Boondocking in a Boat

Boondocking in a boat.  Ever heard of it?  Probably not.  You generally don't take boats into the same kind of "off road"environments where campers and RVers venture out into.  However, in many ways, dropping anchor anywhere except in a formal marina could be considered to be a similar activity.

Boaters could go boondocking on shore too.  They might use their boat to reach an island or other remote location to set up camp where the experience would be identical to boondocking in a tent.

Any sailor who has ever participated in an ocean voyage has essentially spent some time boondocking on the open sea.  Anytime you are away from accessible utilities like power, water, and sewer services, you are for all practical purposes, boondocking.

Many of the considerations, preparations, and conservation needs of boondocking in an RV will also apply to boondocking on a boat.  You pretty much have the same needs for self sufficiency -- water, food, sanitation, power, and protection from the elements.  If you venture out on ocean voyages you could very quickly find yourself much further from any source of supplies or other assistance than you would ever experience on land.

Bon Voyage!

Boondocking In A Tent

Boondocking in a tent is kind of redundant.   Tent campers usually don't camp where there are hookups like there are for RVs.  For the most part tent camping is about the same no matter where you set up camp.  However, there can be a little difference between tent camping in developed campgrounds and venturing further into the wild.

Tent camping in a developed campground usually means you will have a nice, level, often grassy spot to set up your tent, a fire pit, and a picnic table.  Some more luxurious campgrounds may have individual canopies for shade and to get you out of the rain.  Developed campgrounds usually have bathrooms with flush toilet and even showers.  Many also have an outdoor sink where you can do your dishes.  Almost all developed campgrounds have water faucets located within a short walk of each campsite.  Fancier resort style facilities may have lots of amenities like swimming pools, gyms, sports courts, laundries, and even restaurants.

Boondocking in a tent occurs when you set up in a primitive campground or graduate to dispersed camping where you might be camping on pristine ground.  You may have to clear the ground of rocks and sticks to make a good place to set up your tent.  When boondocking in a tent you will most likely have to build your own fire ring unless you use an existing site or you use only a gas stove or portable BBQ.  You will have to provide for your own sanitation needs.  That might mean using a port-a-potty or a 5-gallon bucket or digging your own latrine.  If you dig a latrine, make sure you are at least 100 feet away from any water source (lake, pond, stream, spring, or well).  You will probably have to bring enough water with you to meet all your needs (drinking, cooking, cleaning) for your entire stay.  Water from lakes and streams, if available, may be of questionable quality.  When in doubt use proper water purification techniques before drinking or cooking with water of unknown purity. Boiling water will kill any harmful bacteria but it won't remove toxic chemicals.  Water near old mining activity is sometimes contaminated by cyanide, which is often fatal when ingested.

In even a primitive campground you may find an existing fire pit and a fairly level prepared site for your tent.  However, if you are dispersed camping you will have to prepare your own tent site and may have to build your own fire pit.  It is always a good idea to use dispersed camping sites previously used by someone else when possible.  Not only will it be less work for you, it is less damaging to the environment than intruding onto another pristine area.

Boondocking in a tent can be a lot of fun.  It often gets you away from light and noise pollution and gives you an opportunity to have a more pioneer like experience.

Enjoy the boonies!

Boondocking In An RV

Boondocking is usually used to describe camping "off grid".  While technically you are "off grid" when stopping in a rest area or Walmart or Cracker Barrel parking lot, or any non-hookups camp site (like a primitive  Forest Service campground), the term normally conjures up visions of remote, unimproved campsites.  Boondocking requires greater care in conserving resources than is needed when camping in developed campgrounds that offer at least some services or amenities.  Many basic Forest Service campgrounds at least have toilets and community water faucets and often have a dump station nearby.  When you go completely "off grid" in dispersed camping areas offered by the Forest Service and the BLM you are totally dependent on the self contained features of your RV and on the resources you have brought with you.  That is truly boondocking!  If you fill up your holding tanks or run out of water you're going to have to make a trip to a facility where you can dump your tanks and purchase water.

I have heard that  in New Zealand they use the term "freedom camping" and I find that to be an excellent descriptive name for the activity.

If you decide to go boondocking, one of the first things you need to do is choose a place to go.  There are many good open camping places on BLM and US Forest Service land in Western United States, even some along prime ocean beaches! For your first outing or so I suggest you choose a place that is either close to home or close to developed facilities in case your boondocking experience goes bad.  It might also be a good idea to tag along with an associate who is familiar with local boondocking opportunities so they can help your locate a good spot and get the most out of your trip.  You want a place that is accessible to your vehicle and offers the kinds of activities or experiences you are seeking.

Once you get there the major requirement for successful boondocking is conservation of resources.  You will need to conserve,water, battery power, and fuel and minimize filling of holding tanks.  You may also need to conserve provisions since you'll probably be some distance from anyplace you can buy additional supplies.

There are many ways to conserve water, which also helps minimize filling of holding tanks.  Some common examples are reducing waste by saving the water you run while waiting for the shower to warm up and use it for other purposes, such as pre-rinsing dishes or pre-washing extra dirty hands.  You might also use it for washing camping equipment as needed in camp.  Another trick is to use paper towels or old newspapers to wipe dirty dishes instead of rinsing them.  At home you probably leave the water running while you're scrubbing your hands, washing your body in the shower, and brushing your teeth.  To save water, turn the water off except when you are actively using it.  Rinse off, then turn off the shower while you're soaping or shampooing, then turn it back on to rinse off the suds.  You'd be surprised how much water you'll save by simply turning it off when you're not actively using it.  If there are restrooms available anywhere near your primitive campsite, take advantage of them whenever you can to reduce filling of your black water tank.  Yes, I know some of the pit toilets in remote areas are really nasty, but tolerating a few minutes there can avoid long term exposure to really foul odors you will encounter in your RV if your black water tank overflows.  If you are germophobic, carry some hand sanitizer to clean the toilet seat as well as your hands.  Conserving water will automatically reduce filling of  holding tanks.  To make a little extra room in your gray water tank, drain off a bucket or two to put our your campfire each night.

Battery power will be another critical resource, especially in cold weather when you;'ll need it for your furnace.  Some older furnaces don't have fans, but most modern ones rely on 12 volt power for both the computerized control boards ad well as the 12 volt fan to circulate the hot air.  Match your schedule to the rising and setting of the sun to reduce your dependence on artificial light and use lanterns or flashlights after dark whenever possible to minimize battery drain.  Replacing general power hungry incandescent bulbs with LEDs in as many fixtures as possible will reduce power consumption.  But be aware that LEDs may not be suitable for all locations.  You may need brighter light for reading and other work areas, but they are ideal for RV porch lights and general interior illumination.  Bright, good quality LEDs still tend to be somewhat expensive, about $10 per bulb, but inexpensive alternatives are showing up.  I recently purchased 20 LEDs made in China for about $20.  Turns out they are not bright enough to replace ALL the bulbs in my RV, but even replacing half of them will make a difference in battery drain.  I've seen a single 12-volt incandescent bulb completely drain an RV house battery in just an afternoon when it was inadvertently left on in a bathroom.  Using the LEDs for general lighting when you don't need concentrated light on a work area will save quite a bit of battery power.  Incandescent bulbs are essentially a dead short using a high resistance wire as a filament between the hot and ground sides.  The reason it glows is that it gets very hot.  You will use your furnace more on cool nights and unless it is a convection type furnace without a fan, the fan can run the batteries down.  It is ironic that when the batteries get low the fan tends to keep running after the burner has shut off, blowing cold air.

Conservation of fuel is another consideration.  Topping the list is propane, used for heating and cooking.  Minimize your needs by designing menus that require little cooking or cook on your campfire as much as you can.  Reduce heat loss to keep furnace consumption as low as possible by eliminating drafts in your RV, keeping doors and windows closed as much as you can, and using insulating bubble foil on all the windows.  Your furnace may blow cold air if you run out of propane or if your batteries get low.  Be sure to check both propane and battery gauges so you can identify the problem and take appropriate action.  Either motor fuel or propane may be used to power your on board generator, depending on the configuration.  Those that use motor fuel usually tap into to fuel tank higher than the engine fuel pump port to prevent you from using up ALL your gas running the generator.  You may be able to increase your propane supply by using an "Extend-a-stay" kit that allows you to attach an external tank to your motorhome.   Note:  Extend-a-stay kits will provide vaporize propane for appliances but NOT liquid propane for a propane powered generator. Since most travel trailers already have removable tanks, they only need bring along extra tanks to swap out.  Many travel trailers and some diesel powered motorhomes use propane powered generators.  In any case you'll want to minimize generator usage.  That doesn't mean avoiding it altogether because you will need it to run the A/C in hot weather and to recharge batteries in any weather.  But don't leave the generator running when it isn't needed.  And make sure to keep it properly tuned and adjusted.  A clogged air filter or worn spark plugs can significantly affect both performance and fuel economy.  And, of course, make sure you have enough fuel in or for your vehicle to get back to civilization.  Top off  your tanks as close to your destination as is practical.  If there is any chance you won't have enough fuel to get back, bring along an extra 5 gallon can or two of fuel.  If you are riding OHVs you may be able to commandeer fuel you brought for them to get you safely home.  On one occasion I even dumped a few gallons of pre-mix into the gas tank of my pickup truck when it ran out of gas before we reached a gas station on the way  home from the Mojave Desert one trip.

An often misunderstood requirement for successful boondocking is choosing a good location.    Certainly you CAN just drive out into the forest or desert but choosing an appropriate location will make your trip more comfortable and more fun.  Location can affect many aspects of camping.  For example, a shaded campsite can reduce A/C needs in hot weather and a sheltered location can reduce heating costs in cold weather.  Even more important is whether the campsite meets your camping and other recreational needs.  We developed a list of several good staging areas for our dirt bike outings in the Mojave Desert.  Each one was conveniently located to give access to a number of possible trails while providing sufficient space for our Desert Rat group, an unofficial organization of family oriented, recreational riders.  You will also want to consider environmental factors such as proximity to land fills or feed lots that could contribute unpleasant odors or being downwind of agricultural fields, gravel pits, or construction sites that may yield blowing dust.  If anyone in your party has specific allergies you may want to avoid locations where plants or chemicals that might trigger their symptoms are plentiful.  Access to the location is sometimes assumed or overlooked -- until you find yourself stuck or trapped and it is too late.  So seek locations that are easy to get in and out of.   You may encounter height, length,and weight restrictions on some roads or in some campgrounds so check things out before you find yourself someplace you can't get out of.  While there is a certain appeal to boondocking in pristine areas, using campsites that have been previously used often yields several advantages.  One is that they most likely have good access if they are often used.  You may also be able to easily find the most level spot by observing where previous visitors have parked.  Another benefit is that they often have existing fire pits, which reduces your level of effort in building a safe campfire and minimizes environmental impact on pristine natural resources.

While I've recently seen several claims in RV magazines that the majority of RVers (somwhere around 3/4 as a matter of fact) usually stay in developed, often full hookup campgrounds,  I personally find boondocking to be a more authentic form of camping.  Camping on a paved parking area with water, electricity, and sewer connections is convenient but, at least to me, it somehow lacks the adventure of camping in the open desert or remote forest.  Of course,  our affinity for dirt biking also pushes us toward dispersed camping areas since there are very few full hookup campgrounds with direct access to OHV trails.


Boondock, not boondoggle!

RV Porch Lights

Most RVs come from the factory with at least one outside light near the entrance.  They are usually fixtures with a single incandescent bulb, but LEDs are becoming more popular.  Some may have integrated switches so you can turn them on as needed from outside the vehicle, like for finding the right key and the key hole in the dark and finding the step so you don't fall flat on your face!  If your RV doesn't have a convenient porch light, one can be added fairly easily.  You will want to mount it on the side of the door where the handle is.  You can usually mount the light at the same level as the bottom shelf of an inside cabinet.  This allows you to tap into power already supplied to the under cabinet lights and to hide the new wire you run to the outside for the porch light.  The bottom shelves of most RV cabinets are hollow. You gain access to the hollow space by prying up the top of the shelf inside the cabinet.  Take care not to damage the paneling, which is fairly thin and easily crunched.  Once you have the panel off you can see where to hook up the wiring for your new light.  You can drill a hole through the back of the hollow space inside the shelf all the way through the outside skin to run your wire.  Most porch lights are designed for surface installation.  You will want to run a strip of butyl tape ("dum dum" tape) around the outside edge of the fixture before you screw it to the outside wall.  A bead of Dap or silicone caulk where it contacts the wall will provide further protection once it is fully installed.  Also squirt some sealer into the hole around the wire.  This both prevents air and water intrusion and helps keep the wire from chafing on the edges of the hole.

RV porch lights are ideal candidates for conversion to LEDs.  You don't need a lot of focused light like you would on a work area for reading and having LEDS bulbs significantly reduces the battery drain if the light is left on for a long time.  A guest once left the light on in our RV bathroom (standard incandescent bulb) and the coach battery was dead in just a few hours.  I've used LED step lights for several years now, leaving them on day and night for days at a time without running down the batteries.  Converting most lights to LEDs is as simple as changing the bulb just get the right size to replace the current incandescent bulb.  LED equivalent sized bulbs may come in a variety of "colors" and intensity.  Some may have a soft, yellowish tint, others may be bright white.  Be sure to get ones that will work the way you want them to for each application.

The porch lights on some RVs are controlled by a switch inside the RV.  This makes it convenient to turn off the lights at bedtime, especially in bad weather, but it leaves you in the dark when you approach the unit at night unless you leave the light on while you're away.  A really convenient and fairly inexpensive (under $20) solution to this problem is to install a battery operated, motion sensor LED security light near the door.  You can also get solar powered versions, but be aware that installing them in the shade of an awning (which may shade the solar panel even when the awning is rolled up) may reduce the effectiveness of the solar capability.  LEDs draw little power so you shouldn't have to change the batteries in a battery powered unit very often.  There are hard wired 12-volt versions, but they require running power from somewhere inside the vehicle whereas the battery powered lights can be easily mounted anywhere and are self contained so you don't have to drill any extra holes in the skin of the RV.  They don't have to be very bright or provide the kind of broad coverage you might want for other lights that you would use to illuminate the campsite or even the patio area for night time activities  They just need to give you enough light to find the right key and the key hole and to make it so you can see the step.  Once you have the door open you can always turn on the regular porch light if you need things brighter.  A motion sensor light is a very friendly "welcome home" when you approach your rig after dark and can provide a level of security by illuminating the area when someone else approaches.  Would-be burglars are often deterred by lighting that might reveal their activities and identity and send them seeking a more secluded target.  I found a suitable light on sale at Harbor Freight.  The bracket installed easily with 2 screws (provided) and the fixture can be quickly removed from the bracket to avoid losing it while traveling or having branches knock it off in close quarters.  Having that light turn on to greet us as we approach the door a night feels very friendly and is very convenient.  If you want to leave your standard porch light on while you're away, consider changing the incandescent bulb to an LED replacement which will draw considerably less current from your batteries.  An easy, convenient, and inexpensive way to add outside LED lighting is via "tap lights".  These fixtures are normally designed for use in closets and cabinets so you'll probably want to mount them so you can remove them in bad weather or while you're on the road.  I've even found some at my local Dollar Tree, making them VERY inexpensive.  They run on 3 AAA batteries, which last a long time with the LEDs.  If you're not worried about weather you can stick them to the side of your RV near your door with double-sticky tape that is usually included.  Substitute Velcro for the double-sticky tape if you want to make them removable.

You may find it useful to install outside lighting at other locations besides the entrance, and only a few RVs have secondary lighting as original equipment.   You can use the above procedure to install outside lights just about anywhere you find it useful.  Some typical places are on the front of trailers to assist in connecting up to the tow vehicle in the dark, near water fill and other utility locations, and near an outside shower.  Extra lights under the awning can make outdoor might time activities more practical.  12- volt lights for general camp ground illumination can usually be tapped into existing wiring for under cabinet lights as described in the first paragraph above making installation fairly simple.  Most RVs have at least one 120 volt outlet somewhere on the outside of the rig so it is convenient to use under the awning.   You can usually run a light weight extension cord from this outlet to a string of patio lights attached to the awning or to other area lights, assuming you have 120 volt power from hookups, generator, or inverter.  I prefer to use 12 volt lighting rather than run 120 volt lighting from an inverter.  Incandescent bulbs, being essentially a dead short, draw a lot of current and could suck down batteries pretty quickly.  120 volt LED bulbs would help mitigate this problem.

Lighting on the front of a trailer can illuminate the hitch and make hooking up or disconnecting at night a whole lot easier and safer.  Once again you can often connect to existing wiring inside the bottom shelf of a front cabinet.  I like to use lights with a built in switch so I can turn them on and off as needed without entering the trailer.

A few RVs have extra outside lighting but this is usually something that is left to the owner to install since individual needs can vary dramatically.   I added a couple of high intensity flood lights salvaged from an ambulance to my enclosed motorcycle trailer, one at the rear over the ramp door and one on the side under the awning so I have good illumination for after dark dirt bike repairs.  Such lights would not be necessary or appropriate for all users.  For convenience I hooked them up using residential style 3-way switches, including one waterproof exterior switch.  The biggest downside I've found with these lights is replacing the bubs.  They are very specialized, hard to find, and rather expensive but, fortunately, are very well made and designed for years of high stress use.  If you are inclined to cook on the outside BBQ you might find it useful to install an extra exterior light over the area where you will be cooking.  If you like to play games on the "patio" in the evenings you might benefit from various kinds of awning lights.  If you have an outside shower you might want a light there in case you need to rinse off after dark.  Extra porch lights along the side of your RV can provide additional campground illumination.  I have a 500-watt Halogen flood light I can mount on my RV ladder when I need to light up a lot of campground, but big lights like that often intrude on surrounding camp sites so be careful about using them.  My 40' Holiday Rambler had a pair of bright 120 volt lights on the curb side that did a good job of illuminating our campsite.  I added the sockets and bulbs from a pair of 12-volt, 55 watt halogen driving lights in the same housings so I didn't have to run the generator just to light up my campsite.  The 120 lights could still be used when the generator was running or I was connected to shore power.

Having lights that illuminate the steps on your RV can be really helpful at night.  Some fancy rigs with automatic electric steps have automatic lights.  If your rig doesn't have lights you can add them pretty easily.  I did mine using an amber LED clearance light.  I have run it continuously throughout a 3-day weekend 24 hours a day, without running down the battery.  You will need to find a source to connect the 12 volt positive line to and a good metal ground.  You can usually ground it someplace on the step.  Put the switch in a convenient place near the door.  If you want to put it outside so you can turn it on when come home to your RV late at night be sure to use a waterproof switch.   I like to use an illuminated switch that indicates when the light is on.

Installing wall mounted lights to illuminate outside cabinets is pretty much counter productive.  The light around the open door will just make it seem darker and harder to see inside the cabinet.  If you need to see inside cabinets at night and your cabinets are not lighted, it is really easy to install LED "tap" lights.  These are small, battery powered lights that attach with double sticky tape and are turned on and off by tapping the lens.  Or just use a flashlight.  Some of the higher end rigs have automatic lights in the outside cabinets like the ones in the closets.  Automatic lights can be added, but it may take some ingenuity to find a way to run the wiring and the switches can be temperamental.  Doors that are hinged on top sometimes use mercury switches, which can be difficult to find these days due to the environmental concerns about mercury poisoning.  Plunger type switches can be used on just about any door, but getting them properly adjusted can be tricky  If just one isn't adjusted right, the draw from an incandescent bulb can drain house batteries in surprisingly short time -- and you probably don't have any way to see if the light is on inside a cabinet.  Using LED replacement bulbs is one way to minimize current draw but LED replacements are still fairly expensive:  around $10 per bulb for good quality.  You can find less expensive LED bulbs on the Internet but reports and personal experience have shown they don't live up to expectations.  Users have reported early and frequent failures (one even said NONE of the bulbs in his shipment worked!) and insufficiently bright lighting.  All the ones I've tried worked, but I found that incandescent bulbs provided much brighter illumination.  I even bought a few of the more expensive LEDs and found that the blue-white light wasn't very appealing and they still failed to match regular bulbs for overall illumination where needed for work or reading .  However, the power consumption and the heat generation of LEDs are indeed far less than incandescent bulbs.  Using a combination may be the best solution:  LEDs where nominal illumination is adequate to save power and incandescents in work areas where you need good lighting to save your eyes.  A really easy solution to cabinet lighting, both indoors and outdoors, is an LED "tap light".  They typically run on 3 AAA batteries and attach easily with double-sticky tape.  Simply tap the lens to turn them on or off.

Light 'em up!

Winterhoming

OK, what the heck IS "winterhoming"?  Well,  simply put, it is motorhoming in the winter.

Most camping is done in the summer time, or at least spring or fall, but there are sometimes good reasons to use your RV in the winter too.  An RV makes an excellent chalet or base camp for skiing, snowboarding, ice fishing, and other snow based activities -- if is is properly equipped.  Most RVs made and used in the U.S. are not designed for winter use and most owners who live in cold country have to winterize their rigs and retire them until warm weather returns.  However, it is possible to upgrade many RVs for winter use.  BTW, some Canadian made RVs are more likely to come from the factory equipped for winter weather.

While the comfort of the occupants is, of course, the major function of an RV in winter, the biggest problem is usually protecting the plumbing against freezing.  Sometimes an RV furnace may not be adequate to maintain a comfortable temperature inside.  If that is the case you either need to reduce heat loss or increase BTUs.  It usually isn't very practical to increase the insulation factor in an RV, but a lot of heat may be lost through drafts and through insufficiently protected windows.  I once had a Class B van conversion that, I found, had NO insulation at all and it was fairly easy to remove wall and ceiling panels and cut styrofoam panels to fit each space, significantly improving insulation.  But it is usually too intrusive and too expensive to increase the insulation in standard RVs. Sometimes you can gain access to interior paneling on external walls to add foam or bats of insulation, but usually it would be way to destructive, expensive, and counterproductive.  What you can improve fairly easily and cheaply is the insulation value for the windows.  First of all, make sure you take advantage of whatever window coverings you have -- close the curtains, drapes, or shades.  You can add reflective foam insulation similar to windshield sun screens between the window coverings and the windows.  You may want to try adding plastic "storm windows" over the windows.  You can get kits to do this from your local hardware store or home center.  They consist of a plastic film that is stretched over the windows and then tightened using a heat gun or hair dryer.   Also install a cover or foam pillow to block the loss of heat through the roof vents.  Even when they are closed, the thin cover allows a lot of heat to escape.  Search for and seal off any drafts where cold air enters through the firewall of a motorhome or around plumbing and power cords or around doors and windows of any RV.  If after doing all of this your furnace still doesn't keep things warm enough, you may need auxiliary heat.  Options include electric heaters if you stay in campgrounds with electric service, a catalytic heater, adding another furnace, or upgrading the existing furnace to one with a higher BTU output.  Upgrading or adding a furnace can be an expensive proposition and is likely to require significant modifications for installation of a larger unit.  Catalytic heaters don't use any battery power since they have no fans and portable versions attach to 1-lb propane cylinders to they don't require any gas line attachments.  Keep in mind even heaters rated for indoor use will consume oxygen even if they don't release any toxic fumes, so proper ventilation is critical.   Seems counterintuitive to open windows when you are trying to heat a space, but you will suffocate if you don't!   Check inside cabinets for openings around plumbing where cold air might get in.  These can usually be sealed easily by stuffing foam into the gaps or by using spray foam insulation available at any home center or hardware store.  Take care not to over do it with the spray foam.  That stuff expands a lot and is difficult to remove if it gets on surfaces where you don't want it.  Make sure the weatherstripping on your doors is in good shape and that the caulking around windows hasn't shrunk or have any gaps.

Electric heaters are an easy way to get extra interior heat -- if you have shore power or when you can run your generator.  A popular option among many RVers is an "electric fireplace" that not only provides heat but adds a kind of cabin-like ambiance.  I even have a small, 300 watt heater that runs on 12 volt DC I can use in my motorhome in a pinch, but I'm sure it would drain the batteries pretty quickly.  I found a neat little 120 volt heater that plugs directly into a wall outlet so it takes up little room.  The digital temperature control makes it easy to maintain a comfortable setting in a small space.  Auto parts stores sometimes offer 12-volt powered heater/defroster units that plug into the 12-volt receptacle (i.e., cigarette lighter) and can help clear fog or frost off the windshield.  These units will provide a small amount of auxiliary heat but would not be very effective in as room heaters.  If you have 120 volt power available you can also protect your holding tanks with specially designed heating pads and protect plumbing in exterior cabinets with a 100 watt incandescent bulb (if you can still find one!  They are being phased out due to energy concerns).  There are 12-volt holding tank heaters too, but, again, I would be concerned about them draining the battery.  Any electric heater is essentially a dead short.  The heating elements are high-resistance wire.

Protecting exposed plumbing from freezing can be an onerous task.  Keeping the inside of your RV at 40° or better will normally protect all the inside plumbing, but exposed holding tanks, valves, and pipes are still vulnerable.  You will need electric heating pads and or heat tape to protect these components if you are camping in sub-freezing weather.  Heating pads for holding tanks are available in both 12 volt and 120 volt versions and some include dual power sources.  With dual power you can use your 12-volt system while traveling and power is available from the vehicle alternator.  120-volt operation requires shore or generator power.  You might run your generator while traveling to operate 120-volt heating pads.  It wouldn't consume any more energy than running your A/C on hot days.  If you have 12-volt heating pads you will want to carefully monitor your battery status.  They could easily run batteries down if they kick in at night when you turn off the generator.  One way to protect holding tanks for occasional winter use is to add enough antifreeze (marine/RV grade for potable water systems) to at least protect the dump valves and lower the freeze point within the tank contents.  If you rely on warm blankets or sleeping bags instead of your furnace to keep you warm at night, dump a cup or two of antifreeze into each drain to prevent the P-traps from freezing.  You don't need antifreeze in the P-traps if your furnace keeps the interior above freezing.  If your RV has enclosed holding tanks and the dump valves are in a cabinet instead of hanging exposed beneath the vehicle you may be able to keep the valves from freezing by placing a 100-watt incandescent light bulb in he compartment.  Finding a 100-watt bulb these days might be difficult as they've been phased out for environmental reasons.  Using a 60-watt bulb might be sufficient, but using two 60-watt bulbs would be more than equivalent to a 100-watt bulb.  Or you might use special reptile heat lamp available at pet stores.  In any case, if the compartment isn't insulated, insulate it.  Outside compartments often have bare aluminum doors that allow a great deal of heat to escape.  Glue some styrofoam panels inside or even use reflective foam insulation like Reflectix.  Check for drafts around electrical and plumbing connections or around the door.  Random openings can be filled with spray foam insulation or stuff with fiberglass batting.  Poorly fitting doors may benefit from the addition of weatherstripping.  If you are connected to city water in freezing temperatures you will need a heated hose and will need to protect the faucet.  Even "frost proof" faucets will freeze if a hose is left connected.  It prevents them from letting the water drain out before it freezes.

RV skirts that surround the bottom of your RV can help keep the floors warmer and conserve heat.   They usually need to be custom made.  Vinyl skirts, made in several sections, can be carried on trips and installed when needed, but they can be pretty expensive.  Some people make skirts of plywood or styrofoam panels when the unit is parked in a fixed location for a while. Skirts are usually not practical for short stays or frequent relocation.

Resource conservation will be more difficult when it is cold.   You ARE going to use more propane and use it quicker than in warmer months.  You might reduce how much you use for heating by dressing warmer so you can be comfortable at a lower temperature.  Sweaters and thermal underwear can increase you comfort level in a cooler environment without being too cumbersome.  Warmer quilts and blankets or a winter sleeping bag can help keep you cozy in bed.  But your furnace isn't the only appliance that will use more propane in colder times.  Your hot water heater will need to work harder to maintain normal temperatures when it is cold outside and you are likely to use more gas for cooking simply because you will want more warm foods and drinks in cold weather.  The one appliance that might actually use less propane in cold weather is the refrigerator, but probably not significantly less since you are probably keeping the interior around a comfortable 72°.  Always make sure your propane tank is full when you leave on a trip.  For extended cold weather outings you may want to invest in an "Extend-a-stay" system that allows you to connect to an external propane tank to supplement your on board supply.  For trailers with removable propane tanks you can just bring a long a couple of extra tanks.

Winterhoming is cool!

Involuntary Downsizing

We recently experienced an accident that resulted in our 1986 Holiday Rambler being declared a total loss by the insurance company.  I spent a couple of months searching  the Internet for a replacement and couldn't find a single similar unit for sale anywhere in the U.S.  I found two in Australia, both had been converted to Australian Design Rules and completely renovated, with prices about 4 times what I paid for my unit several years ago.  While that speaks highly of the quality of the original unit, it doesn't lend itself to replacing a wrecked motorhome in Utah.  Once we knew it was going to be totaled we began looking for an alternative.  We quickly realized that the 1986 HR we'd had for about 10 years was an incredible find when we bought it and that we weren't going to be able to replace it with anything even close.  Available units of a similar size and age but a different brand had originally sold for about 1/4 the cost of the Holiday Rambler and lacked its features and quality.  So we reevaluated our needs and adjusted our expectations.

We looked at literally hundreds of online listings, inspected at least a dozen local units for sale by owner, and visited about a half dozen dealers looking for something that would meet our needs -- and satisfy at least some our our wants -- and staying within a reasonable budget.  I found that lacking an exact replacement, getting anything close in terms of size, features, and quality, would cost 2 -10 times the insurance payout!  A careful evaluation of our current needs showed we really didn't need such a big unit and that we'd be able to go more places and do more things in a smaller one.

We ended up downsizing from a 40' diesel powered luxury Holiday Rambler motorhome to a mid-sized 27' gasoline powered Class A.  It is a 1984 Southwind Eagle and, according to the dealer, was purchased from a legendary "little old lady" (which was confirmed by the current registration certificate found in the vehicle).   Given the condition of the unit, the story is believable.  It rolled over 42,000 miles on it as I drove it off the lot.  The appliances (stove, refrigerator) are like new.  The water heater was replaced just a few years ago and is also like new.  It has all brand new carpet.  Obviously it lacks the spaciousness and many of the luxury features our Holiday Rambler had, but it will be a very fun rig to use.  My initial intention was to purchase from a private party to get the best price but this little Eagle was advertised by a small local dealer, and at a surprisingly good price -- about 1/3 the average retail shown in the Nada Guide.  Moreover the dealer was exceptionally good to work with.  It is a small, family run lot in American Fork, Utah:  RVs of America.  It has been my experience that large dealers with a large sales force have a lot of overhead and there is usually lot of competition between the salesmen, often resulting in higher pressure selling than I like.  We found the folks at RVs of America (it is owned and operated by two brothers)  to be genuinely interested in  helping us find the right motorhome for our needs rather than selling us what they wanted to move.  By selecting a unit that was basically kind of under priced (buying in the November-December time frame might have had something to do with it) we had budget left over to add some of the premium accessories we'd come to enjoy in the big motorhome.

By carefully researching the available options we were able to find a unit that had at least some of the luxury features we'd become accustomed to in our Holiday Rambler, specifically, hydraulic levelers and an electric step.   I doubt if we'll miss the washer and dryer in the big Holiday Rambler which was so seldom used that the rollers in the dryer were flattened from sitting so long when I did want to use it.  One of the conscious tradeoffs we made was whether to buy a newer unit with fewer amenities or an older one that was better equipped.  Given our current station in life (semi-retired) we opted for more amenities.  When we were younger I probably would have favored newer units with higher potential resale or trade in value, but at this point I'm not planning to make many more trades -- and I've come to like my creature comforts.

Downsizing of this magnitude necessitates a reappraisal of what supplies and other items are really necessary.  With cavernous basement storage on the Holiday Rambler, we had room for lots of niceties that don't fit in the smaller motorhome.  I've even had to sort through and re-think my on board tool kit and buy a smaller tool box that would fit one of the compartments.  Fitting what you really need into less than 2/3 the space means reducing things by at least 1/3.  That means starting with the idea of setting aside one out of three kitchen items, one out of three extra items of clothing, one out of three cleaning supplies, and at the very least, one out of three gadgets.   The reduced basement storage on top of the significant reduction in overall length adds up to a lot more than a 1/3 reduction in cargo capacity.  Here is where selecting and stocking items with multiple uses will REALLY come in handy.  For example, bringing along a 3-in-1 shampoo/conditioner/body wash instead of separate solutions will save space in the limited bathroom medicine cabinet.  While the 3-in-1 may not yield quite the same results as more expensive individual products, it is adequate for occasional use for a few days in camp.  It also saves water since you only have to rinse your hair once.  In removing all our stuff from the "old" motorhome, I found that I had on board cleaning supplies that I only use during winterization or spring cleaning.  It was convenient to have them on board when there was plenty of room.  However, those now become candidates to be left on the shelf in the garage since they aren't normally needed in camp.  Closets revealed even more stuff that didn't really need to be there.  Over the years we had accumulated clothing for multiple seasons, often carrying around parkas and a whole box of winter gloves when it was 90°+ outside.  Things like that can be easily added as needed instead of occupying a permanent spot in limited real estate.  Gadgets are often a source of a lot of fun for RVers and other campers, but when space is at a premium, it is worthwhile to only bring along what you actually use.  I am certain there were a lot of nice gadgets I had squirreled away in the big motorhome that I seldom used that will not migrate to the "new" smaller unit.  The late RV great Gaylord Maxwell described his downsizing from a 40' monster Class A to more modest 30' Class C.  His rule for the big motorhome was "If you think you might need it, bring it along."  The smaller rig requires a different mind set.  The new rule is "If you're not sure you're going to use, leave it home."  Those two attitudes pretty much sum up our situation as we migrate from a 40' to a 27'.  However, we keep finding things we "need" and have to make room for.  It is a never ending battle.

There were a lot of difficult decisions to be made as we tried to find space for all the "stuff" we'd gotten used to packing around.  It is amazing how creative you can become when you have to.  The more than ample cabinets in the big Holiday Rambler allowed us many options for dinnerware.  Realizing we no longer had to regularly accommodate a family of 8 let us significantly reduce the number of table settings and we decided we really didn't need Melmac, speckleware, AND stainless steel plates, but we still managed to find a place under couch to squirrel away some cafeteria trays in case we join a potluck dinner somewhere.  Overall it was amazing to discover just how much "stuff" we'd packed away in our old, bigger rig.   Needless to say, it was a bit of a challenge.

Unfortunately, we took delivery just after winter arrived with sub-freezing temperatures and had to have the dealer winterize the rig even before we brought it home so we haven't been able to take it out yet.  It is tucked away in our covered RV storage where we slowly take care of a few enhancements we wanted to make and go through all the stuff we took out of the "beast" and figure out what will fit and where in the smaller rig.

We are expecting our "new" and smaller rig will be less expensive to drive and will definitely be more maneuverable and will fit in Forest Service campgrounds that were off limits to the big, luxury motorhome.  Hopefully that means more chances to go camping and more choices of where we can go.

August update:   we took the Eagle on a 2400 mile trip this summer and pretty much loved it.  There were few if any of the features of the bigger motorhome that we really missed and the 27 footer was a lot easier and less stressful to drive.  But we're still looking for places to put more "critical" things in the smaller unit.

2017 update.  Came across a deal that was too good to pass up:   a 1999 Holiday Rambler Vacationer with (as it said on the windshield) "low miles and huge slide".  Our previous experience with Holiday Rambler made us predisposed to the brand.  The low miles and the slideout, together with nice features like a queen island bed and an incredible trade-in allowance for our Southwind made this too good an opportunity to pass up.  It is a 36 footer so we got back a lot of the size and luxury features we had on our previous Holiday Rambler.  It is good to keep your eyes open where ever  you go.  We weren't really in the market for another motorhome.  In fact, I had gone to this particular lot to look at a used Jeep for my wife.  The Holiday Rambler caught my eye and the deal they offered me REALLY caught my attention.  We ended  up living quite comfortably in the Vacationer for about 6 months while we were looking for a new home in Oregon after selling our house in Utah.

When life hands you lemons, make lemonade!

Camping and Boating Trade Offs

There are many trade offs to take into account when considering a camping lifestyle.   One of the first decisions is whether you like any kind of camping.  Next is whether you want to tent camp or camp in some kind of RV.  While cost is often a major factor in deciding between tent camping and buying an RV, it certainly isn't the only factor.  Tent camping can be done in a wide variety of locations.  It also gives a more primitive, adventurous spirit to outings which can be very satisfying, even if not as comfortable as an RV.  RV camping provides better protection from the elements along with significant creature comforts that can rival residential environments.  RVs make a really good base camp for a lot of other activites such as riding OHVs, hiking, fishing, hunting, rock hounding and more.

If you choose tent camping, one of your biggest choices will be what kind of tent to buy.  If you have a large family you will need a large tent.  If, on the other hand you plan to do a lot of backpacking, you'll need a very light weight, compact tent.  I've used 10'x14' cabin tents for family camping and a tiny little back packing tent that is really little more than a sleeping bag cover for solo back packing.  Each one is equally enjoyable in its proper environment.

If you decide you'd like the additional creature comforts and security of camping in RV, you'll need to do some research to figure out what kind of RV will work best for you.  There are many options, ranging from relatively inexpensive tent trailers with minimal facilities to huge luxury RVs with amenities that rival high-end residential homes.  Budget may be a significant factor for most people, but intended use and desired lifestyle will also play an important role.  You will need to decide if you want a self-propelled RV (motorhome) or a towable (trailer).  Another option is  truck camper.  There are advantages and disadvantages to each type.  Trailers are usually less expensive, but you also have to consider the cost of a tow vehicle unless you already have a vehicle capable of towing your chosen trailer.  There are many trade offs in choosing between the various options within each category.  Motorhomes range from Class B van conversions that are essentially the same size as a regular full size van, to Class C's, built on a cutaway van or truck chassis, to large Class A units that resemble large buses and, in fact, are sometimes built on bus chassis.  Trailer options begin with small tent trailers and can range up large fifth wheels measuring 35' in length or more.  In between are a variety of "bumper pull", goose-neck, and fifth wheel trailers. Bumper pull trailers use a standard trailer hitch that is usually mounted below the bumper.  Goose-neck trailers have a trailer ball mounted in the middle of a pickup bed.  Fifth wheel trailers connect via a special hitch similar to those used by large semi-trailers, which is also mounted a pickup bed.  The towing characteristics of each type of hitch will be somewhat different so you'll want to research the handling and load capacities and, if possible, try out any options you want to consider BEFORE you buy.  Truck campers allow you to remove the camper from the truck when it is not in use and use the truck for other tasks.  Truck campers tend to be less spacious than motorhomes or trailers and are usually more top heavy.  If you live in a state where there is a lower speed limit for vehicles towing trailers (such as California), you may want to consider whether you can live with longer travel times.  The argument for differential speed limits is based on the assumption that large vehicle are safer at lower speeds and ignores the more pragmatic and scientifically proven "85 Percentile" approach, which recommends universal speed limits should be set to the speed 85% normally driven on a given stretch of road.  Consistent traffic speed has repeatedly been shown to be safer than situations involving "traffic sheer" (different speeds in different lanes, known to be one of the most dangerous practicies), yet many states continue to post differential speeds for trucks and vehicles pulling trailers, thereby creating traffic sheer.

Once you have decided on what type of RV you want, you're likely to face many more tradeoffs before you finally select a specific vehicle.  Some of the normal issues you will face will include new versus used (usually determined up front by budget), age or mileage versus luxury features (you may be able to get luxury features you want and stay within your budget by buying an older model), power versus fuel economy (if you need to tow a boat or OHV trailer  you'll want more power and will probably have to sacrifice fuel economy to get it).  Whether you opt for an older model to get more features or a newer one to minimize mechanical risk and potential maintenance cost, will depend on how badly you want the features and what resources you have (skill, tools, money) to handle additional maintenance.  Some other considerations may include intended use:  do you plan to stay mostly in campgrounds with full hookups or will you be doing a lot of "boondocking"?  Class A motorhomes generally have larger fresh water and waste water holding tanks than Class B or C units and allow you longer boondocking stays.  Class C motorhomes, oddly enough, often offer bunkhouse configurations that provide more beds and may be better suited for large or growing families.  Nearly all modern motorhomes are self-contained and, therefore, suitable for boodocking.

Where you are in your life may be a significant factor in making tradeoffs.   Having a young family will obviously swing things in favor of "bunkhouse" motorhomes with lots of sleeping capacity and room for growth.  And older couple may favor more conveniences and more luxury.  RV manufacturers know this and you'll find that those huge, high end, luxury coaches are often designed mostly for two people.  A young family may want to favor a late model low mileage unit.  An older couple may choose to spend the same amount of money to get an older coach with more amenities.  The longevity and resale value may be more important and of more use to a younger user while comfort and convenience may be more appealing to an older couple.

You may want to consider whether certain accessories or features are essential in your initial purchase,  or whether you can add them on later.  Some features, such as slide-outs, are not practical or cost-effective to add on to existing vehicles.  Things like hydraulic levelers are pretty costly and usually require expensive professional installation.  If you're a moderately good handyman and have the right tools and equipment, you may be able to install awnings yourself and anyone with basic mechanical skills can add wheel simulators to improve the appearance of a rig with standard steel wheels.  Likewise, you can probably add or replace a microwave oven or TV without too much expense or difficulty, but replacing a refrigerator is a much bigger job.

New versus used is often a legitimate question when buying camping equipment or RVs.   So-called "pre-owned" (used) items are less expensive to purchase than new ones, but sometimes repair or maintenance costs may favor buying new, especially if you're not a Do-It-Yourselfer.  If you decide to go with used items, be sure you are aware of any necessary repairs they may need before you buy.  Also consider whether you have the resources (parts, materials, skills, tools, time or money) to affect the repairs or the financial resources to hire someone else to do it.  Used tents, camping stoves, lanterns, and even sleeping bags are often a good bargain.  Some people have concerns about using personal items like sleeping bags but a trip to the dry cleaners should take care of that.  Check tents to be sure all the parts are there and that there are no major rips or tears.  Look out for leaking fuel tanks on stoves and gas lanterns.  They are not easy to repair and can be costly to replace.  You can usually save a LOT of money on used RVs, but shop around to get the best value.  Keep in mind the best value does not always mean the lowest price.  Consider age, mileage, condition, features, and how you plan to use the RV.  Buying a huge luxury motorhome won't be of much use if you plan to mostly visit Forest Service campgrounds that often have size limitations.  And  cute little Class B won't hold more than a couple of people (surprisingly, a lot of large luxury RVs are designed for only two people too).  Are you going to use your RV for a base camp for other outdoor activities?  If so, consider whether the CVWR (Combined Vehicle Weight Rating) is sufficient to accommodate your toys (boats, OHVs, etc).

Perhaps the biggest choice for boaters whether you want a power boat or not.  Power boats will come with most of the mechanical ramifications of any motorized recreational machine.   They give you relative freedom of movement regardless of wind or currents.   Alternatives include things like kayaks, canoes, paddle boards, rowboats, and sailboats.   What you choose will depend on personal preferences and how much effort you are willing to invest in using it.  Power boats require the least effort with sailboats next with human-powered craft  requiring the most effort to use.  Where you plan to use it will also affect which option is best for you.  Not all venues have winds that are suitable for sailing.  Some scenic rivers prohibit power boats.

You will encounter trade offs in choosing gear and equipment to support your camping and related activities.  Cost versus features will often be a factor.  Size and weight versus durability and convenience is also a frequent issue.  Availability of replacement parts may feature in consideration of vintage RVs and equipment.

As you go forth you will be looking at tradeoffs associated with just about every outing.  Where you go and for how long is a frequent factor in choosing a destination.  Do you have enough time to make the trip and enjoy it?  Would there be a better time to go, based on weather, accessibility, and your own personal or family schedule.  You will make tradeoffs regarding menu and supplies, even about clothing.

There are many trade offs to be considered for other activities to be paired with camping.  First, do you even want or need any additional activities?  Then do you prefer group activities with high social interactions or more private and primitive experiences?  Do you enjoy using motorized toys?  Do you already have friends with which you would like to share an activity they enjoy?  Your budget (both available time and money) may help you determine what activities are within your reach and whether you should pursue new or used equipment.

Let the trading begin!