Is There Anyone Who SHOULDN'T Go RVing or Camping?

There are few reasons anyone who wants to shouldn't be able to go RVing or camping.  There may be some restrictions on certain activities or locations based on diagnosed medical conditions or physical disabilities, but for the most part, the only people who shouldn't go RVing or camping are those who don't want to.

If you have a medical condition where you are told to avoid flying or other high altitudes, you will want to restrict your RVing and camping to elevations that are safe for you, but it doesn't mean you have to sit at home!  There are plenty of beach venues that literally put you at sea level so elevation would not be a problem.  Allergies may be sometimes used as an excuse to not go camping but with modern medicine and careful choice of destinations, most allergy related problems can be mitigated.  If you or someone in your group have been given restrictions on physical activities due to injuries or illness, avoid strenuous tasks like hiking, cycling, or chopping firewood.  There are still many fun and beneficial things you can do around camp.  Anyone on dialysis will need to stay close enough to home or their dialysis center to maintain their schedule.  You may need adjust your plans or have special equipment to accommodate the needs of people in your party with physical disabilities.

If you have zero experience RVing or camping, seek out experienced companions to get you started.  I would not recommend taking off on an unassisted camping trip if you've never been camping before.  There are certain activities that can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing or ignore prescribed safety precautions.  My father-in-law singed off his eyebrows trying to light a furnace in his micro-mini motorhome by not following the lighting instructions properly.  Lighting camp stoves and lanterns is generally a pretty safe procedure, but it can sometimes be a problem for the novice.  Even building a simple campfire safely requires some knowledge and practice.  Setting up tents and awnings requires a certain amount of skill.

Does advancing age mean you've got to give up camping?  I sure hope not!  I've seen plenty of active retirees in their 70s and 80s and 90s enjoy the RVing and camping experience.  My own grandmother traveled with my Mom and Dad and younger sister in their mini-motorhome until she was in her 80s.  She found it quite comfortable and a lot less stressful than being left at home.  It helped that they involved her in  tasks around camp that made her feel useful was well as welcome.   At 75 she enjoyed riding on the back of my enduro dirt bike (yes, it had footpegs to carry a passenger).  You may reach an age where it would be a good idea to leave the driving to someone else, but that applies to other activities too, like routine grocery shopping.  My Mom just turned 90 and although she still holds a valid driver's license and keeps it up to date she has voluntarily stopped driving.  Although she passes her driving tests with flying colors, she is uncomfortable that her eye sight and reaction time aren't what they used to be and would rather not take any chances. But she still enjoys trips to the beach or the forest with other family members at the wheel.  As avid dirt bikers, my wife and I strongly subscribe to the idea that "You don't stop riding (or camping) because you get old; you get old because you stop riding (or camping)."

Physical disabilities may impose some restrictions on what you can do, but just falling under ADA rules doesn't mean you have to stay home.  I saw an OHV activist climb out of a wheelchair to ride his ATV in a pro-OHV parade.  And no, it wasn't an ATV accident that put him in the wheelchair.  Tow vehicles and motorhomes can be equipped with wheelchair lifts and other adaptations to make them accessible to disabled persons.  The aisle space in older RVs may not accommodate wheel chairs, but in newer models with slide-outs it will be less of a problem, although unless the unit was designed with wheelchair access in mind you may still encounter tight spots.  In a pinch (pun intended) you might be able to buy a narrow wheelchair like those used on airlines that may be able to negotiate the tight spaces inside an RV.  Some folks find they can navigate inside an RV either using a walker or cane or just the cabinets and walls of the RV for support.  Assist handles might be installed to facilitate getting in and out of an RV and negotiating the aisle and bathroom.

Allergies may impose some restrictions on where you go, but they certainly don't have to shut down all camping activity.  While it would be unwise to knowingly plant yourself in the middle of batch of vegetation that triggers your allergies, there is enough variety in outdoor environments that just about everyone should be able to find a place where they can avoid severely unpleasant reactions.  If I were allergic to bees I wouldn't visit a honey farm!  Modern allergy medication used correctly can usually relieve most of the symptoms.

Some people view pregnancy as imposing many restrictions on mothers to be.  But it certainly doesn't have to be that way and it doesn't have to put a moratorium on your camping!  My wife continued RVing and camping with the family and even riding her dirt bike through most her her pregnancies, until just a few weeks before delivery.  Of course you don't want to take an unreasonable risks for either the baby or the mother, but routine camping shouldn't be a problem unless there are already extenuating circumstances that limit the mother's activities.  As a kind of extension of camping during pregnancy, you don't have to stop camping when the baby comes.  Bring him/her along!  We did, and all our kids LOVE RVing, OHVing, and camping to this day.  Be aware that you will need to attend to the special needs of baby.  Make proper preparations and allow adequate time for addressing their needs and you'll --  and they'll -- be fine.  Supercross star James "Bubba" Stewart got his first motorcycel ride on his dad's lap when he was only about 2 days old!

So, unless you're under doctor's orders to avoid camping or you absolutely hate being in the outdoors or hate traveling or hate campfires, there is no reason why you shouldn't go camping.  Even if you get car sick it doesn't mean you have to stay home.  Just take appropriate medication and avoid reading while riding and you should do fine.

Time for that getaway!

Changing a Tire

I am surprised how many drivers I meet who have never changed a tire.   I suppose I shouldn't be.  With today's convenient road side assistance programs and cell phones it is easy to get professional help when you need it.  And many times it is prudent if not absolutely necessary, even for folks who are experienced and know how to do it.  But it still surprises me that any driver has never actually changed a tire themselves.  Flat tires are a common occurrence and certainly happen when you least expect it and often where you have little or no access to professional services.  Knowing how to change a tire may be especially important for campers and RVers who are frequently in remote areas where services may be very expensive if they are available at all.   I have been in situations where road side assistance either wasn't available or wouldn't come off road to help me.

Changing a tire on a tow vehicle or moderate sized RV is much like changing the tire on an ordinary car or truck.  In fact, many times the tow vehicle IS an ordinary car or truck.  It would be a good idea to practice changing a tire at home where you can choose a safe location that is out of traffic to learn the process and develop your skills so you'll be prepared out on the road.  Don't wait until you have a flat tire.  You can practice any time.  One difference is when changing a flat tire you will probably have to jack your vehicle up a little higher to install the good tire after you have removed the flat.  Another is a flat tire is likely to be hot to the touch and may have physical damage that makes it dangerous to handle.  Wear good leather work gloves when handling an actual flat for sure and, to help build the right habits, wear them while practicing.  When practicing be sure to actually find, get out, and install the spare so you will be familiar with the procedure when you have a flat out on the highway.

Small to medium size travel trailers are pretty similar too, just be sure to block the unaffected wheel(s) to keep the vehicle from rolling when you jack it up.  Trailers may or may not have designated jacking spots like those found on most passenger cars.  You need to place the jack under the frame (not the body).  Jacking under the body is likely to tweak the structure, perhaps separating the body from the frame and causing expensive and permanent damage.  Jacking under the axle is very stable but often doesn't allow the wheel and tire to drop down enough out of the fender well to be removed.

Changing a tire on a large RV is more like changing the tire on a large truck or bus and is often best left to professionals.  I've seen the time when experienced professionals had trouble even loosening the lug nuts on my big Class A diesel pusher motorhome.  I ended up having to drive slowly several miles on a flat tire to the towing service shop where it took a 3/4" air impact wrench powered by a very large compressor to loosen the lug nuts.

With today's road side assistance programs, why would you need to know how to change a tire yourself?  Good question.  First of all, many roadside assistance programs will not service locations that are off pavement and if you do any boondocking you may find yourself outside of service range.  And what if your roadside assistance has expired?  I've seen that happen to many people.  I had my own AAA service suspended for a year when my online banking service failed to deliver a scheduled payment.  Knowing I had scheduled the payment, I thought it was in full force and didn't find out it wasn't until my wife needed it one day months later and found it wasn't active!  Bad news!  I was once in a location with my big motorhome where there was no local contractor for my road side assistance.  They were able to find an independent service but I had to front about $350 for the call and wait weeks for reimbursement from my road side assistance program.  Had I not had the $350 I would have been forced to try to change the tire myself.

Safety is your biggest concern when changing a tire.   Your first order of business will be to find a safe place to pull off the road.  You need to get as far out of traffic as you can without getting into an unsafe position where your vehicle may lean or get stuck.  By the way, undesirable as it may be to drive on a flat tire, stopping in an unsafe location to try to save an already damaged tire is dangerous and  foolish.  Even though a flat might be due to something simple like nail in the tire, by the time you notice it additional damage is likely to have already occurred and the tire might not be salvageable anyway.  Always exercise caution when stopping with a flat tire.  It is going to affect handling and braking so take it slow an easy.  Once your are safely stopped, it is always a good idea to put out a series of reflectors or flares behind your rig to warn approaching drivers.  To decide where to place the flares or other signal devices, the placement of the first flare (furthest from vehicle) use the posted speed limit - convert that to feet then multiply by a factor of 4 - (30 mph = 30 x 4 or 120 ft).  If the speed limit is over 50 mph, add 100 feet  (50 mph = 50 x 4 =200 + 100 = 300 ft).  At 60 mph put the first flare 340 feet behind your vehicle.  Figure an average pace of about 2 1/2 feet.  Start off stepping out with your left foot.  Every time your right foot comes down will be about 5 feet.  You might want to measure your own stride for better precision.  Ideally divide the distance in thirds and place additional flares or signals at 1/3 and 2/3 the distance to the first flare.    Be aware that road flares are essentially burning metal and can easily ignite spilled fuel, so do not light them near an accident where fuel spills have or may occur nor in an area where fire restrictions are in affect.  The next step is to make sure the vehicle won't roll.  Set the parking brake firmly AND chock the wheel kitty corner from where you'll be changing the tire.  Put on your  work gloves before chocking the wheels.  The chocks are often dirty or may have sharp edges.  It is especially important to chock the wheels when changing a rear tire since most emergency brakes operate on the rear wheels or drive line and lifting even one wheel of the ground and possibly reducing the weight on the other may allow the vehicle to roll.  Locate your lug wrench and jack and prepare them for use.  Use the lug wrench to "break loose" the lug nuts before you begin jacking the vehicle.   Otherwise the wheel may just spin when you try to loosen the lug nuts with the wheel off the ground.  If you have limited strength or the lug nuts are exceptionally tight you may need an extension on the handle of the lug wrench to get sufficient leverage to loosen them.  I've seen special weighted lug wrenches that act kind of like a hand powered impact wrench but they're large, heavy, expensive, and hard to find.  Sometimes you can use a piece of galvanized or iron pipe that fits over the handle of the lug wrench.  You may have to remove a wheel cover or individual lug nut covers to reach the actual lug nuts.  Place the jack carefully according to the vehicle manufacturer's instructions.  Almost all vehicles have designated jacking points.  If you are using a different jack than the one supplied with the vehicle and it won't fit the designated jacking points, locate the jack under a strong suspension component such as a leaf spring mounting point or the vehicle frame.  Monitor the vehicle for unwanted movement as you begin jacking it up.  It if starts to lean too much, starts to roll, or the jack starts to tip, STOP immediately and correct the problem before proceeding.   Correction might include adjusting the position of the jack and/or doing a better job of chocking the wheels.   Jack the vehicle high enough to remove the tire and install the spare.  You may be able to remove the flat tire long before the vehicle is high enough to install the fully inflated spare.  That's OK.  Go ahead and get the old one off and position the new one so you can see how much higher you have to go to install it.  Only jack the vehicle up just enough to get the new tire on without scraping it on the lug nuts or having to force it at the bottom.  About a half inch or so clearance below the tire is about right for normal installation.  Once you have the new tire in place, re-install the lug nuts.  Unless the threads are damaged you should be able to spin the lug nuts down until the conical portion engages the holes in the wheel to center the wheel.  Tighten the lug nuts as much as you can  using the lug wrench before lowering the jack, then finish tightening them fully after the wheel is back on the ground.  Ideally they should be torqued to factory specifications but almost no one (include tow truck drivers) carry a torque wrench.   Tighten them as much as you can pushing near the very end of the lug wrench furthest away from the nut.  If the wheel covers are held in place by the lug nuts you'll need to install them before putting on the lug nuts too.  Don't attempt to fully tighten them until you have the wheel back on the ground, but do tighten them enough to seat them in the holes in the wheel and cinch the wheel into place before lowering the vehicle.  When it is back on the ground, fully tighten the lug nuts.  Unless you are extraordinarily strong you should probably tighten them as much as you can with your hands and arms.  DO NOT jump on the lug wrench or use a long extension on the handle as this may exert sufficient force to strip them!  If you are of diminutive build and strength, the use of an extension might we warranted, but take care not to over tighten and strip the nuts.  Then reinstall any snap on wheel covers, hub caps, or lug nut covers, gather up and store your tools and flat tire, and you should be ready to go.  Be careful handling the flat tire.  Many times the steel wires inside may have been exposed and they can inflict serious injuries.  Wear sturdy work gloves.  They will also protect your hands from the grime you can expect on a flat tire.

Personal Protective Equipment for changing a tire may include gloves, coveralls, and a reflective vest.  Gloves are needed to protect your hands against not only dirt and grime but sharp edges you are likely encounter on a damaged tire.  Coveralls protect your clothing.  A Class II DOT safety vest will help make you more visible to passing motorists.  This is especially important if you are changing a tire on the left side of your vehicle, putting you next to traffic.  I prefer the Class III DOT vest which is designed with additional reflective material for extra nighttime visibility.  Both types of vests are fairly inexpensive and available at safety equipment shops.  You may also find them in auto parts and department stores like Walmart.  The Class II vest is only appropriate for day times activities; you should have a Class III vest for proper nighttime visibility and the Class III vest can be used in daylight too.

Changing a tire on a motorcycle or other OHV usually involves patching or replacing a damaged inner tube.   You will usually need some kind of stable stand to lift the vehicle up so the damaged tire is hanging free.  An ATV or side-by-side is much like changing the tire on a car -- if you have a spare to put on.  For a motorcycle, raise the vehicle and place it on a stable stand, then loosen the axle nut and remove the axle.  Carefully slide the disc brake (if so equipped) off of the caliper.   With drum brakes you will have to disconnect the brake cables so you can slide the wheel off with the brake assemble still inside the drum.   On rear wheels you may have to slide the whole wheel assembly forward to loosen and remove the chain.  Once you have the wheel and tire assembly removed, you will need to separate the tire from the wheel.  You can do this with the tire and wheel laying flat on the ground.  Securing it to a stand at waist level will be more comfortable.  Then, locate the rim lock and loosen the nut the holds it in place.  Then press down firmly on the top of the rim lock bolt to push it down inside the tire and away from the bead.  Removing the tire from the wheel requires special tools called tire irons. You will need at least two.  Three or a special tool called a "Bead Buddy" makes it easier.  When pushing the tire irons between the tire bead and the rim and leveraging the bead away from the rim, take care not to insert them in too  far and pinch the tube or you'll do more damage to the tube and may be forced to replace it when the tool rips a hole too big to patch.  Using two or three tire irons, work your away around the tire until the bead is entirely on the outside of the rim.  Make sure the bead opposite where you are working is down in the middle of the rim to give you the slack you need to lever the bead over the rim. Here is where a "Bead Buddy", an extra tire iron, or a second pair of hands comes in handy.  You should now be able to pull out the inner tube to repair or replace it.  If you are going to replace the tire you will need to remove it entirely from the rim, working the second bead over the rim using the tire irons like you did the first one.  Remember, making sure the bead opposite where you are working is down in the middle of the rim will give you the slack you need to lever the bead over the rim.   Inner tubes can sometimes be patched using simple self-adhesive bicycle tire patches but I prefer to use hot-vulcanizing patches.  The patches in this system come attached to little diamond-shaped metal trays.  You position the patch where you want it and hold it in place with a special clamp that is part of the patching system, then light the material in the tray to heat the patch in place.  Allow the whole shebang to cool for a while after the tray stops burning, then carefully pull the tray away from the tube and the patch.  Vulcanized patches not only stick better, they tend to be heavier.  When installing an inner tube, either one you have patched or a brand new one, put a little air (but not too much) in it to give it some shape first.  Then dust it with talc or baby powder so it doesn't stick to the rim or the tire. I usually put the valve stem in first and reinstall the valve cap so it doesn't get pulled back inside the wheel while maneuvering the rest of the tube in place. Some heavy duty tubes have a nut on the valve stem to hold it securely in place and make sure it doesn't get pulled at an angle.  Carefully work the tube inside the tire before levering the bead back over the rim.  Take care not to pinch the tube with the tire irons.  Check to make sure the tube isn't pinched between the tire and the rim and then inflate the tire.  You will usually have to over-inflate it way above the operating pressure to get the bead to seat on the rim.  Usually you will hear the bead "pop" into place.  Inspect the entire circumference of the wheel to make sure the bead is fully seated before re-installing the wheel on the vehicle.  If there are still gaps, you might try bouncing the tire on the ground at that point to get the bead to pop into place or just keep applying more air pressure until it does go into place.   If all else fails, you may have to remove the tire again and lubricate the bead and reinstall the tire.  When the bead is seated adjust the pressure to the desired operating pressure and re-install the wheel.  Be sure the line up the brake disc properly with the caliper and make sure it doesn't twist and bind as you slide the wheel into place.  Be sure to reinstall the brake assembly into the drum for drum brakes and then  remember to reconnect the brake cable.  On rear wheels you'll need to slide the wheel way forward of the proper operating position to get the chain back in place on the sprocket.  Then install the axle.  Once everything is in place, push the wheel back until the proper chain tension is achieved.  Lacking a specific measurement I look for about two fingers worth of movement in the middle of the chain.  Then tighten the axle bolts and you should be ready to ride.  Patching ATV or side-by-side tire requires much the same procedure, but you usually don't have sprockets  attached to the wheels and you may have to loosen and remove the brake calipers.  The large tires used on these vehicles may be difficult to change using ordinary tire irons.  Sometimes it even requires professional pneumatic tire changing machines to remove and reinstall ATV and side-by-side tires.  Here is a link to a video claiming to be The Easy Way To Remove A Dirt Bike Tire.

Changing bicycle tires follows a procedure similar to changing a motorcycle tire but it will be a lot easier.   Bicycle tires are softer and the larger wheel diameter and smaller tire profile gives you more slack to work with.  Bicycle tire irons are much smaller and often have notches in them so they can be clipped to the spokes to keep one in place while you more another, making it easier for one person to do the job.  Take care when inflating bicycle tires.  It isn't unusual to pop them if you try to put in too much air.  You do want to make sure the bead is "set" -- that is, seated tightly on the rim.  Sometimes you have to over inflate the tire a bit to get the bad to "pop" into place.  Then let out just enough air to reach your desired riding pressure.

Keep rolling, rolling, rolling!

Pre-trip RV Route Checking

It may not always be possible, but when it is, try to check out your routes before you try to take your RVs on them.   Its not a bad idea for tent campers either, but RVs are larger, more vulnerable and more difficult to manage if you encounter damaged roads or detours.  If you are only going to be driving on freeways or major highways you probably only need to determine if there are any construction detours or traffic accidents that will impede your travel.  You can usually do that on your state DOT web site or via Tripadvisor.com.   But whenever you move off onto secondary roads and especially if you expect to be traveling on dirt or gravel roads to reach remote campgrounds or dispersed camping sites you need to get as much information about the route as possible.  When you can, take a drive in a car, motorcycle, or better yet a 4WD vehicle to familiarize yourself with your planned route before you head down the road in your motorhome or towing your trailer.  Its a lot easier to avoid a bad situation -- or get out of one -- in a smaller vehicle and then plan another route or another trip for your "big rig" if you encounter difficult terrain.  I like to use my 4wd pickup for pre-trip route checks.  That way, if I do encounter mudslides other difficulties I will be better prepared.  If you can't pre-drive your route, be sure to talk to someone who knows it well enough to advise you if it is compatible with your rig, preferably someone who as driven something similar to your rig on the same route.  Previewing your route is especially important if any segments will be in primitive areas where you may be exploring poorly maintained roads or even going off-road but it is still a good idea to checkout your planned on-road routes too.  Maps don't always identify weight, height, or length limitations or other situations, like road construction, mudslides, or repairs, that might make RV travel inadvisable.  When you can, check out the route via the Internet.  Any construction or even accidents along most major highways will usually be reported on state Department of Transportation (DOT) web sites, allowing you to make alternate plans to avoid lengthy, boring, fuel and time wasting delays.

Make sure your information is up to date.  A recent rain may have washed out bridges or roads or there may be recent construction activity so even when headed to places you've been before, get up to date information before you leave home.  I once encountered a whole section of a familiar paved state highway I often used that had become impassable from rain that came down while I was en route.  Much of the road was covered with mud and rocks that had been washed down and most of the entire lane on the downhill side of the road had been completely washed away.

Not long ago we fell into the unknown route trap and ended up with a lot of regrets.  We had asked someone who should have been knowledgeable (but wasn't) if the route was OK for our big motorhome and motorcycle trailer (total length about 55').   Following the instructions we were given, we started down a dirt road into a big sand wash to locate an OHV group we were supposed to be camping and riding with based solely on some simple but incomplete directions from a fellow rider.  There were already several groups of large RVs camped below so we assumed there was reasonable access.  Bad assumption!  What appeared to be the main access road down into the wash petered out without warning after a few  hundred yards down the hill.  We soon found ourselves on a narrow, rocky, sandy "road" (more of a goat path actually) that promised great trials coming back out and delivered some rather nasty tweaking of our rig on the way down.  We did in fact get stuck in the deep sand trying to get back out.  Thanks to the skills of some good Samaritans from a nearby camp who happened to be experienced over-the-road truck drivers, we were able to get our rig (40' motorhome and 15' enclosed motorcycle trailer) towed and backed down out of the sand so we could drive out another way.  Turns out there were at least three paths down the hill and none of them were very compatible with a rig our size.  By the time we got out, we had leaks near the water heater, both holding tanks were dripping, and the rather expensive electric tongue jack on our motorcycle trailer was damaged beyond repair.  We could have saved ourselves a lot of aggravation and expense by walking or otherwise checking out the route prior to committing ourselves in our 40' motorhome and 15' enclosed motorcycle trailer.  We were lulled into a sense of security by the presence of many large rigs clustered in several groups on the valley floor, but obviously they must have chosen a different route than we did, probably one that entered through one end of the valley.  The one we drove down appeared to be the "main road" when we started on it but it quickly petered out to become inadequate for just about anything but an OHV, 4 wheel drive vehicle, or a mountain goat!  By then there was no place to turn around and backing back up the hill wasn't feasible.  In more the 30 years of desert camping in the Mojave Desert we never encountered so many problems total even though we drove into some very remote staging areas, but in looking back, we were either following experienced campers or had become familiar with new areas via our dirt bikes before we attempted to drive our motorhome into previously unknown remote locations.  More recently we have pre-driven two different venues for dirt bike outings in our 4x4 pickup, selecting routes and campsites that were comfortably accessible to our rig.  We made each trip of exploration into an afternoon sight-seeing tour and picnic and when we returned another time with our motorhome and trailer for an extended outing we could do so with confidence and without incident.  No doubt many of the big RVs in the valley had entered from some valley floor entrance at either end that we were unaware of.

One thing to watch for even on level terrain, are diagonal ruts crossing the road.  They don't need to be extremely deep to cause rather severe rocking and tweaking of large rigs, with sometimes devastating results.    Ruts that are perpendicular to the road are less likely to tweak your RV, unless you hit them too fast, but diagonal ruts will twist the body severely, even at very low speeds.  You can drive slowly over ruts perpendicular to your direction of travel but diagonal ruts will twist your rig no matter how slow and easy you cross them.  I once saw a 4x4 mini-pickup stuck in some diagonal ruts.  The body was perfectly level but the front and rear axles were at right angles to each other with the right front wheel and left year wheel in a deep ditch and the other two wheels up on the level.  Some of the least of the problems are the spilling of contents of cabinets.  Having a refrigerator pop open usually offers even more messy problems to deal with.  Ruts that cross the road at approximately right angles let both front wheels and both rear wheels drop in and out of the depression at the same time.  This causes tilting forward and backward but diagonal ruts drop just one wheel at time, causing twisting and tweaking as well.  Tweaking of the body can crack the fiberglass or aluminum skin, sometimes cracks windows and windshields, and even damage the structural framing.  It can also crack plumbing and holding tanks creating messy and expensive repairs.  If you encounter diagonal ruts that you can't avoid, be sure to ease through them as slowly as possible so the tweaking is as gentle as you can make it.  Sudden, violent twists are sure to cause damage.  More gentle twisting might create less damage, but any radical twisting, no matter how slow and gentle, is likely to break something.  Shifting contents in cabinets, drawers, and tool boxes can occur even on normal roads and can be a really big problem on rough roads.  Take extra care opening cabinets after any kind of violent maneuvers to avoid getting a face full of the contents.  The stuff in drawers may shift to where the drawer can't even be opened.  In that case about all you can do is jiggle it as much as you can to try to get things to settle enough to get it open -- unless there is a way to reach into it from the side or back from an adjacent cabinet or by removing an adjacent drawer.  It is always a good idea to organize the contents of your drawers and cabinets in a way that will reduce the chances of jamming when you encounter rough roads or unusually violent maneuvers.  Try hard not to overfill drawers as that makes it very difficult to jostle contents down enough to get the drawer open once they've been scrambled by too much bouncing.

Of course if you only camp in developed campgrounds accessible by paved roads you aren't as likely to encounter these kinds of problems compared to off-roaders who by design are headed into remote areas where difficult terrain is to be expected.  But that doesn't mean you are entirely exempt from the need to pre-drive your route.  Checking things out ahead of time can alert you to potential obstacles, such as narrow roads or narrow bridges, low overpasses, especially steep grades, road construction, and size and weight restrictions.  Even when your plans included only paved roads you may sometimes encounter problems created by flash floods or mudslides that would create hazards to your travel, sometimes leaving ruts and other obstacles that are at least as formidable as bad off-road routes.  Mud and gravel accumulation from run-off can be deceiving.  It may look like you can get over it but often it hides eroded pavement and soft spots where you can get stuck or that can swallow entire rigs, or the weight of the rig may cause the already loosened ground to give way, toppling your rig or send it sliding or tumbling down the slope below the road.

These days you might be able to pre-view some potentially difficult roads using a camera-equipped drone.  Be sure it is legal operate drones in the area before launching yours.    Viewing  a road from a drone will help you identify major issues but actually driving it is still the best way to make sure it will be safe for your RV.

Always check it out!

Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs)

There are many kinds of vehicles that are considered off highway vehicles  (OHVs).  The term most often is used regarding dirt bikes, ATVs, ATCs, side-by-sides (Utility Task Vehicles or UTVs), dune buggies, and 4x4s but could also be used to describe  snowmobiles and personal watercraft. Technically, mountain bikes and even off-road skateboards could be considered OHVs, but the term is usually applied to motor powered vehicles.  You ride dirt bikes, ATVs, ATCs, Jetskis, and Snowmobiles, straddling a seat or saddle and using handlebars.  You drive UTVs or side-by-sides, dune buggies, and 4x4s, sitting in a seat (with seat belts) and using a steering wheel.  In most places you must be licensed driver at least 16 years of age to drive a UTV, dune buggie, or 4x4. Laws regarding dirt bikes and ATVs vary from state to state.

Dirt bikes are off-road motorcycles.  They have two wheels.  They are rated by engine size and typically range from 50cc to 650cc.  Dirt bikes are the most difficult land based motorized OHVs to learn to ride.  Like riding a bicycle, you must learn to balance the motorcycle to keep it upright but the engine provides a gyroscopic effect that gives some assistance.  They are popular for riding single track trails and have the capability to ride on trails that cross slopes without falling over (unless the rider is careless or incompetent).  An advanced form of dirt bike is the motocross bike.  These are specially equipped and tuned for racing on motocross and Supercross tracks but you will often see them ridden by recreational riders on the trails.  They are fast and powerful and capable of performing many stunts, such as wheelies and jumps in the hands of an experienced rider.  Dirt bikes are usually designed to carry only one rider but some are or can be configured to carry an additional passenger with the addition of a second set of foot pegs and an extended seat.  

Early motorcycles were, by necessity, off road machines, or, more correctly using today's language, dual sport machines.  The lack of developed roads in the early 20th Century meant most vehicles had to be capable of at least some off road operation.  The first dirt bikes specifically for off road riding and racing were custom made by riders themselves from Triumph and Rickman street motorcycle components starting in the 1940s.  Then, seeing a potentially profitable market, Japanese companies like Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, and Kawasaki started manufacturing factory dirt bikes for retail sale.  A friend of mine bought the 2nd Yamaha IT 400 sold in the United States and we owned it for several years.  Other prominent brands include KTM (Austria), Husqvarna (Sweden), and ATK (United States).  Dirt bikes are made for riding in the the dirt.  If you must ride on pavement, exercise extra caution.  The knobby tires are not designed for use on pavement and could cause an accident.  Dirt bikes are normally not legal to be ridden on paved roads but can sometimes be "dual sported" to qualify for occasional street use.  There are special "D.O.T." knobbies that are street legal, but as with most compromises, they aren't as good on the street as normal highway tires nor as good in the dirt as off road tires.  ATV tires are especially dangerous on the road.  Ive read that most ATV accidents occur on paved roads and some of them have been fatal.  Pavement isn't as forgiving as grass or dirt

ATCs (All Terrain Cycles) were predecessors of the ATV and have 3 wheels.  They are sometimes called 3-wheelers.  They were only manufactured and sold for a few years due to purported dangers associated with them.  It is often thought they were banned in the United States by Federal law.  In reality, the threat of a Federal ban caused the manufacturers to impose their own moratorium in accordance with a consent decree during which they turned their attention to 4-wheel ATVs.  You can still find a few pre-owned ATCs around, but new ones have not been sold  in the United States since the mid 1980s.  There were some inherent design features that were blamed for a number of accidents, some of them fatal.  Some notable examples are:  running over your own foot with one of the rear wheels (I NEVER did that with my dirt bike!) and the perception that their 3-wheeled tricycle format made them easy to ride.  The latter often drew young or novice riders who quickly exceeded their personal limits and found themselves in serious trouble.  Another anomaly that gave inexperienced ATC riders problems was that, unlike bicycles and motorcycles, leaning into a turn could cause you to turn the opposite way!  For example, leaning left would transfer extra weight onto the left rear wheel, giving it more traction and causing it to move forward faster than the right rear wheel, forcing the ATC to turn right regardless of which way the front wheel was turned.  Manufacturers steadfastly denied that ATCs were inherently more dangerous than dirt bikes, but the public perception of their faults led to government investigations and ultimately to the demise of their production. Contrary to popular belief, they were never outlawed.  Rather, a voluntary moritorium was implemented by the manufacturers to avoid legal restrictions.  By the time the moratorium had expired, manufacturers had replaced their 3-wheeled ATCs with 4-wheeled ATVs, which were much more stable, and had no interest in reviving the much-maligned three-wheelers.  If you should find one in good condition it can be fun to ride.  Just be aware of its limitations and idiosyncracies!  I suspect building machines with 3 wheels was less expensive than building them with 4 wheels so 3-wheelers came before 4-wheelers.

ATVs or 4-wheelers are 4-wheeled off highway vehicles that replaced the ATCs.  They are popular as recreational toys and as working utility vehicles on farms and ranches and in the forest.  Many are equipped with 4WD making them capable of negotiating low traction situations like mud, sand, and snow.  Their stability lends them to search and rescue operations, both for carrying gear and transporting patients.

Side-by-sides or UTVs are kind of like a large ATV or a small 4x4, depending on your perspective.  They get their name from the seating configuration that puts at least 2 people sitting side-by-side as they would in a Jeep or a sports car.  Larger units may have 4-6 seats.  You steer them with a steering wheel, just like a car.  All side-by-sides I've seen have 4 wheel drive, bu there some 2WD models.  They usually provide a quite comfortable ride, with wheel travel that rivals dirt bikes.  The larger units are sometimes prohibited on ATV trails because of  their additional width.  Being larger and more complex, they can be significantly more expensive than dirt bikes and ATVs, but if some of your party is happy riding as a passenger instead of operating the vehicle themselves, they might be cost effective.  For example, one UTV can could carry 4 people and may cost less than 4 dirt bikes, depending on the model and optional features.  Some popular examples of side-by-sides are the Yamaha Rhino, the Kawasaki Mule, the Polaris RZR, and the Arctic Cat Wildcat.  Like ATVs, side-by-sides are often used as utility vehicles for farm and ranch work.  In fact, the Kawasaki Mule was at first a farm and ranch utility vehicle that users adapted for recreational use.  UTVs are fairly stable on pavement but driving them on paved roads for any distance will cause premature tire wear.  They are not typically licensed for on road operation.

Dune buggies are another form of off highway vehicles that can provide a lot of family fun.  There are two basic styles of dune buggies I am familiar with:  rails and fiberglass bodies.  Most are built on Volkswagen or Corvair chassis  The rear-mounted, air-cooled engines seem particularly well suited to dune buggies.  Rails typically have one or two bucket seats while fiberglass body version usually seat 4 people comfortably and safely.  I once owned a Corvair-powered dune rail and had the privilege of driving the fiberglass bodied dune buggy used by Steve McQueen in the Thomas Crown Affair.  It belonged to one of my dirt biking buddies.

4x4s typically used for off road recreational purposes include the venerable Jeep, which found its first service as a general purpose military vehicle in World War II and many 4 wheel drive pickups.  Many of todays SUVs also come in a 4 wheel drive configuration that is sometimes used for off roading.  Because of the size of these vehicles they are unable to travel on designated dirt bike or ATV trails but are excellent for riding fire roads and other unimproved roads.  Some 4x4s are modified to be "rock crawlers", who compete in rigorous events challenging the ability of machine and driver to climb over large boulder and ascend steep, rocky slopes.  A popular option on many 4x4s (especially rock crawlers) is a power winch, which can be used to pull the vehicle through especially difficult terrain and pull it out if it gets stuck.  Since many 4x4s are modified highway vehicles they often are street licensed.

Mountain bikes are sometimes considered off road vehicles and are banned from designated wilderness areas and many hiking trails.  Properly equipped mountain bikes in the hands of a competent rider can handle remarkably difficult terrain.  Forest and desert trails are popular venues for mountain biking.  The "slick rock" area around Moab in south eastern Utah is one of the most famous places for mountain biking.  Mountain bikes often share dirt bike trails in many locations.

Snowmobiles are an off highway vehicle for winter use.  You ride them kind of like an ATV, sitting on the saddle and steering with handlebars connected to skis up front.  The drive is provided by a single, center mounted. tank type rubber track that gives excellent traction in the snow.  Snowmobiles come in at least two major categories:  trail machines and powder machines.  Trails machines are ideal for use on groomed snowmobile trails and roads but if you want to go cross country and make your own trails, you'll probably want a powder machine.  Powder machines are usually bigger and more powerful so trail rated machines are best for beginners.  Beginners would do well to seek out groomed snowmobile trails until they gain sufficient skills to venture off the trail.

Jet skis and other personal watercraft are sometimes included in the category of OHVs, but in common usage OHV usually pertains to land toys.  Jet skis are sometimes called "wet bikes", connoting that they are similar to dirt bikes for the water.  They are, in fact, ridden like a motorcycle, straddling the saddle or seat and steering with handlebars.

Tracked OHVs.  Some years ago there was a cute little tracked OHV called a Trackster.  It was manufactured by Cushman, who is better known for their motor scooters.  Tracksters are no longer manufactured but there are still a few around if you search for them.  The tank-like tracks give them incredible off road capabilities -- in dirt, sand, mud, and snow  Tracksters can go just about anywhere.  My uncle, who was a dealer for them when I was in my teens, took us for a ride up a steep set of hundreds of concrete steps to the top of one of the benches near his home.  It was quite a ride!  There are a few specialized ATVs or specially modified ATVs  and side-by-sides that ride on tracks and you can even by track kits for larger 4x4s.  These kits usually replace each wheel with a triangular track that has its own 3 wheels.  For normal driving the track rotates around all three of its wheels but when climbing over an obstacle the whole assembly may rotate, giving the vehicle ability to climb over things like rocks and logs.  Track kits are relatively expensive so you will probably need a very good reason for converting your 4x4.

 

There are track kits available to convert ATVs, UTVs, and other 4x4 vehicles and even dirt bikes from wheeled to tracked format.   They are fairly expensive but are promising adaptations that could expand the capabilities of wheeled off road vehicles.  Tracked vehicles can often traverse difficult terrain and obstacles that would stop a wheeled vehicle.  There are even track conversions for dirt bikes.

Personal safety is an important consideration for all OHV activities.  First of all, make sure your machine is in good condition and that none of its factory installed safety features have been removed or disabled.  Second, get appropriate training and practice to ensure you can safely operate the machine.  This means more than just being able to move in a straight line and negotiate turns.  You need to understand the capabilities and the limitations of your equipment as well as your ability to control the machine.  Last but certainly not least, wear appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and correct use of safety devices (such as seat belts on UTVs).  The PPE you need will depend on the type of vehicle you're riding.  I strongly recommend full body armor for riding dirt bikes, ATCs, and ATVs, and at least helmets and goggles when riding  UTVs and 4x4s.  Personal water craft require appropriate, US Coast Guard approved flotation devices.  One final bit of advice:  those cool tricks you see in the Supercross, X-games, or during other televised off-road events, are performed by professional riders with years and years of special training and their equipment usually includes significant modifications to enhance both performance and safety.  Don't try to imitate their antics!  Performing an incredible stunt may look like fun, but without proper training, experience, and equipment, it is likely to have extremely painful (possibly fatal) and very expensive results.

Have fun off road!

Bicycles for Camping, RVing, and Boating

Bicycles are a good match for both tent and RV camping.  They are light weight and provide economical transportation around camp and for local shopping and sightseeing trips.  They are environmentally friendly and provide good exercise to help you keep in shape.  Bicycle riding is a fun activity for families, couples, and even solo.

Bicycles are not usually associated with boating but you could bring a bicycle along to use on shore at your destination or stops along the way.  The limited space on smaller boats doesn't lend itself very well to transporting bicycles but if you have room on board there is no reason you couldn't take a bicycle with you if you want.

Bicycles can be carried on an RV, a tow vehicle, or the family car.  They are light weight and take up little room.  Some even fold up so they fit in your trunk or an RV outside cabinet.  They require few tools or spare parts.  New bicycles may range in price from under $100 to more than $10,000.  You'll probably want something in between.  Cheap bicycles are, well, cheap.  They are usually not as light and may not function as smoothly or be as durable or reliable as more expensive models.  You can usually get a pretty good bike for a few hundred dollars.  If you have the budget for it, there are amazingly light racing bikes made of leading edge materials that are very durable and fun to ride.   You can usually find good used bikes at thrift stores.  Sometimes they may have already been reconditioned, but the lower cost of ones that haven't been may make them good buys if you have the tools and skills to do the work yourself -- or other resources to get them in shape. 

Choose a bike that fits your needs.  There are several different general types of bicycles, each designed for a different riding style.  Road bikes are the fastest and usually the lightest weight.  They have very thin, high pressure tires and drop down handle bars.  The thin, hard tires minimize rolling resistance and are designed for riding on smooth pavement.  The drop down handlebars make the rider crouch into a low profile that reduces wind drag.  These are the style of bike used in high speed, long distance road races.  The bent over riding position may be uncomfortable to some riders.  A fitness or hybrid bike is much like a road bike but doesn't have the drop down handlebars.  These are very popular bikes for recreational and fitness use.  City bikes have high handlebars and seats designed for upright riding.  Cruisers are designed for short comfortable rides.  They have larger seats, wide handlebars, and fatter tires. They often called "beach cruisers" because of their popularity for riding in the sand.  Mountsain bikes are designed for off road use, with sturdier, softer, knobby tires for traction and rugged frames.  Mountain bikes often include suspension systems to smooth the ride,  Consider the weight when purchasing a bike.  Lighter bikes will take less effort to ride but because of the more costly materials (carbon fiber, titanium, aluminum) will usually be more expensive.  Weight is a more important consideration for racing or for off-road riding than it would be for recreational riding on city streets.  Pretty much any bike that is comfortable for you to ride will be suitable for campgrounds and local excursions.  If you expect to do any trail riding or other off-road riding, consider a mountain bike.  If you find bending over hard on your back you can usually change the handlebar stem to a high rise model that lets you sit more upright.  I did that on my mountain bike and it made riding a LOT more comfortable.  Some bikes have active suspension systems that absorb he bumps in the road or trail.  Of course springs, shock absorbers, and linkages add weight but it is often well worth it for the added comfort.

Bikes come in single or multiple speed versions.  Cruisers are usually single speed bikes with a "coaster brake".   To stop the bike, pedal backwards to engage the brake within the hub of the rear wheel.  Multiple speed bikes use different sized sprockets on the pedals and on the rear wheels to provide a variety of gear ratios for different riding conditions.  Low gear ratios make it easier to pedal up inclines while high gear rations yield faster travel.  Road bikes, mountain bikes, and most fitness bikes are multiple speed bikes.  Multiple speed bikes have hand brakes.  These normally have pads that grip the edge of the wheel but more effective, more durable, and more expensive disc brakes are becoming more popular.  Disc brakes may be a little safer because they are less affected by moisture you might get on the rims riding in wet conditions.

For many years bicycles had no suspension at all.  The wheels were mounted directly to the frame. This made for a rather stiff and bumpy ride.   My mountain bike has no suspension and I can feel every pebble in the pavement when I ride my mountain bike on the road.  Today there are many suspension options.  Front suspension reduces hammering  of your hands, arms and shoulders.  Rear suspension makes the ride softer.  As you would expect, the more sophisticated the suspension, the more costly the bike.  If you're mostly just riding around the campground or over smooth paved roads, suspension will probably not be necessary.  But if you are riding trails or going on long rides or encounter rough roads, suspension will be very desirable.  My first bicycle, many years ago, had a simple front suspension called "knee action".  The front wheel was mounted on a secondary fork that was hinged and had a spring at the top of one set of forks to absorb the bumps.  Modern suspension usually includes shock absorbers that dampen movement and absorb impact as well as springs.  Some bikes may have only front suspension to lessen the stress on your arms and shoulders.  Bikes with rear suspension will be more comfortable to ride, especially on rough roads or off-road trails, but they will be more expensive.  When riding a standard bike without any suspension you will feel every bump, even the very texture of the gravel in asphalt pavement and that can be quite tiring.   You can usually  even feel the difference between riding on the white line at the edge of the road compared to riding on bare asphalt.  Of course suspension components will add a little weight to the bike too.

Motor powered bicycles are available but not commonly seen.  They may be powered by a small gasoline engine or by a battery powered electric motor.  Motor driven cycles minimize the effort needed to get around but also reduce the exercise component of cycling.  Motor driven cycles may be prohibited on many trails.  Motor driven bicycles usually do not meet the standards for motor vehicles and riding them on public thoroughfares may be illegal.

Folding bicycles are designed to fit into the storage compartment of RVs or the trunk of your car. They are usually single speed bikes designed primarily for cruising around the campground or short trips to the store.  I would probably not choose a folding bike because I like to do a lot of exploring, and a multi-speed bike is far better suited for that.  But having a folding bike in the RV for getting around camp or quick trips to a nearby store might be a real advantage.

There are even all wheel drive bicycles.  These have an option to engage a second chain that connects to the front wheel.  As you can imagine, the linkage is somewhat complicated.  Just like 4-wheel drive vehicles, the all wheel drive bicycle is designed for added traction in off-road conditions.  I owned one for a while and found that the added weight and friction of the front wheel drive made it less appealing than I thought it would be.  Perhaps if I'd been riding on muddy or otherwise slippery trails the extra front wheel traction may have been more noticeable and appreciated, but I found my regular mountain bike more comfortable and easier to ride on the hard-packed or sandy desert trails I normally rode.

If you have any problem maintaining balance you might to for a three-wheeled bike.   With full sized wheels and other modern innovations they are a far cry from the tricycle you rode as a toddler.

Bicycle racks are a good way to transport your bicycles.  Or you can transport them in the bed of your pickup or in your trailer.  Bike racks can be found to fit just about any vehicle.  There are some that slide into the trailer hitch receiver, some that clamp over a rear-mounted spare tire, some that attach to the trunk and bumper of a car.  There are roof racks that can carry your bikes on top of your vehicle.  I often see bike racks on top of tent trailers.  I had an 8-bike rack custom built to fit the trailer hitch on my motorhome to accommodate full size bikes for my family of 8.  It carried 4 bikes on each of two levels.  Whenever using any bike rack, be sure to tie down the bikes securely.  You want to restrict movement to avoid chafing that can damage paint or other components as well as make sure they don't fall of en route.  Look for a rack that has padding to protect the parts of the bike that come in contact with the carrier.  You can use ratchet tie down straps to limit movement and ensure your bikes and rack remain secure.

Used bicycles can be a real bargain.  Check your local bike shop, classified ads, garage sales, thrift stores, and online sites like craigslist and ebay.  You will want to acquire some knowledge about brands and prices to ensure you recognize a good deal when  you find one and to avoid getting ripped off.  Thrift stores often offer the best values.  Because of their low overhead they can afford to sell at lower prices and often the bikes have been reconditioned by knowledgeable thrift store employees.  As you would purchasing any used equipment, inspect it carefully to make sure everything is there and in good working order.  A bike that needs minor work can be an excellent value IF you have the resources to make the necessary adjustments and repairs but one that only needs a flat tire fixed won't do you any good if you can't fix it.  I have seen $1200 mountain bikes in good shape sell on craigslist for $200 so with a little patience you may be able to get a really good deal on a used bike.

Like any mechanical device, bicycles require a certain amount of maintenance to keep the working well.    Most maintenance can be done by the owner/rider.  Even changing tires or brake pads (on bikes equipped with hand brakes) is usually within the capabilities of the average owner/rider.  Regular lubrication is necessary to maintain smooth operation and reduce wear.  Lubrication points include axle bearings, crank bearings, and head bearings (where the stem that holds handle bars turn in the frame).  Bikes with suspension will have additional moving parts that need to be regularly inspected and lubricated.  Chain adjustment is also part of routine maintenance.  A loose chain may come off.  A tight chain may cause excessive wear or make shifting difficult.  Multiple speed bikes also required adjustment of the shifter.  This is a little more technical and many owners take their bikes to a professional for a "tuneup" periodically.  Owner riders can usually learn to adjust hand brakes.  Frequently check the wheels for loose spokes.  If you over-tighten spokes you can "tweak" the wheel so it doesn't run true.  Unless you have the skills and proper tools for truing the wheel, you'll need to take it to a bike shop if the wheels begin to wobble or the spokes get excessively loose.  The shifters on multi-speed bikes can be difficult to adjust.  If you have problems you can't solve yourself you may have to take it to a bike shop for a "tune up".  I found them to be surprisingly inexpensive and well worth it.

Always wear protective gear when riding a bicycle.  Many cities and states have laws at least requiring riders under a certain age to wear helmets but it is ALWAYS a good idea to wear a helmet, regardless of your age or local laws and it doesn't matter whether you're riding on the road or off road. Other apparel to make you more comfortable may include riding shorts, which have a padded crotch to reduce irritation from the seat.  Speaking of the seat, if you find the one on your bike isn't comfortable, there are many aftermarket seats to choose from so you can probably find one that fits your body and your riding style better.  Gloves will keep your hands from chafing on the hand grips and will significantly reduce the chance of blisters.  They will also keep your hands warmer in cool weather while light weight gloves usually are still comfortable in hot weather.  Cycling gloves are specially designed for riding comfort.  Some bicycle gloves have open finger tips.  Personally, I prefer full fingered gloves.  They provide more consistent protection.  Heavy work gloves will be cumbersome and could cause blisters.  Off road motorcycle gloves would also be a good option.  Riding jerseys are designed to provide flexible movement and keep you comfortable but many riders wear ordinary T-shirts or polo shirts.  In warm weather you want something that will wick away your sweat.  In cooler weather you may need to add a windbreaker or other cold weather clothing.  Rain gear is essential for comfort in wet weather.   Professional cyclists wear special shoes but I've found light weight running shoes to be very comfortable for my needs and wearing my cowboy boots prevents my pant legs from getting caught in the chain.  Avoid wearing pants with loose legs as they can get caught in the chain.  If you don't wear fitted pants, tie up the leg on the side where the chain is to keep it from getting caught.  When I was a kid we used to use metal spring clamps that fit around our pant legs just above the ankle but I haven't seen them in years.  A large rubber band or a small bungee will do the job.  Wearing gaiters or leggings may also help, weather permitting; they might be uncomfortably hot in warm weather.   Rear view mirrors, either helmet mounted or handlebar mounted, will let you see traffic approaching from behind you and to keep track of other riders when you're out front.

Riding a bicycle requires a fair amount of exertion.  Even on cooler days you're going to lose moisture through sweat and through breathing.  It is essential that you maintain adequate hydration when riding to avoid heat related illness.  A Camelbak style hydration pack is one of the most convenient ways to stay hydrated while riding.  You can sip from the mouthpiece anytime without having to stop your ride.  Most bikes are or can be equipped with brackets or a least a place to mount brackets on the front part of the lower frame to hold a water bottle.  Regardless of the method you use, always carry water and drink frequently to avoid dehydration.  If you're just starting out riding after a sedentary life style, you may want to consult your doctor before you begin to ensure you are fit enough to ride.  You may need to start with an easy regimen and work your way up in order to avoid discomfort and health problems.   

If you are just getting into cycling, it would be a good idea to check with your doctor first to make sure you are physically fit enough to proceed.  Then start out easy and work your way up.  A few days of riding "around the block" before tackling any long rides or steep hills is a good way to build up strength, skill, and stamina.  I like to plan my training rides so that I am going uphill on the way out and can take advantage of downhills to coast a little on the way back.  That being said, it always seems to me that no matter where I ride it is ALWAYS uphill both ways!  I must not notice the downhills on the way out until I have to pedal back up them on the way back.

Bicycling can be a great family activity.  You may be able to spend more quality time and enjoy a closer look as you explore the sights and sounds around you with far greater intensity than you get flying by in an air conditioned vehicle.  With a little planning you can stop along the way for a picnic lunch or pedal to the local burger joint or ice cream parlor for a special treat.  Bicycling allows you to travel farther and faster and easier than walking but still lets you get significant exercise and have full access to the sights and sound.  Plus you have the option to easily alter your course to explore interesting places along the way.

Security may be a concern. Bicycles are very popular and are fairly easy to steal and to sell.  Always lock up your bike when you aren't using it, both in camp and when you stop along your ride.  My youngest son learned this lesson the hard way when his brand new bike was stolen just days after he received it for his birthday.  Ironically it was stolen while he was in the store buying a bike lock!  He came out with a really nice bike lock only find that his bike was gone.  Be sure to record the serial number of your bike if it has one so you can give it to law enforcement if it is stolen.  It is also a good idea to engrave your own ID number somewhere on the frame where it won't be easily seen but can be used to prove it's yours if recovered by law enforcement.

Bicycle safety involves more than wearing a helmet and keeping your balance.  In most jurisdictions, bicycles are bound by the same laws as motor vehicles. although all too often you will see bicyclists disregard stop signs and stop lights and lane usage.   I have seen places were rules for bicycles have been relaxed to allow them to pedal through stop signs and stop lights without stopping, but it seems to me to be a very dangerous practice.   And, yes, you can get a speeding ticket or a ticket for running a stop sign on a bicycle.  Some bicyclists prefer to ride against traffic, but that is usually illegal and is actually quite dangerous.  True, you have a better view of on-coming traffic like walking against traffic, but motorists won't be looking for you to be coming down the wrong lane, which can be disastrous if they're pulling out of a driveway or parking space and watching for traffic coming up from  where motor vehicles would normally be.   Take advantage of bicycle lanes when they exist but be aware that they often end with little or no warning.  When riding on public roads, ride single file and stay near the right hand edge of the pavement.  Riding on sidewalks or in crosswalks is usually prohibited but you will see a lot of riders ignoring that law.  Remember, you are required to obey the same traffic laws on your bicycle as you have to obey driving a motorcycle, car, or RV.  Laws typically require motor vehicles to maintain at least 3 feet between them and bicycles when passing them.  To maintain maximum safety, always ride as close to the side of the road (away from the traffic lanes)  as you safely can.  Always ride single file when there is other traffic on the road.  Some roads have designated bicycle lanes for added safety.  Even when riding in designated bike lanes you should ride as far away from traffic as you can.  Cars near you can't always swing out to give you more space if there is traffic coming the other direction towards them and many drivers may drive closer to bicycles to avoid crossing over double yellow lines to go around them even if there is no traffic coming.  The fines for crossing the double yellow line can be expensive!

Safety is a primary concern when riding a bicycle --enough so that it bears a second mention. You have little protection if you collide with anything -- a car, a tree, another rider, a pedestrian, or even soft ground so you want to avoid dangerous situations.  Even soft grass can be a painful place the land.  In most places, bicycles are required to obey the same laws as motor vehicles.  That means coming to a complete stop at stop signs, signaling your turns, and avoiding impeding traffic.  Some riders like to ride against traffic so they can see cars approaching.  In most places this is illegal as well as unsafe.  I nearly hit a bicyclist riding against traffic on the wrong side of the road as I pulled out from a parking space.  I was legitimately concerned about traffic approaching from the rear and, like most people, never expected a bicycle to be riding the wrong way in the lane I was entering right next to the parked cars, so he nearly ran into the front of my car when I began to pull out.  When riding in a group, ride single file whenever there is traffic present to minimize your impact on traffic and reduce the chances of one of you being struck or forced off the road.  Normally bicyclists don't ride fast enough to exceed posted speed limits,but be aware that you are subject to posted speed limits when riding a bicycle so think about that going down hill.  I've seen bikes easily exceed 50 mph coasting down hill on mountain roads.  While that may be exhilarating, it is also very dangerous.  Stopping will be extremely difficult and even hitting a very small obstacle may be enough to make you crash.  And, at that speed, it won't be a pretty sight!  Even if you believe you have the right of way, competing with large motor vehicles isn't a wise thing to do.  You may be right, but in the end you could be DEAD right!

Bicycling is a great family activity and unless you have physical limitations can be a great way to do some sight seeing and get some exercise.  Bikes let you move faster and easier than walking, but slow enough to enjoy the scenery and you can stop to check things out any time you like.  Add a basket or cargo rack and you can use your bike for quick trips to pick up supplies or to carry your picnic.  In a pinch you might just hang a couple of plastic grocery bags on the handlebars to carry your stuff, but try not to do that because it will affect your ability to steer and control the bike.

Nighttime riding requires some special preparation.  First of all, you will need to make you and your bike visible to other traffic.  Most bikes are equipped with front (white) and rear (red) reflectors but not lights.  You can add a headlight and taillight to help you see where you're going and make your bike even more visible at night.  Most headlight systems use a generator that is driven by one of the tires, but that means you only have light when you are moving.  Battery powered lights solve this problem, but batteries can run down fairly quickly.  The best solution is a hybrid that uses batteries but charges them via a wheel-driven generator when moving.  New LED based lighting reduces power requirements.  I've seen inexpensive "flashers" you can clip to your clothing to make you more noticeable.  Do not wear dark colored clothing when riding at night!  Wear light colored clothing.   For best results, wear something reflective.  If you don't have any reflective bike apparel, a simple safety vest like those used by construction workers and road crews is pretty inexpensive and well worth the investment and they can be folded up  small enough to fit in a bike pack or pocket.  Class III safety vests are designed with extra reflective material for greater nighttime visibility and they aren't much more expensive than Class II  daytime vests.  You can get simple reflective bands that snap around your arm to add a little bit of nighttime safety.  And they are not expensive:  I've even found them at Dollar Tree on several occasions.

If you are really ambitious and in good physical condition, you might even use a bicycle to go camping.   You will need to organize your gear and supplies so you can carry them on your bicycle.  Some of it may go in a back pack, some of it in a rack over the rear fender, or some in saddle bags.  Any way you cut it, you will want to minimize the weight you have to pack around.  Make sure your bike is in good condition, properly lubricated and shifters and brakes properly adjusted.  Always carry plenty of drinking water and have it readily available every time you stop.  Bike water bottles are usually mounted in a rack on the lower bar beneath the crossbar or you can wear a hydration pack.  If you find you just can't get your load down enough to carry you might be able to get a bike trailer (like those used to carry infants) to offload some of your gear.  However, you will still be having to move all the weight and it will take as much energy regardless of whether it is on your bike or behind it.  You will also get a little extra rolling resistance from the two additional tires on the trailer and pulling a trailer will reduce mobility and maneuverability and may limit the trails you can travel.

In addition to being used when camping or RVing, you can go camping and RVing on a bicycle!  For basic camping you may be able to  carry your tent and sleeping bag on a bike rack or on a pack on your back.  If you need or want to carry more gear you may need a little trailer.  There are trailers made for bicycles that can carry toddler and cargo.  There are also some camping trailers built to be towed by bicycles.  They usually include some cargo capacity so you can haul your gear as well as having a place to sleep in out of the weather.  I have even seen so tiny Class C style RVs built onto a bicycle (more like a tricycle, but still with pedal power!) but I, for one, wouldn't want to pedal that up or down any hills!

Pedal power rules!

Even More On Sharpening Your Camping and Survival Skills

Why does sharpening your skills deserve a second and even this third post?   Well, it is unlikely you can ever get too much practice for essential skills.  We tend to be creatures of habit and if the habits we develop bypass regular exercise of our camping skills, they'll wane and eventually disappear.  So we need to be ever vigilant in using and improving our camping skills.  Perhaps my own lack of opportunity to practice my skills during the "off season" makes me particularly sensitive to the need.
    
No matter what your preferences for camping or other recreational activities, you will get more pleasure out of your efforts as your skills develop and improve.  Regardless of how good you may be at a particular task, you can almost always find room for improvement and without regular practice and exercise, even the best experts begin to experience diminished ability.

Every camping, hunting, fishing, hiking, horseback riding, or OHV trip is an opportunity to hone your  existing skills and perhaps develop new ones.  Every trip requires pre- and post- trip activities  that, as you practice them, will improve.  Preparations will become easier and take less time as you refine your checklists and your procedures.   You'll get better and better at hooking up the trailer, loading up your tent gear, or getting the RV on the road.  Every trip is a chance to observe and refine your driving skills.  Driving a motorhome or pulling a trailer or even navigating unfamiliar roads to a campground takes skills most drivers don't experience in their daily lives.  The more you drive your rig, the more comfortable you will become and the more fun it will be.  If you only go once or twice a year, each trip will be an ordeal.  By the time you begin to get comfortable driving your rig again, your trip will probably be over.  Setting up camp, building campfires, and camp cooking are routine activities that also get easier with practice.  

Experienced campers may want to choose specific survival techniques to practice on each outing.  You may feel comfortable with routine camp tasks, but might benefit from practicing starting your campfire using flint and steel or perhaps even creating emergency shelters or hunting or foraging for food.  Be sure to check local rules and regulations before doing anything that might have an environmental impact, such as cutting trees for a shelter or hunting or fishing or gathering edible plants.  Hunting and fishing usually require a license and are governed by scheduled "seasons" for specific types of game.  Gathering edible plants and even picking wildflowers are often prohibited.

Just about every outdoor activity can benefit from regular practice.  Whether you're just camping or out hunting, fishing, hiking, dirt biking, or enjoying your personal watercraft, there are always skills you can improve upon.  Some skills you can practice during routine activities but others may require some special preparations.  The availability of online guides and instructional videos can provide answers to many questions and give you entertaining ways to learn new skills.  When I say "entertaining", I mean entertaining to YOU, rather than turn your novice attempts at new skills into unintended entertainment for your fellow campers and humiliation for you, which happens all too frequently when we jump into something without proper preparation.   Seek out fellow campers with interests similar to yours and take advantage of their experience and expertise to enhance your own.  Just because experienced riders make something look easy doesn't mean it is!

Just like sharpening our tools makes them safer and easier to use, sharpening our skills will make our activities safer and more more fun.  And don't be afraid to draw on the expertise of other more experience campers.  They're likely to have had their share of embarrassing moments and may be able to divert you away from potential disasters.  Of course you will probably want to avoid seeking help from the resident practical joker, who may be likely to take advantage of your naivety to amuse himself or entertain others at your expense.

Use it or lose it!