

Hiking or walking sticks or trekking poles aren't essential but will had a lot of comfort and stability when hiking.  Walking sticks are a single staff used mostly on fairly level trails.  Trekking poles come in pairs, like ski poles, and can be used to good advantage in any kind of terrain.  Some folks even use old ski poles as trekking poles for summer hikes.  To get the right size, stand in your hiking boots on level ground and hold the stick or poles in front of you.  Your arm should form a 90° angle at the elbow.  Sometimes you can pick up a dead branch and trim it to the right size for a temporary walking stick but bringing your own assures you will have one and that it will be the right size and will already have a comfortable grip and a tip that will make a secure connection with the ground.  Commercial versions are available include some that telescope to make them easy to carry when you're not using them, can be adjusted easily to just the right height.  Some that have internal springs that act as shock absorbers, and some that are adjustable so you can shorten them when going up hill and lengthen them when going down hill.  Walking sticks and trekking poles won't reduce the total amount of energy you'll use when hiking but they will help improve endurance by distributing the effort over more muscles and relieving some of the strain on your legs and back.  They might even be used as a weapon to defend yourself against an animal attack.  Hand made wooden walking sticks can sometimes be found for around $10.  Adjustable, shock absorbing commercial models can run $150-200 but you can also find adjustable aluminum models at Walmart for around $25-30.  I have hiked without a hiking stick and with both fixed wooden and telescoping aluminum models.  I can assure you hiking with a hiking stick feels easier than hiking without one, regardless of what kind you use.  I did find the telescoping aluminum stick handy because I could easily store it on or in my pack if when I wasn't using it.  I've managed to leave more than one wooden walking stick leaning against a tree after stopping.

Hydration is essential.   Always wear a hydration pack like a Camelbak or carry a canteen or water bottle.   Don't wait until you feel thirsty to take a drink.   You are already getting dehydrated if you wait until you  feel thirsty.  It is better to take frequent sips of water than to gulp down a whole bunch at once. Dark urine is also a sign of dehydration.  You can begin hydrating yourself the day or evening before a hike by drinking plenty of water or sports drinks with a balanced electrolyte mix.   Drinking copious amounts of water alone can lead to a condition sometimes known as water intoxification.  Technically it is called hypnotatremia.  What happens when you drink too much water is you flush out all the electrolytes (the chemicals your body needs) and then what you drink just ends up in your urine without doing you any good.  Dark urine is usually a sign of dehydration telling you you need to drink more.  Pale urine is what you normally want to maintain.   However, hypnoatremia is one time pale urine isn't a good sign and could be misleading.  If you're drinking plenty of water and still feel symptoms of heat illness, you need to balance your electrolytes so your body and make use of the water you're drinking.  Sports drinks like Gatorade and Powerade are designed to provided balanced electrolytes.  If you don't have access to sports drinks, take some salt tablets or drink a little salt water or pickle brine to replace some of the basics.

Routine hazards are usually more of a nuisance than a danger, but you still want to avoid unnecessary discomfort and some minor problems, if left unattended, can lead to serious problems. Some typical examples are sunburn, splinters, and insect bites.   Minor sunburn is painful but really bad sunburns can deliver 2nd and even 3rd degree burns. Splinters are painful and often cause infection.    Often the human body is allergic to some of the natural chemicals in some woods (redwood, for example) and will cause adverse reactions.  I once had a redwood splinter that required surgery because of such a reaction.   The inflammation was so severe that Novacaine injects for the surgery wore off in just a few minutes.  Insect bites are mostly annoying, with minor pain and itching, but some insects carry disease.  Those pesky mosquitoes sometimes carry West Nile disease.  Ticks can be a problem in many areas with brush and they can carry Lyme Disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever.  Wear long sleeved shirts and long pants and use a good insect repellent to deter all the little beasties you can.  Avoid perfume and cologne that might attract insects."Bite sticks" and anti-itch creams can help relieve your suffering and some contain antiseptics to kill germs.   Forget to bring some along?  Ordinary household ammonia is the active ingredient in many insect bite products.  Plain old tooth paste (not gel) can also help with the itch.  Blisters on your hands and feet are quite common.  Wear light weight gloves to protect your hands.  Heavy gloves may be too warm and might cause blisters.  Gloves should be soft with smooth seams and should fit, well, like a glove!  Make sure your boots fit properly and wear the right "sock system" for the weather.   Have some "moleskin" in your first aid kit to cover blisters if still get them.  Moleskin is particularly effective if you apply it to tender spots before they turn into blisters.  Carry at least a small (pocket size) first aid kit and treat all injuries, even minor ones, quickly to avoid infection.  Make sure you have a needle in your first aid kit to remove splinters.  Another handy tool for splinters, according to a surgeon friend of mine, is a pair of ordinary fingernail clippers.   The jaws can grip a splinter and pull it out or can be used to cut tough skin away so you can remove the splinter.  It would be a good idea to sterilize them with alcohol before using them.  A pocket sized hand sanitizer should do the job.

Back packs are handy for carrying supplies, clothing, etc. but don't over load them.  A pack that is too heavy will dig into your shoulders and put a strain on your back and legs.   Having an appropraite waist or hip belt can also take some of the load off your shoulders.  Take care in how you arrange things in your pack.   Put soft things like towels and clothing next to your back and hard things like camp stoves and flashlights on the out side.   Having a pack with ample outside pockets will allow you to organize things to avoid losing track of small items while keeping frequently used gadgets close at hand.  The basic rule I was taught was your pack should never exceed  half your body weight but recent research strongly recommends the lighter the pack, the better.  They defined 4 categories, ranging from minimalist (under 12 lbs) to plush/deluxe (over 30 lbs) and pointed out that soldiers carry 40-90 lbs on military missions.  When I was hiking with my sons in Boy Scouts, I weighed around 160 lbs and my pack was about 75 lbs.  My hip joints felt like there were on fire the first hundred yards or so of my first  hike with that pack but I eventually got used to it and was fairly comfortable by the time we reached our camp site for the night.  But also very grateful to be able to take the pack off!

Always bring along your first aid kit and basic survival tools.  You never know what might happen and it is always better to have resources and not use them than to need them and not have them.   You don't have to go overboard.  A pocket first aid kit, a BIC lighter, and a good hunting knife should be adequate for most situations.  I like to toss in a survival blanket, one of those aluminized mylar things that fold up to about the size of a handkerchief and I like to have a flint and steel in case my Bic gives out.

Always let someone (family member, neighbor, park ranger, local sheriff) know where you are going and when you expect to return.  That way, if something should happen to you out on the trail someone will know where to come looking for you when you don't return.  Even the most experienced hikers can have accidents or even become disoriented and lost.   Leaving your plans with someone is not the sign of a a wimp, it is a sign of wisdom.  Even Survivorman has a safety crew that will come looking for him if he doesn't show up at the designated rendezvous on time.  If you change your plans, let your contact know! It isn't going to do you any good at all if they come looking for you where you aren't or where you were last week!

Happy hiking!

"Hoarding"

Our "all-knowing" government in Washington, D.C., has implemented steps to prevent what they have labeled "hoarding".  New emails come along almost every week warning of expected government seizure of emergency food supplies and the illegalization of stockpiling emergency supplies.  Many of us have, for many years, used the term "emergency preparedness" to describe the practice of stockpiling some extra food, clothing, medical supplies and other necessities against times of need.  Such preparations have been crucial for many people I know during the recent recession and the COVID-19 lockdowns. Now Washington, D.C., having repeatedly failed to anticipate needs for emergency support adequately themselves (think Katrina and Sandy), has decided to possibly criminalize those of us who have had the foresight to prepare to take care of ourselves.  Already they have made it illegal to stock pile extra prescription drugs (even to the extent that there are shortages in some hospitals and pharmacies) and rumors that they are actively buying up ammunition to prevent law abiding citizens from obtaining it have sparked panic buying that is creating an actual induced shortage of ammunition.  Severe restrictions on stockpiling food are also underway.  It seems "they" want to make sure that "we" are completely and forever dependent on "them".  Be aware that the time may come when the food you keep in your RV or camping supplies for convenience and for potential emergencies may be considered illegal "hoarding".   Some of this concern about hoarding is based on Executive Order 10998 issued by John F Kennedy way back in 1962, so it isn't necessarily anything new!  However, the current concerns focus on how this order is being interpreted and enforced by the Obama administration.  There are rumors that suggest they may seek to prohibit "hoarding" of basic supplies. Even current FEMA guidelines suggest maintaining a 2 weeks supply of food so you should be safe at that level -- at least for a while.  But that could change by Executive Order on a moment's notice.  Beyond that you may want to keep things pretty much to yourself, which you should do to prevent becoming a target of looting during a disaster anyway.  I've seen strong warnings as recently as February 2015, repeated again in March 2016 about pending Federal action to criminalize hoarding of food and other survival supplies.   Even more recent warnings in 2021 label preppers as criminals!

What can you do about it?  Are you willing to risk breaking the law to stockpile a little food and other supplies to handle an emergency?  Even FEMA recommends storing enough to last you 2 weeks.

If you still want to store some extra food against times of need (man-made or natural disaster, loss of employment, societal collapse) start purchasing a little extra each week and setting it aside.  Be sure to rotate your supplies so you use up the oldest stock first.  Most budgets can accommodate an extra can or two of beans or tuna each week.  Assuming you do your grocery shopping once a week, in a year you could have 50-100 cans of emergency food saved up, without creating any red flags or unwanted attention that bulk buying might generate or spending a huge amount of money all at once. And, by the way, buy foods you will actually eat.   Stocking up on rice cakes if you never eat them wouldn't do you much good.   In fact, significant changes in diet can create extreme digestive and health issues as well as have psychological consequences, neither of which is desirable during a emergency.  I know of one survivalist who insisted 1 jar of peanut butter would last him a year or more -- because he hated peanut butter and wouldn't eat it -- even if  he were starving!

Medicines are another major issue.  With legal limits on prescriptions, stocking up for extended emergencies is becoming problematic.  Even hospitals, that have a very legitimate need to store medications, are facing shortages.   One suggestion I've seen is to examine veterinary medications as alternatives.  A lot of medications people depend on (insulin, blood thinners, etc) may be really hard to obtain and keep in sufficient quantities for long term emergencies, but some things that may offer life-saving treatments in a disaster, like antibiotics, are often available as animal medications. Veterinary penicillin can usually be purchased at farm and ranch stores without a prescription and could be better than nothing in long term disaster situation.   Fish antibiotics are available without a prescription and in many cases exactly match human dosages.  For example, Fish Mox is available, without prescription, in the same 250mg dosage used for human beings.  It is even the same red and pink capsule and bears the same WC 731 identification.  Several other aquatic antibiotics also have matching human counterparts.  Be sure to examine the ingredients of any alternative medication to be sure it doesn't contain fillers or other contaminates that could be dangerous.   Single-ingredient items are usually OK, but having not been certified by the FDA, might not have been manufactured under the same strict conditions as those considered fit for human consumption.   If you are planning to be prepared for any long-term emergency having some antibiotics on hand may be critical.   Note: antibiotics should ONLY be administered when there are clear signs of infection.  Overuse will damage "good" bacteria needed to sustain good health and will promote the development of strains of "super bugs" that are resistant to antibiotics.   Another thing to consider is expiration dates.  Army testing has shown that about 90% of medications are safe and effective for 15 years beyond their stated expiration date!   That means, you don't always have to toss out our old meds the day they expire.  However, watch for signs of deterioration, such as changes in color or texture, separation of components in liquids, chalking or flaking of pills, or unusual odors.  When ordinary aspirin gets old it begins to give off a vinegar like smell.  Personally, if aspirin that smelled like vinegar was the only pain killer I had, I'd still use it (and have done so with good results and no noticeable side effects) but it is better to replace it whenever it begins to go bad -- while you have access to replace it.  So-called "folk medicine" is another valuable source of help in disaster situation.  Some natural substances may be far easier to come by.  For example, willow bark as an aspirin substitute.  I've tried it and it works.  If I find myself in desperate need of antibiotics and had none available, I have considered looking favorably on moldy bread.  Bread molds is where penicillin was originally discovered and the bacteria that makes it is virtually everywhere, except perhaps in freezing climates.  Even there, it will probably become active anytime you create a reasonably warm and comfortable environment for yourself -- and your bread.  However, bread mold may contain other types of bacteria and mold that create toxic chemicals that could make you sick. Speaking of penicillin, you may be able to purchase veterinary penicillin at a farm and ranch store without a prescription for your emergency kit.

Ammunition is not something that is easy to find substitutes for.   If you're into re-loading you may be able to extend your capacity, but that would mean stockpiling hazardous materials.  If not, take advantage of availability and make periodic small purchases as you can.  If you are finding the particular ammunition you need in short supply, you might consider buying alternate firearms with better availability.  In a long term TEOTWAWKI (The End Of The World As We Know It) scenario you may find yourself dependent on hunting for food.   It may be a good idea to develop alternate skills, such as archery and trapping.   Archery can be a good, fun activity to complement your RV and camping outings.   It would be a good idea to develop some skills BEFORE you need them for survival.  It takes some instruction and practice to become proficient.  You can probably find a field archery club somewhere near you home where you can enjoy the sport and gain valuable skills.  You can find lots of web sites that describe how to make simple deadfall or Paiute traps, but it takes some practice to get it down.   Here is one instructional video for making deadfall traps.   Even Les Stroud (Survivorman), with all his experience, sometimes has trouble with the delicate adjustments necessary to make them work.  And more than once he has come back to find a trap tripped but empty -- and the bait all gone.  Unfortunately, in a disaster situation, people who are prepared may become targets of looters and others who failed to make proper preparations and you may have to defend yourself and your family from attack.  Will you know how and will you have appropriate tools and mental attitude to do so?  Knowing what to do and being ready to do it aren't always the same thing.

Dangers of being prepared.   The dangers of not being prepared are pretty obvious:   lack of food, medicine, and fuel in a disaster situation could be life threatening.   Unfortunately, being prepared could become life threatening too.  If you are prepared -- and those around you who aren't know of it -- things could quickly reach the point where the unprepared will do ANYTHING to get what you have and they don't.  You will either need to be prepared to share your emergency supplies and knowledge or defend them.  Keeping a low profile -- security by obscurity -- is one way to minimize potential problems  But if your neighbors see you thriving when they are starving, sooner or later they're going to come knocking.  A friend of mine once told me what he would do if/when that happened.  He would get out is rifle and shoot over their heads.  He had not desire to shoot anyone. If the warning shots worked, great!  If the didn't work and the mob returned fire, he figured his problems would be over quickly.  Not sure I agree, but it is something to think about.

This topic was originally posted in 2013 but emails and news briefs continue to pop up warning against imminent government seizure of your survival supplies.  I don't understand the logic behind anyone campaigning against being prepared.  Perhaps they are reacting out of fear or jealousy or they clearly don't understand the potential or actual threats we may face. The persistence of rumors of government seizure of personal preparedness supplies is disconcerting.  If a lie is told often enough, some people begin to believe it -- or believe in it!

Security by obscurity is actually a fairly good way to protect you, your family and your valuables.  If no one knows about your preparations you aren't as likely to have them seized by the government or stolen by mobs.  Think about it.  A nice, tall, razor-wire topped fence may seem like a good idea but it virtually screams there is good stuff here and it will not stop determined government enforcement nor angry mobs.  Better to keep a low profile and avoid unwanted attention.

Illegal hoarding or wise preparedness? You decide!

Some Unusual but Useful Camping Situations and Skills

Here are some things we've run into during our camping adventures that you might not think you'll ever encounter.  They are not planned or even common happenings that you would normally associate with camping.  However, given the remote locations we all enjoy for our outdoor activities, you might run into one or more of these situations and it would be good to be at least mentally prepared and have some idea what do do.

Wildfires can happen in just about any remote area.  Whether ignited by lightning, careless campers, or inconsiderate smokers, fire can quickly get out of hand.   One large fire in southern California was started by a cigarette thrown from a car on the 101 Freeway.  It happened smack in front of a fire station and one of the firefighters witnessed the act.  By the time they could get their equipment to the other side of the freeway the fire was already out of control.  It then burned all the way through the mountains to the ocean, blackening more than 25,000 acres near Malibu.   If you had been among the campers in the area near the fire, you would have either been evacuated or conscripted to help fight the fire.   Conscription is not a frequent thing, but in an emergency, campers and even passing motorists have been known to to be "invited" to join the fire lines in some places. What would you do if you found yourself in a wildfire situation?  Do you have any fire fighting skills?  Having served as a volunteer firefighter I have had the privilege of being trained in fighting wildland fires and I can tell you there is a lot more to it than you might think!

On more than one occasion our dirt bike group was asked by rangers to ride into a normally off-limits wilderness area to help rescue hikers who had set the wilderness on fire!  It is ironic that the wilderness designation was promoted by environmentalists to protect the area from the (unjustified) threat of dirt bikes starting fires and then it was set ablaze again and again by bonafide environmentalists themselves.   In one case, the area had been used regularly by dirt bikers for more than 40 years without an incident. Then, the first year it after it was declared wilderness, a card-carrying Sierra club member, burning her toilet paper, set it on fire and burned 55,000 acres of their brand new wilderness to a crisp!  There were at least 4 more occasions om the next few years when the hikers set it on fire when we were camping nearby.

First of all, be vigilant.  You always want to monitor the weather.  If there is lightning in the area, it could start a fire.  Watch the skies for excessive smoke.   Brush fires usually put out copious amounts of white smoke.   The smoke from some forest fires may be darker, depending on the type of trees and other foliage and how dry they are.  If you see a lot of smoke (of any color), start making preparations to evacuate.   If you wait until law enforcement comes around telling you to clear out, you may not have time to pack up and get out safely.  Always have an evacuation route in mind.  Pay attention to access roads and alternate routes as you approach your campground.  Consider where you will go if the primary access road is blocked.

Park for easy exit.  The parking on camp sites in many forest campgrounds is often narrow and deep.  If you have a trailer it is often tempting to pull straight into the camp site when you get there and worry about backing out when the time comes.  However, if, when the time comes, it is an emergency evacuation, getting out will be easier if you are already headed out.  Taking the time to back into your spot when you arrive takes some discipline and commitment but will pay off if you need a quick get away.   Having the curb side of your RV facing the fire pit and picnic table may trump easy departure.  Wildfire and flood are two of the most frequent local emergencies that would trigger evacuation, but other, personal emergencies may also dictate a quick exit.   Illness or injury of someone in your party or some kind of problem at home may dictate a speedy escape.

If you are camped in an area threatened by wildfire, take precautions to protect yourself, your companions, and your equipment.  Blowing embers from a nearby fire can ignite or at least damage even "flame resistant" tents and canopies.  Pack up any flammable items before the fire gets close and begin planning your escape routes.  Gather in any members of your group or pets and seek a safe refuge from approaching flames.  RVs provide some protection but are still susceptible to catching fire if the flames get close enough.

If you do get involved with a fire fighting effort, will you know what to do?  THE most important thing to keep in mind is your own safety.   Placing yourself in danger only adds to the problem, so pay close attention to the instructions of rangers, law enforcement, and firefighters and do exactly what you are told to do.   Fire needs three things to burn: fuel, oxygen, and heat.   Take away any one of those and the fire will stop.  Cutting fire breaks is one way firefighters control wildfires -- it removes the fuel.   Small fires, like spot fires from blowing embers, can sometimes be put out by shoveling dirt on them.  That smothers the flames (removes the oxygen).   Fire often behaves in unpredictable ways, but experienced firefighters know how to recognize certain conditions that sometimes give them some indication of what the fire is about to do.  Watch and listen to them!  Don't try to just guess.   Changes in the color of smoke and the direction the fire is moving can be significant but unless you are an experienced firefighter you won't be able to recognize the signs and know what is happening.  If you do notice a sudden change in the color, volume, or direction of smoke, bring it to the attention of one of the firefighters.

Many of the precautions described for wildfires also apply to flash floods.   Flash floods can occur even if it hasn't been raining where you are.  Flash floods can rush down dry canyons from rain in the mountains many miles away and the results can be devastating.  Avoid camping in low-lying areas or sand washes that may be subjected to flooding.  Make sure you have a clear escape route in mind. Watch the weather and pack up ahead of time.

Loose livestock have surprised more than one camper.  Some of the public lands where we camp are also grazing lands for sheep and cattle. Try to avoid disturbing grazing animals.  If they stampede they can be very dangerous, causing a lot of destruction and serious injuries.  NEVER chase them with your OHV!  Grazing livestock is someone's livelihood and chasing them may cause injury or stress that is harmful and expensive. The act of chasing them may also damage critical grasslands on which they depend for food.  Stay on designated trails.  If livestock wanders into your campsite you may be able to shoo them away safely if there aren't too many of them.   Never approach them closely or make threatening moves that may cause them to charge you.  Even something as small as a sheep is surprisingly strong and can do a lot of damage.  You may recall the scene in City Slickers where Billy Crystal ropes a cow and then asks the old cowboy "what is wrong with that?"  The cowboy shoots off his gun and the cow takes off, dragging Billy Crystal behind him as the old cowboy grins and says "That!"   It is best to have multiple people working together to chase livestock back where they belong.  To encourage them to go where you want them to go, try to get in front of them or to the side opposite of where you are trying to direct them.  Wave your arms or a branch or rope and shout. They should move away from you.  Don't worry about wearing red.  The old myth is that bulls charge red flags.  Turns out bulls are color blind, so the color doesn't matter, the movement does.  BTW, running from an animal usually encourages it to chase you.  Sometimes making an aggressive move toward them will scare them off but it could also incite them to attack!  In most cases standing still or moving slowly and deliberately in a safe direction away from the animal is a better tactic.  You are unlike to be able to outrun anything that decides to chase you.

Bears and other wild animals are frequent visitors in many popular campgrounds.   I'm sure we all remember Yogi Bear and his obsession with picnic baskets.  He was always amusing but unfortunately, unthinking people who feed the bears, create problems for the rest of us and for the bears.  In the first place, table scraps are not proper nutrition for bears, so their health is compromised.   Secondly, feeding them tends to make them dependent on human handouts.  When the handouts get scarce, the bears starve -- and get sick or become dangerous.  Bears have been known to even break into cars to get to food inside.   Other wild animals, like raccoons, because they are smaller, are usually thought to be less dangerous, but they can still do a lot of damage when threatened and often carry diseases (like rabies) that you DON'T want to get.  Raccoons tend to be rather aggressive.  Mountain lions get a lot of bad press when one wanders into a campground or suburban area, but they are usually rather shy creatures.  If one does approach human beings, it is an indication of desperation and they are likely to be dangerous.   Give ALL wild animals wide berth, especially a mother and her young.  There is a lot written about the proper response to coming face to face with wild animals.   Should you run?  Should you make a lot of noise?  Should you remain still? Depending on the type of animal, the situation, and who is giving the advice, you will see all of these actions recommended.   To KNOW what to do, research the kinds of animals that inhabit areas you will be visiting and how to deal with them.  Check with local rangers about the level of threat and best response if you should encounter unexpected 4-legged guests.  You're on your own for 2-legged trespassers.  Usually, but certainly not always, making yourself appear as large and ferocious as possible will intimidate wild animals.  I've heard that works with grizzlies but playing dead works better with black bears. Sometimes aggressive action just angers or frightens animals and makes the situation worse.  When hiking making plenty of noise will give animals warning and many if not most of them will get out of your way before you even know they are there.  It is good to know that prey usually follows trails and predators usually parallel the trails off somewhere in the bush.  Since you will likely be hiking on the trails, you may appear to some animals as prey.  Some predators may follow you for a while out of curiosity to find out who/what you are and then drop back when they don't identify you as one of their normal meals but if they seem to be consistently stalking you they have probably decided you would be a tasty snack.  Avoid carrying foods whose odors might attract carnivores.

Dust storms are fairly common in desert areas or even areas near farms or construction sites where winds can pick up loose dirt from plowed ground.  It is a good idea to know what to do if you are caught in a dust storm.   First of all, if you're traveling, the best action is to seek shelter.  As the dust reduces visibility your risk of an accident increased dramatically, whether you're on the highway or on the trails on your OHV.  At least slow down.   If you can't see where you're going, find a safe place to pull over out of traffic and wait it out.   Don't stop in the road or trail or you'll just become an obstacle for other  (less careful) travelers to run into.  Use a bandana or other piece of clothing to cover your nose and mouth to filter as much dust as you can out of the air you're breathing.  If you're in camp, close all the windows in your tent or RV and go inside. Make sure all your equipment is secured so it doesn't blow away.  Cover any sensitive equipment with tarps and protect the air intake on vehicles to prevent clogging air filters.

Obnoxious neighbors.  First of all, make sure YOU are not an obnoxious neighbor.  The most frequent camper complaints are noise and trespassing.  Keep your stuff, including sounds, smoke, and cooking odors from intruding into someone else's space whenever you can.  If smoke from your campfire is blowing smack into someone else's space, minimize or douse your fire and avoid fuel that will create more smoke.   If you are experiencing problems with another camper you have three choices: 1) endure it 2) report them to the campground host or manager or 3) confront the offenders yourself.  Enduring it not a comfortable solution but is often the one with the least risk.  Reporting them to the host can sometimes solve the immediate problem but all too often creates hard feelings that continue to generate issues.   No one likes a tattle tail.  Diplomatically confronting the offenders is usually your best bet.  Sometimes they simply didn't realize they were causing a problem and are willing to make adjustments . I once had a bunch of teenagers arrive at primitive camp ground (no host) about 3:00 am. They set up right next to my motorhome, car doors wide open and stereos blaring at full volume while they blithely deployed bright lights and began setting up their camp. After about a half an hour of enduring the situation I finally go up and got dressed and approached them.  Though by then I was fuming, I did my best to use a diplomatic approach.   When I explained, as politely as my anger would allow, that they were disturbing me and my family they apologized, turned down the music, and redirected their lights.   I think I was lucky.  Loud groups often have already begun to form a kind of mob mentality that has a life of its own, independent of the normal behavior of the individuals.  On rare occasions we had some loud party types join one of our family-oriented Desert Rat outings in the Mojave Desert.   We would usually ask whoever invited them to ask them to hold it down and usually that worked pretty well without causing hard feelings.   In most cases people who really wanted to party all night long found other groups to go out in the future with without us having to say anything.

Sewing was once a basic skill familiar to both girls and boys.  Girls sewed clothes and household items, boys learned to sew leather to make harnesses, saddles, chaps, and shoes.  Today, with so few people making their own clothes, it is nearly a lost art.  But it can have a lot of benefits when camping.  Being able to mend torn clothes and repair tents and sleeping bags can prevent a minor accident from having major consequences.  Sewing is not difficult to learn but you should learn which types of stitches are best for various applications and have some knowledge of how to match thread size and material and needle to fabric and use for best results.  And, of course, you'll need to bring along a sewing kit with proper needles and a selection of threads.  A few extra buttons may also come in handy.  The kind of thread and style of needle you will differ depending on the repair.  You might  use the same needle and thead to repair a tear in your shirt or sew on a button, but you'll need a bigger needle and heavier thread to fix a torn tent.

Knot tying and use of twine can be handy skill around camp.   Ordinary binder's twine is cheap, easy to carry, and can be used for a myriad of tasks around camp.  If your belt breaks you can even use it to hold up your pants.   Enterprising campers can make camp furniture from firewood or other sticks. lashing them together with twine or natural cordage.  Some folks like to "rope off" all or parts of their camp sites to control unwanted traffic or create designated areas for specific activities.  It might be a good idea to refresh those knot-tying skills you may have learned in scouts when you were a kid.  Forgotten how?  There are lots of helpful instructions, many with videos, to be found on the Internet.  Knowing the right kind of knot to use for various situations can save a lot of time and frustration and avoid failure.

Keep learning new skills!

Spring Cleaning -- Again

April 3.  Its finally that time of the year again.  The winter snow has melted, trees and shrubs are starting to bud, and campers are getting anxious to get away.   No matter how carefully you stored your equipment and gear at the end of the last season, you'll need to invest a little time preparing for this year's camping adventures.  In this post we'll go over some reminders.  For more detail, see the previous post on Spring Cleaning.

Tents, sleeping bags, and other camping equipment that has been stored needs to be unpacked and inspected.   Even in the cleanest residential environments, vermin, mold, and insects can take their toll on stored gear.   If there was a little moisture left in tent or sleeping bag fabric when it was rolled up there is a good chance it will have developed the most interesting (and unpleasant) smell. Unroll your tents, awnings, canopies, sleeping bags, and patio mats and make sure they are clean and free from foul stains and odors.   Most fabrics can be cleaned with mild household cleaner, but take care not to over soak them.   A fabric freshener like Fabreze may help eliminate stale odors.  Have your sleeping bags dry cleaned.  Even if they may say they can be machine washed, dry cleaning will be less likely to cause the filling to mat and clump.  Tents may need to be re-waterproofed after cleaning with detergents.   Spray on waterproofing like "Camp Dry" is the easiest way to do this but liquids that are brushed on may provide heavier protection.  Pay special attention to the seams.  You may need to use a wax sealer stick on the seams to fill needle tracks that could leak.

Stoves, lanterns, and heaters need to be inspected and cleaned.  Check all fuel connections to make sure there are no leaks.  Clean both the inside and the outside of the glass globe on your lanterns.  Clean the fuel ports around the burners on your stoves.   Pumps on liquid fuel may need to be serviced.  Supply lines for propane appliances may have accumulated spider webs.  Spiders seem to like propane and are prone to build webs in the plumbing of stoves, lanterns, and BBQs.  You would think the pressure would simply blow the webs away, but they are surprisingly strong and adhere very well to the plumbing. Take care cleaning the orifices in propane burners.  Avoid shoving needles into them as they can damage the metal and alter the size and shape of the orifice.  Better to remove them and soak them in hot soapy water or vinegar and blow them out with a blast of compressed air.  If you can't clean them, replace them.

If you have any kind of RV you will need to de-winterize it -- unless you are fortunate enough to live in the sun belt where winterization isn't necessary.  Flush the RV antifreeze from all plumbing lines and fixtures.  You may need to clean the system with a diluted bleach solution to remove residual antifreeze tastes and any other odors that may have developed in storage.   Follow up this cleansing by rinsing with a baking soda solution and you're system will be ready to deliver great tasting water -- if you fill it with good,clean, filtered water to begin with.  If you have a portable hot water system you use tent camping, you'll need to de-winterize in a similar fashion.  Other post-storage tasks include inspecting the unit for any winter damage from elements, insects, or vermin. Check all tires, belts, and hoses and verify proper fluid levels.  Now is a good time to do a thorough cleaning and detailing inside and out.   Not only will your rig look nicer for the upcoming season, you will have a better chance of detecting any problems that might have gotten started so you can deal with them BEFORE you hit the road.  Be suspicious of unusual odors, stains, or softspots that might signify leakage and dry rot.  Be sure to inspect all the exterior seams and joints around windows and doors where temperature changes may have damaged the sealants.  Clean and service the air conditioners.  This includes cleaning the fins on the condensers outside and the filters inside.  Check and clean the refrigerator cooling coils and the burner.  Insects, rodents, and birds often find those places and use them for comfortable winter homes. 

Provisions need to be inspected, inventoried, and replenished.  Check for and replace damaged or leaking containers, outdated, stale, or used up items.  Be sure to check basic food items, cleaning supplies, medical supplies, and personal hygiene items.  Temperature swings over the winter months can take their toll on many products.   I've seen unopened bottles of hand lotion that had separated, spoiled and become unusable and foul smelling during winter storage.  Hot summer storage temperatures can do the same thing.  Check to make sure you aren't hauling around empty or near-empty containers that won't do you any good.  You will want to establish a "low re-order point" in your mind for each item.  Stuff that gets used a lot will need to be replaced when the container gets below about 25% while stuff that gets little use won't need to be replaced until is is nearly empty.

Tools and utensils need to be inspected and inventoried.  Missing or damaged items should be replaced.  Make sure all cutting tools (knives, axes, saws) are clean and sharp.  Check your kitchen drawers and your tool box to make sure anything you might have used last season or may have borrowed over the winter has been returned to is rightful place.

Inspect your camping wardrobe.   Look for old tears or stains or new damage that needs to be taken care of.  Insects may have found a home in your clothing over the winter.  Clothing that has been in storage over the winter, in your RV or your camp bins, may need to be laundered or at least freshened before use.  Sometimes all it needs is a session in a clothes dryer with some pleasant smelling dryer cloths and/or a shot of Fabreze.

Check your checklists.   Use existing checklists to go over your equipment to ensure you are ready for the new camping season.  Now is also a good time to review and update your checklists.  You may find you have things on the list that are no longer needed or that you found things during last year's activities that were missing from the checklist.   Hopefully you took care of the "to do" list from your last outing when you got home or over the winter, but if it is still hanging around waiting for attention, go down THAT list and make sure you bring everything up to date.   Re-creating the same list again this year will be very frustrating and waste a lot of time and energy.

Review your plans for this season.  Will you be repeating many or even all of last year's trips?   If not, are there any items related to deleted trips you can take out and leave home?  Are there new places or events or activities you want to include that may require additional equipment or supplies? Did you have everything you needed for all of your trips last year?  Will any of this year's planned activities require additional planning, equipment, or preparation?

Investing a little time now will ensure a much more enjoyable and frustration-free season. Making sure everything is ready to go will give you confidence and allow you to enjoy your outdoor time instead of spending it worrying, making repairs or "making do".

Portable Canopies

Some, but certainly not all, campgrounds have canopies or pavilions to provide shade and maybe some rain protection.  Some have small canopies at each site shading the picnic table, some have large, group pavilions.  Having a big patio awning on your RV is convenient and provides instant shade and protection from light rain.   For tent camping, or RVs without awnings, a standalone or portable canopy can offer some of the same advantages at a fraction of the cost.  A stand alone canopy can also be set up over your picnic table or other convenient places, so you might want one even if you do have a nice patio awning on your RV.  Canopies provide shade and even protection from light rain.  Sometimes you might even set them up over your tent to provide extra protection against both sun and rain.  You probably won't want to try to use them when its windy.  Even with sturdy ropes to secure them, wind can wreak havoc with most canopies.

Standard canopies come in a variety of sizes.  They are essentially like tents without walls.   They usually have corner poles and require guy ropes at each corner to hold them in place and often have at least one center pole.   I recently found one made like dome tent with a 10x10 open area with no center poles.   A "dining fly" is a kind of special version of a canopy.  Typically about 12x12 or 16x16, they are designed to be used over picnic tables -- hence the name "dining fly".   They are light weight, inexpensive and pretty easy to set up and take down. They work well for shade and can provide some protection from light rain but usually aren't well suited to stormier weather, like wind and heavy rain or snow.  About the only other disadvantage to them are the guy ropes, which can be a tripping hazard.  You might want to tie bright colored ribbons onto the ropes to make them easier to see and minimize people tripping over them, which can damage both the canopy and the tripee!  I sometimes slip a foam "swim noodle" over the poles and/or guy ropes to make them more visible and provide cushion if someone still bumps into them.  The cushion protects both the person, and to some extent, the poles.

EZ-ups are self contained canopies with the fabric often attached to the folding framework. They are free-standing and only require ropes in windy conditions. They usually don't have any kind of center poles so they're ideal for use where you need the interior free of obstructions.  They can be set up by one person but it is usually easier if you have two or more people to lift them into position so all sides come up at the same time.  They use a folding framework like those on scissor-lift to create a rigid frame.  Be careful not to get your fingers caught in any of the moving parts!  There are usually dozens of pinch points within the criss-crossed framework.  The legs telescope to adjust the height. This style canopy is usually pretty sturdy and will stand up to more use and more weather than light weight canopies and dining flies.   Because of the added infrastructure, you can expect to pay more for them than simple canopies and they'll be heavier and bulkier to transport.  EZ-ups make excellent booths for organizations or vendors and can be imprinted with club/family/company names.  Despite their name and reputation, the size and weight are sometimes a deterrent to casual use if you're moving your site daily but are really nice and sturdy for several day's use at a single location when car camping.

Sidewalls are available or can be fabricated for use with almost any canopy, turning it into an outdoor room.   Custom made panels will fit and look the best but ordinary, inexpensive tarps can often be used as privacy panels and as extra weather protection.   Netting can be used to keep out insects or to provide for partial shade without completely blocking the view or the breeze.  For one-time or occasional use, simply tie the tarp to the framework of the canopy or string a rope from pole to pole to anchor the tarp to.  If you use it frequently you may want to add straps or hooks or eyelets or velcro fasteners to make is easier and faster to install and remove the side walls.   Make sure the poles supporting your canopy are strong enough to handle the extra weight and wind force on side panels.

Fires or cooking under canopies is generally not a good idea.  Indians had fires in their wigwams, but their unique design is what made it feasible.  The very high center, with a "smoke hole" functioned like chimney to safely vent heat and smoke without setting the covering on fire or suffocating the occupants.  The steep sides and tall height kept the flammable walls well away from a well-controlled fire in the center.   Even using your camp stove or BBQ can generate enough heat under a low canopy to damage it or create a fire and/or health hazard if there isn't enough clearance and ventilation.  Smoke and other cooking fumes may stain or otherwise cling to the inside of the canopy, creating ugly stains and unpleasant smells.  If you REALLY need to cook under a canopy to get out of the weather, stay close to the edge and make sure you have adequate overhead and lateral clearance between the cooking appliance and any fabric to avoid a fire hazard. Try to set up so any prevailing breezes will carry smoke out from under the canopy and not back into your protected living area.   I've seen campfires under large tarps for large groups in cooler weather. The tarp was hoisted high above the fire and they left an opening for campfire smoke to escape.   It was a welcome respite from rainy afternoons for a large group as long a a shift in the wind didn't blow rain in through the "chimney" hole.  It also required some monitoring and dumping of pooling to make sure the weight of accumulated water didn't bring the whole thing crashing down on the occupants or drenching them if one side let loose.  This task provided productive activity for restless teens and endless amusement to everyone watching.

Screen rooms are a nice variation of a canopy, providing protection against marauding insects.   They can make an afternoon or evening in the outdoors more pleasant and make a good hot weather bedroom, protected from dew and insects, but with plenty of fresh air.  You can find back yard gazebos at home centers but they will probably be to big and heavy to easily transport for camping. Canopies and screen rooms designed for camping will be lighter weight and easier to transport.  You can buy -- or make -- panels to convert your RV awning into a screen room.  Commercial screen panels often are designed to provide some sun protection as well, creating a cooler space under the awning without completely blocking the view.

You might even set up a canopy over your tent.  Why would you do that?  A good tent, properly set up, shouldn't need a canopy, but there are times you may want to use one.  First of all, it will provide shade so your tent doesn't get as hot during the day in the sun.   It may also help keep things drier in rain and will reduce morning dew.  If there are street lights or parking lot lights or a full moon or if you want to take an afternoon nap, it can help reduce unwanted light.

Portable canopies are excellent for setting up booths at outdoor events.  Done right they not only provide protection for displays and occupants from sun and rain, they can be in and of themselves a billboard for the organization and the products and services offered.   Canopies with custom imprinted logos and signage can be fairly expensive, but if you're artistic, you might stencil on your own designs or hang banners on a standard canopy for branding.  Some typical uses include sign up tables, information booths, and marketing of merchandise.   Of course, they are excellent for family gatherings, especially if a sudden rain catches you by surprise!  Lacking a branded canopy you can usually hang vinyl banners to advertise your presence and/or products.

You may be able to stretch an ordinary tarp between RVs or trees or use some extra tent poles to create your own canopy.   One advantage to this approach is you can create a custom canopy of whatever size you need.  I've seen several large tarps used to cover almost an entire camp site for family activities, stretched between trees and vehicles.  Getting them to work for shade is pretty easy. Making them effective in rain requires more consideration. You need to be concerned about drainage and runoff.   Overlapping seams that are perfectly adequate for shade may allow rain through, so you'll have to make sure the slope of each section is adequate and the overlap is in the right direction to prevent water puddling and intrusion.

Lighting may be needed for evening and night time use.  Many times you can just hang your Coleman or other lantern from the center of the canopy to do the trick.  Make sure it isn't too close to the fabric and check it from time to time as the accumulated heat given off by any flame-powered lantern can be substantial.  For a more festive and decorative approach use patio lights along the edges or valances.  You can attach them to the fabric using awning hanger clamps or even ID card holders.

Umbrellas are another handy form of canopy for camping use.   Personal sized umbrellas are available that clamp to your camp chair to give you your own private shade.  If you can't find some with clamps, you might zip-tie them to the backrest.  If you want or need more shade, golf umbrellas are usually bigger than standard rain umbrellas.  Larger beach umbrellas might be used to accommodate more than one person.   Even bigger patio umbrellas can shade your picnic table.  I've seen patio umbrellas set up on flatbed trailers and in pickup beds to transform the platforms used to haul ATVs and dirt bikes into shady decks.  Most umbrellas are circular, but there are also square and rectangular umbrellas with offset bases that have the advantage of easy, portable setup and use while providing more effective shade for picnic tables and beside RVs.  Like canopies, umbrellas can also provide protection against light rain, but they are difficult to manage in strong winds.

Portable privacy walls may provide additional privacy and protections against wind and other weather in camp.   They usually install using pipes driven into the ground to hold the uprights and then are secured with guy-ropes to hold them in place.  They can be used with or without a canopy.

Any way you cut it, canopies add comfort and convenience to just about any camping activity. Even though I have permanently mounted awnings on both my motorhome and my enclosed motorcycle trailer, I carry a light weight awning for additional flexibility and extra shade when needed.  Since we did a lot of dirt biking in the Mojave Desert, extra shade was ALWAYS welcome and, on the rare occasions when we got a little rain it was good to have a place to get us and our dirt bikes under cover.

Cover up!

RV, OHV, and Camping Public Events

You may find it fun and interesting to attend various organized RV, OHV, and camping events. There are many types of events you can choose from.   Some are industry based events to showcase (and sell) new products.  Some are consumer or club based "camporees" that are just for fun.  There are numerous trade shows throughout the country.  State and federal agencies sometimes sponsor events to promote parks and other attractions.  You may get invited to a "free" weekend at a commercial campground.  These are usually tied to a mandatory presentation about their membership camping organization.  If you're already considering membership camping, it is a good way to get information about the resources and costs for the sponsoring organization and begin comparing offerings. In my experience the presentations are usually well done but too often I've found the sales pitch afterwards to be pretty pushy, usually hitting you with a "buy it now or never get another chance" scenario.  To me that is an immediate turn off and my queue to head for the door!  Other events may be sponsored by local communities, pubic agencies, camping organizations, etc.  Many are free or low cost.   Look for outings sponsored by local Good Sam chapters or other camping or OHV clubs for fun social activities with fellow campers.  Some events may require membership, but others may be open to visitors.   Camping with other folks with the same brand of RV or with the same interests as you adds a measure of fun, sharing, and education and can help you develop a network for assistance if needed.

Trade shows, put on by industry organizations, manufacturers, and dealers usually provide access to a variety of new products and services and are an excellent way to get some close up experience with new equipment.  It can be a lot of fun to wander from vendor to vendor and learn about new options. Many times they will offer special show pricing on products and services.  Sometimes you will see new products being introduced that aren't in the stores yet and it is a good time to snatch them up while you can.  Not all the good ideas you'll see at trade shows will make it into full production and distribution so keep that in mind.  If you see something you really like, you should probably grab it while you can.!  Trade shows usually include some workshops that are often very well attended.   Some are free or included in your admission.   Some premium workshops may charge an extra fee but they are usually well worth it if you are interested in the topic.  Some workshops are designed to demonstrate new products and, of course, they will want to sell you those products before you leave the area.   Cooking classes often have a lot of good ideas for camp menus and preparation but are sometimes a thinly veiled pitch for cookware or specialized camping food.  They may be sponsored by dealers of cook sets, utensils, or food products so expect them to include a sales pitch.  A big turn off for me is when they use the "you only get this one chance" line.  I figure if they have a good product but I'm not ready to buy it right now, there is no legitimate justification for such limitations.  In fact, even if I may have had some interest in making a purchase I may walk out when they start with the arm twisting tactics.  I don't think it is ever a good idea to reward bad behavior.

Forest Service, BLM, and State Parks agencies sometimes have open houses at various places to familiarize potential patrons with the facilities.  Or they may have booths at other RV/Camping/OHV events where you can learn about their offerings.   Camping at government facilities is usually reasonably priced, sometimes even free!

Pubic celebrations, local holidays, and festivals, are all good excuses for an RV/OHV/camping experience.   Even if you only "camp" in your RV for the day in the parking lot or along the street, your RV will make a good base of operations to explore the activities.  Watch for events sponsored by the US Forest Service, National Parks, your local county and state parks, and the Bureau of Land Management.  These events will usually be free and loaded with good information about local destinations for your outdoor exploration.   Sometimes commercial campgrounds will have an "open house" where you have an opportunity to explore their facility.  National parks may require a fee for some destinations and activities.

Camping clubs such as the RVer's Good Sam Club or local outdoor organizations based on specific interests such as hiking, fishing, bird watching, horseback or OHV riding, are an excellent opportunity to socialize with fellow campers with similar interests.   Many RV brands have their own clubs where you can share experiences and tips about your RV and your camping experiences.  Look for local organizations for your favorite activity too and check with rangers at county, state, and federal recreation areas to identify clubs that might be of interest to you and your family.  A good example is Tin Can Tourists, an all make and model vintage trailer and camper club. 

OHV clubs can often be found at the local and state levels and each may offer unique opportunities for group activities.  Events may include rides, service projects, and educational activities.  Sometimes an event may combine multiple functions.  Here in Utah we have the Utah Trail Machine Association (UTMA).  California has the California Off Road Vehicle Association (CORVA).  You can find similar organizations in almost every state.  Our Utah Trail Machine Association sponsors "High Five", a clean-up day at Five Mile Pass every spring.   In addition to being a service project where we pick up trash and clean out and rebuild fire pits throughout the Five Mile Pass Recreation Area, we provide rider education through literature and presentations by relevant organizations, then wrap up the day with a family ride to a local point of interest.  The stated goals of High Five are: public service, rider education, and family fun.  Many OHV or campground service projects follow a similar pattern.  Even without the family ride, doing a service project as a family can be a lot of fun as well as making a nice contribution toward supporting our outdoor resources. 

Family events lend themselves very well to RV and camping activities.   Family reunions make excellent camping activities.   An extended family may include people from many walks of life having various camping lifestyles.  An ideal location for a family event in cases like this would be a resort that includes cabins or motel rooms, RV spaces, and tent camping spaces.   That way, everyone can be comfortable and enjoy the family associations and activities rather than have to focus on adapting to an unfamiliar lifestyle.   In some cases you might have an extended family that all are RV/OHV fans.  In that case, you can have your event in a remote, primitive camping area where you can all take advantage of your OHVs.  Some things that will enhance the event and make it more convenient and fun for everyone might include staking out an area large enough to "circle the wagons" in the tradition of the Old West wagon trains, with a central campfire for shared activities.   If you have a large group, having an easily identified event headquarters, such as a labeled EZ-up and a portable PA system can help facilitate coordination of activities.   Schedule various activities to appeal to different age groups and interests.  A fun tradition at our family reunions was a gift exchange.   Each family was requested to bring a home-made craft gift to share with other families. You can be creative on how the gifts are distributed.   Sometimes you might use them for prizes for the winners of certain games or you might just put all the names in a hat and use a raffle format.  I still have in my motorhome the crocheted napkin holder we got at one family reunion and we use it regularly.  Family reunions are particularly good places to share family history and exchange information with people you may not see very often.

Sports events, such as auto racing and football, have become magnets for "tailgate parties".  These are social gatherings in the parking lot or at a nearby park before or after the event itself.   RVs are convenient for these gatherings since you have built in cooking, sanitation, and entertainment facilities, but you can have a fun tailgate party from the back of your pick up or even from the trunk of your car.  You will usually find you'll be more comfortable if you have some form of shade (RV awning or free-standing canopy) and comfortable chairs in addition to a supply of your favorite foods, snacks, and beverages.  Beer and wine are often favored at tailgate parties but be sure to check with local rules and regulations to avoid unpleasant consequences and always drink responsibly. After all, you'll be hitting the road soon after the party is over.

We found our RV was a good base of operations for attending our kids' weekend soccer games.   Not only did it allow us to comfortably transport our family of 8, we had ready access to first aid supplies, snacks, and clean or warmer/cooler clothes as needed.  Many of the recreational soccer venues lacked restrooms so having the RV nearby during a full day of going from game to game was a godsend.

Public shows are often presented by rangers at local parks.  They usually focus on the history, geology, or ecology of the local environment and are usually quite informative, educational, and entertaining.   Its a good way to become familiar with your local resources.

Public service projects can be fun for the whole family as well as productive.  These are good opportunities to teach our children respect for our public lands and demonstrate our appreciation to the land managers.  Service projects help us maintain our camping facilities and prove their value to the government organizations that control them.  Seldom used areas or often abused areas are likely to be eliminated during difficult economic times while frequently used facilities where users take an active interest in preserving and maintaining them have a better chance of survival or even improvement.  Most service projects involve simple tasks, like trash clean up, that the whole family can participate in.  If you have the skills and interest, trail maintenance projects are a lot of fun and often take you into some beautiful and more remote locations than you might ordinarily visit.  Many service projects include some recreational and educational activities where you can have fun and learn more about the local facilities and their history.   Can't find a project to suit you?  Organize your own!  Perhaps your family can volunteer to work with a local park ranger to perform needed maintenance and cleaning.   For larger areas, recruit your camping buddies or extended family to join you.  You'll need to coordinate your plans with the land managers in charge of where you want to work.   You will usually find they are grateful for your assistance and happy to work with you.

Your own camping events can be customized to fit the needs of you and your family.   If you still have kids in school, you'll probably want to plan your outings around holiday weekends or other times the kids are out of school.  Choose locations that are convenient and inexpensive and provide adequate facilities for your chosen activities.   Our family dirt bike outings in southern California eventually grew into a group we called Desert Rats.  We were an unofficial, family-oriented group of recreational riders who shared common riding and camping interests and schedules.   On some occasions only a few families showed up; at other times there were a lot!   One time we counted at least 175 people! The more people you are expecting, the better organized you need to be.   For two or three families we could change our location easily if we wanted to and could choose the trails and times we wanted to ride together.  For larger groups, we needed to ensure we staked out sufficient camping space for our group and usually posted signs along the highway and access roads guiding people to camp.  The signs don't have to be fancy.  A lot of times I see directions scribbled on paper plates with Magic Markers.  I once had some very nice reflective, aluminum signs made for my Desert Rat group.  The first time I used them half of them were stolen!  Since they were unique to our group I kind of think whoever stole them was just being malicious.  You will find it helpful to be consistent.  Whether it is just your own family planning and especially if you are sharing activities with other people, maintaining a recognizable and consistent pattern will usually make things easier. For instance, you might want to use the same camping/staging location for a particular holiday every year so everyone knows where to go.  We also took advantage of electronic communications to send out announcements and maps for events via email and posted activities on our our web site (www.desertrat.org).

Have fun!

Tool Safety

Tools are absolutely necessary for some tasks and make many other tasks easier.  Tools are used to extend your reach or multiply your strength or protect body parts.  Amost any task can be almost fun using the right tools.  Conversely, almost any task, no matter how simple or easy, can be onerous, a pain in the neck -- or about 2' lower -- and even dangerous, using the wrong tools.  Using tools correctly is usually pretty safe, but misuse or abuse can be dangerous, resulting in damage to tools and equipment and personal injury.

Use the right tool for the job.  Banging on something with the end of a wrench instead of going back to your tool box for a hammer may sometimes seem like it will save time, but in the long run, damage to the item and/or to the tool will end up costing you time, money, and frustration and increases the chances of you hurting yourself.  And when you do use a hammer, use the right hammer.  A claw hammer is designed for driving and pulling nails.   A ball peen hammer is designed for pounding metal.  Claw hammers may chip when used to pound metal and ball peen hammers may slip or ricochet when driving nails.  It is tempting to use large screwdrivers for prying, but they aren't built for that and may bend or break, often damaging parts -- both on your equipment and on your own body -- as well as ruining the screwdriver.   Use a pry bar instead.  Using a wrench or socket that "almost" fits a nut or bolt will probably result in rounding off the nut or bolt or stripping the tool, usually resulting in skinned and bruised knuckles too.  Make sure you have the right type of tools (SAE or metric) and are using the right size.   Some metric sizes are good matches for some SAE sizes; some are not.  For example, a 14mm metric and a 9/16" SAE are pretty much interchangeable, but a 1/2" SAE is smack in the middle between a 12mm and 13 mm metric.  A 1/2" wrench will sort of fit a 12mm nut or bolt and a 13mm tool will almost fit a 1/2" fastener.  Either combination is recipe for stripping the fastener and/or the tool -- and bloodying some knuckles along with filling the air with expletives!  Screwdrivers come in different sizes to fit different sized and shaped slots in screws. Using the wrong size or shape often doesn't work at all and significantly increases the chances of stripping the head or breaking the screwdriver.  Damaged fasteners, broken tools, and bloody knuckles are never a good thing and can usually be avoided or at least minimized by simply using the right tool in the first place.

Keep your tools clean and in good repair.  Dirty, rusty, greasy, dull, bent, or broken tools are dangerous to use.  Greasy tools may cause your hand to slip, usually resulting in the very common problem of bloody knuckles and a string of expletives you surely don't want your kids to hear.  Dirty, rusty, or damaged tools may not fit properly, further increasing the risk of breaking the tool or damaging the fastener -- or other parts of the equipment or you. You are more likely to be cut by dull tools than sharp ones. You will find yourself using excessive force to compensate for dull tools, often leading to bouncing tools, loss of control,and serious injury.  If you do scrape your knuckles, take care of it right away. Clean the wound, apply antiseptic, and bandage it properly. Hand tools can easily become contaminated with germs that you don't want in your bloodstream!  A bleeding hand will also be slippery, increasing your chance of further injury and a proper bandage will help control bleeding as well as protecting the wound.

When swinging things like hammers, hatchets, and axes, make sure there no people or obstacles within range of your swing.  Hold the tool by the head with handle extended and slowly swing it 360 degrees around you and over you head to be sure your working area is clear.   Constantly monitor your work area to be sure no one enters the danger area or to make sure you haven't moved into danger.  Be especially cautious when there are kids around.   When we were kids, my younger brother got a nasty bash in the head when he leaned over my grandfather's shoulder to see what he was doing while he was driving nails. Grandpa swung his hammer back briskly to get a good whack on a 16d nail and it caught my poor brother smack in the face.

Dull tools will make your work harder.  Ever try chopping a log with a dull axe?  I hate the way it just bounces!  I recall the story of an elderly volunteer hoeing weeds at a church garden.  He worked slowly and steadily.  He had a file in his back pocket and frequently stopped to dress the edge of his hoe.   He was constantly teased by a young father and a teenager who both hacked away at the weeds with youthful vigor, but when the day was done, the old man with his slow, steady pace with a sharp hoe had cleared twice as many rows as the energetic man and his teenage son had together!  And with a fraction of the sweat.

Keep your axes, hatchets, and knives sharp.  A dull tool is more likely to ricochet or bounce, hurting you or a bystander. You also have to use more force when the tool is dull, further increasing the risk and extent of injuries in addition to wearing you out faster.

Shovels and rakes are handy for many campground tasks.   Shovel edges become chipped, dull, or bent over time and occasionally need to be sharpened to maintain effectiveness.  Bent edges should be pounded flat and dull ends sharpened with a file.  The teeth on rakes sometimes need to be straightened.  Bent or pinched teeth aren't efficient or effective.  Long-handled tools like shovels, rakes, and brooms, should be stored in an upright position.  Wooden  handles should be kept smooth and treated with linseed oil to prevent splinters.  If you leave them lying on the ground they become trip hazards and, if you step on the blade, may flip the handle up, injuring you or someone else. Always store a rake with tines facing back away from you when you lean it against something.  If you step on tines pointed your way, you'll get a nasty bump in the face when the handle snaps forward.  Some good ways to store long-handled tools include drilling a hole in the handle to either hang the tool on a nail or insert a thong to hang it by or by using a length of large PVC or ABS pipe to slide the handles into to keep the tools upright and secure.   If you use pipes for holders outdoors, make sure they can drain out the bottom so they don't fill up with water when it rains and damage the handles of your tools.

Power tools can make many tasks easier.  A cordless drill-driver is probably one of the handiest power tools for RVing and camping.  Be sure to store them properly in their original cases where they will not be exposed to water or extreme temperatures.  Keep the batteries charged between trips. Organize your screwdriver and drill bits so you can easily find what you need when you need it.  As always, keep the tool and its accessories clean.  Be sure to follow your manufacturer's instructions for lubrication and other maintenance.   Most drill-drivers have adjustable clutches to help you avoid over-driving screws.  Take advantage of this feature to avoid stripping fasteners or countersinking them too far and damaging the material.  Ordinary corded power tools can sometimes be used, but cordless tools are far more convenient and safer.  Corded tools require shore power or a generator. Cordless just need to have been properly charged before you leave home.  Most modern cordless batteries should easily last through a weekend campout. Take care not to use corded tools in the rain or other wet conditions.  One of my son's has a cordless Snap On brand impact wench for his work  that makes many maintenance tasks on dirt bikes a lot easier in camp but I find it too pricey for my recreational budget.  I waited for a good coupon on a "Chicago Electric" cordless impact wrench at Harbor Freight.  It should hold up well enough for occasional use on dirt bike outings if I can remember to charge it before each trip and it sure makes field repairs easier and faster.

Wear proper personal protective equipment as needed.    Rubber gloves and eye protection are "must haves" for battery work.  Mechanics gloves will help protect your hands yet still give you good dexterity for most wrenching tasks.   For most mechanical tasks, heavy work gloves will be more of a hazard than a help but they are essential for shoveling and axe work.  Gloves not only protect your skin and prevent blisters, but let you apply more force without pain and usually improve your grip.  Wear eye protection when chopping, grinding, or using a chain saw.  Wear ear plugs when using loud equipment.  Aprons are always a good idea for BBQing, other cooking tasks, and welding.  I like to keep a shop coat handy to protect my riding gear from dirt and grease when I have to stop to work on our dirt bikes in the field.

Proper tool storage is often overlooked or underrated.  A lot of folks just toss all their tools into one tool box.  That might work for a while, but eventually you will learn is is worth the time to carefully organize and store your tools so you can find the easily when you need them.  It can also help to keep them from getting damaged if they are stored correctly.  "A place for everything and everything in its place" is a good rule to follow.  My kids think I'm OCD about putting away my tools but over the years I've found it pays off to invest a little bit of time keeping them in order instead of endless searching for something when I need it.

To summarize:  use the right tool for every job. Use all tools correctly.  Keep your tools clean and in good repair. Store your tools logically and consistently:  "A place for everything and everything in its place".   Keep your work area is clean and safe. Wear proper personal protective equipment.

Tool up!