Safe fueling is a factor for RVers, OHVers, and tent campers. Even if you're a tent camper and don't have any kind of RV, you will likely be using a motor vehicle to get to your campground. Almost all RVs use propane to fuel stoves, furnaces, hot water heaters, and refrigerators. Motorhomes also have gasoline or diesel tanks for engine fuel. Travel trailers may have a gasoline tank for powering an on board generator and a propane tank for appliances (and sometimes the generator).
It should go without saying to NEVER smoke or use any kind of ignition source around fuel pumps or fuel tanks or when transferring fuel from one container to another. But some people still need a reminder. The brightly displayed warning signs are certainly preferable to suffering the natural consequences of igniting volatile vapors! Note: warnings against using a cell phone at many gas stations are not supported by the evidence. You are far more likely to ignite fumes from a static discharge from sliding off the seat than from using your cell phone.
Always turn off the engine and all propane appliances before fueling either a propane tank or fuel tank. Sparks from a vehicle or generator exhaust could ignite fumes. Pilot lights or electronic ignition of propane appliances could also ignite fumes. The main shutoff valve on motorhome propane tanks must be closed prior to filling the tank. Trailers and campers usually have portable propane thanks. These should be removed from the vehicle and placed on the ground for filling. The attendant should insist that you remove them before filling. The same is true for the portable tanks for your BBQ. Always be careful when moving a propane tank. The steel construction of the tank could cause a spark from movement on pavement. Since excess propane is vented to release pressure in the hose before the hose is disconnected, there could be volatile fumes near the tank. Many propane filling stations have protective steel cylinders they put the tanks in while filling, just in case there is a defect in the tank that might let it explode was pressure increases.
Some motorhomes have dual fuel tanks. This nicely extends the distance between fuel stops, but increases the time it takes to fill the tank(s). Sometimes the fillers for the two tanks are located on opposite sides of the coach, requiring you to back up and switch sides of the pump to fill the second tank. If you haven't hung up the hose and stopped the pump be sure to have someone hold the nozzle. DO NOT lay it down on the ground. Fuel remaining in the hose will leak out and create a hazard. Most gas pumps have a purchase limit when using a credit or debit card. With today's high, fluctuating fuel prices, this limit is often inadequate to fill even one large motorhome fuel tank, let alone two. You may find it more convenient to plan fuel stops more frequently with the goal of staying within the purchase limits instead of running one or both tanks nearly empty before stopping for fuel. A large motorhome with 100 gallon fuel capacity can take around $400 of fuel to fill empty tanks at today's prices in remote areas.
It should go without saying that you should extinguish any smoking materials, open flames, or other possible sources of ignition. Yes, I said it before above but it is worth repeating. Fuel vapors are VERY volatile and can be ignited easily. There is even a common myth that cell phones can cause gas station fires. According to snopes.com this is FALSE. However, I suspect texting or chatting on a cell phone might cause a distraction that allows another hazardous situation to occur, possibly leading to a fuel spill or other accident. Even with the automatic shutoff on most gas pumps you should monitor filling to avoid overfill and spillage. If there is a spill, flush it with water or report it to the station attendant.
Static electricity is a real threat when fueling. See Static Electricity At The Gas Pump for more information. When you first exit your vehicle, any charge is usually dissipated as you use the pump card reader and pick up the nozzle. However, if you get back into the car, you may generate a new charge that can be dangerous. To be on the safe side, avoid getting back into the vehicle until your transaction is complete and always touch the metal cabinet of the pump before handling the nozzle. Gas station fires once thought to be caused by cell phones have been proven to have been ignited by static electricity.
If you are filling a gas can, take it out of your vehicle and place it on the ground before filling it. Static electricity can build up from the act of fueling if the can is left in the vehicle. Also, keep the nozzle in contact with the container while filling. Touch the metal frame of the pump or a metal overhead canopy before starting fueling to dissipate any static buildup in your body before starting to pump fuel.
Cell phone use during fueling is often discouraged. The claim that cell phones cause gas stations fires is an unfounded myth, but there are still valid reasons to avoid using a cell phone while fueling. Even though there is no evidence that cell phones themselves can generate a spark sufficient it ignite fuel fumes, the static electricity from re-entering your car to get your phone or put it back can trigger a fire. Using your cell phone, either talking or texting, can also be distracting to the point that you may not notice overfilling or other dangerous conditions. Sometimes drivers get back into their cars to retrieve their cell phones and that can create a static electric charge which can trigger an explosion.
Gas lanterns, portable heaters, and camp stoves all require fuel. If they use white gas you will need to exercise extra caution when filling them. Make sure the appliance is on a stable surface where it won't easily fall tip over. Make sure you are in a well ventilated area so fumes won't accumulate. Clean up any spilled fuel immediately. The tanks are usually under pressure so be careful to go slowly removing the cap so the pressure can escape without spraying fuel on you or anything around you. Use an appropriately sized funnel to pour fuel into the tank and take care not to overfill and spill. Filling lanterns can be especially dangerous because they are often still hot when they run out of fuel and campers are anxious to get them going again. Opening the pressure cap on a hot lantern can result in serious injuries from the resulting fire and/or explosion. Camp stoves usually have a removable gas tank so you can take it a safe distance from the hot burners to refuel. Propane appliances are a little easier to swap tanks on, but some gas may escape when you remove the old tank, so work in an open or well ventilated area away from flames or other sources of ignition. It may seem obvious and indeed it should be, but be sure to shut off the burner before changing cylinders.
Gas stations have an emergency shut off switch that should always be clearly labeled and in plain sight. It can be used to shut down all the pumps if there is a fire. It is a good idea to make it practice to locate the shut off switch before you start pumping. That way, if there is an emergency, you won't be wasting time searching for it.
Fire is our friend when it is safely controlled in an appliance or a campfire. It is definitely NOT friendly in a gas station! Proper fueling procedures will avoid spills and fires and ensure your safety.
Safety First!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Saturday, January 5, 2013
Fuel Storage
Fuel storage is an issue for RVers, OHVers, and campers. In order to be prepared for spontaneous outings and to use our RVs or camping supplies in a disaster situation, we need to store some fuel at home, assuming we can do it legally and safely. There are some jurisdictions that place limitations on the types and amounts as well as methods of storage for fuel. Most suburban residences routinely store a can of gas for lawnmowers and propane for their BBQs. Most homeowners probably aren't storing it properly.
Keeping the fuel tanks on your RV full in storage is usually a recommended practice. There are seldom any prohibitions on parking a vehicle with a full gas tank. While a full gas tank represents a greater source of combustible materials if the vehicle catches fire, keeping it full reduces the chances of accidental ignition. It is the fumes that burn, not the liquid gasoline. I have seen demonstrations of dropping match into a 1-gallon tin can filled to the top with gasoline and the match just goes out. Do that with a 1-gallon tin with only about 1 inch of gasoline in the bottom and you'll get an explosive ignition! Mythbusters did a demonstration blowing up cars with different levels of fuel. Which one made the biggest, baddest, boom? The one with an empty gas tank! Regularly inspect your fuel tank and fuel lines to be sure there aren't any leaks. This applies to the propane tank on all RVs, stoves, and BBQs as well as motor fuel tanks on motorhomes, tow vehicles, watercraft, and OHVs.
Safe storage of portable fuel containers is governed by both common sense and government regulations. OSHA has very specific rules for the storage of flammable liquids, including paints and cleaning solvents as well as fuel. Many cities have additional regulations regarding home storage of fuels so check with your own city before you begin hoarding propane cylinders or gas cans against a potential emergency. Store flammable materials and corrosive materials in separate areas outside of your home. And, no, an attached garage is not considered "outside your home". This is where the average homeowner runs afoul of both fuel safety and (often) the law. Fuel should be stored in a metal building, like a shed, separated from the structure containing your living quarters. Keep in mind that gasoline does go bad over time. Exposing it to hot temperatures in storage speeds evaporation and deterioration.
NEVER store fuel in anything but an approved container. Gasoline and other petroleum products may react with many types of plastic which could cause an unsafe condition. To see an accelerated demonstration of this, pour a little gasoline in a styrofoam cup. Make sure you do this where the spill won't kill your grass or endanger structures because the cup will quickly melt and release the gasoline. Other plastics, like milk and juice jugs may react more slowly, but the only containers you can be sure won't react are those approved for fuels. There are different colored containers for gasoline (red) and diesel (yellow). Water jugs are usually blue or green. This will help you keep track of the proper fuels for different pieces of equipment and help you avoid mixing fuels. Putting gasoline into a diesel engine or diesel fuel into a gasoline engine can cause serious problems. Plastic gas cans designed for off-road use are usually square, making them more stable than standard "jerry" cans. They can be equipped with a hose to make a convenient spout for filling your OHV. For even more convenience and to prevent spills, you can screw a 2" long 1/2" plastic pipe nipple into the end of the hose and add a PVC pipe cap. If you store mixed gas for 2-stroke engines like those found on OHVs, outboard motors, chain saws, and some garden equipment, label it with the fuel ratio so you will know which devices it can be used in. Using mixture that is too rich will foul plugs; using a mixture that is too lean can cause the engine to seize. And no engine runs well on the wrong mixture.
NEVER store portable fuel containers inside your RV or your residence. Even storing them in your garage, as many people do, isn't a good idea. For real safety, store them in a separate metal shed or cabinet outside. This applies to spare tanks for your BBQ and to the 1 lb cylinders used to fuel camping equipment. When you need to transport portable cylinders in your RV on camping trips, place them in an outside cabinet away from any source of heat or ignition. You may need to crawl under your motorhome and inspect exhaust pipes from the engine and from the generator to make sure they don't come dangerously close to a cabinet where you plan to store fuel. Make sure any tanks you carry are closed and not leaking. There is no manual shut-off valve on 1-lb propane cylinders. hey are designed to seal automatically when they are removed from appliances. To be sure, sniff the top of the canister and/or spray it with a little soapy water to make sure it sealed correctly . There will usually be a little odor for a minute or so after disconnecting, but it should quickly go away. Test it with soapy water to be sure. If it is leaking, dispose of it properly and DO NOT put it back in your RV cabinet . Leaking fumes could accumulate until they reach the flash point, at which time any spark would cause an explosion! If you have no place to dispose of it, leave it sitting outside until any sign of leakage is gone. At that point either it has emptied or resealed itself and should no longer be dangerous. Personally, I would mark such a container and dispose of it when I got home to avoid any future risk. Or put it back into your stove, BBQ, or lantern, and use it up. If you carry extra fuel for your RV or OHVs, carry in only in an approved container and keep it outside of your RV. Gas can racks can often be mounted on the rear bumper of a motorhome or travel trailer. If you carry fuel in an enclosed OHV trailer, which is a fairly common practice, make sure the cans are tightly closed and leave some ventilation in the trailer (windows and/or roof vents) so fumes from any spills or leaks from gas cans or vehicles that may happen will dissipate before they reach the flash point.
When filling gas cans at a filling station, always remove them from your vehicle and put them on the ground. Leaving them in the back of a pickup truck, in a trailer, or in the racks on your bumper may allow static electricity to build up during fueling which could cause a fire or explosion. While we're on the subject of fueling safety, it goes without saying you should not smoke. There is also a common myth that cell phones can cause fires while fueling. According to snopes.com, this is FALSE. There has never been any documented evidence to support this claim. Other sources of ignition, mostly static electricity, have been found at all incidents where a fire occurred while a customer was using a cell phone. Here are some additional detailed guidelines about filling gas cans: Fill Gas Cans Carefully.
Safety First!
Keeping the fuel tanks on your RV full in storage is usually a recommended practice. There are seldom any prohibitions on parking a vehicle with a full gas tank. While a full gas tank represents a greater source of combustible materials if the vehicle catches fire, keeping it full reduces the chances of accidental ignition. It is the fumes that burn, not the liquid gasoline. I have seen demonstrations of dropping match into a 1-gallon tin can filled to the top with gasoline and the match just goes out. Do that with a 1-gallon tin with only about 1 inch of gasoline in the bottom and you'll get an explosive ignition! Mythbusters did a demonstration blowing up cars with different levels of fuel. Which one made the biggest, baddest, boom? The one with an empty gas tank! Regularly inspect your fuel tank and fuel lines to be sure there aren't any leaks. This applies to the propane tank on all RVs, stoves, and BBQs as well as motor fuel tanks on motorhomes, tow vehicles, watercraft, and OHVs.
Safe storage of portable fuel containers is governed by both common sense and government regulations. OSHA has very specific rules for the storage of flammable liquids, including paints and cleaning solvents as well as fuel. Many cities have additional regulations regarding home storage of fuels so check with your own city before you begin hoarding propane cylinders or gas cans against a potential emergency. Store flammable materials and corrosive materials in separate areas outside of your home. And, no, an attached garage is not considered "outside your home". This is where the average homeowner runs afoul of both fuel safety and (often) the law. Fuel should be stored in a metal building, like a shed, separated from the structure containing your living quarters. Keep in mind that gasoline does go bad over time. Exposing it to hot temperatures in storage speeds evaporation and deterioration.
NEVER store fuel in anything but an approved container. Gasoline and other petroleum products may react with many types of plastic which could cause an unsafe condition. To see an accelerated demonstration of this, pour a little gasoline in a styrofoam cup. Make sure you do this where the spill won't kill your grass or endanger structures because the cup will quickly melt and release the gasoline. Other plastics, like milk and juice jugs may react more slowly, but the only containers you can be sure won't react are those approved for fuels. There are different colored containers for gasoline (red) and diesel (yellow). Water jugs are usually blue or green. This will help you keep track of the proper fuels for different pieces of equipment and help you avoid mixing fuels. Putting gasoline into a diesel engine or diesel fuel into a gasoline engine can cause serious problems. Plastic gas cans designed for off-road use are usually square, making them more stable than standard "jerry" cans. They can be equipped with a hose to make a convenient spout for filling your OHV. For even more convenience and to prevent spills, you can screw a 2" long 1/2" plastic pipe nipple into the end of the hose and add a PVC pipe cap. If you store mixed gas for 2-stroke engines like those found on OHVs, outboard motors, chain saws, and some garden equipment, label it with the fuel ratio so you will know which devices it can be used in. Using mixture that is too rich will foul plugs; using a mixture that is too lean can cause the engine to seize. And no engine runs well on the wrong mixture.
NEVER store portable fuel containers inside your RV or your residence. Even storing them in your garage, as many people do, isn't a good idea. For real safety, store them in a separate metal shed or cabinet outside. This applies to spare tanks for your BBQ and to the 1 lb cylinders used to fuel camping equipment. When you need to transport portable cylinders in your RV on camping trips, place them in an outside cabinet away from any source of heat or ignition. You may need to crawl under your motorhome and inspect exhaust pipes from the engine and from the generator to make sure they don't come dangerously close to a cabinet where you plan to store fuel. Make sure any tanks you carry are closed and not leaking. There is no manual shut-off valve on 1-lb propane cylinders. hey are designed to seal automatically when they are removed from appliances. To be sure, sniff the top of the canister and/or spray it with a little soapy water to make sure it sealed correctly . There will usually be a little odor for a minute or so after disconnecting, but it should quickly go away. Test it with soapy water to be sure. If it is leaking, dispose of it properly and DO NOT put it back in your RV cabinet . Leaking fumes could accumulate until they reach the flash point, at which time any spark would cause an explosion! If you have no place to dispose of it, leave it sitting outside until any sign of leakage is gone. At that point either it has emptied or resealed itself and should no longer be dangerous. Personally, I would mark such a container and dispose of it when I got home to avoid any future risk. Or put it back into your stove, BBQ, or lantern, and use it up. If you carry extra fuel for your RV or OHVs, carry in only in an approved container and keep it outside of your RV. Gas can racks can often be mounted on the rear bumper of a motorhome or travel trailer. If you carry fuel in an enclosed OHV trailer, which is a fairly common practice, make sure the cans are tightly closed and leave some ventilation in the trailer (windows and/or roof vents) so fumes from any spills or leaks from gas cans or vehicles that may happen will dissipate before they reach the flash point.
When filling gas cans at a filling station, always remove them from your vehicle and put them on the ground. Leaving them in the back of a pickup truck, in a trailer, or in the racks on your bumper may allow static electricity to build up during fueling which could cause a fire or explosion. While we're on the subject of fueling safety, it goes without saying you should not smoke. There is also a common myth that cell phones can cause fires while fueling. According to snopes.com, this is FALSE. There has never been any documented evidence to support this claim. Other sources of ignition, mostly static electricity, have been found at all incidents where a fire occurred while a customer was using a cell phone. Here are some additional detailed guidelines about filling gas cans: Fill Gas Cans Carefully.
Safety First!
Saturday, December 29, 2012
Survival Tools and Kits
What are the best survival tools? Your best and most important tools are your brain, your attitude, your hands, and your knowledge but here are a list of physical items you should put in your survival kit and always carry with you when camping, hiking, horseback riding, or riding an OHV. If you're going to the trouble to make and carry a survival kit, it might was well have some things that in it that are truly useful and convenient to use. Just how often do you REALLY think a foot of fishing line and a couple of safety pins from the handle of one of those "Rambo" survival knives are going to be useful let alone adequate? Survival kits range from tiny little pocket-sized kits that fit in an Altoids tin to suit-case sized monsters that include just about everything you can think of, including the kitchen sink. For a survival kit to be realistic and useful, it must be something that is convenient to carry -- unless you intend it use it only for emergencies at home. It will do you zero good on the trail if it is still on the shelf in the garage or under the bed at home! Creating one that is right for you means constantly balancing and trading off completeness, convenience, cost, and portability. The best kit is one you will carry and that will have basic supplies and tools to expedite your survival. You might want a steamer trunk size survival kit at home to deal with a disaster situation, but for camping, hiking, etc., you'll probably want something that fits in a pocket or fanny pack. Commercial home disaster kits are good to have on the shelf in case of a neighborhood emergency. Most have 2-3 days of food and water, which makes them way too heavy and bulky to carry when camping. For wilderness survival, you'll want to know how to find food and water in the wild and you'll want to stock your survival kit with essential tools for survival.
Basic survival tools:
* Bic lighter
* Flint and Steel
* Multitool
* Fixed blade knife
* First aid kit
* Signal whistle
* Large plastic trash bag (orange preferred)
Some really good options to include:
* Map and compass
* GPS
* LED flashlight
* Twine or paracord
* Duct tape
* Survival blanket
Here is what I carry along with my tools in my tool bag when dirt biking:
* LED Flashlight
* Chemical light stick
* Multitool
* Survival Blanket
* Bic lighter
* Flint and steel
* Signal whistle
* A little duck tape wrapped around one of my tools
*Wooden strike anywhere matches in a genuine waterproof match container
With careful planning and wise selections you can fit all the really critical survival tools in your pockets or in a small fanny pack or tuck into your OHV tool kit. You want your survival kit to be something that is easy to carry and won't weigh you down. Otherwise you'll be tempted to leave it behind and, according to Murphy's Law, you can bet the time you leave it behind will be the time you need it.
You can buy commercial survival kits or you can build your own from scratch. Commercial kits are sometimes a good place to start and should have all the basics but you may need to augment them to meet your specific needs. Building your own survival kits from scratch allows you to focus on what YOU need for YOUR circumstances and customize it so you can comfortably take it with you when you need to.
You should probably have at least 3 or 4 survival kits. The smallest would be your personal trail kit you take with you hiking, horseback riding, dirt biking, etc. Next would be an in camp kit, which would be larger and contain more first aid supplies and tools. You should have a kit in every vehicle in case you encounter a disaster situation while on the road, going to or from you camp site or even to or from work or shopping. You may want to have a personal survival kit at work depending on what emergency preparations your employer may or may not have. You home kit should be a pretty complete kit, with plenty of first aid supplies, some emergency food and water, and tools you might need around the house or to support rescue efforts.
Remember, your brain is your most important survival tool. If you "lose your head" in a survival situation you are probably going to lose your life. STOP is a useful acronym for what to do in survival mode. It stands for Stop, Think, Observe, and Plan. Panic kills more people in most disasters than the original event. If you remember STOP it can help you prepare to survive. Stop moving; don't run around wasting energy; Think about your situation, what are your resources and your immediate needs? Observe your surroundings and your urgent needs. Are you or any of your companions injured? Are you in danger of injury? Can you find a safe place to stay? Plan you activities. Use the Rule of Threes to guide and prioritze your initial actions. Then take appropriate action.
A lot is said in survival guides about fire starting methods. Most wilderness survival sources stress variations of rubbing two sticks together. Knowing and practicing the skill is a good idea in case you get stranded unexpectedly without any preparations or supplies, but always keeping a few survival essentials with you will save you a lot of grief. As I often say, the only way I want to start a fire rubbing two sticks together is if one of them is a match! For the most convenience, carry a Bic lighter. As a backup, carry a magnesium-flint and steel fire starter . If you're putting things in a survival kit, might as well have something that is safe and easy to use. A Bic lighter takes up about as much space as a dozen wooden matches but will give you hundreds of lights instead of twelve. Even when it runs out of fuel, you can still use it as a little flint and steel. If you're going to stock a survival kit, why not stock it with things that work and you can actually use? Knowing how to start a fire with flint and steel is a good skill to have. You might luck out and find stones that create sparks in a survival situation if you don't have your trusty survival kit with you. I pick up Bic style lighters at Dollar Tree, 3 in a package so it is economical to carry one in my fanny pack, a couple spares in my motorcycle trailer and in my motorhome, and a stash in my survival supplies. One advantage to a magnesium flint and steel fire starter is the magnesium will burn even when it is wet.
Multitool versus knife. If you only have room for one, I would opt for the multitool. Having a handy pair of pliers is useful for many survival tasks, ranging from removing cactus splines from your flesh to sewing tough hides for clothing or shelter. You might even need pliers to help stitch up your own wounds. Having a good fixed-blade knife is always a good idea if you have room for it. In fact, moset survival experts say that is the best knife to carry. The folding blade on your multitool is a pretty good substitute for many tasks, but is not as safe nor as sturdy as a good hunting knife. Those big 'Rambo' style survival knives look cool and seem to have lots of neat stuff, but in a real survival situation will be less useful than a good hunting knife. Carving is a far more common survival task than hacking or chopping and the handful of little so-called survival items in the handle are probably not going to be very useful.
Home made survival knives. I came across a survival web site that describes how to make inexpensive survival knives from Sawzall blades. You can shape them to your design and add handles of your choice. Start with a "demolition" blade and you'll have a really sturdy knife that will cut just about anything. If you buy the blades in a bulk pack you can get them for under $1.00 each. You'll pay $2.00-$3.00 apiece if you buy them individually. Either way, they're a lot cheaper than store-bought survival knives, but it will take some grinding and filing plus making a handle to turn them into usable knives. How big a knife do you need? Most survival experts will advise you to carry about a 4" fixed blade knife. You will do a lot more cutting and carving than hacking in a survival situation. A nice hunting knife usually fits the bill.
First aid kit. Like the old American Express ad, "don't leave home without it". A minor wound can turn into a life-threatening situation if not properly treated. A little moleskin to prevent blisters or a few bandaids to cover minor wounds will deliver a lot of comfort, reduce additional injuries, and help you keep going. For the most complete kits, look for those designed for hunters. Then supplement them with OTC pain killers and other useful comfort supplies like antacids and anti-diarrheal tablets. And don't forget to bring along your prescription meds if you depend on them!
A large plastic trash bag can serve a multitude of uses in a survival situation. It can be used as a rain poncho, a sleeping bag, and to make a waterproof roof for your shelter. It can be used to collect moisture from plants or to build a solar still to reclaim waste water. The orange bags like those used by highway crews are the best choice since they can also be used as a signal for rescuers but an ordinary black contractor trash bag will suffice and you might even use it to heat water for bathing. Clear plastic sheeting or bags is nice for building solar stills or collecting moisture from plants so you can see what's going on inside. Even plastic grocery bags can be used to collect moisture from plants.
Being able to make cordage from materials on hand is an excellent survival skill, but having ready made cordage in the form of twine or paracord, can save you a lot of time and effort. Do you have any idea how to obtain or make cordage in a wilderness survival scenario? Here are some ideas: tree bark, reeds, weeds, long grass, sinews. If you have vehicle you may be able to strip wiring or upholstery from it to use as cordage. Binders twine is inexpensive and sturdy and has many diverse uses in camp and in survival mode. Paracord is extremely strong. You will see it sold as "paracord bracelets" which makes it easy to carry where ever you go. Paracord can be wrapped around knife handles as a convenient place to carry it and give you a little extra grip.
Duct tape. If you've ever seen the TV show MacGuyver, you know how versatile duct tape is. A whole roll is pretty large and heavy to carry around with you. Cut a 2-3' length and wrap it around a pencil, your Bic lighter, or the handle of one of your tools. Duct tape is often called "duck tape". Turns out this is more than a punny mis-pronounciation of the name . It was the name originally used by the Army when they developed it to seal ammo boxes. In consisted of strips of canvas duck plus an adhesive. Duct tape will stick to just about any clean, dry surface. Turns out duct tape will stick to just about anything but ducts. That is because by the time we get around to trying to repair ducts, they're very dusty. The tape sticks really well to the dust, but the dust doesn't stick to the duct. Duct tape has a myriad of uses in camp or in a survival situation, ranging from tent and clothing repairs to bandages. I've even seen reports of it even being used to make sun-slits as an emergency alternative to sunglasses by climbers on Mt Everest! I roll a couple feet of duct tape around a screwdriver blade in my OHV fanny pack.
Training and practice are essential. Book or online learning, or even classroom instruction is better than nothing, but to really be confident in your own abilities and be able to put them to use in an emergency takes practice. Knowing how to start a fire with flint and steel is a good thing, but until you've actually tried it you won't know how hard and fast to strike the steel against the flint to create sparks or how to prepare satisfactory tinder or how close to get your sparks to the tinder to actually get it to work. The flint often comes from the factory with a protective coating you must scrape way before you'll get useable sparks. You also need to practice turning that little bit of smoldering tinder into flames and get it into your fire before it goes out. Be sure to plan ahead so you aren't fumbling around and watch your little ember go cold while you try figure out how to get it into your fire. Remember those monsters under your bed or in your closet when you were a kid? Well, they'll come back and bring their bigger, scarier friends when you're alone in a strange place in the dark. Fire helps dispel unrealistic fears.
Tool up!
Friday, December 28, 2012
Survival Fires
Few will argue that fire building is one of the most essential survival skills. Fire will keep you warm and prevent hypothermia when it is cold. It will purify your drinking water and sterilize medical tools. It will cook your food and kill dangerous germs and parasites that might be lurking in wild game. It will entertain you and lift your spirits and make you more comfortable. It will help keep wild animals away. It will serve as a bright signal at night or a smokey column in the day to help alert rescuers to your location.
When we think of survival fires, we are usually thinking about wilderness survival. But you may need to build a survival fire in your own back yard during an extended emergency situation. You may need it mostly for cooking but might also need it for warmth or drying clothing or bedding. You probably won't need to build a signal fire in your back yard. Some jurisdictions prohibit backyard fires but in most cases cooking fires are allowed and during an extended emergency rules are likely to be somewhat relaxed.
Given the importance of fire, wouldn't it be a good idea to be able to quickly build a fire in a survival situation? You may see many survival "experts" tout old traditional, even stone-age, methods of making a fire as essential skills (mostly variations of rubbing two sticks together). While these are probably good to have as last ditch back up emergency skills in case you get stranded unexpectedly without any survival supplies, you can take simple steps to ensure you will be able to quickly make a fire in an emergency. The only way I want to start fire by rubbing two sticks together is if one of them is a match! Forget about "waterproofing" matches. DIY waterproofing can often seal in moisture rather than keeping it out. Each match is only good for one use and when they're gone, you're back to rubbing two sticks together. Any time you're headed out into the wilds where survival might come up, carry a Bic lighter. A lighter is about the same weight and takes up about the same space as a dozen wooden matches -- and will light hundreds or even thousands of times. When it runs out of fuel it may still be useful as a spark generator. Along that line, a really handy and light weight fire starter is a flint and steel. You can tuck them in your pack or pocket and always have a ready source of ignition at your fingertips. Some include magnesium sticks you can shave so you can even light a fire in wet conditions.
Here is a link to a good tutorial on 9 Ways To Start A Fire Without Matches. Note that a primary theme is practice, Practice, PRACTICE! All the book-learning in the world isn't going to do you much good if you can't make it work, especially if you're cold and wet and REALLY need a fire NOW! To be safe, know which methods are easiest and which ones work in wet weather -- and which ones YOU can actually do!
One of the most unusual ways I've seen someone start a survival fire was using a clear plastic bag filled with his own urine as a lens to focus sunlight. The technique would probably also work with clear water, but it got the job done, without wasting any precious water. One more example of making use of whatever resources you have in a survival situation.
Flick your Bic! A Bic style lighter should be one of your primary survival tools. Even when the fuel runs out, it is still an effective flint and steel that can create a spark large enough to ignite well-prepared tinder -- until the flint wears out. It is small, light weight, and very durable. It is highly resistant to water and somewhat resistant to wind. Lighters will withstand surprisingly hard impacts. I wouldn't recommend deliberately testing them with a rock or a hammer, but they will probably stand up well to most of the abuse they'll receive in pocket or pack. I have often touted flint and steel as a basic survival tool, but I would strongly urge you to carry a lighter as your primary fire-making tool -- and flint and steel as a backup. A lighter will only last so long before the fuel runs out or the flint is used up.
Of course you can use matches to start your fire -- if you have them. Strike anywhere wooden matches are my preferred matches for camping and survival. The Strike on box version isn't as versatile but may be a little safer if there are small children around so they may be good in your home survival kit. Paper or "safety" matches aren't as durable as wooden matches and can only be struck on the special strip on the cover. However, in an emergency situation, you might be able to double your supply of matches by splitting paper matches. I've tried it, and it isn't easy. I've seen Les Stroud do it on an episode of Survivorman. As he said, it is always good to conserve your resources in a survival situation. Paper matches have the advantage of being small and easy to carry. A book of matches is roughly the size of an old Eisenhower silver dollar. If you choose to carry paper matches, put them in a sealed plastic bag to avoid getting them wet. They won't work at all when they are wet!
As a backup fire starter, carry a magnesium flint and steel fire starter. You can start a fire with one of these even when it is wet. Shave some of the magnesium to make small pile and strike a spark into the pile with the flint and steel. Magnesium is the same stuff used in old-fashioned flash bulbs and will burn bright and hot, even when it is wet. A typical flint and steel fire starter will give you thousands of lights. Practice using your flint and steel to routinely start your campfire so you will be comfortable with the technique and able to accomplish the task quickly in a survival situation. Be aware that they often come from the factory with protective coatings that inhibit the spark, so it may take a few tries before you get a good spark from a new one. The mass and durability of a flint and steel fire starter will ensure you enough to start lots of fires. The tiny little flint and abrasive wheel on lighters can wear out rather quickly, especially when the fuel runs out and you have to keep striking them over and over to use the sparks to ignite your fire. Having properly prepared tinder is essential for successfully starting a fire with flint and steel. My preferred tinder is cotton balls. Synthetic "cosmetic puffs" may look the same, but the sparks melt through the fibers instead of igniting them the way they do with 100% cotton.
Rubbing two sticks together is a last resort, one you may be stuck with if you have gone out unprepared or found yourself unexpectedly in survival mode, like Tom Hanks in the movie Castaway. The only way I want to start fire rubbing two sticks together is if one of them is a match! However, you could unexpectedly find yourself in a situation where that is your only choice. Anything you can do to give you a mechanical advantage will be helpful. A bow drill can save you a lot of blisters. You'll need a flexible bow (usually a green stick); a hardwood base place, a softwood drill, and a bowstring. The bowstring must be looped around the drill so it spins the drill as you "saw" the bow back and forth. Lacking the materials (or knowledge) to make a bow drill, a fire plow, is a simple alternative. It works like this: start with a shallow grove in your base material and push the tip of your "plow" along the groove rapidly and repeatedly until it gets hot enough to begin to smoke and create an ember you can add to tinder to get your fire going. You can create enough friction to get a fire started by twirling a stick with your hands into a notch in your base plate, but it is very likely you'll blister your hands before you get fire. To minimize blistering, use a "drill" that is about 2' long. Start with your hands at the top and spin the "drill" between them by rubbing your hands back and forth as you press down on the drill. Your hands should move slowly down the drill as you spin it. You might prepare your hands for the proper movement with an exercise like the hand movements for the "itsy bitsy spider" children's game. The downward movement keeps pressure between the drill and the base plate to generate friction and reduces the chances of blisters. Wear gloves if you have them. Stop now and then and slap your hands together to minimize getting blisters. Your goal is NOT to prove how macho you are or how much pain you can endure. It is to get a fire going with as little pain and waste of energy as possible. For just about any variation of rubbing two sticks together, the base should be hardwood and the drill or plow should be softwood. And always prepare fine, dry, easily ignitable tinder. Quite frankly, before I would try rubbing two sticks together I would scout around for some rocks that might make a spark when banged together or struck with steel. Hopefully you at least have your multi-tool or pocket knife with you.
The sun can be an excellent source of energy to light fires. You just need a way of focusing the sunlight into a concentrated point to get enough heat to ignite your tinder. The classic tool for this is a magnifying glass. But since just about no one except Sherlock Holmes carries a magnifying glass around with them all the time, you may have to find an alternative. Prescription eye glasses are sometimes strong enough to focus sunlight. Sometimes a flashlight lens will work, but many of them are flat and don't concentrate the sunlight as needed. A clear plastic bottle or bag filled with water (or urine) can also work. You can also polish the bottom of an aluminum soda or beer can to make a parabolic reflector. The most publicized version of this used chocolate as the polishing agent, but you might do it with toothpaste or something else that contains a fine grain polishing agent. BTW, don't eat the chocolate after using it to polish the can. Really clear ice might act as a lens, but most ice contains contaminates that scatter the light instead of focusing it.
A "Dakota fire pit" is a good way to build an efficient cooking fire. Essentially it consists of a main fire pit about 1' across and 8-10" deep with a small tunnel from the bottom extending out a foot or so at 45 degrees on the upwind side to provide draft. The pit concentrates the heat and the tunnel draws air from the bottom of the pit to fan the flames to create a very hot fire for cooking. Because it is mostly beneath ground level, a Dakota fire pit is not very good for warming people around it. However, if there is any need for concealment, as can happen in military situations, being below ground is a good thing since it reduces visibility that might reveal your position. Here is a really good article on survival fires and especially the Dakota Fire pit. If you use a Dakota Fire Pit for cooking and personal warmth you may need to have a separate signal fire ready to light when rescuers approach.
Signal fires may be one exception to building a larger fire than you need to keep you warm. A larger fire will be easier for rescuers to see at night and will last longer should you fall asleep and can't keep feeding it. However, large fires consume a lot of fuel and it will take a lot of your energy to keep feeding it. It is a good idea to build up a large wood pile nearby when you need to feed a signal fire. During daytime you will need green boughs or leaves to create extra smoke to make it easier for searchers to find you.
Another exception to the small fire rule is when it is raining or snowing. In cases of heavy rain or snow, a large fire has a better chance of lasting out the storm. Using a large punky log that will burn slowly or piling on a bunch of dried cattle dung are also ways to keep it smoldering, even in a downpour. You may need a large fire to sustain you through the night too or as a signal fire. For signaling, a large column of smoke is going to be more visible than a fire during the day, so have some green or damp branches or boughs or grass or big chuck of punky wood on hand to increase the smoke when needed. Dried cow manure or "buffalo chips" is also works well to keep a smoldering fire. Survivalists sometimes use this trick to transport fire from one site to another, by making a "fire bundle", wrapping the smoldering manure in green leaves or wet leather.
Urban survival, that is, being in a survival situation at home, may require fires for outdoor cooking or for emergency heat. Certainly having a wood-burning fireplace or wood stove will give you useful options for keeping your family and your home warm in cold weather if utilities are out . If you don't have a supply of firewood you may have to resort to burning books or furniture. Sacrificing that Chippenddale table would be a shame, but it sure beats freezing to death! I enjoyed the scene in the movie, "The Day After Tomorrow" when the kids discovered there was a whole shelf of tax law books they could burn in the library fireplace instead of the classics to keep from freezing to death. Good choice! If you are in freezing weather, keeping the interior of your home above 32°F is critical to avoid pipes from freezing. If utilities are out, you may need to cook outdoors. An easy and often readily available solution is your portable back yard BBQ. Built in BBQs or others connected to natural gas won't be working if the gas is shut off. Do you have a place in your backyard where you can build a campfire? If not, you might want to look into to making one so you have a place to build a cooking fire during any long term outages. If you're at home you will probably have access to matches and/or lighters if you're at all prepared -- at least for a while. If you don't have a significant cache you may run out before utilities are restored and may have to resort to flint and steel or rubbing two sticks together.
For long term survival, like you might experience in disaster situation, a "rocket stove" might be helpful. They can be made from many readily available materials. Search for "rocket stove plans" using your favorite Internet search engine. Here are videos for making rocket stoves from several different kinds of materials. A really easy and inexpensive version can be made from a #10 can and 4 soup cans . You can cook an entire meal for 4 people just a handful of twigs.
NEVER use open fires or even hibatchis, propane BBQs or camp stoves indoors. Is isn't safe! There are special indoor propane heaters, like the "Buddy Heater", that you can use indoors safely, but units not rated for indoor use can be lethal. Even if a stove doesn't put out toxic fumes, which most do, it will consume oxygen and, without proper ventilation, you will suffocate. This has happened even to experienced campers who knew better but forgot when they set up a tent heater in a closed camper.
Survival fires serve many purposes. Obvious uses are to keep you warm, purify water, and cook your food. Keeping wild animals away is also a widely recognized function of fire. Signalling is also a frequent and effective use of fire in a survival situation. Less obvious, but more important than most people realize, is the psychological effect of fire on people in a survival situation. Remember, your attitude is the single most significant factor in your survival. Fire can help you maintain a positive attitude. Fire improves your comfort, safety, and state of mind. Firelight helps us control the irrational fears that can set in when we're alone in the dark. Remember the monsters in the closet or under the bed when you were a kid? Figure they're about 10 times scarier (even to grownups) in a survival situation. Every sound, every shadow, appears to be a threat.
Survival fire safety. Just because you're in survival mode doesn't mean you can ignore fire safety rules. In fact, it will behoove you to be especially careful with your survival fire. The last thing you need is to turn your survival environment into a raging inferno. It will no doubt attract lots of attention, but you are likely to perish long before any potential rescuers can get close enough to even know you're there. Always follow standard fire safety rules. Make sure you clear the ground of combustible materials for at least 5' around your fire as well as beneath it. Make sure there are no overhanging branches that could catch fire. Don't build a fire bigger than is necessary. A small fire is usually adequate for cooking. A medium sized fire may be needed for warmth, depending on weather conditions and the number of people you need to keep warm. Large fires might be needed for signally, but making even signal fires too big only wastes fuel -- and your energy collecting it. Be careful where you build your fire. Even Suvivorman Les Stroud managed to set his driftwood shelter on fire in one episode. Building fires in caves may seem practical, but the heat can cause the overhead rocks to expand and possible crack and fall on you, especially if you're in a small cave with a low ceiling. Better to build the fire outside and let it warm you and the cave slowly and indirectly. Sometimes building a fire in a cave might be the sensible thing to do. Getting your fire out of the rain may be essential to keeping it going. Having a fire in a cave can provide a warm environment for you and your companions. Don't build a big fire that touches the walls or ceiling as that may increase the risk of cracking the rock around you. Heat up some softball sized rocks to put in your bedding to help keep you warm at night. They are especially comforting as foot warmers, but putting one in each arm pit and between your thighs might warm the rest of your body more quickly. Just don't get them TOO hot! You want to place them close to major arteries (like the femoral artery in your thighs) where they can warm the blood so it warms other parts of the body. Holding warm stones in your hands for a while can help thaw frozen fingers and restore mobility you might need for survival tasks. Another trick for warming cold hand is to clamp them in your armpits or between your thighs.
Light up!
When we think of survival fires, we are usually thinking about wilderness survival. But you may need to build a survival fire in your own back yard during an extended emergency situation. You may need it mostly for cooking but might also need it for warmth or drying clothing or bedding. You probably won't need to build a signal fire in your back yard. Some jurisdictions prohibit backyard fires but in most cases cooking fires are allowed and during an extended emergency rules are likely to be somewhat relaxed.
Given the importance of fire, wouldn't it be a good idea to be able to quickly build a fire in a survival situation? You may see many survival "experts" tout old traditional, even stone-age, methods of making a fire as essential skills (mostly variations of rubbing two sticks together). While these are probably good to have as last ditch back up emergency skills in case you get stranded unexpectedly without any survival supplies, you can take simple steps to ensure you will be able to quickly make a fire in an emergency. The only way I want to start fire by rubbing two sticks together is if one of them is a match! Forget about "waterproofing" matches. DIY waterproofing can often seal in moisture rather than keeping it out. Each match is only good for one use and when they're gone, you're back to rubbing two sticks together. Any time you're headed out into the wilds where survival might come up, carry a Bic lighter. A lighter is about the same weight and takes up about the same space as a dozen wooden matches -- and will light hundreds or even thousands of times. When it runs out of fuel it may still be useful as a spark generator. Along that line, a really handy and light weight fire starter is a flint and steel. You can tuck them in your pack or pocket and always have a ready source of ignition at your fingertips. Some include magnesium sticks you can shave so you can even light a fire in wet conditions.
Here is a link to a good tutorial on 9 Ways To Start A Fire Without Matches. Note that a primary theme is practice, Practice, PRACTICE! All the book-learning in the world isn't going to do you much good if you can't make it work, especially if you're cold and wet and REALLY need a fire NOW! To be safe, know which methods are easiest and which ones work in wet weather -- and which ones YOU can actually do!
One of the most unusual ways I've seen someone start a survival fire was using a clear plastic bag filled with his own urine as a lens to focus sunlight. The technique would probably also work with clear water, but it got the job done, without wasting any precious water. One more example of making use of whatever resources you have in a survival situation.
Flick your Bic! A Bic style lighter should be one of your primary survival tools. Even when the fuel runs out, it is still an effective flint and steel that can create a spark large enough to ignite well-prepared tinder -- until the flint wears out. It is small, light weight, and very durable. It is highly resistant to water and somewhat resistant to wind. Lighters will withstand surprisingly hard impacts. I wouldn't recommend deliberately testing them with a rock or a hammer, but they will probably stand up well to most of the abuse they'll receive in pocket or pack. I have often touted flint and steel as a basic survival tool, but I would strongly urge you to carry a lighter as your primary fire-making tool -- and flint and steel as a backup. A lighter will only last so long before the fuel runs out or the flint is used up.
Of course you can use matches to start your fire -- if you have them. Strike anywhere wooden matches are my preferred matches for camping and survival. The Strike on box version isn't as versatile but may be a little safer if there are small children around so they may be good in your home survival kit. Paper or "safety" matches aren't as durable as wooden matches and can only be struck on the special strip on the cover. However, in an emergency situation, you might be able to double your supply of matches by splitting paper matches. I've tried it, and it isn't easy. I've seen Les Stroud do it on an episode of Survivorman. As he said, it is always good to conserve your resources in a survival situation. Paper matches have the advantage of being small and easy to carry. A book of matches is roughly the size of an old Eisenhower silver dollar. If you choose to carry paper matches, put them in a sealed plastic bag to avoid getting them wet. They won't work at all when they are wet!
As a backup fire starter, carry a magnesium flint and steel fire starter. You can start a fire with one of these even when it is wet. Shave some of the magnesium to make small pile and strike a spark into the pile with the flint and steel. Magnesium is the same stuff used in old-fashioned flash bulbs and will burn bright and hot, even when it is wet. A typical flint and steel fire starter will give you thousands of lights. Practice using your flint and steel to routinely start your campfire so you will be comfortable with the technique and able to accomplish the task quickly in a survival situation. Be aware that they often come from the factory with protective coatings that inhibit the spark, so it may take a few tries before you get a good spark from a new one. The mass and durability of a flint and steel fire starter will ensure you enough to start lots of fires. The tiny little flint and abrasive wheel on lighters can wear out rather quickly, especially when the fuel runs out and you have to keep striking them over and over to use the sparks to ignite your fire. Having properly prepared tinder is essential for successfully starting a fire with flint and steel. My preferred tinder is cotton balls. Synthetic "cosmetic puffs" may look the same, but the sparks melt through the fibers instead of igniting them the way they do with 100% cotton.
Rubbing two sticks together is a last resort, one you may be stuck with if you have gone out unprepared or found yourself unexpectedly in survival mode, like Tom Hanks in the movie Castaway. The only way I want to start fire rubbing two sticks together is if one of them is a match! However, you could unexpectedly find yourself in a situation where that is your only choice. Anything you can do to give you a mechanical advantage will be helpful. A bow drill can save you a lot of blisters. You'll need a flexible bow (usually a green stick); a hardwood base place, a softwood drill, and a bowstring. The bowstring must be looped around the drill so it spins the drill as you "saw" the bow back and forth. Lacking the materials (or knowledge) to make a bow drill, a fire plow, is a simple alternative. It works like this: start with a shallow grove in your base material and push the tip of your "plow" along the groove rapidly and repeatedly until it gets hot enough to begin to smoke and create an ember you can add to tinder to get your fire going. You can create enough friction to get a fire started by twirling a stick with your hands into a notch in your base plate, but it is very likely you'll blister your hands before you get fire. To minimize blistering, use a "drill" that is about 2' long. Start with your hands at the top and spin the "drill" between them by rubbing your hands back and forth as you press down on the drill. Your hands should move slowly down the drill as you spin it. You might prepare your hands for the proper movement with an exercise like the hand movements for the "itsy bitsy spider" children's game. The downward movement keeps pressure between the drill and the base plate to generate friction and reduces the chances of blisters. Wear gloves if you have them. Stop now and then and slap your hands together to minimize getting blisters. Your goal is NOT to prove how macho you are or how much pain you can endure. It is to get a fire going with as little pain and waste of energy as possible. For just about any variation of rubbing two sticks together, the base should be hardwood and the drill or plow should be softwood. And always prepare fine, dry, easily ignitable tinder. Quite frankly, before I would try rubbing two sticks together I would scout around for some rocks that might make a spark when banged together or struck with steel. Hopefully you at least have your multi-tool or pocket knife with you.
The sun can be an excellent source of energy to light fires. You just need a way of focusing the sunlight into a concentrated point to get enough heat to ignite your tinder. The classic tool for this is a magnifying glass. But since just about no one except Sherlock Holmes carries a magnifying glass around with them all the time, you may have to find an alternative. Prescription eye glasses are sometimes strong enough to focus sunlight. Sometimes a flashlight lens will work, but many of them are flat and don't concentrate the sunlight as needed. A clear plastic bottle or bag filled with water (or urine) can also work. You can also polish the bottom of an aluminum soda or beer can to make a parabolic reflector. The most publicized version of this used chocolate as the polishing agent, but you might do it with toothpaste or something else that contains a fine grain polishing agent. BTW, don't eat the chocolate after using it to polish the can. Really clear ice might act as a lens, but most ice contains contaminates that scatter the light instead of focusing it.
A "Dakota fire pit" is a good way to build an efficient cooking fire. Essentially it consists of a main fire pit about 1' across and 8-10" deep with a small tunnel from the bottom extending out a foot or so at 45 degrees on the upwind side to provide draft. The pit concentrates the heat and the tunnel draws air from the bottom of the pit to fan the flames to create a very hot fire for cooking. Because it is mostly beneath ground level, a Dakota fire pit is not very good for warming people around it. However, if there is any need for concealment, as can happen in military situations, being below ground is a good thing since it reduces visibility that might reveal your position. Here is a really good article on survival fires and especially the Dakota Fire pit. If you use a Dakota Fire Pit for cooking and personal warmth you may need to have a separate signal fire ready to light when rescuers approach.
Signal fires may be one exception to building a larger fire than you need to keep you warm. A larger fire will be easier for rescuers to see at night and will last longer should you fall asleep and can't keep feeding it. However, large fires consume a lot of fuel and it will take a lot of your energy to keep feeding it. It is a good idea to build up a large wood pile nearby when you need to feed a signal fire. During daytime you will need green boughs or leaves to create extra smoke to make it easier for searchers to find you.
Another exception to the small fire rule is when it is raining or snowing. In cases of heavy rain or snow, a large fire has a better chance of lasting out the storm. Using a large punky log that will burn slowly or piling on a bunch of dried cattle dung are also ways to keep it smoldering, even in a downpour. You may need a large fire to sustain you through the night too or as a signal fire. For signaling, a large column of smoke is going to be more visible than a fire during the day, so have some green or damp branches or boughs or grass or big chuck of punky wood on hand to increase the smoke when needed. Dried cow manure or "buffalo chips" is also works well to keep a smoldering fire. Survivalists sometimes use this trick to transport fire from one site to another, by making a "fire bundle", wrapping the smoldering manure in green leaves or wet leather.
Urban survival, that is, being in a survival situation at home, may require fires for outdoor cooking or for emergency heat. Certainly having a wood-burning fireplace or wood stove will give you useful options for keeping your family and your home warm in cold weather if utilities are out . If you don't have a supply of firewood you may have to resort to burning books or furniture. Sacrificing that Chippenddale table would be a shame, but it sure beats freezing to death! I enjoyed the scene in the movie, "The Day After Tomorrow" when the kids discovered there was a whole shelf of tax law books they could burn in the library fireplace instead of the classics to keep from freezing to death. Good choice! If you are in freezing weather, keeping the interior of your home above 32°F is critical to avoid pipes from freezing. If utilities are out, you may need to cook outdoors. An easy and often readily available solution is your portable back yard BBQ. Built in BBQs or others connected to natural gas won't be working if the gas is shut off. Do you have a place in your backyard where you can build a campfire? If not, you might want to look into to making one so you have a place to build a cooking fire during any long term outages. If you're at home you will probably have access to matches and/or lighters if you're at all prepared -- at least for a while. If you don't have a significant cache you may run out before utilities are restored and may have to resort to flint and steel or rubbing two sticks together.
For long term survival, like you might experience in disaster situation, a "rocket stove" might be helpful. They can be made from many readily available materials. Search for "rocket stove plans" using your favorite Internet search engine. Here are videos for making rocket stoves from several different kinds of materials. A really easy and inexpensive version can be made from a #10 can and 4 soup cans . You can cook an entire meal for 4 people just a handful of twigs.
NEVER use open fires or even hibatchis, propane BBQs or camp stoves indoors. Is isn't safe! There are special indoor propane heaters, like the "Buddy Heater", that you can use indoors safely, but units not rated for indoor use can be lethal. Even if a stove doesn't put out toxic fumes, which most do, it will consume oxygen and, without proper ventilation, you will suffocate. This has happened even to experienced campers who knew better but forgot when they set up a tent heater in a closed camper.
Survival fires serve many purposes. Obvious uses are to keep you warm, purify water, and cook your food. Keeping wild animals away is also a widely recognized function of fire. Signalling is also a frequent and effective use of fire in a survival situation. Less obvious, but more important than most people realize, is the psychological effect of fire on people in a survival situation. Remember, your attitude is the single most significant factor in your survival. Fire can help you maintain a positive attitude. Fire improves your comfort, safety, and state of mind. Firelight helps us control the irrational fears that can set in when we're alone in the dark. Remember the monsters in the closet or under the bed when you were a kid? Figure they're about 10 times scarier (even to grownups) in a survival situation. Every sound, every shadow, appears to be a threat.
Survival fire safety. Just because you're in survival mode doesn't mean you can ignore fire safety rules. In fact, it will behoove you to be especially careful with your survival fire. The last thing you need is to turn your survival environment into a raging inferno. It will no doubt attract lots of attention, but you are likely to perish long before any potential rescuers can get close enough to even know you're there. Always follow standard fire safety rules. Make sure you clear the ground of combustible materials for at least 5' around your fire as well as beneath it. Make sure there are no overhanging branches that could catch fire. Don't build a fire bigger than is necessary. A small fire is usually adequate for cooking. A medium sized fire may be needed for warmth, depending on weather conditions and the number of people you need to keep warm. Large fires might be needed for signally, but making even signal fires too big only wastes fuel -- and your energy collecting it. Be careful where you build your fire. Even Suvivorman Les Stroud managed to set his driftwood shelter on fire in one episode. Building fires in caves may seem practical, but the heat can cause the overhead rocks to expand and possible crack and fall on you, especially if you're in a small cave with a low ceiling. Better to build the fire outside and let it warm you and the cave slowly and indirectly. Sometimes building a fire in a cave might be the sensible thing to do. Getting your fire out of the rain may be essential to keeping it going. Having a fire in a cave can provide a warm environment for you and your companions. Don't build a big fire that touches the walls or ceiling as that may increase the risk of cracking the rock around you. Heat up some softball sized rocks to put in your bedding to help keep you warm at night. They are especially comforting as foot warmers, but putting one in each arm pit and between your thighs might warm the rest of your body more quickly. Just don't get them TOO hot! You want to place them close to major arteries (like the femoral artery in your thighs) where they can warm the blood so it warms other parts of the body. Holding warm stones in your hands for a while can help thaw frozen fingers and restore mobility you might need for survival tasks. Another trick for warming cold hand is to clamp them in your armpits or between your thighs.
Light up!
Tuesday, December 18, 2012
NOAA Weather Radios
NOAA Weather Radios have been mentioned in several posts. So just what is NOAA and why should I bother listening to NOAA Weather Radio? NOAA stands for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, which includes the National Weather Service. NOAA weather radios will only be useful to residents or travelers in the United States and its territories. The broadcast service is NOAA Weather Radio or NWR. NWR also broadcasts warning and post-event information for all types of hazards – including natural disasers (such as earthquakes or avalanches), environmental problems (such as chemical releases or oil spills), and public safety (such as AMBER alerts or 911 Telephone outages). NWR includes 1000 transmitters, covering all 50 states, adjacent coastal waters, Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and the U.S. Pacific Territories.
NOAA Weather Radio broadcasts can only be received by radios specially equipped to receive the NOAA frequencies. Specialized radios that receive ONLY NOAA weather broadcasts are available, starting at about $20 . Enter "NOAA Weather Radio" into your favorite search engine and you'll be rewarded with hundreds of possibilities. Some CB, HAM,, survival radios, and even some car radios include access to NOAA channels.
NOAA Weather Radio broadcasts 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The forecast repeats every few minutes. That means you don't have to sit there waiting for a local radio station to get around to doing the weather. You can tune in immediately and get current forecasts and alerts. The best NOAA radios will respond to alerts and turn themselves on (from stand by mode) so you don't miss an important change in weather conditions. An even more sophisticated service called Specific Area Message Encoding (SAME) allows users to program some specially equipped radios to specific geographical areas instead of entire regions. Some of the newer radios have LED displays that indicate the type of alert so you can tell at a glance if it is something you need to pay immediate attention to.
NOAA Weather Radio channels may be built into some dash-mounted car radios and CB radios. Many HAM radios can be tuned to NOAA Weather Radio frequencies if you know what they are (162.400, 162.425, 162.450, 162.475, 162.500, 162.525, 162.550). Stand alone units range from small, hand-held models, to more sophisticated and expensive "base station" designs intended for desk or office use. Base stations might be suitable for RV applications where you'll have 120 volt power available to operate them and will give you more power and greater range. Hand-held models can be easily moved from vehicle to vehicle, used in camp, or even carried on the trail. I have an older Radio Shack battery powered radio that is a cube of about 2 1/2" and has a built-in telescoping antenna. It works really well in camp, but is not designed to withstand the rigors of being carried in pocket or pack. Portable hand-held models are designed to be carried in a pocket or pack and would be very useful on the trail.
Types of broadcasts. There are several different types of informational broadcasts transmitted on NOAA Weather Radio. The major categories include alerts, routine forecast products (hourly observations, hazardous weather outlook, zone forecast product, regional weather synopsis, and the daily climate summary), Specialty Forecast Products (Short term or "NOW" forecast, special weather statements, tabular state forecast, record information announcement, surf zone forecast, river forecast, lake forecast, coastal waters forecast, off shore waters forecast, and tropical weather summary). The NOAA Weather Radio also participates in the Emergency Alert System and runs a test every Wednesday between 10:00 AM and noon. For detailed descriptions of each product see the definition of NOAA Weather Radio on Wikipedia.
The benefits of having NOAA Weather Radio in camp on on the trail are pretty obvious. You always have immediate access to up to date weather conditions and forecast. Knowing what is coming can make the difference between an disaster and simply weathering out the storm.
Listen up!
NOAA Weather Radio broadcasts can only be received by radios specially equipped to receive the NOAA frequencies. Specialized radios that receive ONLY NOAA weather broadcasts are available, starting at about $20 . Enter "NOAA Weather Radio" into your favorite search engine and you'll be rewarded with hundreds of possibilities. Some CB, HAM,, survival radios, and even some car radios include access to NOAA channels.
NOAA Weather Radio broadcasts 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. The forecast repeats every few minutes. That means you don't have to sit there waiting for a local radio station to get around to doing the weather. You can tune in immediately and get current forecasts and alerts. The best NOAA radios will respond to alerts and turn themselves on (from stand by mode) so you don't miss an important change in weather conditions. An even more sophisticated service called Specific Area Message Encoding (SAME) allows users to program some specially equipped radios to specific geographical areas instead of entire regions. Some of the newer radios have LED displays that indicate the type of alert so you can tell at a glance if it is something you need to pay immediate attention to.
NOAA Weather Radio channels may be built into some dash-mounted car radios and CB radios. Many HAM radios can be tuned to NOAA Weather Radio frequencies if you know what they are (162.400, 162.425, 162.450, 162.475, 162.500, 162.525, 162.550). Stand alone units range from small, hand-held models, to more sophisticated and expensive "base station" designs intended for desk or office use. Base stations might be suitable for RV applications where you'll have 120 volt power available to operate them and will give you more power and greater range. Hand-held models can be easily moved from vehicle to vehicle, used in camp, or even carried on the trail. I have an older Radio Shack battery powered radio that is a cube of about 2 1/2" and has a built-in telescoping antenna. It works really well in camp, but is not designed to withstand the rigors of being carried in pocket or pack. Portable hand-held models are designed to be carried in a pocket or pack and would be very useful on the trail.
Types of broadcasts. There are several different types of informational broadcasts transmitted on NOAA Weather Radio. The major categories include alerts, routine forecast products (hourly observations, hazardous weather outlook, zone forecast product, regional weather synopsis, and the daily climate summary), Specialty Forecast Products (Short term or "NOW" forecast, special weather statements, tabular state forecast, record information announcement, surf zone forecast, river forecast, lake forecast, coastal waters forecast, off shore waters forecast, and tropical weather summary). The NOAA Weather Radio also participates in the Emergency Alert System and runs a test every Wednesday between 10:00 AM and noon. For detailed descriptions of each product see the definition of NOAA Weather Radio on Wikipedia.
The benefits of having NOAA Weather Radio in camp on on the trail are pretty obvious. You always have immediate access to up to date weather conditions and forecast. Knowing what is coming can make the difference between an disaster and simply weathering out the storm.
Listen up!
Monitoring The Weather While Camping or Boating
How often have we heard or even experienced the cliche of rain spoiling the picnic? Sometimes this problem can be avoided by paying appropriate attention to the weather forecast or just by keeping a close eye on the sky. NOAA weather radios and local radio stations can be a good source for regional weather forecast but you can't beat the experience of local or frequent visitors to a particular location for good weather information.
Weather is very likely to be of more concern to you when camping than it is at home. At home we usually just adjust the thermostat and wait out bad weather. You may have to adjust your wardrobe if you're going outside depending on the weather forecast, but mostly we move from one climate controlled indoor space to another, usually via climate controlled vehicles, so weather isn't so critical. Whether you're camping in a tent or a luxury RV, weather will affect your comfort, your travel plans, and your activities. A comfortable RV will usually provide adequate protection from the elements as long as you don't run out of resources, like fuel or battery power. Tent campers are far more affected by weather and usually can do little about it but endure it or pack it up and go home. However, if you are properly prepared, you can be comfortable in your RV or your tent in just about any kind of weather. In order to be prepared, you need to know what to expect. Maintaining a comfortable temperature in a tent will be more difficult than in an RV, but if you are properly prepared, you can at least make it bearable. You might be able to retire to your vehicle to keep warm in particularly nasty weather. Or at least you can dress to stay warm. But first you have to know what kind of weather to expect, then how to deal with it. If you left home in warm sunny weather and only brought light clothes you'll have a hard time keeping warm if it turns cold and/or rains.
Weather can be even more of a problem for boaters. Wind and
rain can really wreak havoc when you are out on the water.
Thunderstorms are an even greater threat to boaters than to
land-lubbers, especially if you are in a sailboat with a tall mast.
Check the forecast before you leave home. The first step is to check your local forecast before you even leave home. Your local newspaper, radio and TV stations, and weather sites on the Internet are good places to get some idea of what to expect. My favorite Internet weather source is Weatherbug. It can be accessed on at Weatherbug.com. It is also available as a downloadable gadget that constantly monitors the local weather forecast. It constantly displays the current temperature on the status bar of your PC and sounds a chirping sound when an alert is posted for your selected area. It includes a forecast up to 7 days. Be aware that the Weatherbug gadget was once considered to be adware but the latest buzz on the 'net says it isn't far enough across the line to warrant concern. Once you know the weather forecast for where you're going you can decide whether to proceed with your trip or not and, if you decided to go anyway, what kind of preparations you need. What you bring along will vary greatly depending on the forecast. "Heat wave" will dictate light weight clothing coupled with cooling techniques, cold beverages, and frozen treats. On the other hand, a prediction of cold and/or wet weather requires warm clothing, rain gear, extra blankets, auxiliary heat, and warm treats.
Weather watches versus warnings etc. There seems to be some confusion about the terms "watch" and "warning". Many people use the terms interchangeably -- and incorrectly. Each has a specific and somewhat different meaning. A "watch" means conditions are right for a chance of the indicated condition. A "warning" means the condition is happening or is likely to happen. A third alert, "advisory" is sort of between a watch and a warning, indicating the specified weather has a "pretty good chance" of occurring. A watch means keep your eye out for the condition; an advisory means REALLY keep your eye out and start making preparations; a warning means it is happening or its probably happening and you should be taking immediate steps to protect lives and property. For example, when you hear a tornado warning for you area, seek safe shelter IMMEDIATELY! If it is just a watch, start making preparations so you'll be ready when the warning is issued. Make sure you know where you and your family are going to go and that you have necessary supplies prepared (food, water, clothing, flashlights, tools, etc). For example, a tornado watch means conditions are right for tornadoes to form and a tornado warning means tornadoes have been sighted in the area. In short, a watch condition means start making preparations; a warning means take cover NOW! When I hear an advisory I figure it is time to get ready to take cover and to closely monitor ongoing reports. Your tent or even your RV isn't going to provide sufficient protection against tornadoes. If you are in areas where tornadoes occur, check to see if there is a shelter nearby or look for someplace relatively save, like under an underpass. Basements or cellars usually offer the best protection within buildings but if you are in a building that doesn't have them, go into closet or bathroom without windows. A bathroom has the advantage of some additional structural integrity due the plumbing in the walls. Bathrooms are usually fairly small and have small windows, which also makes them less susceptible to wind and changes in air pressure that accompany tornadoes. However, tornadoes bring a sudden drop in air pressure which can cause buildings filled with air at normal pressure to explode.
Monitor weather forecasts in camp or on the water by listening to a local radio station or using a NOAA weather radio. The NOAA weather radio provides continuous local weather reports in most areas of the United States. If you have satellite or wifi Internet access or a Smart phone you can check weather on your favorite web sites too. One of the things I like about the Weatherbug app on my computer is that it "chirps" whenever there is any kind of severe weather indicated for my area.
Keep an eye on the sky. Regardless of the forecast, keep an eye on the sky. Invest a little time online or in the library learning a little about clouds and what they mean . Cloud forms and movement are pretty good indicator of pending weather. You can also get printed scales that let you estimate wind speed by observing the movement of leaves, branches, flags, etc. Check it out at Estimating Wind Speed. For example, if the flag is fully extended and makes a popping sound, the wind is about 30 mph. If you're camped where you can hear crickets, you can estimate the temperature by counting cricket chirps. For the temperature in Fahrenheit, count the chirps in 14 seconds and add 40. For example, 30 chirps in 14 seconds plus 40 = 70°F. For Celsius, count the chirps in 25 seconds, divide by 3, and add 4. Example: 48 chirps in 25 seconds divided by 3 = 16 plus 4 = 20°C. Know what direction weather usually comes from and note any changes in clouds in that direction. Large, dark, roiling clouds will usually bring rain or snow and sometimes thunderstorms fairly soon. High cirrus clouds (high wispy clouds) in and of themselves seldom produce any precipitation but are usually the leading edge of an approaching weather system that may bring rain or snow within a few hours. A low, even overcast may dampen your spirits but usually doesn't dampen anything else very much. Fog will inhibit visibility and condensation may dampen awnings, tents, table clothes, camp chairs, and OHV seats.
Talk to the locals. People who live or work or frequent a particular area get used to the weather patterns and can often be a good source for predicting what is going to happen in the near future. Since camping destinations are often on or near mountains, be aware that mountains often create their own local weather that won't show up on regional forecasts. The same is often true of large bodies of water.
Develop some weather prediction skills of your own. Predict-the-Weather-Without-a-Forecast is a web site with some simple lessons for predicting the weather using only what you see or feel around you by observing clouds, wind, and/or animal behavior. Clouds are probably your most obvious source of weather information. High, wispy clouds or no clouds usually indicate good weather while low, dark, roiling clouds signal a storm. An even, gray overcast usually doesn't produce rain or snow but often means cooler temperatures. Interestingly enough, a clear sky at night usually means cooler temperatures too.
"Red sky in the morning, sailor take warning, red sky at night, sailor's delight" is an old weather proverb that may actually have some scientific basis. Sunlight reflecting off clouds may indicate rain or shine depending on where the clouds are and from which direction weather usually comes. In the northern latitudes, weather usually moves from west to east, thus the "red sky" predictions. This same phenomenon is captured in the Holy Bible: "When ye see a cloud rise out of the west, straightway ye say: There cometh a shower: and so it is" (Luke 12:54) and "When it is evening ye say, It will be fair weather: for the sky is red. And in the morning, it will be foul weather today: for the sky is red and lowering" (Matt. 16:2–3). Moist air will create a yellow or gray sky sunset and dry air will yield a crimson sky (Red at night, sailor delight, assuming weather is coming from the west where it normally comes from due to the Earth's rotation.
Leaves sometimes are a pretty good indicator of pending rain. Two trees are particularly known for this: Silver Maples and Gensus Oaks. The change in barometric pressure due to an approaching storm will cause the leaves to turn over so their light undersides are exposed. This has to do with variations in the veins on the front and back of the leaves and how they respond to changes in pressure. Essentially they are natural barometers. Low pressure usually means rain; high pressure usually means clear skies.
Clear nights, cold days is another folk proverb that appears to have some validity. Clear nights also tend be colder than cloudy ones since the lack of clouds allows heat from the ground to escape more easily.
If a circle forms 'round the moon, it will rain very soon. The presence of high-level cirrus clouds often means rain is on the way and such clouds can cause a "circle 'round the moon" you can see the night before.
I remember being told as a kid that if the snow was crunchy, it was below 10°F. Not sure of the scientific accuracy of that bit of folk lore (although it does seem to be supported by anecdotal evidence and personal experience). From a scientific point of view, snow does crunch more at colder temperatures than at warmer ones. The crunching is caused by ice crystals rubbing together as you compress the snow. The colder the temperature, the louder the crunch. At warmer temperatures, friction between the crystals is reduced and they slide silently past each other. I typically observe "soft" crunching at about 20°F and very sharp crunching when it gets down around 10°F or below here in Utah and where I grew up in Idaho. I have also observed that when temperatures drop close to 0°F or below, my nose immediately reacts to cold air when I go outside, feeling sticky just inside my nostrils, probably from the mucus thickening or freezing. Speaking of snow, folk myths say it can't snow if it gets too cold. That isn't strictly true. It can still snow at very low temperatures, as long as there is enough moisture in the air. However, sustained low temperatures may literally freeze all the moisture out of the air and then it can't snow for a while. A new weather front with lots of moisture could move into a cold area and you could get snow even at very low temperatures. On the other hand, clearly it can be too warm to snow. For snow to form the atmospheric temperature must be at freezing or below. For snow to stick, the ground temperature must be at or below freezing. Snow can form high up in the clouds and then melt as it falls through warmer air near the ground. If the snow is falling thick enough and fast enough, some of it may be visible near the ground before it melts. Generally, snow will not form if the ground temperature is 41°F or warmer. By the way, even though snow is made of ice crystals, it is a pretty good insulator. A foot of snow is about equal to the R-13 fiberglass insulation in the walls of the typical home. That's why igloos and snow caves can keep you warm.
Speaking of snow, did you know that a blizzard is more than just a common term for a nasty snow storm? According to the US Weather Service, there is a specific definition for a blizzard. To qualify as a blizzard according to meteorological definitions, you have to have falling or blowing snow that reduces visibility to 1/4 mile or less plus sustained winds of 30-35 mph for at least 3 hours. Doesn't matter much to a driver or a camper whether the raging snow outside is officially a "blizzard" the roads are slick and you can't see where you're going, but it is an interesting bit of trivia. Of course you can experience blizzard-like conditions that may not last long enough to meet the formal definition but certainly do last long enough to be real nuisance or even a hazard in camp or on the road. You won't really care if it is officially a blizzard if blowing snow prevents you from finding your exit.
A "whiteout" is a condition where falling or blowing snow reduces visibility to virtually zero. During a whiteout it is just about impossible to tell the difference between the snow-covered ground and the snow-filled air. There is no discernible horizon. If you encounter a whiteout, it is best to stop and wait it out. Continued travel is very dangerous. If you're on the highway, you could easily drive off the road. If you are already traveling off-highway, you may get totally lost. Anytime you are moving you are at risk of running into unseen obstacles or other travelers. If you MUST move, do so cautiously. If you pull over, try to get far enough over so you're out of traffic to reduce the chance of getting hit. Even though weather may reduce other traffic on the road there will still be some, including snow plows. If you happen to get in their way you are pretty much guaranteed to come out on the short end of the deal!
Wind can be a weather problem all by itself. You don't have to have tornado or hurricane conditions for wind to create a hazard. Strong gusting winds can wreak havoc with your campsite. They can damage awnings, tents, and canopies. They may blow camp chairs or other light objects away or into your fire pit. Winds can pick up debris that can cause injuries or damage. Wind can sometimes create dust storms that reduce visibility and cause breathing problems for many people. Wind can wreak havoc with campfires and scatter embers that can start unwanted conflagrations. What can you do about wind? First of all, make sure your campsite is as secure and wind-resistant as possible. Put away canopies, umbrellas, folding chairs etc. Make sure you tent is securely anchored. Head your RV into the prevailing wind. Put out your campfire. Then stay inside your tent or RV until the wind subsides. By the way, always put up your camp chairs or at least fold them up and lay them flat when you retire from the campfire each night. I've seen way too many light weight aluminum chairs blown into firepits where hidden coals have destroyed them by morning. Wind can be problematic on the trail too. Hikers, horseback riders, and OHV riders may encounter difficult and/or dangerous conditions brought on by wind. I've seen dirt bikers literally get blown over when they topped a hill one windy day in the Mojave Desert. They hit the top of the hill and went over like Arty on the tricycle on the old Saturday Night Live stunt. Wind may kick up dust and debris that affects visibility and could injure your eyes. Head winds may affect vehicle mileage, significantly shortening your normal travel range. That cute little decorative windsock on your RV awning must might be more useful than you think. After all, small airports still use windsocks to give pilots information about wind direction and speed.
Thunderstorms often bring severe weather conditions that require special attention. Even fairly distant thunderstorms can cause flash floods miles away, so avoid low-lying areas and especially sand washes when there are storms anywhere in the area. Lightning is another hazard of thunderstorms. Stay out from under tall objects like lone trees, light poles, power poles, and radio towers. You can estimate how close lightning is to you by counting the number of seconds between the flash and when you hear the thunder. Divide the number by 3 to get the distance in kilometers or by 5 for the distance in miles. If you don't have a watch to count the seconds, you can estimate the time by counting 'one one-thousand, two one-thousand, three one-thousand, etc). When I worked outdoors we were instructed to stop work, leave the job site, and seek immediate shelter if lightning were within one mile.
Weather instruments, such as a barometer, can help you get a feel for what is coming. A rising barometer usually means fair weather ahead. A falling barometer may indicate an approaching storm. Falling temperatures and increased wind often precede a storm too. Typical clusters of weather instruments for your home or RV will include a barometer, thermometer, and a humidity meter. I like to have an indoor/outdoor thermometer in my RV so I can keep an eye on both temperatures easily. One I saw recently accommodates up to 3 remote transmitters so a single instrument could monitor inside and outside temperature and the temperature in your refrigerator and freezer. There are more sophisticated electronic weather stations you can buy that give you a plethora of weather information, some if it useful, some of it pretty arcane. Another useful device is one to measure wind chill. Wind chill is the perceived temperature felt on exposed skin due to wind. Wind chill isn't measured when the temperature is above 50°F and is never higher than the static temperature. It is usually colder than the actual air temperature. You feel colder because the wind removes heat from your body more quickly than still air does. If the air is 40°F and there is a 10 mph wind, it will feel like its 34°F. At higher temperatures (above 50°F), the heat index is used to measure the increase in perceived temperature due to a combination of heat and humidity. High humidity makes you feel hotter because your perspiration doesn't evaporate as quickly to keep you cool. If the air is 90°F and the humidity is high, it will feel more like 105°F. Some people believe they can predict a change in the weather by the feeling in their joints. There might be some truth to that. The fluid in our joints reacts to changes in barometric pressure. Anyone who is sensitive to such changes might actually be a fairly accurate barometer!
Use local resources when you can. Your campground host, rangers, law enforcement officers, and other campers familiar with the area can be a valuable source of weather information. They may be familiar with typical weather patterns and can tell you what to expect. Very often, their predictions are far more accurate than formal weather reports. They can also alert you to potential flash flooding along streams or dry washes. I once worked at summer resort where it rained every day at 1:00pm. You could almost set your watch by it.
One of my favorite weather anecdotes is the "weather string". Hang a string outside your window. If you can see it, is probably clear and the sun is probably shining. If you can't see it, it may be dark or foggy or snowy outside. If it moving, the wind is blowing. If it is wet, it is raining. If it is frozen, it is cold. If its gone you may have really strong winds. While this is intended mainly as a joke, a weather string can help you judge wind strength and direction, just as pilots judge wind wind strength and direction from wind socks. The little toy windsocks folks hand on their RV awnings can actually give you a fairly good idea of wind speed and direction once you get used to reading them.
Be weather wise!
"I Used To Know That"
Saying "I used to know that" seems less embarrassing than admitting I forgot something. Forgetfulness isn't a condition limited to those suffering from Alzheimer's or senior dementia. From time to time everyone loses track of something they once knew. Mostly it is trivial and slightly annoying; sometimes it is embarrassing; occasionally it may be downright disruptive. We've all forgotten where we left our keys or glasses -- probably more than once. But what can we do about it? Not sure about the keys or glasses unless we just get better at always putting them where they belong. But some of our camping skills can benefit from deliberate review and frequent practice and it is imperative to keep first aid training up to date.
Reviewing our training and the things we've read is one way to fight forgetfulness. One of the reasons that first aid and CPR certifications need to be renewed every couple of years is to force people to review. Another reason is that procedures evolve over time and you always want to be operating with the latest and best information available. I have a collection of RV magazines going back several years and I've read every one of them cover to cover several times. Even now though, I still have that feeling that "I used to know that" when I re-read some of the articles. Bits and pieces of what I've learned before have gotten lost. Even though you may review certain things until they become second nature, chances are the knowledge will start slipping away if you don't continue to use or review them regularly. I even re-read my own blog articles frequently. Another reason for re-reading articles is that our life experiences have usually evolved between readings and we may interpret things differently. Things that might have gone unnoticed before may stand out as important upon a second -- or third -- or n-th re-reading. In many ways, you are a different person each time you re-read something. You will have had additional experiences and been exposed to additional information that may allow you to recognize and appreciate things you glossed over before.
Age and the passage of time isn't the only reason we forget things. Often there is just too much going on in our busy day-to-day lives to remember everything. And things we don't use very often are the easiest for our brains to tuck away somewhere it is difficult to retrieve. Most of us don't get nearly as many opportunities for camping or other recreational activities as we would like to have so all the other stuff going on tends to crowd out our camping knowledge and we have to dig it out again for each trip. Survival training gets even less regular use. That said, those of us who have logged a few more miles and a few more years should recognize that age does demand its toll. We may have to work extra hard to keep our minds fresh.
Lacking the time or sometimes other resources necessary for frequent camping trips, we should train ourselves to do mental exercises to help us remember important skills and information. Spend some time walking around your RV or inspecting your camping equipment between trips. It will help you remember things needed fixing or things you wanted to add or change. It also helps your brain keep the information readily accessible instead of pushing it deeper and deeper until it is essentially forgotten. It is also a good way to refresh good practices you've developed on previous trips. Imagine yourself setting up camp and using your equipment. Studies have shown that mentally doing physical tasks (imagine doing them), even things like playing basketball, can improve performance even without physical practice.
Sometimes we get accused of being obsessive if we make lists, but making lists can be a good way to remember things. On each trip I make a written list of things I need to do when I get home including equipment repairs and maintenance, updating provisions, any special cleaning, and things I'd like to add to my equipment. I use written checklists to assist me in preparing my RV, camping equipment, OHVs, and riding gear for each trip. At home I make shopping lists for each project and sometimes create lists of each step in completing a project. It has been said that the palest ink is better than the best memory. Sometimes the very act of writing something down makes it easier to remember, but by writing it down we don't HAVE to remember. I recall the comment by Henry Jones Sr. in the Indiana Jones movie The Last Crusade when he said "I wrote it in my diary so I wouldn't have to remember."
Checklists aren't just for the feeble minded. Some prominent professions where checklists are critical and are followed exactly include surgeons, air line pilots, and astronauts.
Written lists are good for shopping and mundane tasks we need to remember, but critical first aid knowledge and skills need to be constantly refreshed. You don't want to find your self in an emergency situation and be searching your cluttered memory or your notebooks to be able to use your knowledge of medical ABCs to save a life. That would be a particularly bad time to suffer a bout of "I Used To Know That".
You may see ads for memory enhancing drugs or supplements. Be wary of such claims. While there may be benefits to certain treatments, most will probably not live up to your expectations. Like so many things which seem too good to true -- and indeed are not true -- getting a good memory in pill form is one. Exercising your mind and reinforcing what you've learned by repetition are safe and proven ways to improve memory.
Don't forget!
Reviewing our training and the things we've read is one way to fight forgetfulness. One of the reasons that first aid and CPR certifications need to be renewed every couple of years is to force people to review. Another reason is that procedures evolve over time and you always want to be operating with the latest and best information available. I have a collection of RV magazines going back several years and I've read every one of them cover to cover several times. Even now though, I still have that feeling that "I used to know that" when I re-read some of the articles. Bits and pieces of what I've learned before have gotten lost. Even though you may review certain things until they become second nature, chances are the knowledge will start slipping away if you don't continue to use or review them regularly. I even re-read my own blog articles frequently. Another reason for re-reading articles is that our life experiences have usually evolved between readings and we may interpret things differently. Things that might have gone unnoticed before may stand out as important upon a second -- or third -- or n-th re-reading. In many ways, you are a different person each time you re-read something. You will have had additional experiences and been exposed to additional information that may allow you to recognize and appreciate things you glossed over before.
Age and the passage of time isn't the only reason we forget things. Often there is just too much going on in our busy day-to-day lives to remember everything. And things we don't use very often are the easiest for our brains to tuck away somewhere it is difficult to retrieve. Most of us don't get nearly as many opportunities for camping or other recreational activities as we would like to have so all the other stuff going on tends to crowd out our camping knowledge and we have to dig it out again for each trip. Survival training gets even less regular use. That said, those of us who have logged a few more miles and a few more years should recognize that age does demand its toll. We may have to work extra hard to keep our minds fresh.
Lacking the time or sometimes other resources necessary for frequent camping trips, we should train ourselves to do mental exercises to help us remember important skills and information. Spend some time walking around your RV or inspecting your camping equipment between trips. It will help you remember things needed fixing or things you wanted to add or change. It also helps your brain keep the information readily accessible instead of pushing it deeper and deeper until it is essentially forgotten. It is also a good way to refresh good practices you've developed on previous trips. Imagine yourself setting up camp and using your equipment. Studies have shown that mentally doing physical tasks (imagine doing them), even things like playing basketball, can improve performance even without physical practice.
Sometimes we get accused of being obsessive if we make lists, but making lists can be a good way to remember things. On each trip I make a written list of things I need to do when I get home including equipment repairs and maintenance, updating provisions, any special cleaning, and things I'd like to add to my equipment. I use written checklists to assist me in preparing my RV, camping equipment, OHVs, and riding gear for each trip. At home I make shopping lists for each project and sometimes create lists of each step in completing a project. It has been said that the palest ink is better than the best memory. Sometimes the very act of writing something down makes it easier to remember, but by writing it down we don't HAVE to remember. I recall the comment by Henry Jones Sr. in the Indiana Jones movie The Last Crusade when he said "I wrote it in my diary so I wouldn't have to remember."
Checklists aren't just for the feeble minded. Some prominent professions where checklists are critical and are followed exactly include surgeons, air line pilots, and astronauts.
Written lists are good for shopping and mundane tasks we need to remember, but critical first aid knowledge and skills need to be constantly refreshed. You don't want to find your self in an emergency situation and be searching your cluttered memory or your notebooks to be able to use your knowledge of medical ABCs to save a life. That would be a particularly bad time to suffer a bout of "I Used To Know That".
You may see ads for memory enhancing drugs or supplements. Be wary of such claims. While there may be benefits to certain treatments, most will probably not live up to your expectations. Like so many things which seem too good to true -- and indeed are not true -- getting a good memory in pill form is one. Exercising your mind and reinforcing what you've learned by repetition are safe and proven ways to improve memory.
Don't forget!
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