Jackets and Coats for OHV Riders

Since a lot of OHV riding is a summertime activity, coats and jackets are not always needed and are often overlooked.  However, if you plan to ride earlier in the spring or later in the fall or especially in the winter, you are going to need warmer riding gear.  And you might need at least a light jacket if you get caught in a summer storm during an outing. I have a compact nylon jacket that folds into its own pocket  and a plastic rain poncho that I tuck into the tool bag on my off road motorcycle in case I get caught in a sudden rain.  On cooler days I wear an Enduro jacket.

Riding coats and jackets aren't as essential a part of body armor as helmets, goggles, boots, and gloves, but when the weather turns wet and/or cold you are definitely going to want more protection!  Being cold and wet is not only uncomfortable, it can be dangerous.  You loose body heat 25 times as fast in wet clothing and can easily become hypothermic even in mild temperatures, especially when you factor in the wind-chill factor of riding an OHV.

A good pair of long johns under your riding pants and jersey is a good first step for really cold days.  Just make sure you have enough room for them inside your riding clothes so they don't bind or limit your movement.  You definitely don't want them to chafe!  And you don't want to wear them if  the day is going to warm up.  Dress in layers you can remove, rather than ones you can't!

Another trick is to wear women's panty hose under your riding pants.   A famous football quarterback used to wear them under his football uniform on cold days to keep warmer.  Another benefit that even works in hot weather is they provide a slick buffer between your skin and your riding pants, preventing the dreaded "monkey butt" that often results from straddling a dirt bike or ATV saddle on vigorous rides.  And, while they can keep you warmer in cool weather, they aren't really that much hotter in warm weather.  There are special undergarments designed to prevent monkey butt, but they are a bulkier and lot more expensive than panty hose.

Windchill jerseys are designed for use in cooler weather.  They are kind of like a sweatshirt for off road riding, giving you added warmth and protection from the wind without restricting movement and while maintaining adequate ventilation to prevent over heating.  They usually aren't too warm if the day warms up either.

In colder weather you may need a special riding jacket or coat.  The most popular style for off road use is called an Enduro Jacket.  They are usually made of strong Gore-tex nylon that provides excellent wind and rain resistance and a fair amount of relief from abrasion should you go down.  They are available in a variety of styles and colors. Some have removable liners that make them versatile for both cooler and colder days.  Most are at least water resistant if not waterproof.   They are good option when you know you will be riding in cool or cold weather.  I carry a little nylon jacket that folds into a pocket on its chest to use if I get caught out in an unexpected rain out on the trail.  Any nylon or Gore-Text jacket could be treated with a waterproofing spray like Camp-Dry for additional rain protection.  Enduro jackets usually have several nice-sized pocket where you can carry extra items such as GPSs, phones, maps, lens cleaning clothes, and chemical hand warmers

                               

Leather riding jackets are popular among street bikers.  However, they are usually too heavy and too stiff for most off road riding.  There are some heavy duty nylon winter street bike coats you might be able to use off road.  I have one I used for a while.  One of the things that made it work for me off road was it was about 1 or 2 sizes bigger than I usually wear, giving me enough room for normal riding gear underneath and still having good flexibility and freedom of movement.  It was a good option for really cold days, but for most days I preferred using my Enduro jacket which fit better, was more flexible and more comfortable and with the right layers underneath was perfect.

Of course another standard trick for cold weather activities is to dress in layers.   Having multiple layers keeps your body heat in but also allows you to remove layers when things warm up to you don''t get overheated.  Interestingly enough, getting over heated can also lead to hypothermia as your excess sweat cools you down faster than your body generates heat.  When dressing in layers pay attention to which layers you can remove out on the trail and how you will pack them for transport back to camp.  Using thermal underwear is a good way to stay warm but you usually won't be able to remove it out on the trail if things warm up.  Extra jackets or rain pants over your normal riding gear can be easily removed and tucked away in a back pack when the day gets too warm for them.

One last word of caution:  don't dress TOO warm!  Over-dressing will result in you getting too warm during your activities which in addition to being uncomfortable and perhaps generating unpleasant body odors can cause you to sweat enough to actually make you colder, cold enough to put you at risk for hypothermia.  If you are going to doing any kind of  vigorous activity, even riding a dirt bike or ATV, you should feel just a little bit cool (not cold) standing around before you start out.  If you are comfortable standing around you are probably going to be too warm soon after you start riding.

Stay warm!

OHV Riding Pants and Jerseys

Riding pants and jerseys provide reasonably comfortable protection for your limbs and torso when operating an off highway vehicle.  You will see people wearing less specific items like jeans and t-shirts but they are unnecessarily risking injuries that can come from just riding, let alone from accidents.  I didn't have real riding gear for my first few outings and I quickly learned the limitations of jeans and casual shirts.  Jeans and other work pants are not designed for you to straddle the seat of a motorcycle.  You will quickly discover they get tight in very uncomfortable places and lack the flexibility you need for comfort and proper movement on the bike.  Short sleeved shirts will expose your arms to sunburn, windburn, and scratching by brushes or branches along the trail.  Sweatshirts get too warm after only a few minutes of riding on even cool days.

Riding pants are sometimes called "leathers".  That is because the riding pants originally worn by old time motorcycle riders were usually made of leather to provide warmth in cold weather and wind and protection against abrasions when they parted company with their machines.  These days they are usually made of sturdy nylon like Gore-tex, augmented by plastic or silicone protective patches that often mascarade as logos or design elements.  Riding pants are usually equipped with soft hip pads that fasten to Velcro tabs on each hip.  The the better ones include pockets in the lower leg for knee pads that also cover the knee caps and shins.

                                                        

Riding pants should fit comfortably and not bind when you are sitting, standing, or walking.  Some have adjustable waists.  Make sure they fit snugly around your waist.  You don't want them loose enough to slip down while walking or riding!

Riding pants are usually made of a sturdy nylon that provides quite a bit of water resistance.  If you often get caught riding in the rain and your riding pants don't keep you dry, wear some rain pants over them.  You might also get extra protection by spraying your riding pants with Camp Dry.

A lot of riders simply wear jeans or sturdy work pants instead of riding pants.   True, it may be cheaper to wear available pants but they won't provide the level of comfort or proper protection of real riding pants.  Even tough "fire hose" work pants won't give you the protection and comfort of good riding pants.  The plastic logos are often strategically designed and placed to provide extra padding and skid protection.   Riding pants are also designed to accommodate knee and hip pads that provide a lot of extra protection when you  part company with your ride.  If cost is keeping you from buying real riding pants you can usually find pretty good prices on used gear on ebay or craigslist.  Because almost no one gets to ride as often as they would like you will often find riding gear in pretty good condition.

Riding "shirts"are called jerseys.  They are usually made of a fairly light and breathable but sturdy material so they can provide some protection against dirt and sand kicked up at trail speeds.  They need to fit comfortably and allow full freedom of movement of your arms.  Some jerseys have built in soft elbow pads to give a little extra protection but strap-on, hard elbow pads will give better protection.  Most jerseys are pretty comfortable in both warm and cool weather.  For cold weather riding, choose "Wind Chill" jerseys, designed to help keep you warmer in cooler weather.

                          

You will definitely see guys riding wearing a variety of tops -- t-shirts and even tank tops in hot weather and sweat shirts when it is cooler.  However, once again, these garments do not provide the comfort, flexibility of movement, nor the protection of a proper riding jersey.  Exposed arms and other skin will quickly suffer from sun and wind along with the impact of wind-blown debris out on the trail.  Short term pain and maybe even bleeding or infection is likely along with the long term sun exposure increasing the chances of getting skin cancer.  I know more than one desert racer who developed melanoma from over exposure to the sun.

Riding pants and jerseys were at one time frequently color coordinated to the rider's machine.  While the practice is still fairly common and is a good way to show your support for your favorite brand of equipment, more colorful options have become popular, very likely fueled by the exotic color schemes adopted by Supercross riders over the years.  It isn't unusual to find very macho riders even wearing a combination of pink and chartreuse regardless of the factory colors of their bikes.

Once again, you might get away with wearing jeans and a t-shirt or sweatshirt for a while, but real riding pants and jerseys will definitely be more comfortable and safer.  And it looks way cooler!

Dress right!

OHV Riding Gloves

Gloves are kind of a no-brainer for most off road riding.   Our hands are critical for maintaining control of the vehicle and are often exposed to both internal stress like griping handlebars or steering wheels and to external dangers from obstacles.  You might get away with wearing some heavy leather work gloves or even truck driver's driving gloves but actual off road riding gloves will be more comfortable and better protect your hands.  Off road gloves are usually fairly soft and flexible so they are comfortable and leave you with the good flexibility and dexterity you need to manage the controls  while also having special pads added to protect the exposed back side of your fingers and hands from unwanted impacts.  Work gloves tend to be bulky and often have fat seams that can cause sores and blisters.  The usually don't breathe very well and your hands will get hot and sweaty.   For cold days, wear Wind Chill gloves or add glove liners to keep your hands warmer.  Ski gloves are certainly warm, but usually are too bulky to handle the controls safely.  Ski poles require a lot less finesse than throttle grips, brake and clutch levers, and other controls.  Riding gloves are designed to fit comfortably, allowing you to grip the handlebars securely without seams hurting your hands.  They have vented backs with plastic ribs to protect your fingers and the back of hour hands from moderate impacts.  Glove liners can usually be used to add warmth on cold days.  You might need a slightly larger size of gloves if your regular gloves already fit snugly.  With my family of 8 off-road riders, glove liners would have been quite expensive (they typically cost around $16-20 a pair).  We found that simple knitted gloves worked well for us and were even able to get them at our local dollar store in packages of two pair!  The boys weren't thrilled about wearing pink or baby blue gloves, but no one could see them under their riding gloves and they did keep their hands warm.

                                       

Ordinary leather work gloves provide some level of protection but properly designed riding gloves will be more comfortable, allow more dexterity, and provide better protection against impacts than plain work gloves ever will.  Riding gloves have soft palms that allow a comfortable yet secure grip on the controls combined with a flexible armored padding on the back to protect against anything your hand may come unexpectedly in contact with -- like bushes, trees, or even the ground!

Regular riding gloves are usually vented to keep your hands cool on hot summer days but you can also get Windchill gloves designed for colder days.  Another option is to add glove liners.  The ones I've seen cost about as much as the gloves.  We found that simple knit gloves worked pretty well for a fraction of the cost.  Often we got them 2 pair for a dollar at our local dollar stores.  Sometimes they were pink or baby blue but, hey!, who's going to see them under you gloves anyway!

Having proper hand protection will make all of your rides better.   Good gloves will avoid blisters, improve grip, keep your hands warmer in cool breezes, and protect against scrapes and bruises.

Get a grip!

OHV Riding Boots

                                                         

 

Next to helmets and goggles, riding boots are probably the next most important and most specialized piece of personal protective equipment for riding ATVs and dirt bikes.  Because they are specialized, they tend to be a little pricey and some people shy away from them because of the cost.  Some people will substitute various kinds of work boots, but none of them will actually perform as well as riding boots.  Riding boots are designed to provide the kind of protection and support your feet and ankles need as well as the flexibility you need for proper control when operating an OHV.  Riding boots have fairly flat toes that fit under shift levers.   Toes on work boots are often bulbous and can be difficult to slide under shift levers.   No doubt you will see foolish riders wearing just about anything on their feet:  loafers, tennis shoes, running shoes, even flipflops!  But to be sure, it is only a matter of time before they pay the price.  Bruised or even fractured arches are possible just from kick starting a dirt bike without the right kind of boots.  And if your foot encounters a rock or log in casual footwear, something is going to get broken and it won't be the rock or log!  I have even seen riders get injured wearing riding boots but their injuries would have been a lot worse if they hadn't been wearing proper boots.  They came close to losing a few toes; without the boots they would have lost their foot!

Riding boots usually have a metal guard around the tip of the sole.  Work boots usually do not have this guard.  It is needed because the tips of your boots are often subjected to rocks and other debris when riding an ATV or dirt bike.  Without the metal tip the toes of your boots would quickly wear out and leave YOUR toes unprotected!  If the tip protector gets loose, tap the nails back in.  If they are too loose, stick a little piece of a wooden match or toothpick into the hole or replace the nails with short screws.  If you loose a tip entirely, replace it as quickly as you can.  I have to admit I wore work boots the first few times I rode my dirt bike.  I think they had steel toes for extra protection but the rather bulbous rounded toes of work boots (especially those with steel toes) definitely do not fit well under motorcycle shift levers.  Riding boots are designed with flat, square toes that make engaging and working the shift lever easier and safer while still protecting your foot.  The higher shaft, extending almost to the knee also provides a lot more ankle support and protection for your shins as well as guarding against spraining your ankles.

The tall shaft of riding boots protects your shins and calves from injury and supports your ankles.  Typical work boots have only 6"or 8"tops.  Riding boot tops are more like a foot tall, covering most of your shin and calf.  The added length also gives extra stabilization to your ankles.

Most all boots, including work boots as well as riding boots, have steel shanks.  The steel shank protects the arch of your foot when stomping on the kick starter and when standing on the foot pegs.  Properly formed steel arches also support the arch of your foot in a natural position while riding and walking.

I have generally found my riding boots were adequate to keep my feet warm in cool weather thanks to the heavy motocross socks I always wear inside of them.  If you happen to do a lot of riding in even colder weather, you can buy insulated riding boots.  However, given the relatively high cost of riding boots, I have never found it necessary to have insulated riding boots.  If I were doing a lot of snowmobiling I might change my mind.

My family and I have experimented with several different brands of riding boots, and there are certainly many brands to choose from, manufactured in many different countries.  The brand we have come to favor over the years is Alpine Stars.    I think we started with Tech 3s and worked our way up to Tech 10s.  Each generation introduced new features and benefits with the Tech 10 boots having removable booties that could be washed to freshen the boots between rides.  You can use the boots without the booties.  One of my grown sons, who is bigger than I am, borrowed my boots and since they were a smaller size than he usually wore he had to wear them without the booties.  Not generally a recommended practice, but it works in a pinch.

The center of the sole of riding boots is usually the first to wear out, especially if you don't have an electric starter and rely on kick starting your ride.  I have seen the soles of riding boots worn almost to the steel shank from stomping the kick starter and standing on the pegs.  Fortunately, new soles can be purchased and installed by a qualified shoe repair shop and they are a lot less expensive than new boots!

Of course your boots will look better and last longer if you take proper care of them.  I use spring clamps to hang my boots by the back of the shaft to prevent them slumping over while sitting around on the soles.  When they get bent over they can develop folds and wrinkles that may rub on your ankles and cause bruises and blisters.  Avoid getting your boots wet if you can.  Most boots have significant parts made of leather which will get stiff after it gets soaked a few times.  If you do get your boots wet, dry them as soon as possible, but don't subject them to high heat which can damage the materials.  Clean your boots after every outing.  You can use ordinary shoe polish of a matching color on most boots to cover scuffs and help restore the finish.  I like to occasionally use some Leather Balm to condition the leather and help keep it soft.  I use Maxxim SC-1 on both the plastic and leather parts of my boots for a final shine and as extra UV and moisture protection and to make it harder for dirt and mud to stick.

Riding boots use specialized straps and latches which sometimes break.  You can usually buy replacement straps at your favorite OHV shop or from the manufacturer's web site.  If the part of the latch that is permanently attached to the boot is damaged you will probably have to take it to a shoe repair shop to be fixed or replaced.  You can buy extra long straps if the factory straps are too short for your boots to fit around your calves.  Knee and shin guards and sturdy knee supports often take up more space than you have in your boots using standard straps.

The metal tips on the soles are held on my little nails and those nails can work loose over time.  Inspect the tips regularly and tap the nails back into place if any are coming loose.  Over time the holes may get worn so the nails don't seem to want to stay stuck.  You might try tightening them by removing each nail and inserting a little piece of a wooden toothpick into the hole before reinstalling the nail.  Another trick might be to fill the holes with some kind of plastic filler.  You want something sturdier than silicone sealer but more flexible than Bondo. You also might try replacing the nails with short screws.  Be sure not to over tighten them or you will strip out the holes in the soles!

If  you need new straps, buckles, or metal tips, do an Internet search for "motocross boot parts" and you will get plenty of options.  Replacement parts are relatively inexpensive and usually pretty easy to install.  If you have any trouble or doubt your skill to make repairs just about any competent shoe repair shop can probably handle the job for you.

Make sure your boots fit right!  Boots that are too large will be clumsy and will flop around and may cause blisters on your feet.  They may also make it difficult to operate controls such as brake and shifters.  Boots that are too tight can restrict circulation and cause pain.  You should wear fairly heavy motocross socks with riding boots to cushion your feet so keep that in mind when sizing your boots.  I like to wear a pair of light weight dress socks under my motocross socks to help prevent blisters as they are slicker than the fuzzy motocross socks.  The dual sock systems allows slippage between the light weight socks and the motocross socks instead of between my skin and the socks.  I haven't noticed any extra heat problems, even in desert temperatures over 100F.

The legs of your riding pants should fit inside your riding boots.  There should also be room for the shin guards attached to your knee pads.  If you have trouble fastening the straps you may be able buy longer straps or have a shoe repair shop make some that will work for you.  You don't want the legs of your riding pants over your boots where they can get caught on things along the trail.

Nancy Sinatra had a hit song called "These Boots Were Made For Walking".   Believe me, riding boots were NOT made for walking!  The stiff construction is designed to provide the support and protection you need riding a motorcycle or ATV.  Of course you CAN walk in them for short distances, but they won't be very comfortable for walking very far.  I like to change out of my riding boots as soon as I get back to camp from each ride.  That also avoids having the metal buckles and toes damage the interior of my camper or other vehicle.

Riding boots tend to be rather expensive, but, fortunately, with proper care, they usually last a long time.  And their cost is small compared to the cost of injuries from not having them -- direct medical costs plus possible loss of work plus pain and suffering.  Besides that, they look cool!

Boot up!

OHV Helmets and Goggles

                                                         

 

Perhaps the single most essential and irreplacable piece of personal protective equipment for OHV riders are their helmets and goggles.  You can sometimes get away with wearing substitutes for other parts of your body armor, but there is nothing else that gives the protection your head needs.  Head injuries are often very serious and even fatal and, unfortunately, are among the most common injuries associated with motorcycle and other OHV accidents.

Helmets should  be properly rated to meet certain standards of protection.  There are four primary rating systems:  Snell, DOT, ECE and FIM.   Each one identifies the organization that established, maintains, and certifies helmets to their standards.  Snell is the Snell Memorial Foundation.  Its ratings are required by certain racing organizations. DOTis the United States Department of Transportation.  ECE is the Economic Commission for Europe.  Helmets that do not have at least one of these certifications stickers are considered to be novelty helmets and should never be considered safe.  FIM is another rating system by a global motorcycle organization for helmets for track use.

Snell is perhaps the oldest and best recognized rating, even being sometimes considered to be the gold standard for helmets.

Any helmet used for off road activities or highway motorcycle riding should meet at least one of the accepted standards.   If you have a helmet that does not meet any of these standards you should replace it with one that does as soon as possible -- before you actually need it protect your head in an accident.  You don't want to put your head in a $10 helmet unless you only have a $10 head!

Helmets will not prevent all head injuries, but they will mitigate many of them.  No matter how strong or safe a helmet is, the impact in any specific accident might exceed its level of protection.  However, one thing is absolutely certain:  NOT wearing an approved helmet will significantly increase your chances of serious or fatal head injuries in an OHV accident.

Certified helmets are not cheap.   But it can be said you should only use a $10 helmet if you have a $10 head!  The medical cost of any head injury will quickly exceed the price of a good helmet, without even counting loss of work income or pain and suffering.

Helmets come in open-face and full-face versions.   Open face helmets are usually worn by riders on street bikes.  Most off-road riders wear full-face helmets.  Helmets are available with and without face shields.  Even when I have had face shields I wear goggles for better eye protection.  Street riders preference for open-face helmets may be due to a need for a greater range of vision in street traffic and off-road riders need the extra protection of the chin guard of full-face helmets.  All I had was an open-face street helmet for my first couple of dirt bike rides, but I soon switched to a full-face helmet and I have always been glad I did.  Many years ago I watched a rider air-lifted from a remote forest service campground after he caught a low hanging branch in the face wearing an open face helmet.  It nearly ripped his jaw off!  To his credit, he was back on the trails the very next day but it was a very painful, traumatic, and expensive incident.

Many helmets and almost all off-road helmets come with a visor.   If your helmet does not have one it may be possible to obtain an after-market visor to fit it.  Visors are really helpful when riding toward the rising or setting sun and sometimes help keep the rain off, at least when you aren't moving forward fast!

Many helmets include face shields.  However, a face shield is not an adequate or appropriate substitute for goggles.  A face shield will block much of the wind and deflect some debris but does not provide the complete eye protection you get from wearing the right googles.  Plan on wearing goggles even if your helmet does have face shield.  Regularly check your face shield to make sure the mounting bolts are properly tightened.   Vibration can cause the bolts to work loose and you could lose your face shield out on the road or the trail.  If it blows off it will most always be damaged beyond repair for further use.  The distraction could cause you to lose control of your machine.

Helmets are pretty much only good for one hard crash.  Once they have done their job they should be replaced.  Even if the helmet isn't cracked or doesn't appear damaged, the shock absorbing material inside is likely to have been crushed.  And while it has done its job absorbing the shock and protecting your head once, it won't be able to do it again.  It is designed to be crushed to absorb the impact.  It doesn't rebound.  Unfortunately there is no non-destructive way to test a helmet to determine if it has been compromised.  Better to replace it if it has been hit hard.  When purchasing used helmets look for deep scratches or scuffing or dings that might indicate it has been hit.  Ask the seller about the helmet's history, but be cautious because they might tend to downplay any problems in order to try to sell it.  If possible, buy only from someone you know and can trust or only buy new helmets.

You will see people with add-on decorations for their helmets, such as bristles, decals, paint, braids or pigtails, mohawks, and even cat ears.  There are some restrictions you’ll need to consider, of course, including what decorations are road legal and which, if any, will weaken your helmet.  Exercise caution whenever you modify your helmet so you don't affect the integrity or proper function of your helmet.  Customization can make it easier for other riders to identify on the trail or on the track.  Be aware that some paints and adhesives could degrade not only the finish but the strength of the helmet shell.  According to DOT standards, anything that protrudes more than 2/10 of an inch from the helmet's surface is unsafe. If your helmet has decorations or accessories like spikes and mohawks that stick up inches from the helmet, it's likely not a proper DOT motorcycle helmet.    These regulations are far more likely to be applied and enforced for street riding than for off-road use but even without law enforcement reminders, you should adhere to the standards for your own safety and protection.  Having some protrusion on your helmet get caught going under a tree branch could be very painful, perhaps even fatal!

Some helmets are equipped with ear phones and even microphones for use with radios.  If yours is not so equipped you can purchase headsets that fit inside the helmet to provide the same capabilities.  Finding the commercially available motorcycle two-way radio systems too expensive I adapted standard hand-held walkie-talkies using an earphone with an attached microphone.  I slipped the radio into a pocket on my Camel-bak hydration pack.  I have tried voice activated microphones but found that often the noise of the motorcycle caused them to turn on randomly so I normally use a setup with a push-to-talk switch.

Helmets are usually designed to be reasonably comfortable in all kinds of weather.  The close fit usually keeps your head and ears warm in colder weather but there is normally enough ventilation to keep them cool enough in hot weather.  You may need a face mask to keep your nose and cheeks warm in cold weather.   You can use an ordinary ski mask but you will probably be more comfortable with thinner nylon face mask designed for use with helmets.  The only downside I've found to face masks is that they let my breath fog my goggles.  You might need to experiment a little with different styles to find the one that works best for you.  Anti-fog compounds can help keep your goggles clear.

Goggles are next on the list.  Why?  Well, eyes are very fragile and you only have one pair of them.  If they get damaged you will likely be blind or have diminished vision the rest of your life.  Some riders like the fashionable appearance of sunglasses over goggles but sunglasses, even safety glasses, do not provide the same level of protection as goggles.  Sunglasses allow air flow around the edges, which can deliver damaging bits of debris into your eyes.  Properly fitted goggles block that air flow.  There is a foam covered gap between the inner and outer frames.  The gap allows air to flow to reduce fogging while foam filters out dust and debris that could injure your eyes.  When riding in bright sunlight it is helpful to wear sunglasses under your goggles if they will fit or wear tinted goggles.  Avoid wearing tinted goggles or sunglasses in late evening.  Auto-darkening lenses are available so you can wear the same goggles in bright sunlight, with darkened lenses, and after dark with clear lenses.  However, darkening lenses tend to darken fairly quickly (usually only a few seconds) but can take several minutes to return to clear.  Wearing them out on the trail they should adjust to diminishing light as you need it but they won't lighten up quickly if you enter a darkened space like a tunnel or under a bridge.

Goggles are prone to fog up during cool, damp weather.   There are anti-fog compounds you can apply to  reduce fogging.  The best one I have found is called Cat Crap.  Don't let the name turn you away.  It really does work!  Lacking an anti-fog compound you can sometimes get some relief using and old diver's trick:  clean the inside of your goggles with spit!  Sounds kind of disgusting, but it does help reduce fogging and unless you are seriously dehydrated you always have some available, even out on a remote trail.

Goggles and face shields are prone to get scratched.   You will want to do all you can to prevent that.  Helmets usually come with a nice storage bag that can protect the face shield when you aren't wearing your helmet.  Be sure to use it!  Goggles often have cloth storage pouches too.  If you lose yours or don't have one, use an old (clean) soft sock.  Both goggles and face shields can be cleaned with plastic polish to remove light scratches and restore clarity.  I use a 3-step product from Novus.  One bottle is for heavy scratches and contains fairly coarse granules.  The second step has finer granules, and the final step has really fine granules to polish the surface.  Goggles and face shields can also fog up on cold, humid days.  Anti-fog preparations can help reduce fogging.  The best one I've seen is called Cat Crap and it comes in both spray and cream forms.  Sometimes, in a pinch out on the trail, you might try the old diver's trick of spitting on the inside of your googles to help reduce fogging.  I have also seen Youtube videos suggesting using dish washing detergent on eye classes to prevent fogging and it might be worth trying.  Use a drop on each side of each lens and polish until dry.  Do not add any water.

If your OHV PPE budget is limited, focus first on a good helmet and goggle system.  Substituting ordinary work boots and gloves for riding boots and gloves increases your risk of injury in an accident and may not be comfortable,  But the risks of injury are no where near as much as not having proper, certified head and eye protection.

Heads up!

Global Warming/Climate Change and Camping, RVing, and Boating

We are constantly hearing about the problems of global warming (now called climate change) along with strong admonitions to reduce or eliminate the use of fossil fuels to stop it.  As RVers, OHVers, boaters, or even campers, we may even be pressured by environmentalists to totally abandon our favorite pastimes.  The famous Sierra Club at one time had a written manifesto that called for the total elimination of ALL off road activity by the year 2000.  Thankfully, that didn't happen.  One thing it did accomplish was to alientate their own 4 wheel drive members into a completely separate club.

In recent years the common reference has been changed from "global warming"to "climate change".  Don't let that fool you.  One of the reasons was that there was a decided lack of verified scientific readings to support the idea of global warming.  In some cases it was proven that reported data had been falsified in an attempt to support the unsubstantiated global warming agenda of certain groups.  However, there is still a lot of purported evidence for real climate change.  Climate change is not a new phenomena.  Consider the known Ice Ages of the past.

There appears to be two camps when it comes to global warming/climate change:  believers and non-believers.  To be honest I have always been a bit of a skeptic, almost to the point of being grouped with the non-believers.  For one thing, I think it is quite arrogant of us as humans to believe we can overwhelm nature!  There is a certain amount of evidence that is repeatedly touted as proving we are at fault.  However, actual historic evidence shows that periodic global warming is the result of cosmological changes in our solar system and earth's position in it, things we can absolutely do nothing about!  Yes, it appears that global warming is a fact.  And no, human beings have not been definetively proven to be the primary cause of it!

I recently discovered some very interesting independent research that clarifies a lot of things for me.  It acknowledges global warming as a fact.  But is also points out it is a natural phenomenon and shows graphs of regular repetitions of global warming for at least the last 400,000 years, based on geology, ice cores, and tree rings.  Perhaps the most revealing fact I learned was that in every occurrence, including the current one, temperature increased BEFORE CO2 increased!   It would appear from the historical  (and current) evidence that global warming causes an increase in CO2 and not the other way around as frequently and repeatedly claimed in popular media, who wants us to believe WE are increasing CO2 and that is causing global warming.  Since the temperature increase preceded the CO2 increase, that doesn't add up.   In fact, it kind of puts a grand slam on current "greenhouse gas" theories!  So, what does that mean for us?  Maybe we need to gain a greater understanding of the whole "problem" before we implement knee-jerk "solutions" that will very likely be ineffective unless they are based on solid science.  In almost every case, legislative solutions to technical problems have failed miserably.

Given that periodic global warming/climate change is historic fact, we might better spend our time and resources determining how we should respond to it, not flailing about with ineffective attempts to change it that significantly affects global economy and our personal choices!  We can learn from geological records what to expect in sea level changes and from things like tree rings we can learn about weather patterns.  While we may not be able to alter what global warming does to the oceans and the weather we CAN take appropriate actions to protect ourselves as a civilization and a species (and as individuals), against the affects.   We should be looking into what happened in previous global warming periods and devising protocols to ensure our survival and continued safety and comfort.  That might mean abandoning ocean front properties and focusing on promoting crops that can survive temperature changes.

Does any of this mean we should ignore "green"and "clean air" initiatives?  No of course not!  We still have a responsibility to be good stewards over and respect our beautiful planet.   We still need clean air to breathe.  Whether or not we are creating dangerous greenhouse gases we need to behave responsibly and protect all of our natural resources, especially trying to conserve those that are not renewable.  It should give us a greater incentive to look beyond the commonly promoted theories and invest a little more time in digging deeper and exploring all the relevant facts.  Then we should do what we can to promote appropriate social and legal responses that are relevant to the true situation in which we find ourselves instead of blindly following the self-serving mandates of people with personal biases and agendas they want to impose on us.

The use of fossil fuels seems to be at the heart of the global warming problem.  Burning coal and petroleum products to power our civilization produces millions of tons of pollution every year.  Nuclear power is one alternative to fossil fuels.  The fear of how to handle nuclear waste has created a public resistance to nuclear power.  However, I saw a recent report that showed handling of nuclear wastes was extremely safe and yields far less risk to human beings and the environment than the by products of of fossil fuels that we current largely ignore.   Widespread use of nuclear power plants to generate cost effective electricity may well be what we need to make electric vehicles practical.  Another recent study even showed eliminating the use of fossil fuels would actually increase climate change!

The use of renewable energy sources versus fossil fuels definitely makes sense.  It took Mother Nature millions of years to produce the seemingly abundant coal and petroleum products so much of our society relies on.  We can't replace them quickly or easily.  The conditions that created them no longer exist.  Wind, solar, hydroelectric and even tidal power sources should continue to be explored and developed.   Consider this:  virtually ALL the energy we have ultimately came from the sun!  Coal and oil came from ancient vegetation that stored solar energy.  Wind and even hydroelectric power are the result of sunshine.  Even nuclear fuel for our power plants came from exploding stars, fortunately NOT the one we currently depend on for light and energy!

Am I going to get rid of my RV, boat, and OHVs or leave them idle because of global warming?  No, absolutely not!  Am I going to feel guilty about my campfire emitting CO2 into the atmosphere?  Don't think so.  Am I going to use appropriately sized campfires instead of raging bonfires when I go camping?  Of course.  Am I going to keep my RV and OHVs properly tuned and use the most environmentally friendly fuels I can?  You bet!  Am I going to support research, education, and legislation that properly addresses our appropriate response to global warming?  Every chance I get!

Just do it!

Getting Emergency Medical Services (EMS) When You Need It When Camping or Boating

We are so very fortunate to have highly qualified Emergency Medical Services readily available to us most of the time.  However, the further you go off grid in your recreational pursuits, the harder it will be contact them and the longer it will take for them to get to you -- if they can even find you!  One of the most frustrating things I experience as a volunteer firefighter is not having good information about the nature of an incident and where it is.  Our designated coverage area includes many miles of highway, forest, river, and lots of campgrounds.  Fortunately modern cell phones with GPS can sometimes be used to locate a caller and hopefully they are near where help is needed.  I've even seen them used to track lost hikers and guide rescuers right to them!  But I have also seen situations where the GPS we got was far from the site of an accident along the highway.  Callers often have to go some distance to get a signal and not all pieces of electronic equipment are equally accurate.   If your pursuits take you into remote areas and many of our outdoor activities like hiking, camping, OHV riding, horseback riding do, it will be even harder for EMS personnel to reach you or even find you!  In some locations you will find it hard to even get a signal to make that most important 911 call.  It behooves you to know how to contact emergency medical services and how to help them find you!

As a volunteer firefighter and EMR (Emergency Medical Responder) I am acutely aware of the dangers lurking in outdoor recreational activities and the difficulty involved in getting emergency help when needed.  Too often our response is delayed by incomplete or inaccurate information about the situation -- or by how long it takes for someone to finally make the call.  Sometimes delays are unavoidable, e.g., the caller must travel some distance before they get cell service.  But sometimes people just wait too long before reaching out for help.  My advice, is always call sooner rather than later.  First responders would rather go on a dozen calls where they might not even be needed than have someone suffer or even die because they weren't called soon enough.   When participating in outdoor recreational pursuits, especially when going off road or off grid, plan ahead for how you will respond to an emergency if someone becomes sick or injured and needs medical attention.  Know where you will have to go to get cell phone service or obtain other assistance.  In some remote locations you may have to go to a ranger station to get help.  Sometime you can get cell service by going to the top of a hill or driving back closer to the nearest town.  Know where you have to go to get a signal so you don't waste critical time searching for one.  Seconds count in a life-threatening emergency!

Off shore boaters may be able to avail themselves of assistance from the Coast Guard, but sailors on inland waters may have to rely on park rangers and other local emergency response services.  Navigable lakes and rivers are often some distance from the bases from which emergency services operate and not all emergency service departments have boats to respond to marine emergencies.  Boaters often need to return to the dock or shore to meet emergency responders.

Campers, RVers, OHVers, boaters, and other outdoor enthusiasts often find themselves a long way from towns that have Emergency Medical Services.  Unfortunately, the kinds of activities we are often involved in increase the chances that we will need EMS.  Riding OHVs, working around campfires, maneuvering RVs and trailers, operating boats, rock climbing, and even just hiking can expose us to injuries we would not encounter at home.  At home it is pretty easy to dial "911" and get a quick response to get the help we need.  And then the time to reach the Emergency Room is usually pretty quick.  When we are out and about we may not have ready access to cell towers to even make the "911"call and once we do it will probably take some time for EMS resources to reach us, even if we give them good directions to our location.   Then it may take along time to transport the patient to an Emergency Room for treatment.  Thus it behooves us to make sure we know where to go to be able to make a call and how to help EMS find us.  Our rural fire department frequently makes use of Life Flight helicopters because we are 45-60 minutes away from any hospital.  In our area we have an insurance plane called FireMed that covers ambulance services and their premium service covers Life Flight.  You may want to obtain similar insurance in case you need efficient transport to the nearest medical facilities.

Today we all rely heavily on cell phones for basic communication.  The good news is that cell phones often have service in areas where there were never any land lines.  The bad news is that there aren't always cell towers near enough our outdoor activities to get service.Knowing where you have to go to get cell service just might mean the difference between life and death for an injured person.  Alternatives to cell phones might include CB and HAM radios that don't rely on cell towers.  Sometimes you can reach someone on the radio who has access to a telephone and can make that all important 911 call for you.  So, having and knowing how to use personal two-way radios could be a great advantage in an emergency.  CB channel 9 is the emergency channel but it is not as commonly monitored as it once was.  CB channel 13 is the unofficial RV channel.  However, the channel most commonly used by truckers is channel 19 and it has the best antenna efficiency so you might have better luck finding someone there.  You might be able to reach a trucker who is able to call 911 on his cell phone for you.  Be sure to give him the right information:  the nature of the emergency and the location, as correctly and concisely as possible.

Cell phone boosters are available that can extend the area of service for your cell phone, turning weak signals into usable signals.  Unfortunately they can't create a signal where there is none.  Cell phone boosters are kind of pricey, but you might find it worth the investment.  If you have anyone in your group that has any special medical conditions that might require fast emergency response, a cell phone booster might be a good investment.

Unfortunately, we face both higher chances of mishaps and slower EMS response times when we are camping or involved in other outdoor recreational pursuits.   Therefore we must be prepared so we can do our best to care for ill or injured companions and to expedite getting help for them when needed.  We can prepare ourselves to be able to care for sick or injured companions through basic and advanced first aid training, as frequently mentioned in this blog.  But we should also take steps to ensure we can expedite reaching EMS services and helping them to reach us.

There are a few things you can do to be better prepared if you do need to call EMS in a remote location.  First of all, I suggest you keep an eye on your cell phone reception as you approach your campground so you know where to go if you need to make an emergency call.  When boating, check your cell signal as you leave the dock.  Sometimes emergency calls can be made in fringe areas with weak signals, but just to be sure, know where you can get cell coverage when you need it.  Getting up on a hill top can sometimes help as it may get you above obstacles that would block the line-of-sight radio signals from the cell tower but if that isn't enough you should know how far back down the road you need to go to get cell service so you don't waste time searching for a signal, especially if you operate in waters.  Sometimes a cell phone booster in your vehicle and amplify cell signals in outlying areas.  Such systems typically cost several hundred dollars and will only work to boots weak signals, not get you a signal when there is none.  If you REALLY need remote access at all times you might consider a satellite phone, but those are still quite expensive to purchase and to operate.  Boaters may want to consider marine-band radios to expedite requests for emergency services, especially if you operate in waters under Coast Guard jurisdiction.    Land lubbers and boaters on inland waters may benefit from ham radios or even CB radios in some places.

Next, be prepared to provide accurate and concise directions so the 911 or other emergency response operator/dispatcher can tell the EMS team how to find you.   If you are in a developed campground, the name of the campground and your site identification should be sufficient to locate you.  However,  if you are in a dispersed camping area or out on a trail without clear landmarks to aid the EMS teams to find you, give the "911" operator the very best directions and distances you can.  You might be able to get geographic coordinates of your position from your cell phone or GPS and that would be helpful to emergency personnel trying to locate you.  If possible send someone down to an identifiable road or intersection to flag down the EMS vehicles and guide them to your location.  Be sure to give them a good description of your vehicle, tent, or other distinguishing characteristics of your camp site.  When boating always carry appropriate warning devices such as distress flags and flares.  Flares may be good for getting attention but are by nature, short lived.  Distress flags can be displayed throughout an emergency to alert other boaters to your need and guide  potential rescuers to you.

When you call "911" do your best to remain calm.  Think about what you need to tell them:  the nature of the injury or illness, when it happened or started, the age and gender of of the patient, and precise instructions for where you are and how to find you.  Also share any special circumstances, such as pre-existing conditions or physical disabilities your patient may have as that can have implications for responders.  You will probably we worried, frightened, excited, possibly somewhat flummoxed.  The hysterical reports 911 operators sometimes receive can be difficult to understand and can delay getting the response you need.   Try to be as calm and collected as possible so you can help them get you the help you need as quickly as possible.   Be prepared to listen to the instructions you are given by the 911 operator and carry them out exactly as given.  They are trained to provide proper directions for how you can best assist your patient until help arrives and help the EMS team get there as quickly as possible.  Be sure you understand the instructions you receive.  There is the story (fictional I hope!) about a hunter who calls 911 because his hunting buddy is was shot and he thought he was dead.  The 911 operator told him they should first make sure he was dead.  There was a short silence followed by a gun shot, then the hunter replied, Yes, I am sure he is dead!  I'm sure that wasn't what the 911 operator intended!  911 operators can often provide you with important, even life-saving, instructions.  Be prepared to do what you can until emergency services get there.

In some cases it may be beneficial to provide a signal to aid incoming responders.  In the day time that might consists of a brightly colored flag raised to where it can be easily seen from nearby access roads.  Or you might build a signal fire and load it up with green branches or leaves to create a column of smoke.  At night a large signal fire or flashing vehicle lights or flashlights can be helpful to responders who are trying to find you.  If you use a signal, be sure to let the "911" operator know what you are using so they can pass it along to the response team.  Just having someone stand where they can be seen from the road and jumping up and down and waving their arms can help rescuers find you.  Boaters will need to display distress flags or flares.  Aerial flares can be seen from a long distance but are fairly short lived.  Hand held flares can only be seen line of sight but usually burn for several minutes to help approaching responders to identify and locate you.  Displaying a proper distress flag throughout the duration of an emergency should be standard procedure.  Having someone keep an eye out for approaching responders and waving a bright colored flag (or shirt or jacket) to attract attention may be helpful.

Once you have called "911" stay with the patient at the location you gave the operator unless being there puts you and/or your patient in immediate danger.  If you must move, either notify the 911 operator, leave someone to tell EMS where you have gone, or keep your original location in sight.  It is usually best not to try to move an injured person before help arrives unless it is absolutely necessary.  Comply with all instructions you receive from the 911 operator to the best of your ability.

If you frequently visit places with little or no cell phone reception you might want to explore the options for boosting your cell signal.   Cell phone signal boosters are not cheap (several hundred dollars) but it still might be a good investment if you are often outside normal cell range.  If you or anyone in your regular group has been diagnosed with medical conditions that might make getting EMS help quickly a necessity, a cell phone booster may be well worth the cost.  Satellite phones are not dependent on cell towers and, since the transceivers for them are orbiting miles above the earth, they are usually not affected by mountains either.  Satellite phones are, however, still pretty darned expensive.  Phones start around $599 and can go up to thousands of dollars.  Plans start around $70 a month for 70 minutes of talk time.  You probably wouldn't want to use it for casual calls but it could be life saving to have those 70 minutes in a remote location.  Anyone with a high risk medical history or involved in high risk activities in remote locations should seriously consider getting a satellite phone for emergency use. If you have both high risk conditions and are involved in high risk activities you should probably consider a satellite phone as essential!

Another option for high risk situations is to carry a personal locator beacon.  A personal locator beacon, or PLB for short, is a personal electronic transmitting device that is designed to alert potential rescuers to a life-threatening situation in the air, on water or in remote areas.  They typically start a little north of  $200.  Higher priced units have more features.  All PLBs must be registered (free of charge) in the NOAA SARSAT (Search and Rescue Satellite Aided Tracking) database to become active.  Once triggered during an emergency, the unit sends an SOS that alerts rescue teams to your exact location and tells them it is an emergency, likely life-threatening, situation.  PLBs don't require a monthly subscription.  Since you only turn them on when you need to send an SOS the batteries last a long time, up to 5 years.  When batteries need to be replaced the unit must be returned to the manufacturer for replacement.  Batteries should also be replaced after a unit has been activated.  I have heard that most manufacturers will give you a new unit if you have to activate one for a life-saving rescue.  Boaters sometimes use an Emergency position indicating radio beacons (EPIRBs), but they are quite a bit bigger and more expensive than PLBs and are usually only found on larger boats used in off-shore cruises.

Of course another option is for you -- or someone in your group -- to get certified in Emergency Medical procedures.   Even if EMS can reach you fairly quickly, having proper training can be useful until they get there.  Being able to provide appropriate immediate assistance can significantly reduce suffering and minimize complications. Sometimes it is even life saving!  If EMS personnel are far distant or delayed it is even more important for you to have qualified help with you.  Throughout my off road career I have endeavored to maintain first aid and CPR certification and more recently have obtained certification as an Emergency Medical Responder (EMR).  An EMR is the first level of EMS and historically was called first responder.  If you are involved in any kind of outdoor activities where serious injuries may occur you should know how to recognize and treat life threatening bleeding and to be able to identify and splint broken bones.  Those skills could well be life saving!  EMR training does not require the hundred of hours you need to become an EMT or paramedic, but it does give you the skills you need to provide appropriate treatment until a higher level of medical support arrives and that will provide your patients a lot of comfort and may even be life saving.  I have never personally provided life saving treatment to a fellow off roader but I have splinted broken bones and prepared patients for transport and am thankful I have the training to recognize and respond to life threatening situations if necessary.

Get the help you need help when you need it!