New House, New RV Issues

We just moved from McKenzie Bridge, Oregon to Idaho falls, Idaho.  We found a house right around the corner from one of our daughters.  For me it is kind of returning home since I was born and raised in Pocatello, Idaho, about 45 minutes drive south of Idaho Falls but still in the same basic Snake River Valley climate and environment.

 One of the features of our new house that was essential for us was RV access and it has a large concrete RV pad.  However, something we hadn't considered was the long overhang on the rear of our 36' Holiday Rambler Vacationer motor home.  When we tried to drive in with our motorcycle trailer attached the trailer hitch dragged the ground.  Then, trying to back out to reposition the rigs where we wanted them the hitch dug deeply into the pavement and we had to find some scrap lumber and try to use our motorcycle ramps to alleviate the problem.  We did manage to get back out but mangled the motorcycle ramps and left gouges in the pavement.  We called the city street department to alert them to the damage we had done.  They came out an checked it out and, to our relief, said it wouldn't be a problem.  On closer inspection I could see at least one spot where a previous owner had left a deep trailer hitch gouge in the pavement.  We had been warned to make sure the size of the RV pad was large enough for our needs and it definitely was, but the problem with the tail dragging hadn't occurred to us until it happened.

 The long term solution might involve adding rollers to the rear of the motor home, but in some ways that increase the problem since it lowers the contact point even more.  Another alternative we are considering is building portable ramps to lift the rear wheels gently up over the gutter dip.  

 We eventually solved the problem by using stacking leveling blocks to create ramps from the middle of the sidewalk into the street to back the RV out without the hitch digging into the street.  Interestingly enough, we can drive in at enough of an angle so the hitch barely drags.  It takes about 7 or 8 sets of leveling blocks to build the ramps.

Just a heads up for you readers:  consider the potential problem of tail dragging if/when ever you are entering a driveway, whether is is your own or a parking lot.

Fall Has Fell!

Fall has fell!  Well, almost.  Friday, September 23, is the official first day of fall.  It is the autumn equinox.  Twice a year, in March and September, the length of the day and night are the same and that marks the beginning of spring (March) and fall (September).  The actual date may vary by a few days, from the 21 to the 23, depending on the year.

The equinoxes, as well as the solstices (longest and shortest days of the year) have been significant events historically, with each typically having its own holiday(s) and marking the time for major events.  In days gone by, the fall equinox was often associated with harvest time.  Now, since most of us are long distanced from farming, it just marks the first official day of fall.

For outdoor enthusiasts the beginning of fall is often tied to the beginning of September and  back-to-school rituals.  That is frequently when folks start putting away their summer toys.  If you haven't already done so, the first day of autumn (September 23 this year) is a good time to start!  There should still be time to get things cleaned up, serviced, and properly stored before the winter storms begin.

Tent campers usually have it easiest, especially if you observe good protocols for each outing.   Hopefully you clean your tent, sleeping bag, stoves, lanterns and other equipment and store them properly after each outing.  If you do, you shouldn't have very much left to do.  You might want to inspect everything so you can arrange to make necessary repairs or get replacements lined up during the off season.  Also it is a good idea to double check your provisions and make sure there isn't anything perishable or that might freeze left in there.  If you do any winter camping, now would be the time to swap out summer sleeping bags and clothing for winter equivalents.

RVers and Boaters usually have a LOT more to do.  RVs and boats need to be prepared for winter storage and that means winterizing water systems, servicing engines and drive systems as well as clearing out perishable provisions.  RVs and boats should be properly covered to protect them from winter weather.

OHV riders winter procedures will differ depending on what kind of OHV(s) you have and whether you will continue using them as the weather changes.  Dirt bikers usually put their machines away for the winter.  ATVs and UTVs with 4 wheel drive are more likely to continue to be used when the snow flies so you may invest your time preparing them for winter use instead of putting them into storage.

Of course, fall is when the leaves fall!  It is a good idea to make sure your RVs,  OHVs. and boats are properly stored or covered to prevent accumulated leaves from staining the surfaces.  Such staining can usually be removed with a good scrubbing, but you can save yourself a lot of effort by covering your  units before they get stained.  If you don't live in an apartment or condo, fall usually means raking leaves.  For many of this, it will be an unusual level of activity, not as bad as shoveling snow, but enough that it is prudent to exercise some level of caution to avoid muscle strains or even heart attacks!  Dry leaves are a LOT lighter than wet ones, so either rake them up before it rains or give them a day or two to dry out after it rains before raking them up.  If you have limited strength or mobility, it might be useful to start early so you only have a limited amount of weight to move around.  However, that will mean doing it multiple times as the leaves continue to fall.  I kind of favor waiting until all or at least most of the leaves are off the trees and doing it all at once, but that does mean the pile will be bigger, but if necessary I can always shovel the piles into trash cans or trash bags as I go and I only have to do one major raking.

One thing that NEVER goes away, is our desire and need for outdoor activities.  Whether you choose to continue going on outings as the weather changes or not, you will still have the urge to get out.  You might use the ''off season'' to perform maintenance or upgrades on your equipment or to research new destinations and activities for next year.  You might even explore options for new winter activities.  Skiing, snowmobiling, ice fishing, and winter camping are all fun possibilities and just might be worth exploring.

Get ready!

Wildfires Affect Camping

What do you care about the wildfires?  Well, unless you live near the fire, you probably don't.  But since I do, I am using it as an example for what we all should do if we live or visit areas that are subject to wildfires.   Several popular campgrounds were initially threatened by the Lookout Fire in Oregon and put under Level 3 evacuation (GET OUT NOW!) orders.  As the fire got larger even more campgrounds were closed and evacuated.

Campers are often affected by wildfires.  Most often they may have to switch destinations or evacuate a campground because of fires.  Unfortunately, campers sometimes start wildfires.  Usually it is inadvertently, due to ignorance or carelessness, but I have seen campers deliberately and knowingly and willingly violate fire restrictions and cause a forest fire!  Don't be the yahoo who starts a forest fire!  Pay attention to fire restrictions and ALWAYS follow safe campfire procedures.

For the second time in 3 years a significant wildfire has started within 3 miles or our home.  In 2020, the Holiday Farm Fire began just 3 miles west of our house.  Unusually strong east winds (35-55 mph with gusts up to 85 mph!) blew it down river (away from us), charring more and 173,000 acres in about a week.

Now (2023) the Lookout Fire, started by lightning about 3 miles north of our house.  It has now been burning 15 days and has burned 10,521 acres (including controlled burnouts by firefighters) but is moving north and northeast, away from our house.

A couple of weeks later some welcome rain also brought lightning -- 1,633 strikes in Oregon in one day!  That started 50 new fires, with the Horse Creek Fire origin again just a few miles from our house!   We were basically surrounded by wildfires within a few miles of our home for several weeks.  Smoke made the air very unhealthy, so unhealthy that some businesses were closed so employees didn't have to work in the polluted air.  Fortunately, we were able to get an air purifier to improve the air quality in our home.

The Holiday Farm Fire was a once in 500 year event, with days and days of hot dry winds before the fire and unusually strong east winds driving the fire -- winds 35 - 55 mph and gusts up to 85 mph! Fortunately, the fires this year are more "normal", and fire fighting agencies have had time to work them successfully.

We were under Level 3 Evacuation orders (GET OUT NOW!) for both fires.  Evacuation levels include Level 1 (Get Ready), Level 2 (Get Set) and Level 3 (Get Out Now!).   Anyone who, like us, lives in the forest, should really always consider themselves at Level 1 and always have things organized and ready to to if you do get an evacuation notice.  That means gathering and organizing important papers, valuables, and keepsakes so you know where they are and can quickly load them up if you have to leave.  You won't always get all three Levels.  The Holiday Farm Fire moved so quickly that many areas were immediately at Level 3 without any advance warning.  Some residents of a nearby RV park initially refused to leave, until there were 25' flames within 10' of their RVs!  More advance notice might have been helpful, but all too often people just don't believe the risk that is facing them.  We went directly from Level 1 to Level 3 for the Lookout Fire last week.  Knowing the evacuation scenarios, my wife and I had starting preparing just about everything we needed even before we were notified we were under Level 1 Evacuation.  Having been closely involved withe Holiday Farm Fire in 2020, both as residents and as volunteer firefighters, we knew the urgency of clearing out right away when it hit Level 3.  Fortunately, aggressive fire control measures by the wildlands crews prevented the fire from reaching our McKenzie Bridge community and we were allowed back in after about 10 days.  It was so nice to go home -- and to still have a home to go to!

It isn't just residents (homes and businesses) that are subject to Wildfire Evacuations.  At least 3 campgrounds were initially subjected to Level 3 Evacuations due to the Lookout Fire. At least two or three more were evacuated as the fire moved northeast.  The good news is that campers, unlike residents, pretty much have everything they need more or less ready to pack up and go on short notice and, unless your camper is broken down, you aren't leaving your residence or other valuables behind.

When camping in the forest you are likely to be in places where you could experience wildfires with little or no notice.  Areas near the origin of the Holiday Farm Fire went immediately to Level 3 Evacuations.  One of the first venues to be evacuated was the Holiday Farm RV park.  While we go camping for fun an to relax and take things easy, it is a good idea to always keep things organized and put away things when you aren't using them so you can be ready to go at a moment's notice if you have to.  Some other things to consider are parking so you get get out quickly and easily.  When we go on a fire call we are taught to always park so we don't have to back up or turn around to escape if the fire comes after us.   Planning an escape route doesn't only apply to fire season.  You may need an escape route during rain or snow storms as well.  Keeping things organized and ready to go and your vehicles pointed in the direction you need to go is always a good idea.  Keep an eye on the weather during every outing, and, at the first sign of increasing risk of dangerous conditions take appropriate actions to make preparations to keep you and your family safe and ready to leave if/when the time comes.  If you camp in a trailer, try to back into your space so you can get out quickly in the case of any emergency.

The risk of wildfires or other natural disasters shouldn't deter you from enjoying the great outdoors.  However, I would strongly suggest you avoid venturing into any area currently affected by problems and that you carefully consider what you will need to do if problems do arise where you are.  DO NOT go into threatened areas just to ''see what is going on''.  Many times roads in and around fires will be closed to all but fire traffic.  DO NOT go past those ROAD CLOSED signs!    The last thing disaster workers need are "looky-lous" clogging roads or getting in the way of emergency operations.  If you want to help -- and are qualified to do so -- contact the appropriate local emergency services organizations to learn how and where you can be of service.  Untrained volunteers are usually not welcome on wildfires.  In years gone by "volunteers" were sometimes constricted from tourists passing through a wildfire area.  That no longer happens.  Fighting a wildfire requires extensive specialized training, both to ensure your personal safety and to limit the liability of agencies fighting the fire.

If you are interested, it is possible to get training as a wildlands firefighter, but it isn't easy.  You might be able to sign up through a state or Federal Forest Service or through one of the private wildland fire fighter companies.  You will have to have a valid driver's license and pass drug and background checks.  You will also need to be physically fit.  To get your red card (wildland firefighter certification), you will have to pass a Pack Test that involves hiking (not running) 3 miles in 45 minutes with a 50 lb pack on your back.  You will also complete training in fire behavior, fire weather, and topography along with learning how to cut hand lines and deploy and use wildland fire hose.

Stay safe and have fun!

Campers and Wildfires

Recent years have seen a marked increase in the frequency and severity of wildfires in many states.  Historically, most  wildfires were caused by lightning and many still are, but most these days are caused by human beings.  Many are due to carelessness or conscious disregard for fire regulations and restrictions.  A few are the result of arson.   

Wildfires affect campers and careless campers can affect wildfires.  If you are camping in the forest you may face a wildfire at some time.  Whether the fire was from a lightning strike or human error doesn't make a bit of difference.  You may need to evacuate on very short notice.  Campers must do their part to prevent wildfires.  ALWAYS know and follow fire regulations and exercise proper campfire safety procedures.

Having become a volunteer firefighter during my "retirement" years, I have become especially aware of and concerned about wildfires.  In 2020 we experienced the Holiday Farm Fire along the McKenzie River.  The fire started just 3 miles from our home.  Fortunately for us, it was down river and down wind from us.  The somewhat unusual East Winds (with gusts up to 85 mph) blew the fire down the valley like a blow torch, eventually scorching more than 173,000 acres and destroying nearly 800 structures before being brought under control.  Fortunately, there was only a single fatality, an older gentleman who initially refused to evacuate his mobile home when advised to do so.  Later, when it became apparent the fire was about to overtake him, he called for help but it was too late.  Rescuers were unable to get through the raging fire to reach him, despite a valiant effort.  If you are told to evacuate, don't wait!

Not long ago I responded to a brush fire at a commercial campground in our district.  Luckily the responding fire agencies (including state and US Forest service crews as well as our own rural fire department) were able to limit the damage to about 4 acres.  But the fire should never have gotten started in the first place.  In this case, it was due to willful, deliberate, and repeated violation of fire restrictions by campers in one of the camp sites.  The entire area was under EXTREME fire danger, as posted along the highway and upon entering the campground.  The subjects had been given written copies of the fire restrictions and verbally told NO CAMPFIRES.  In spite of all that, they still lit a campfire.  One of the campground staff discovered the fire, reminded them of the EXTREME fire danger and posted restrictions, and put the fire out.  Soon after he left their campsite, they re-lit their fire and it got out of control.  Just how dumb can you get?  Seems to me they could (and should) be sued for all the costs of fighting the fire and should also be subject to criminal charges for deliberately and repeatedly violating posted fire restrictions.  While ignorance is never a legitimate excuse, these folks were well aware of the fire restrictions and openly chose to violate them -- more than once!

We had another brush fire right across the street from the local USFS Ranger Station that was started by a camper ignoring posted fire restrictions during EXTREME fire danger.  How dense do you have to be to ignore fire restrictions within sight of a ranger station?

I can't even count the number of illegal campfires we have investigated and/or extinguished.  Why people do that is beyond comprehension.  As Forrest Gump wisely said:  "You can't fix stupid!"

So, what does all this have to do with RVing, OHVing, and camping?  Well, first, as responsible outdoor recreationalists we must ALWAYS know and obey fire regulation.  We must also exercise proper campfire safety at all times.  Secondly, we must be aware that we could find ourselves in the path of a wildfire just about anytime we are out in the forest. Wildfires are usually not seen in the desert area often used by OHV enthusiasts, but they can still happen there.  What should we do about it?

First of all, maintain situational awareness -- look for signs of an approaching fire and have a plan for evacuation.  Next, if you are contacted by law enforcement or fire service personnel and told to evacuate, to so immediately.  There are usually three levels of evacuations, numbered 1 through 3.  #1 means "GET READY".  In camp, start packing up and organizing your equipment and belongings to you are ready to go when the time comes.  #2 is "GET SET".  That means packing up, planning your escape route, and being ready to leave when told to do so.  #3 is "GO".   When you reach a Level 3 Evacuation, it is time to hit the road.  Don't even take time to change your shoes.  Get going NOW!  It is always a good idea to park so you can make a quick exit during an emergency and especially important during fire season.  Plan alternate routes ahead of time as many roads can be quickly closed during wildfires.  Wildfire can move amazingly fast and, if you need to evacuate, you don't want to waste time disconnecting packing up, and turning around or figuring out where you are going.

As outdoor recreationalists you may be caught in a wildfire situation.  In the old days, in some cases you might be recruited to help fight the fire.  Note that safely fighting a wildfire requires a significant amount of special training that you probably don't have.   I have heard of citizens near a wildfire in the old days being ''invited'' to help in the past, but because of liability issues these days that probably won't happen now.  Fighting wildfires requires a lot of very specific training.  If you do happen to be recruited or constricted to help fight a wildfire, pay close attention to the instructions you are given and adhere strictly to the assignment you are given.  The wildlands firefighters who will be directing you will be doing their best to keep you safe and for both your safety and theirs you must follow their directions.  Wildland firefighters wear fire-resistant clothing.  Since their Nomex clothing is very expensive you probably won't want to fork out the cash on the off chance you might get tagged to help.  If you do get asked to help, plan to wear at least a long-sleeved shirt and long pants.  Denim will give you more protection than light weight slacks.  You will also need sturdy boots.  Avoid steel toes as the steel can heat up if you are walking on hot ground.  Good leather gloves will also be essential.  You will probably be issued a hard hat but having one of your own might be a good idea.  Most likely you will be asked to assist in clearing fire lines.  These are lines 3' or more wide dug down to bare earth around ground fires to prevent or at least resist spreading.  Ground fire lines don't do anything for a crown fire -- a fire that is racing through the tops of the trees in the forest.  You might also be asked to remove "ladder fuels", which is brush and low hanging limbs fire can use to climb into the canopy.

Check the weather before you start out.  The NOAA weather forecasts will include predicted temperature, relative humidity predictions, wind predictions.  High temperatures, low humidity, and high winds all contribute to high fire danger.  Pay special attention to Red Flag Warnings.  Red Flag Warnings means the conditions for the rapid spread of wildfires are high.  Best to stay home or find other venues during a Red Flag situation, but, if you must go out during one be extra careful and pay extra attention to weather and strictly obey all fire restrictions.  Always plan an escape route in advance.  If you spot smoke near your location, you may want to leave before the fire gets too close.

If you see a fire (or even unexplained smoke), call it in immediately.  Even in areas of sketchy cell phone coverage you can sometime make 911 calls.  Provide as much information as you can, including the location, type of fuel (trees, grass, brush, structures, etc), height of the flames, and approximate size of the area involved.  If it is a small fire, such as a campfire that has just started to spread to surrounding vegetation, you might attempt to extinguish it, but only if you can do so safely.  Water or an ABC fire extinguisher or putting dirt on the fire are good ways to put it out.  For larger fires, your best action is to get out!

If you happen to live in an area that may experience wildfires or spend time camping in such places, there are at least two things you do.  First, be aware of evacuation levels and procedures for your area.  Level 1 is "Get Ready".  Level 2 is "Get Set".  Level 3 is "Go Now!".  If you are in an area that could experience wildfires, don't wait to be told you are at Level 1; always consider yourself at Level 1 and be ready to evacuate.  That means having your important papers, critical resources, and valuables identified and organized so you can quickly gather them up, put them in your car (or other vehicle) and be ready to leave.  Level 2, "Get Set", means actually gathering things up and putting them in your vehicle so that when you reach Level 3 "Go Now!" you just need to load your family and yourself into your vehicle and hit the road.  We have experienced Level 3 Evacuations twice in the last 3-4 years living in the Willamette National Forest in Oregon.  The first was for the Holiday Farm Fire in 2020, which started just 3 miles down river (and down wind fortunately!) from our house.  The second was in 2023 for the Lookout Fire that threatened our little town of McKenzie Bridge, which had, luckily, been spared during the Holiday Farm Fire in 2020.  Believe me, the last thing you want to be doing at nearly midnight when the power goes out and wildfire danger is imminent is trying to get things ready to go!  All you want to do is get in the car and get out of there!!!  I have seen Level 3 Evacuations where the flames were already close enough for the radiant heat to be almost unbearable for people evacuating.

Good old Smokey Bear reminds us that only we can prevent forest fires.  Some wildfires are started by lightning, but in recent years more are caused by humans.  Using good judgement, like maintaining proper campfire safety, obeying fire restrictions, and avoiding driving over dry grass, can prevent unnecessary wildfires.  Knowing what to do if/when you are near a wildfire could save your life and the lives of your loved ones.

Be fire safe!

Summer Is Finally Here! Time To Hit The Road!

For a while it seemed like summer was never going to get here this year, but it finally made it!  The official fist day of summer (June 21) is coming up in a couple of weeks.  It is high time we got our ducks (and trucks!) in order and hit the road for another fun season of camping, RVing, boating, and riding our OHVs.

Hopefully you have already done your spring cleaning and spring checkup so you are ready to hit the road.  If not, as Larry The Cable Guy would say, "git 'er done"!  But one word of caution: take your time.  With the weather favoring our outdoor activities now it is really easy to get excited about heading out and that can often lead to taking shortcuts or skipping some of the steps for preparation.  Believe me, that is ALWAYS a bad mistake to make!  As anxious as you may be to get going, taking the time to make sure everything is ready will ultimately pay off in getting you out there faster and letting enjoy your outing with fewer things going wrong.  I am a volunteer firefighter and in the fire service we have a saying:  "Slow is smooth and smooth is fast".  We use it to help firefighters take the time necessary to be safe and in the end, things do get done faster.  Trying to work too fast, especially by skipping procedures, results in mistakes that slow things down and/or make things unsafe.  The last thing we as outdoor enthusiasts want to do is to put our equipment or our family at risk.  Take the time to do it right.  If you don't have time to do it right, when are you going to have time to do it over?  And believe me, everything is LOT easier to handle at home with the right tools and easier access to parts and supplies than it is in camp, on the road, or on the trail.

Once everything is properly serviced and prepared the next logical step is planning your outing.  I suggest you choose a favorite, familiar destination and activity for at least the first trip each year.  Most of us will not have been using our recreational equipment for several months over the winter and no matter how expert we might be, lack of activity takes its toll.  Choose a familiar destination so aren't distracted by navigating new routes or terrain.  If you are riding OHVs, ride familiar trails and warm up on some easy routes before hitting those black diamond trails.  Both your body and your ride will appreciate it.  You might be tempted to jump right back into some of the more exciting moves or hit the trails fast.  Better to work back into it and warm up a bit first.  And remember, like a very experienced desert rider once told me, ''If a trail isn't fun at 25 mph, it isn't a fun trail!''  You don't have to be running at full throttle all the time to have fun.  And there are lots of interesting trails to ride if you are willing to do a little research and exploring.  Looking for something new to try?   Look for trails with interesting history, unusual obstacles, or intriguing destinations.

Now, some of us may have been looking forward all winter to a new experience and may find it difficult or impossible to start the season with some kind of warm up trip.  While I strongly recommend that first shake down cruise, I realize the appeal of a new venture might be overwhelming.  If you choose to pursue a new destination or activity for your first trip of the summer, invest a little time in making sure everything is ready:  your vehicles, your gear, your provisions, and you and your fellow participants.  The last thing you want is for you first trip to be a disaster!  It is particularly necessary to study new destinations and/or activities ahead of time so you are properly prepared.  It would really knock your hat in the creek to encounter a weight limit on a bridge that is below the weight of your rig or arrive at a campground and discover there are length limits you exceed!  Quite often we may have upgraded our vehicles or equipment over the winter and this first trip of the season will be our shakedown cruise.  Allow extra time to adjust to operating new equipment and for making any necessary adjustments or repairs as you go.  If you do have new equipment, it might be wise to take an easy shakedown/break in  cruise before launching on a full blown outing.

Get out there and have fun!

Why Would Anyone Ever Retire From The Outdoor Lifestyle?

Most people will not willingly choose to retire from an active outdoor lifestyle.  But many are forced into it due to injury or illness that interferes with it physically or emotionally.  Like just about any kind of activity, it is possible to tire of it.

If you are one of the rare birds who are tired of your outdoor lifestyle or you have a condition that proscribes it, then maybe it is time for your to consider retiring and disposing of all your gear. But most outdoor enthusiasts will want to continue their enjoyable and highly rewarding activities until they are forced to give them up.  Either way, it could take as much planning to retire your vehicles and equipment as it does for you to retire -- and perhaps more than it did to acquire them in the first place.

Retiring from the outdoor lifestyle is not something most of us would like to think about.  We all hope we will stay healthy enough to enjoy our chosen activities forever.  Unfortunately that doesn't happen for everyone.  The time may come when old injuries or new health issues impact our ability to continue our preferred past times. Or maybe you've just done everything you want to do.  That may mean making changes to what we do and/or how we do it.  Or, in the worst case scenario, you may have to give up your treasured fun.

When will you know it is time to retire?  That will be different for every person, but if you have suffered significant injuries, under gone major surgeries, or gotten seriously ill, you may have to, at the very least, make some changes in your recreational activities.  As we get older some of us will experience failing eyesight and may no longer be able to drive.  If that is the case you may be able to call on family or friends to take over the driving so you can continue to enjoy your favorite destinations and forms of fun.  Other health related conditions may require modifications to our camping choices and equipment.  I have seen riders paralyzed by a previous accident continue off-road riding using vehicles with modified controls.  That might be an option for some people, but not everyone.  My preferred off road vehicle is a dirt bike but while working as an ATV mechanic at an off road resort one summer I got to play with ATVs and side-by-sides and it was comforting to think that if I ever reached the point where I couldn't ride my dirt bike I still might be able to enjoy off roading on 4 wheels.  A riding buddy of mine was asked why he didn't take up golf as he grew older.  His reply:  I can still swing my leg over my dirt bike!

Let's face it.  Eventually we are all going to get older.  Some people seem to age slower than others.  I am now 78 and still in pretty good shape, good enough serve as a volunteer firefighter and EMR and work as a summer firefighter as well as to keep riding by dirt bike and sailing when I get a chance.  However,  I do find that some movements are more difficult than they used to be and the ground comes up a lot harder jumping down out of my pickup bed than it used to!  One of these days I realize my physical limitations may impose unwanted restrictions on my outdoor activities.   I know too many people for whom that is already happening.  One thing I am sure of though.  As my grandfather said:  ''A man will rust out quicker than he will wear out"!  And I have seen many examples of that.  So I have no plans of stopping.

If or when the time comes to give up your outdoor activities you may be faced with disposing of your treasured vehicles and equipment.  Some may pass it down to other family members or friends.  Or you may end up selling it off.  Selling it can be emotionally stressful but it may also provide you with a little extra cash to enjoy whatever new things you may want to pursue.  If you end up in a position where you have to sell off your items, be sure to check out the market and set appropriate prices.  You will, of course, want to get back as much of your investment as possible but setting prices too high will delay sales and you could up having to settle for much less at a later date.  Setting prices low will help move things quickly, but if they are too low you will be depriving yourself of deserved revenue.

I just turned 78 and my wife has been encouraging me to begin down sizing.  Fortunately we are both still in pretty good health.  I am not sure I am quite ready to do that yet, but she does have some good arguments on her side.   Investments in things like RVs, OHVs, and boats depreciates every year and even if they are not being used they could be a drain on the budget (registration, insurance, storage.  etc. for example).  I have to admit that our current lifestyle does not give us much time for the fun leisure activities we would like to enjoy, but I keep hoping that is eventually going to change.

Before you decide to"lighten the load" make sure you aren't getting rid of anything you will want or need again!  If you are SURE you won't ever ride your OHV or go out in your RV or boat again, then go ahead and find new homes for them.  But if your circumstances may change such that you could resume your desired activities, you may want to hang onto them.  Replacing them later is only going to cost a lot more money.  Only get rid of them if you are certain you won't ever want to or be able to use them again.  You may be able to lighten the load a bit by disposing of duplicate or unused items.  Most campers tend to collect extra stuff over the year.  We find bargains or get gifts that end up spending most of the time on the shelf.  These are prime candidates for being recycled to other campers.  We passed quite a bit of our excess stuff along to our children.  We also sold a lot of it during one of our moves, only to have some of our kids come asking about borrowing it only a few months later.  We got rid of several tents then ended up having to buy one for a church activity where we couldn't use our RV.

The answer to the question of eliminating equipment and gear may be affected by whether you have the resources available to continue to keep them or not.  If you are headed into a retirement home with little or no storage, you may have to eliminate almost all your camping and outdoor recreational items or rent a storage unit.  But, if you are remaining in you own home with adequate storage, you may be able to keep things you think you may be able to use again.  Of course, if your physical condition is such that you are certain you will never be able to use any of your gear again, parting with it sooner rather than later makes sense.  

In some cases it may make sense to lighten the load without eliminating all your stuff.  Getting rid of unused vehicles that might have registration and insurance costs can help relieve the strain on the budget but, if your health permits, hanging onto some tent camping equipment if you have room to store it might still make sense.

If you decide to sell off your outdoor recreational gear and equipment you can place ads in local newspapers or online sites like craigslist or ebay.  You may also be able to sell some of it via a yard or garage sale, if your personal situation (physical condition, appropriate place to hold the sale etc.) permits.  You might want to check with family, friends, and neighbors before listing things for open sale.  You might find it more pleasing to pass treasured items on to family or friends than to sell them to strangers, even when selling them might get you more money for them.

Something that might make the whole process more appealing is to find another form of recreation.  That isn't always easy, but with so many options available in today's world, it is possible.  You might even want to start researching alternative hobbies before you get to the point where you HAVE to make a change.  With virtually immediate access to almost unlimited information on the Internet you should be able to explore alternatives and make wise decisions long before it becomes absolutely necessary.  You might not have to totally abandon your outdoor interests.  You may be able to apply your extensive history and experience to advise other people, and you might find that nearly as much fun and rewarding as doing it yourself.  I have not yet begun to reach the level where I must physically abandon my favorite past times but  have begun to find rewards in writing this blog.

Keep on keeping on!

Is Spring Ever Going to Get Here?

Spring seems to be reluctant to show itself this year.  Here in McKenzie Bridge, Oregon we celebrated the first day of spring (March 20, 2023) with a Winter Storm Alert, forecasting up to 48" of new snow above 3000'!  Fortunately we didn't get nearly that much at our 1300' elevation, but even 2/3 of the way through April we are still getting snow.  Of course this is good news for areas so hard hit by recent drought.  Last I heard, Oregon was at 172% of normal snow, California about the same, and Utah at 201%!   All the extra snow should help refill some of the lakes and reservoirs that are at historic lows but it will take several years for them to fully recover from so many years of drought.

The late spring may have caused some RVers and campers to postpone spring cleaning and other preparations for a new recreational season.  Although we might not be able to get out and enjoy all of our favorite places for camping and outdoor recreation for a while yet, it is still a good idea to being preparations.  It usually takes a little time to get everything out of storage, cleaned, re-provisioned, and ready for the new season.  It seem like no matter how carefully we perform our winterization procedures, we always find something that needs repair or extra cleaning or other extra help before we are ready to hit the road.  Pests can infiltrate tents, sleeping bags, clothing, and provisions even when we have them stored in the most secure ways we can devise.  The last thing you want is to unroll your tent or sleeping bag in camp and discover is has been soiled or devoured by ravenous insects!  Such a discovery is never fun, but it is a lot better to make it at home where we can do something about it well in advance of needing to use it on an outing.

Having a delayed start on our outdoor activities can also give us a chance to do a little more research and a little more planning.  Doing so can enhance our summer activities more than you can imagine.  Whether you are looking for new places to go and things to do or just learning more about your favorite haunts, spending a little time on the Internet asking some relevant questions can yield a plethora of fun and useful information.  Knowing more of the geological and historical aspects of where we are headed can be a lot of fun and add greater depth to out enjoyment.  My family and friends had been dirt biking around Randsburg and Searles Station in the Mojave Desert in California before I learned that one of our usual campsites (Garden City) had once been a major stop for the famous Borax 20 Mule Teams and then a primary rail center.   All that remained when we were there was a decaying railroad water tower.  Not too far from there is also a small monument erected by an Eagle Scout at the site of an X15 crash to recognize the sacrifice of Major Michael Adams, American's 27th Astronaut (having flown the X15 to more than 266,000 feet) and the first official astronaut casualty. The concrete marker isn't grandiose, but it sparks the imagination. Try Googling "X15 crash site" for details and photos.

Given the long history of many of our state and national parks, you can almost always find lots of interesting stories regarding past and even regular ongoing events that can be fun to know and fun to share.  Some places, like Yellowstone and Devils Tower, have tons of geological features you will enjoy learning about too.

I have a couple of "spring" poems I find kind of fun:

FIRST:

Spring has sprung

The Grass has riz

I wonder where the flowers is! 

SECOND (actually kind of focused on summer, but starts with spring):

Spring has sprung

Fall has fell

Summer's come

And its hotter than ... it oughta be!

About a week after posting this lament on the delayed spring we suddenly had several very warm days, with temps getting up to 95F!  But now the highs are back down in the 60s and even down into the 50s in the coming days.  So, you never know what the weather is going to do!  Don't like the weather?  Just wait a minute!

Well, only a week or so after the late Winter Storm Alert we are back to 80 and 90 degree days.  The trees have leaves and lawns need to be mowed every week.  Guess it is about time to start planning this season's outings.

Enjoy the delay!

Spring Is Just Around The Corner -- Time To De-winterize Again

Today is March 6.  The first day of spring is about 2 weeks away.  Of course, what the calendar says and how the weather behaves are often two very different things.  A couple of years ago we got around 3'of snow in late March!  That being said, it is still time to start thinking about getting ready for your next season of RVing, OHVing, camping, and boating.

Unless you live the in sunbelt you will probably have put all your RVs, OHVs, boats, and camping gear in winter storage several months ago.  Hopefully you did that correctly, making sure everything was clean and properly serviced before being put into storage.  If so, getting it ready for service now should be pretty straightforward.  If not, you may be facing a lot of tedious, unpleasant and possible expensive surprises!  Failure to properly prepare things for storage can result it premature failure of many pieces of equipment.  Damp tents and sleeping bags can mildew and rot.  Perishable provisions can go bad and create a nasty mess.  Gasoline motors that were left with fuel in the fuel system may need expensive cleaning before the engines will run again.  Tools may have gotten damp and rusted.  Camp stoves and lanterns may need tune ups.

Regardless of the current status of your equipment, the sooner you inspect it, the sooner you can address any problems that might have developed and get them scheduled for repair.  If you put everything away correctly, preparation for the upcoming season should be pretty simple, mostly unpacking and inspecting things, updating expired provisions, and preparing motorized equipment for operation.  RVs and boats that were winterized to prevent freezing in cold climates will need to be purged of antifreeze and the water systems flushed and refilled for use this season.  All camping equipment should be carefully inspected as varmints can sometimes damage soft goods in storage and hard goods, like tools, may have rusted in damp climates.  Any damage should be promptly repaired.  Items beyond repair should be replaced.  Appliances, such as camp stoves and lanterns and in RVs and boats should be tested to ensure they are ready for use.  Spiders seem to have an affinity for propane and often build webs and nests inside the propane lines and burners.  They can sometimes be cleaned out with compressed air but often require a thorough brushing with a special tubing brush to remove them.  Most rusty tools and equipment can be cleaned and lubricated so they can be put back in service.  Some badly rusted joints may require treatment with penetrating oil or even heat from a blow torch to loosen them up again.  Surface rust can be removed by light sanding.  Dull tools should be sharpened.  Wooden handles on hammers, axes, and hatchets may need to be sanded and rubbed with linseed oil.  All your tools should be inventoried, inspected, and properly organized.

Getting an early start can help you deal with more difficult and expensive repairs more easily.  Having more time to work on things, order needed parts, or locate replacements will reduce the stress and allow you to spread the expense over more time before you need them for your first outing of the new season.  Having more time can let you shop around for the best prices on things you need.  I once paid about $3.00 for 1 or 2 cord clamps for the ties on my sleeping bags when I needed them right away for an outing.  After getting home I was able to stock up on 50 similar cord clamps off of ebay for about the same price! 

If you are like me, a lot of camping equipment may be getting kind of old, but still useful.  Older equipment is sometimes difficult to find parts for.  One of the first places I look for obsolete parts is ebay.com; craigslist,com is another pretty good option.  You might find good used equipment at garage sales, thrift stores, and second hand stores that can serve as replacements or as donors to repair what you have when new replacement parts are no longer available.  How camping equipment is used is both good news and bad news.  The good news is that when we find it, it is often still in good shape.  The bad news is most of us never get to use it enough (which is why we can still find older stuff in good shape!).  Sometimes I would rather buy an older piece of equipment in good condition that even a brand new one.  One prime example that comes to mind is the carrying cases for Coleman lanterns.  The older ones were made of metal and had a nice square shape that fit well into storage compartments.  The newer ones are made of plastic and are kind of bulky and have a strange, barrel shape that doesn't fit anywhere well.  The plastic may actually provide more shock protection and are more resilient to dents and corrosion, but I still prefer the older ones.

After a winter away from outdoor activities, getting our stuff ready to use can be kind of fun and cathartic.  Sometimes we may have even forgotten about some of  the pieces of equipment or the tools we have in our kit.  Going through everything and inspecting it refreshes our memories of what we have and where it is so we can find it when we need it during this new season of fun.  So spring preparation can have a lot of useful benefits as well as being kind of fun after our winter hiatus.  Sometimes rediscovering forgotten equipment is almost like getting extra Christmas presents!

Spring also means the beginning of Daylight Savings Time in most US states.  "Spring ahead; fall back" is a good way to remember which way to change the clocks.  I kind of like the "fall back" change better as it yields an extra hour of sleep instead of stealing one!  Almost all of us have forgotten the change the clocks at least once and showed up an our late or an hour early for a meeting or an appointment. 

 Spring?  Well, maybe!  Here in Oregon we got a Winter Storm Alert on the first day of spring, predicting up to 48" of new snow above 3000'.  Some friends in Utah and California reported similar weather anomalies.  Some areas have around 170% of normal snow pack.  Utah is up to 201%!  The extra snow is certainly good news given the long drought we have been experiencing, but it will probably take several years of above normal snow fall before things begin to get back to "normal".  In the mean time, we still need to get ready for the upcoming season.

Spring into spring cleaning!

Happy New Year: Go Campers!

First I want to thank all those who have viewed this blog during the past year.  And I want to give a special thanks to those who took time to leave comments.  Your feedback helps inspire me and is often useful to other readers.

The New Year is a good time to make new plans for camping, boating, and off roading. Very few if any of us every get to do our favorite recreational activities as often as we would like.  Looking ahead to a New Year is an opportunity to commit to fulfilling some of our wishes -- things we wish we had, things we wish we did, places we wish to go.

Each New Year many people make New Year's Resolutions.  Unfortunately, many of those resolutions are just good intentions that never get implemented.  You can avoid this problem by either not making any resolutions at all or by only making resolutions you know you can and will complete.

For campers, RVers, OHVers, boaters, and other outdoor recreationalists,  New Year's Resolutions often take the form of goals they want to achieve in the next year.  They can be helpful in focusing attention and resources on your priority goals.  If you really want to implement your New Year's Resolutions, make sure they are reasonable.  For most of us a goal to purchase a million dollar motorhome this year is not at all realistic while a goal to upgrade so some reasonable level might be.  You can still hang onto that dream (or pipe dream) of a million dollar motorhome in your fantasy folder.

Some more mundane but potentially important goals might include completing needed repairs or upgrades to your equipment or planning visits to new destinations.  

Once again, make sure you plans can be accomplished with the resources you have available.  A goal to spend a week camping on the Sea of Tranquility on the moon is way beyond just about anyone but Elon Musk, but a visit to someplace like The Grand Canyon or Yellowstone National Park is probably within reach for most of us, depending on how far we live from those magnificent attractions.  And there are wonderful places to visit all over the country, so do some exploring!  Many places offer historic or geologic insights that are informative and entertaining.  Making a resolution to visit an important historical site near your home might be a good, achievable resolution that would pay many dividends.

Some very worthwhile goals might include establishing a regular schedule to perform required and preventative maintenance on your recreational vehicles and equipment.  Set aside some time, perhaps every week or at least every month, to inspect, clean, and maintain all of your equipment.  Taking a little time to clean things up regularly can help you detect problems early so they are easier and less expensive to take care of.  Cleaning is usually a good way to thoroughly inspect each item.  Look for damage, normal wear and tear, and any stains or foreign substances that might interfere with normal use.  Any issues left unattended are only likely to get worse over time.  Be sure to lubricate any moving parts with the appropriate lubricant.  I like to use a dry Teflon lube on things like awnings and camp chairs so it doesn't stain the fabric.  Some mechanical parts require a specific lubricant.  You are probably already familiar with the grade of motor oil engines on your vehicles require.  Other mechanical parts require different types and grades of lubricant, such as gear oil in manual transmissions and differentials and grease in wheel bearings.  RV slide-out mechanisms require a specially formulated lube that clings to the moving parts without dripping onto the floor underneath while providing sufficient lubrication to ensure smooth movement and reduce wear.  A drop or two of just about any kind of oil is all that is usually needed in the manual fuel pump cylinders on gasoline stoves and lanterns.

Another worthy goal that most of us should be able to accomplish is setting aside time for our desired activities.  Having made a New Year's Resolution to, for example, go camping, boating or dirt biking at least once a month may help you to avoid putting it off.  It is all too easy to allow normal day-to-day things to keep us from having fun.  Sticking to a New Year's Resolution might give you a little more incentive to make time for the fun you and your family need and deserve.  Once again, make the goal one you actually can achieve.  Weekly outings are probably too much for most people while monthly forays might be within reach of almost everyone.

Here is an admittedly self-serving suggestion:  resolve to review this blog at least once a week!

Happy New Year!

Drones For Campers, Off Roaders, and Boaters

Recreational drones are becoming fairly commonplace among outdoor enthusiasts these days.  As cost comes down and both the ease of operation and licensing and legal requirements diminish it becomes every more accessible to everyone.  However, not everyone appreciates the proliferation of drones around our campground and other outdoor activities.  They can sometimes be kind of a nuisance and may even intrude on individual privacy.  Having someone else's drone buzzing around your campsite can be very annoying.  Sometimes recreational drones interfere with legitimate aircraft operation.  For example, drones flying around an accident scene or incident can prevent emergency helicopters from landing to give aid.

Some people fly drones just for the fun of it.  Just getting the thing to go where you want it to can be challenging and viewing the things you can see from the drone can be exciting.

You might use a drone to explore potential campsites.  You probably wouldn't really need one in developed campgrounds although you might still use them to pre-view potential choices.  But they could come in really handy for checking out dispersed camping sites where hidden obstacles along the way could seriously impede your progress or damage your equipment.

Drones can be really useful for off roaders.  Whether you are riding a dirt bike or driving a rock crawler, it can be helpful to scout the trail ahead.  Or to send out the drone to look for missing fellow riders.  Sure wish we had them when our kids were young!   Tracking down 6 kids out the the desert when they were overdue to return was often a real challenge.  At one point I started thinking about buying an ultralight aircraft for the purpose.  A drone would have been a lot better and easier and less expensive solution.

Boaters might use drones to explore shorelines for places to drop anchor or view rigging on sailboats.   It could be really helpful to know if there any debris that would interfere with using a cove as an anchoring site -- or if it is already filled with other boats before you get there.

Some drones require FAA licensing or at least registration.  If you own or buy a drone, be sure to comply with all the necessary regulations.  This is important for your safety as well as the safety of others.

Operating a drone requires a certain minimum amount of training and skill.  There are a number of good Youtube videos to both introduce you to operating a drone and to enhancing your skills and capabilities.  But, just being able to manage the controls and get the drone to go where you want it to go is only part -- the easiest part -- of operating a drone.  Much more thought and understanding is required to make sure you operate your drone in a safe and acceptable manner.  Safety largely involves avoiding flying your drone where it can create a hazard for others.  There are legal limits on how high you can fly a drone (400 feet above the ground), but even at that altitude they can interfere with larger aircraft operating in the area.  One thing I have encountered as a volunteer firefighter is drone interference with our Life Flight helicopters.  Basically, if a drone is operating anywhere near one of our landing zones, the helicopter can't land.  A delayed landing of a Life Flight helicopter could literally mean the difference between life and death for some of our patients!

Acceptable drone operation also includes significant consideration for privacy.   Sure, it is possible to fly your drone over your neighbor's back yard and even take videos through his windows.  But it is not ethical nor legal to invade someone else's privacy or property without permission.  As fun as it might seem to spy on your neighbors, don't do it!

Drones are sometimes excellent resources for emergency services personnel.  The fire service is learning to use them to get more detailed views and information about fires and motor vehicle accidents.  They can also be used during river rescues to quickly scan the river for victims who have often been carried far from where they were last seen.  One problem emergency services drones sometimes encounter is interference from recreational drones.  ''Ordinary citizens'' are naturally curious about many emergency situations and may launch their personal drones, perhaps to learn more about what is going on or maybe offer assistance but often it just for entertainment.  Those personal drones can interfere with and restrict the operation of  legitimate emergency services drones and that could delay critical actions necessary to respond to the emergency.

Some commercial companies have begun to experiment with using drones to deliver packages.  It some ways that seems like a very good idea, a low cost way of making personalized deliveries quickly.  However, think about what will happen if drone deliveries become ubiquitous.  Imagine dozens or even hundreds of delivery drones buzzing around your neighborhood!  Obviously this will eventually require some kind of regulation and coordination, including prioritization.   One would certainly hope that delivery of life sustaining medications would take priority over delivery of a McDonald's Happy Meal!

Recreational drones can be fun and educational.   And they can provide important services.  I wish we had them when we were dirt biking with my 6 kids years ago!  It would have been so nice to be able use a drone to keep track of them or to help locate them if their bikes broke down far from camp.  Likewise they might be useful in searching for lost hikers or lost pets or scouting routes for hiking, biking, or riding OHVs or horses ahead of time.  There was a time I even considered buying an ultra light airplane to have to look for lost riders.  A drone would have been a LOT better solution!

One word of caution when buying a drone.  There are companies out there offering "free"drones.  Beware!  They usually come with a hefty monthly (and often hidden) "subscription" to some online service you probably don't even want!  That subscription may be as much each month as you would pay to buy a cheap drone on amazon.com!

Speaking of cheap drones, remember you get what you pay for.  Inexpensive drones can still be fun to fly but won't have all the fancy features of the higher priced ones and probably won't be as durable.  I have heard of problems with batteries that only last about 10% of the advertised flying time!   Look for legitimate reviews by other users or better yet, if possible, talk to other drone owners before buying one.  Like most technology, expect your drone to soon be made almost obsolete by newer, fancier models.  I recall a cartoon of a sign in a personal computer store window promising their new computers were absolutely guaranteed not to become obsolete before 10:00 am.

If you own or are considering buying a drone, please take the time to learn how to fly it properly.  And remember, that means a lot more than mastering the technical skill to make it fly!  Know when and where to fly -- and when not to!  Be aware that flying a drone anywhere near a wildfire or other natural disaster can interfere with critical air support.  If  you are flying, they can't.  Pay close attention to and respect designated no-fly zones.

Drone on!

December 21, 2022 -- Winter Solstice and First Day of Winter!

Today is December 21, 2022  It is the winter solstice (shortest day of the year) and is the first official day of winter.  By now you should have already winterized all your recreational vehicles, off highway vehicles, and camping gear.  If you haven't you'd better get it done quickly, especially if you live in a 4-seasons climate.  As temperatures drop, anything with water left in it is going to freeze.  Since water expands when it turns to ice it can destroy plumbing and any container that isn't flexible enough to accommodate the expansion without cracking or breaking.

You don't have to be a Druid or other pagan to appreciate the Winter Solstice.  It is the shortest day of the year and marks the end of days getting shorter and the beginning of them getting longer again.  For primitive cultures this was a significant, almost magical or supernatural and very welcome event.   It is still a very welcome event for us today, especially for outdoor enthusiasts.

The Winter Solstice often falls on December 21 as it did this year and will do again in 2023.  However, it may shift a day or two from year to year.  That is because our calendar does not exactly match the actual movements of the Earth.  Our calendar uses 365 days a year, with 366 on leap year.  The actual orbit around the sun takes 365.256 days.  Leap year approximately accounts for most of the .0256 day difference every 4 years, but there is still a .006 day variation that isn't accounted for quite as regularly.  Leap years are skipped when the year is divisible by 100 but not divisible by 400.  Thus, 2000 was a leap year but 2100 will NOT be a leap year.

Traditionally, the winter solstice has been a time to celebrate the harvest, the return of the Sun, and the dichotomies of life and death.  Harvest is usually complete by winter solstice and since it marks the shortest day of the year, it is the end of days getting shorter.  Daylight will last a little longer tomorrow than it does today.  The transition of days getting shorter to days getting longer seems to be an appropriate reminder of life and death.  Some winter solstice traditions include the burning of a Yule Log.  Today, Yule Logs often include candles and many seasonal decorations.

Traditional menu items for winter solstice celebrations include nuts, berries, squash, potatoes, and meat, just what you might expect to be readily available this time of year.  Modern societies don't generally make a big deal out of it, but in pagan societies, winter solstice was a significant cause for celebration.  It is very likely that our celebration of Christmas on December 25 is at least loosely connected to ancient winter solstice rituals.

If you are looking for an excuse to have a party, winter solstice isn't a bad choice.   You may have to a bit of research to establish any realistic themes or activities, pretty much all of which will have pagan roots.  Just celebrating the start of winter might be kind of fun and given modern attitudes toward winter, it might include winter activities such as skiing, ice skating, sledding, tobogganing, ice fishing, and snowmobiling.  Your winter solstice feast might include meat, potatoes, and wassail (usually made with beer, wine or cider and spices and served hot and is used to toast someone's health).

Here's to ya!

Winterization Reminder

Just a quick reminder that if you live in a 4-season climate, it is time to winterize your RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment.  Since I have covered winterization in detail in previous posts I won't repeat it here, just cover a few basic topics to help remind you of what you need to be doing.  Not properly winterizing your RVs, OHVs, boats, and camping equipment can expose them to severe damage caused by freezing in cold climates and may invite mold and mildew or damage by pests everywhere.  Water systems are usually a primary focus of winterization.  In cold climates unprotected systems can freeze and since water expands when it freezes, freezing can cause significant damage that can be expensive, sometimes impossible, to repair.  In milder climates water systems stagnant water may develop bad odors and can even accumulate toxic mold and mildew.  Winterization focuses mainly on freeze protection because that is most likely to cause severe damage, but properly cleaning and storing everything is critical to keeping it in good working condition and prevent unwanted damage during storage.  Soiled tents, sleeping bags, and clothing will attract pests that can wreak severe damage on the soft materials.  Bugs (including moths) eat holes in things; mice chew things up and leave nasty droppings everywhere;  mold and mildew weaken fabrics as well as giving them bad odors that are sometimes impossible to get rid of.  A little extra care in preparing your items for storage and prevent a lot of this kind of damage.

Keep an eye on the weather, especially dropping temperatures.   You want to make sure you have winterized all your camping gear and recreational vehicles BEFORE you get regular freezing days and nights.  As long as the temp remains above 32F water and water-based products won't freeze but below 32F they will begin to freeze.  RVs will usually withstand a little freezing overnight temperatures but when it drops below 24F or so at night and never gets above freezing during the day they will be very likely to experience frozen water systems if they have not been properly protected.  Water expands when it freezes with enough force to rupture even sturdy steel pipes.  The plastic pipes and water tanks on RVs are even more susceptible to freeze damage if not protected.

Any vehicle or piece of equipment that includes water needs to be freeze protected.  Either completely drain any water based systems or replace the water with potable RV antifreeze.  Engine cooling systems should be protected with automotive antifreeze of the proper concentration, usually 50-50.

RVs and OHVs that will be stored for next season need to be cleaned and serviced.  If they have water cooled engines, make sure the coolant contains enough antifreeze to protect them against freezing.  Today's gasoline with ethanol deteriorates quickly so it is best to drain fuel and purge fuel from fuel systems.  Turning off the fuel at the tank and letting the engine run until it runs out of fuel usually does the job.  Then drain the tank.   Additives such as Stabil can extend the usable life of gasoline but draining the tank is more reliable.

Camping equipment needs to be clean and dry when put in storage for the winter.  Damp and/or dirty items are subject to rot, mold, mildew, and insect damage.  Perishable provisions should be removed and each one stored appropriately.  Gasoline fueled appliances liked stoves and lanterns need proper fuel treatment.  Camping and OHV clothing along with tents and bedding should be cleaned and stored where it will be safe from pests (insects and rodents mostly).  Adding moth balls or used dryer cloths to the storage container will help deter pests.   Using dryer cloths avoid having the unpleasant smell of moth balls on your clothing or linens.

Camping tools, such as axes, hatchets, shovels, etc. should be properly cleaned, repaired, and oiled before storage.  Metal parts that are not protected are likely to rust.  Wooden handles benefit from being wiped down with linseed oil to prevent them from getting over dried out while in storage.  Canopies and camp furniture should be clean and dry before being put into storage.  Any moving parts should be lightly lubricated.

The off season is usually a good time to perform preventative maintenance and/or upgrades to your equipment.  Doing so during this time lets you take advantage of  "down time" to work on stuff without impacting normal usage and gives you something related to your hobbies to do during the off season.  You might also be able to take advantage of reduced off-season prices.  Or, if you snagged some bargains during year-end clearance sales, now is a good time to get them assembled and or installed.  You might have to wait until next season to try them out, but you will have them ready to go when weather does permit taking out your rig.  Go over your "to do" list for your camping stuff.  Winter is a really good time to make repairs or improvements without impacting your camping schedule.  It is also a fun way to stay involved with your hobbies when heading outside isn't desirable or practical.

You can also use the off season to review and catalog the last season's activities and do research and make plans for next year.   The sooner you document your activities, the better chance you will capture accurate memories of them.  Converting camping log books into more detailed histories for example.  You might be able to expand on some of your camping notes before the memories fade.   Or copying hand written logs into electronic format for easy long-term storage and retrieval. Researching new equipment and new destinations can be a fun way to use the time you normally spend participating in your chosen activities the rest of the year.  Finding things to add interest, fun, or convenience to your camping experience is always a productive use of time.  Identifying new places to go and explore expands your options along with bolstering your knowledge of your environment.  I found it was a lot of fun to learn more of the history of the mining camps and communities where we went dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.   We even got to visit the crash site of one of the X-1 test planes.

Make good use of your off time!

 

RV Power Cords and Adapters

RV power cords and adapters are pretty straightforward.  Just plug them in and you're all set, right?   Well, maybe.  If you have the right cord and the right adapter and plug it into the right source, it really is that simple.  However, if any of those are NOT right you could and probably will  have problems, ranging from poor performance to fire!

Most RVs come with an attached power cord that is appropriate for the power needs of the unit.   Most RVs have either a 30 amp or 50 amp electrical system.  30 amp systems have a 3-prong plug; 50 amp systems have a 4-prong plug.  It is virtually impossible to plug these into the wrong receptacle without using some kind of adapter.  I have seen some truck campers and older trailers that have a separate power cord and it is easy to use the wrong one here.  The unit is equipped with what is called a ''motor base''.  This is essentially a recessed male electrical plug into which the female end of an ordinary extension cord can be plugged in to supply modest power needs of these small RVs.  If anyone has added electrical components, such as heaters, A/C, or even TVs that significantly increase the power demand these connections might not be adequate.  Likewise if any RV has significant electrical additions it could exceed the capacity of the original power cord.  Most RVs use a 3-prong, 30-amp power cord but some larger units have 4-prong, 50-amp power cord.  Regardless of which one you have, it is imperative that you do not exceed the rated capacity!  Monitor use of appliances with high power draws, such as air conditioners, electric dryers, and electric heaters and make sure you don't try to run too many at the same time.  Even some hand-held devices, like hair dryers, consume significant amounts of electricity.

There are many different types of adapters available to give you more options.  However, just because you CAN install an adapter it doesn't mean you SHOULD use it!  You can get adapters that let you plug your 30 or 50 amp RV cords into an ordinary 15 amp household receptacle if you don't have a 30 amp RV receptacle at home.  That is OK if you don't try to run any high-amperage appliances (like air conditioners and electric heaters).  It will usually run your lights and power the fan on your furnace just fine and let the converter keep the house batteries charged.  A lot of RVers use a 15 amp adapter when running electric heaters in their RVs in the winter and that is BAD NEWS!  Very often the adapters will overheat, even to the point that they melt and could cause a fire.  Using an adapter to plug a 30-amp cord into a 50-amp receptacle shouldn't be a problem since the power available exceeds the demand from the 30-amp rated vehicle but you should still keep an eye on power usage so you don't exceed the rated capacity of your RV power cord or the adapter.  The other way around (using and adapter to plug a 50 amp cord in to a 30 amp circuit)could overload the circuit.

Another common problem of inadequate connections comes from using adapters and ordinary extension cords with standard 30-amp or 50-amp RV power cords.  Adapters are available that allow you to connect both 30 amp (3-prong) and 50 amp (4 prong) RV cords to regular 15 amp female outlets and ordinary extension cords.  These allow you to use low demand features like the 12-volt lighting but should NOT be used if you are using higher demand appliances like heaters or air conditioners.  NEVER use less than a 12-3 extension cord.  12-3 means it uses three 12 gauge conductors.  Smaller gauge cords will be likely to overheat and short out, possibly caused a fire.  Smaller gauge cords are less expensive but will cost you more in the long run because they can cause damage to electrical motors and appliances as well as increasing the risk of a catastrophic failure of the cord itself.  There are small, self-contained adapters that connect RV plugs directly to 15 amp female receptacles.  These will usually work fine for just running the lights, but if you use them to run heater or any other high amperage appliances they will over heat.  I have seen them melt both the female receptacle on the extension cord and the plug on the RV cord to where they could not be separated.  Larger, more expensive adapters consist of separate plugs -- a receptacle for the RV plug on one end and an ordinary 3-prong 15 amp plug on the other, connected by a heavy duty cable.  These adapters will be less prone to over heating but using high demand appliances in the RV could still result in damaging the connections, overloading the 15 amp circuit, or over heating the extension cord.  Also be sure to fully extend extension cords when using them.  If you leave part of them rolled up they can overheat often to the point of melting the rubber outer layer and perhaps causing a fire!

I recently had an RV shop tell me they get lots of customers asking why their adapters burned up and they said virtually all of them had been running electric heaters in their RVs.   The load of the heater is not enough to trip the circuit breaker but continuous operation builds up heat in the adapter until they melt and fail.  Owners do that, of course, to prevent freezing during cold winter months, and it seems to work OK -- until the adapters burn up!  Much better to properly winterize the water systems on the unit and remove all contents that might freeze.  And you won't be wasting money running the heater or replacing burned up adapters and power cords.

If your RV is too far from the receptacle for the built in power cord you can purchase both 30-amp and 50-amp extension cords.  They are not cheap, but they will function properly and safely.  And they can be used for very long reaches.  I recently read that cables appropriately sized for 50-amp RV cords can be used for up to 60 miles!  30-amp version are rated up to 20 miles.  No one is going to run extension cords any where near that far, but is nice to know they will work properly for our RV if we need to run an extra hundred feet or so.  The general rule for ordinary extension cords should not exceed 100 feet!  If you must use an ordinary 3-12 extension cord to reach or RV avoid using any high-power appliances.  About the only safe thing to run is lights; A/Cs, electric heaters, and water heaters will exceed the safe capacity of the 3-12 extension cord and/or adapter.

Proper handling of power cords is essential to ensuring good connections and long life.  The most common abuse comes from mishandling the connectors  You should always plug and unplug cords by getting a firm grim on the connector.  Pulling or pushing on the cords tends to break the cord right where it enters the connector, which can cause failure, might shock or even electrocute you, and could start a fire!  Similarly, bending cords close to the connectors weakens the wires and can cause problems.  Of course, you won't have good results if the plug isn't inserted firmly into the receptacle either.   Another fairly common problem is leaving excess cord rolled up when in used.  This can result in heat buildup that can melt the insulation, which results in failure and possible fire.  Cords can be damaged by being run over or dragged over sharp objects or from contact with rough vibrating surfaces.  Inspect all your electrical cords frequently and replace or repair any that have been damaged.  Small nicks in exterior insulation can sometimes be temporarily repaired using electrical tape, but cords with deeper cuts should be replaced or the damaged section cut out and proper repairs made to reconnect the remaining good parts.  Connectors can be damaged if the cord is yanked or pulled at an angle and sometimes burn out due to poor wire connections inside.  Good repairs should include properly soldered connections and safe repair or replacement of insulation.  If you are not absolutely sure you know how to make proper, safe repairs, replace the cord or have it repaired by a professional.  Damaged connectors are fairly easy to replace if you have basic tools and are reasonable skilled.

Using the right power cord, adapters, and extension cords (if needed) can deliver safe and adequate power to your RV.  Proper connections will relieve you from having to worry about damaging appliances and equipment in your RV, melting adapters and connectors, or over heating the extension cord.

Power up safely!

RV Covers

The best way to protect your RV from sunlight and weather is to put in a garage or at least under a carport.  However, those are not viable options for many RV owners.  Not everyone has room on their property for an RV garage or even a carport and construction costs can be very expensive.  Structures have to be extra tall to accommodate most RVs.

The next best option is an RV cover.  Some folks make due with tarps, but they have definite disadvantages.  For one thing, they don't really fit your RV.  A second problem is that many tarps prove to be somewhat abrasive where they contact RV surfaces.  And they don't breathe.  Sure, one of the purposes of any RV cover is to protect the rig from rain and snow, but RV covers are made to be breathable so moisture trapped under the cover can escape while tarps are nearly waterproof and will trap condensation inside, which can be detrimental to the unit being stored.

About the only time you shouldn't cover your RV is during a wildfire.  Blowing embers landing on the cover or more likely to set you rig on fire than if they land on a clean roof.  If a wildfire approaches, remove the cover from your RV and put it somewhere it won't become a target for burning embers.

As fall approaches, it is just about time to start planning winter storage for your unit.  If you don't already have an RV cover now would be a good time to measure your unit and start looking for a good value on an RV cover to fit it.  Custom made covers will fit the best, but will be the most expensive.  I purchased an off-the-shelf universal cover of the right size for my 36' Holiday Rambler Vacationer and have had excellent results.  It fit quite well.  Even the zippered door was exactly where it needed to be to line up with my RV door.  I have had it for about 5 years and it is holding up very well.

Covering your RV with a tarp, while not ideal, could be better than leaving it exposed.  Try to avoid having the tarp contact any painted surfaces where it could rub the paint away.  Stake it out so it is secure but leaves a little room underneath for circulation to prevent condensation and moisture buildup.  Making a framework of PVC pipe to hold a tarp up over an RV might be an affordable way to get fairly good protection without the problems associated with having a tarp in contact with the RV.

Installing an RV cover can be quite a project.  It works best if you have an extra person or two to assist you.  Unpack the cover and determine which end is the front.  You may have to lay it out on your driveway or in a parking lot to find the front.  Then re-roll it from the back.  Carefully get it up to the roof of your RV.  If you are comfortable with the weight you might be able to carry it up while climbing your RV ladder.  If not, climb on upon the roof and use a rope to haul the cover up.  I like to start by laying the rolled cover in the center or the roof near the back of the RV, then unrolling it all the way to the front before spreading it out and down over the sides.  Be sure to remove or flatten any antennas or other obstacles that might poke holes in the fabric before rolling it out.  One way of dealing with things like roof vents is to put a plastic tub up-side-down over them to support the cover.  Once the cover is fully extended down all 4 sides of the RV get down and pull it snug and, if it has a door zipper, try to align the opening with the RV door.  There are usually straps on the front and back to snug it down and ropes to pass underneath the unit and tie off on the other side.  You don't want to pull it so tight it stresses the fabric anywhere but it should be snug enough to keep it from flapping in the breeze.  If you are using a universal cover, make sure the zipper for the door is on the right side before you tie it down.  You may also have a little bit of leeway to adjust the cover to line up the zipper with your RV door.

Keep the cover clear of debris while it is in use.  That usually means getting up on top of your RV and brushing leaves or pine needles away periodically.  Accumulation of debris can hasten rot and can sometimes add weight that puts unnecessary stress on the fabric and even the roof structure.  Snow removal is also a good idea if and when it can be done safely.  You might want to try clearing snow and other debris from the roof by standing on a sturdy ladder beside your RV instead of walking on the covered roof.  Trying to walk on the covered roof can damage the cover and can be dangerous.  You might trip over obstacles hidden under the cover or be tripped by folds in the cover itself.

If your RV is stored anywhere near trees, frequently check to make sure no limbs or branches have fallen on to the unit and damaged the cover.   Carefully remove offending sticks and patch any holes they may have made in the cover.  Small, temporary patches can be made with duct tape.  For more permanent patches sew small tears and use similar fabric to patch larger holes.  Sometimes you can scavenge patch material from the storage bag if your cover came with one.

If you run your RV now and then while in storage (as you should about once a month), be sure the cover is clear of the tail pipe and air intakes.  The same thing applies to the furnace and water heater if you need to use them while the unit is in storage.  I have seen vents burn holes in RV covers and it could ignite the cover and burn up your RV!

Removing your cover in the spring is another strenuous task.  Once again, having an extra person or two to assist you is usually very helpful.  First, sweep any debris off the cover.  Then unfasten all the straps and ropes, then make sure the cover is clear from bumpers and mirrors.   You might want to mark the FRONT before you roll it up.  Then remember which way you roll it!  It will make putting it back on easier next season.  I usually pull up one side and drag the whole cover across the RV and drop it onto the ground on the other side. You may need a second person to guide it away from bumpers and mirrors as you pull it off.  You will want to find a flat, fairly clean space to lay it out to roll it.  Driveways, parking lots, and grassy areas are usually good candidates.  Don't lay it on a wet surface and make sure any pavement is free from oil stains.  Stretch it out from end to end, then fold both sides over to the center.  That will usually make a roll about 6' tall so, depending on the space you have to store the cover, you may want to fold it over again.  That will give you a shorter but much fatter roll.  I usually go with the taller, thinner format and stand it up in a plastic trash can for storage.  Remember which end you start rolling from so you will know where to position it on the roof the next time you install it.  If you start rolling from the front, you will want to unroll it from the back and vice versa.  Keep a brush or broom handy to brush off any debris from the roll as you go so you don't trap garbage inside.  Dirt and debris left in place during storage can cause staining and premature wear.   Once is is all rolled up, tie it off with rope or bungee cords to keep it from unrolling.  Store it in a clean dry place.  You might want to put some moth balls and mouse traps in and around the cover to keep pests out.

You will want to cover your RV before the winter weather sets in.  For one thing, it will be easier to peform the other winterizing tasks, such as freeze-protecting the water systems, with the cover off.  For another, you won't want to be installing the weather in the rain or snow and getting it on early will help keep leaves and pine needles from collecting on the roof or other surfaces and creating stains.

Installing your RV cover is a lot easier if you have at least one extra pair of hands.  Your first task is getting that heavy cover up on the roof.  Having someone to lift it up to you once you are at least half way up the ladder is the best solution.  An alternative, especially if you have to do it solo, is to use a rope to haul it up once you are on the roof.  Be sure you are standing in a stable spot and not too close to the edge as you raise the cover up.  Once you have it on the roof, try to orient it so the FRONT (which you hopefully marked when you took it off) is toward the front of the vehicle.  If not you will end up with it the wrong way and turning it around on top of your RV once it is rolled out is not a fun task!  One year I marked mine but forgot which way I rolled it up so there was no way to know which way it went until it was unrolled and found the FRONT marking on the inside end!  Once you have to going the right way, unfold the sides and drop them down.  I have my assistant help pull the sides straight and the same length and also help me align the zipper with the door.  The next step is to buckle up the fasteners on both ends, then connect the tie down ropes underneath.  It helps to tie a weight to the end of the rope so you and toss it under the RV to your assistant.  A simple overhand knot is usually enough and is easy for your assistant to undo on the other side.  Along with the RV cover it is a good idea to install tire covers to protect  your tires while your unit is in storage.

Cover up!

Illegal Campfires

What are illegal campfires?  Well, quite simply, they are campfires in defiance of posted fire restrictions.  They can be found in dispersed camping areas, back yards, and even in developed campgrounds during times of Extreme Fire Danger.  Fire Restrictions are NOT some kind of government harassment! They are legitimate rules implemented to protect people as well as our forest from the very real dangers of wildfires!  All thoughtful, intelligent, and concerned out door recreationalists will NEVER light illegal campfires.

I never cease to be amazed by the number of people who continue to light illegal campfires during fire season!  As it has been said, I guess you can't fix stupid!  Those HIGH and EXTREME fire warnings are there for a reason!  During HIGH fire levels campfires are only allowed in approved fire pits, usually only in designated campgrounds.  Gas and propane stoves usually may still be used in dispersed camping areas.  During EXTREME fire levels, NO CAMPFIRES or even gas or propane stove are allowed anywhere in restricted areas, not even in Forest Service campgrounds!

Last week, as a volunteer firefighter, I got called out at 1:45 am for a small forest fire a few miles from our home.  Of all places it was right across the highway from the local US Forest Service Ranger Station!  From what we could tell the fire was started by a camper who fled the scene as we arrived.  I sure thought that the 2020 Holiday Farm Fire and the smoke blowing in from current local wildfires and very obvious hot dry winds would still be fresh enough in people's minds that they would be more careful and more willing to observe posted fire restrictions.  After all, you have to drive through miles of burned up forest to get where we are!  Unfortunately, that is not the case.  There have even been a number of residents within the Holiday Farm Fire burn area who we have had to shut down for illegal backyard burning during HIGH fire restrictions.  Sometimes they think that the burned over area is no longer  in danger of burning.  They could not be more wrong!  For one thing, most of the trees killed by the fire are still standing as dead snags, just drying out and ready to burn.  For another, the nice rains this past spring promoted a lot of growth of grass and shrubbery, all of which contributes to easily started and fast moving fires as it dries out in the summer heat, fires than will easily ignite the dead trees left over from the 2020 fire.

A while back we were called to a forest fire at one of the local private campgrounds.  Fortunately we were able to contain the fire before it spread to more than a few acres.  The fire was the result of deliberate and blatant violation of fire restrictions not ignorance or simple carelessness.  The entire area was under EXTREME fire restrictions.  It was posted multiple places along the highway the camper drove along.  It was posted at the front desk and they were informed/reminded of it at check in.  In spite of that they started a campfire.  A member of the staff discovered it, reminded them of the restrictions, and put it out.  As soon as he left they re-lit the campfire!  Before long it had ignited the forest around them.  What idiots!  I believe the campground charged them a small fee for the violation, which was added to their credit card.  Kind of hope the State goes after them for all the costs of fighting the fire too!  Don't often see that but it does happen, especially when there is no question about the identity and negligence of the perpetrators, as it was in this case!

When you go camping, be sure to check the current fire restrictions where you are going.  They are usually clearly posted along the highways and at fire stations and ranger stations along the way and at the entrances to campgrounds.  Know what the limits are for each level of restriction and comply with all restrictions ALL THE TIME.  Ignorance will not be an adequate defense if you light an illegal campfire.

There are more than enough forest fires ignited by lightning or downed power lines.  The last thing anyone needs is for campers to ignore fire restrictions and cause even more fires!  Carelessness or deliberate violations of fire restrictions are responsible for most <85%>  wildfires.  We are losing pristine camping areas fast enough without people setting them on fire!!!

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Keep It All Going -- RVs, OHVs, Boats, Camping Gear

Our outdoor recreational equipment often represents a significant investment and we will want to protect that investment so we get as many years use from it as we can.  Lack of maintenance or improper maintenance can quickly result in premature wear and tear and/or complete failure of equipment and gear.

No matter what form your outdoor recreation takes, you have to invest a little time and effort and sometimes a little money to keep it all going so you can use it when you want to.  Motorized equipment usually requires the most effort and attention but even non-motorized camping equipment needs a little attention now and then to keep it in top shape and extend its useful life.  If you let things go, sooner or later it will catch up with you and your equipment will let you down -- usually at the worst possible time and place!  You might be surprised how little effort it actually takes to keep things in good shape.  Pretty much always a lot less time, effort, and money, not to mention inconvenience, than it takes to fix things once they break down.

Preventative Maintenance is the term usually used to describe what we do to keep our gear and equipment in top condition.  It consists primarily of performing required cleaning, lubrication and adjustments and is usually done before any problems have begun to show up.  Taking care of apparent problems falls under the category of repair rather than Preventative Maintenance.  Proper Preventative Maintenance can usually prevent many problems from every reaching the level where repair or replacement is required.

Motorized equipment (RVs, boats, OHVs) usually have owners manuals to guide you in required maintenance.  If yours didn't come with one you can usually purchase one from the dealer or find one online.  Lacking any owner's manual basic, some basic regular maintenance needed is to change the oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter.  Most vehicles also required regular chassis lubrication.  Chain driven vehicles like motorcycles and ATVs need to have the chains cleaned regularly and lubricated before every ride.  Air cooled vehicles need to have the cooling fins cleaned and any air access ways kept clear.  Liquid cooled vehicles need to have the coolant level checked frequently (before any trip in an RV and before any ride in an OHV) and changed according to vehicle and or coolant manufacturer's recommendations.  Coolant does break down and it can also get polluted by oil or engine gases.  Low coolant, caused by leakage, can result in catastrophic overheating which is usually VERY expensive to repair.  Radiators need to be kept free from dirt and debris and checked for leaks.

RVs and many boats are equipped with convenience systems that also required periodic maintenance.  Whenever your unit has a stove, furnace, refrigerator, water heater, water system, air conditioner, or any kind of electronic navigation or entertainment systems they will also need to be inspected and serviced as needed.  Owner's manuals for each device or system are the best source of maintenance schedules and procedures.  If you don't have owner's manuals for all your systems and equipment plan on inspecting and evaluating every one at least once a year, more if they get a lot of use.  Some things to check include any electrical or fuel connections, condition of burners on stoves, water heaters, and even gas refrigerators, lubricating any moving parts, and proper operation of on/off switches and safety devices.  Furnaces and air conditioners may have filters that need to be cleaned regularly.  Refrigerator cooling cools need to be clean and have nothing blocking the normal air flow required for cooling.  Water systems need to be checked for leaks.  Fresh water tanks may need to be purged and sanitized.  Waste water tanks need to be dumped and cleaned regularly and proper chemical levels maintained.  Electronic devices may have wiring or connectors that need to be inspected.  Any frayed wiring or loose connectors should be repaired or replaced ASAP.  Damaged circuits may not only degrade performance but may cause loads that can burn out internal components or even cause a fire.

Any vehicle with wheels and tires will need to have the wheels and tires checked before every trip and wheel bearings service according to manufacturer's specifications or at least once a year.  Tires need to be checked for proper inflation, adequate tread, and inspected for any sidewall damage.  Tires with inadequate tread or sidewall damage need to be replaced ASAP.  Proper inflation is necessary for comfort, performance and safety.  Of course this includes boat trailers as well as RVs, camping trailers, and tow vehicles -- as well as your daily driver!

Most motorized equipment needs to be exercised regularly to keep it in good shape.  If possible, it is best to take your RV, trailer, or ATV for a shore drive or ride at least once a month while it is in "storage" during the off season.  If that isn't possible, just starting the engine and running it for 10 or 15 minutes to let it warm up and shifting through the gears will help lubricate at least the engine and transmission.  When running your ATV, be sure to turn off the gas and let it burn up all the fuel in the system before storing it again.  Today's ethanol containing fuels go bad and gum up the fuel system pretty quickly if you let fuel sit there for a while.

Boat have their own special maintenance needs.  Motorboats have engines and drive trains that require service; sailboats have masts, rigging, and sails to take care of and often have auxiliary engines too.  In order to get the most of of any boat, you will have to keep it in good condition.  Not only that, you must keep them in good condition for safety!  Mechanical failures out on the water can be far more vexing and dangerous than in a camper or OHV on land.

Non-motorized camping equipment still needs to be inspected and taken care of on a regular basis.  Burners on appliances such as camp stoves and lanterns need to be cleaned at last once a year.  Pumps on liquid fuel appliances need to be checked and properly cleaned and lubricated periodically.  A few drops of oil on the leather gasket on lanterns and stoves will help keep it from getting dried out and stiff.  Fabric items, such as tents, awnings, packs, and sleeping bags need to be kept clean and stored where they are protected from moisture, sunlight, and pests.  Any tears or other damage should be repaired as quickly as possible.  Zippers on sleeping bags and packs need to be checked and possibly lubricated.  Tent poles and stakes need to be inspected and any damaged items repaired or replaced.  Tools need to be inspected and properly serviced according to the needs of each tool.  Axes, hatchets, and knives need to be sharpened.  Wood tool handles should be kept smooth and lightly oiled.  Metal parts of all tools should be lightly coated with oil to prevent rust or corrosion while in storage.

Disposable provisions can be both perishable and non-perishable.   Perishable items are usually removed after and replenished again for the next trip.  Non-perishable provisions, such as cleaning supplies and many first aid items need to be regularly inspected to make sure they are still serviceable.  Some items may have marked expiration dates, some may get used up, some may get worn out, and some, like Bandaids and adhesive tapes may lose their ability to stick.  All non-perishable items should be checked at least once a year and doing it more often (like before every trip!) will likely save you a lot of disappointment and aggravation.  Depleted provisions, sundries, cleaning supplies, camping supplies, automotive supplies, first aid supplies, etc., should be replenished before each trip.  Some specific things to check might include shampoo, dish soap, lantern mantles, motor oil, and spray lubricants.  Also be sure to check out any medicines (OTC as well as prescriptions) to make sure you have enough for each trip and they are not expired or contaminated.

Battery powered devices may be subject to battery failure or even corrosion.    Always remove ordinary batteries from flashlights and other devices before leaving them in storage for any extended length of time.  Check all battery powered devices and replace or recharge dead batteries prior to each trip.  If you find corrosion, clean it out as quickly and thoroughly as you can and put in new batteries.  A trick to prevent batteries from discharging excessively in storage is to flip one of the batteries in a multiple battery system around.  That lets you keep the batteries in the device but it can't get accidentally turned on.  Some LED flashlights depend on correct battery orientation and flipping batteries in them might damage the circuitry so exercise extra caution.

Things like camping chairs and beach umbrellas usually need very little maintenance but they can benefit from regular cleaning and occasionally the hardware may need to be adjusted and/or lubricated.  Greasy stains or bird droppings may speed deterioration or attract insects that can damage fabric.  Bent, rusted, or poorly lubricated components can cause excessive wear and premature failure.  Often even aluminum chair frames have steel components that can rust and could fail at the most inconvenient moment and leave you sitting on the ground!  Bent components might be carefully straightened but bent parts are likely need to be replaced eventually as bending (and straightening) them will have weakened the component.

Tools, like axes, hatchets, hammers, saws, and shovels should be inspected and kept properly sharpened.  Believe it or not, sharp tools are actually safer than dull ones.  Handles should always be smooth and tight.  All the tools in your tool box(es) should be checked regularly so make sure they are still there and are in usable condition.  Unpainted metal items should be protected by coating of light oil like WD-40.  Wooden handles usually benefit greatly from being rubbed with linseed oil.

Cooking utensils should always be kept clean and inspected for damage, such as loose handles or ragged edges.  Damaged items should be repaired or replaced.  Knives should be kept sharp and edges protected in storage both to maintain sharpness and to prevent you getting injured getting things out of the drawer or compartment.

Camp clothing should be cleaned and inspected.  Repairable items should be properly repaired as soon as it is reasonable to do so.   Often you can patch camp clothing in ways that are quite attractive and the patches themselves can become part of the camp ambiance.   Decorative patches or even recycled military insignia can often be used to make attractive repairs. Worn out or unrepairable items should be discarded and replaced.  No sense letting useless stuff take up valuable room in your valuable and limited space!  Some worn clothing might be recycled as cleaning rags or, if you are really crafty, braided into rugs!

Keep it going!