Care and Repair of Overhead RV Cabinets

Most RVs have many overhead cabinets.  This is both a blessing and a curse.  Having plenty of storage is a wonderful thing.  However, I've seen overhead cabinets in several RVs pull loose due to age and/or overloading.  Sometimes water intrusion into the ceiling and/or wall will have promoted dry rot that weakens the mounting points, but often they were just weakly mounted in the first place.  Storing potato chips and napkins isn't likely to cause any problems, but avoid heavy items like canned goods, spare batteries and tools.  Even though individual items may not be especially heavy, the cumulative weight may exceed the intended design.  I've seen cabinets that looked like there were only screwed into the 3/16" plywood wall paneling with no attempt find studs in the wall for better support and additional strength.   Installations such as this are lucky if they are strong enough to support empty cabinets!

As always, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.  Re-attaching loose cabinets is NOT an easy or fun job so you will want to avoid it if at all possible.  Begin by only putting light items in overhead cabinets.  Then monitor the cabinets so you can tell if they are starting to come loose so you can deal with it before they fall off.  Even light weight items will add up if there are a lot of them.  Keeping weight low will help maintain a stable center of gravity in  your RV too.

If you have an overhead cabinet that is coming loose, the first thing to do is to empty it out to minimize the damage and gain access to repair it.  Once is is empty you may be able to push it back into place and re-anchor it to the wall.  Sometimes the cabinets are secured via screws inside the lower shelf.  To get to them use a screw driver or putty knife to lift the edge of the paneling on the top of the bottom shelf until you can remove it completely.  That will expose the framework inside the shelf, including the back piece through the cabinet is screwed to the wall.  If the cabinet has pulled completely away from the wall and the screws have pulled through you'll need to back out the old screws to be able to get it back in place.  Screwing the old screws back into the stripped holes is probably a waste of time.  If they were originally screwed into studs you may be able to repair the hole by inserting wooden repair plugs before re-installing the screws.  If the screws only went into the plywood, you'll need to relocate the screws to a sturdier location.  Try to find studs to screw into.  If you can't find any studs you might get some additional strength by using moly bolts.  You'll need to drill a big enough hole in the wall for the moly bolt, but tight enough so it will hold the sleeve so you can tighten the bolt.  The face plate on the sleeve usually has little prongs that dig into the surface to help keep it from turning so the sleeves need to be tapped into the holes.  The sleeve on moly bolts spreads open as you tighten the bolt, gripping the back side of the plywood and spreading out the load a little bit so they don't pull out as easily as ordinary screws.  If you have enough depth in the wall you might try Wingit brand fasteners.  They perform the same function but use a different design that spreads out behind the wall board.  They are very strong:  rated to hold 300 lbs each.  However,  you have to drill a 3/4" hole in the wall to install them.  And the 300# rating only applies if the wall they are attached to can also support that much weight.  Moly  bolts usually only need about a 3/8" hole.  Wingits usually come with 3 1/2" or 4" bolts.  Sometimes those are too long and might begin to penetrate the outer skin.  If that is the case you can buy shorter bolts, but be sure they're long enough to engage the nut in the end of the part of the Wingit that goes in the wall after they go through the cabinet.  .  If there is any question about having room to install larger fasteners like Wingits, consider trying smaller ones first.  Then, if you do have to move to bigger ones, you can always drill bigger holes.  But if you drill the bigger holes first, you can't repair them without replacing the entire section of paneling. With either Wingits or moly bolts, the strength of the installation is still dependent on the strength of the wall board they're mounted in so it is still a good idea to try to find some structural member behind the wallboard into which you can drive good screws if possible.  I like Grabber screws and they come in a variety of sizes.  Choose a length that will extend into the wall about 1 1/2".  Another possible fix is to secure a sturdy screw strip to the wall so it will be next to the top of the bottom shelf.  Make sure to anchor it into structural members so it will hold strongly.  Then you can screw up through the bottom of the cabinet to hold the cabinet in place.  Doing this will sacrifice a little bit of shelf space in the cabinet, but is a pretty darn good way of making sure the cabinet says in place.  You could install the screw strip under the shelf which would be even safer, but then it is visible all the time, unless it is behind a valance over a window.  If the top of the front of the cabinet has pulled away from the ceiling, you may need to do the same thing to reattach the top of the cabinet securely.  Wingits are not recommended for installations in ceilings and moly bolts probably have the same limitations so you may have to install a strip you can screw the top of the cabinet to.  If you have to install screws through the front of the cabinet where they will be visible you may want to purchase plastic screw covers to disguise them.  These consist of two pieces of plastic:  the base, which is usually a translucent white and a  snap-on over, which should be a color that closely matches the color of the cabinets.  Put the screw through the base so the head of the screw holds the base tightly against the cabinet when the screw is tightened in place.  Then snap  the cover on the base.

For particularly heavy cabinets or if you plan to put a heavy load in an overhead cabinet, you may want to explore ways to support it from below.  If it is over a counter, you may be able to install decorative wooden spindles between the counter and the bottom of the cabinet for a sturdy support.  For cabinets over furniture, you may be able to add a support against the wall all the way to the floor.  Depending on the design and strength of the ends of the cabinet you may need to add shelf supports under the cabinet and anchored to the wall support.  If you have to resort to this solution you can mitigate the appearance of the supports by covering them in fabric or wall paper or painting them to match or complement the wall color.

Good luck!

Hey! Its almost spring again!

 

 Offcially the first day of spring in the northern hemisphere is March 21.  That is also the spring equinox -- the day when the length of daylight and dark are the same.  From now until the summer solstice (June 21, the longest day of the year) the days will be getting longer by about a couple of minutes every day.

Spring time is an exciting time for those of us who enjoy RVing, camping, and off road activities. After several months of having our equipment in winter storage, most of us are at least beginning to feel the effects of cabin fever, itching to hit the roads and the trails.  Yes, I know, this isn't my first post on spring cleaning, but hey!  Spring comes every year and getting ready for another fun season of camping and riding is something we all need to do every year.

To make the most of a new season of camping and riding we need to make proper preparations.  If you live in a climate with freezing winter weather you will have to de-winterize your vehicle(s) and equipment.  If you are lucky enough to live in the sun belt you might have been able to avoid putting your stuff into storage for the winter, but it is still a good time to inspect all your equipment to make sure it is in good condition and ready for another season of fun.  Annual maintenance procedures are often specified in the owner's manual.  Lacking that, be sure to inspect tires and brakes, belts and hoses, batteries and electrical systems, and inspect and change fluids and filters as necessary.

RVs, OHVs, and water craft should be properly serviced and inspected for any damage that might have occurred over the winter.  If water systems in RVs have been winterized you will want to wait until you no longer expect freezing overnight temperatures before de-winterizing them.   Be sure to check the manufacturer's recommendations for regular maintenance.  Pay special attention to rubber items, like belts, tires, and hoses, as they are often adversely affected by winter temperature changes.  Check fluid levels and check and test batteries. Don't forget the batteries in flashlights, lanterns, smoke detectors, and remote controls.

Other camping equipment and riding gear should be gotten out and inspected.  Things should generally be OK if they were properly stored at the end of the last season but sometimes insect or rodents can infest stuff and do a lot of damage.  Make sure everything is clean and in good repair.

Go through your tool boxes, spare parts, RV galleys, and camp kits to confirm that all necessary items are there and are clean and in good repair.  Check to be sure cutting tools, such as knives, axes, hatchets, and saws are sharp and free from rust.  Make sure handles are secure and smooth.  See to it that wrench sets, screwdrivers, and socket sets have all their pieces in good condition.  Replace missing or damaged items.

Review all your on board medical supplies, toiletries, cleaning supplies, and non-persishable ingredients to make sure you have everything you might need and that all is serviceable.  Winter temperatures can have a dramatic affect on many products, especially those in liquid form.  Bulging or leaking canned goods can be a health hazard.  Discard and replace any suspect items.  If you happened to leave any soda cans in your RV or camp kit where they got frozen, you'll find a sticky mess where the cans have exploded and leaked.

Review your personal readiness to resume recreational activities.  Illness or injuries during the off season may have taken their toll on your physical and/or mental status.  If you've been somewhat lax in physical activity over the winter, it would be a good idea to begin a moderate exercise program to regain the strength and mobility you will need to be able to safely enjoy your summer fun.

Begin making plans for your first outing.  I recommend the first trip be to a familiar destination fairly close to home in case anything pops up that needs special attention.  Save the more adventurous outings for later in the season when both you and your equipment have both once again been proven up to the task.  It isn't unusual for it to take a trip or two before you get back into the swing of things and feel completely comfortable.

Spring ahead!

UTVs or Side-by-sides

UTV stands for Utililty Task (or Terrain) Vehicle.   As the name indicates, they were originally designed for utility work.  They are also known as side-by-sides because of the seating configuration.  The Kawaski Mule and the Yamha Rhino were two of the first.  They were small 4-wheel drive vehicles, equipped with bucket seats and a steering wheel so they drive like a car.  The original Mules and Rhinos looked a little like a Jeep or a small pickup truck.  Their potential for sport use was quickly recognized and soon there were models, such as the Razor, that looked more like a custom Baja racer than a utility vehicle.  Even Razors usually have a small cargo bed in the back.

They are designed for high performance off road use,  often having as much wheel travel as a dirt bike (13" or more of wheel travel) to absorb some pretty big bumps -- or jumps.  Driver and passenger are secured by seat belts or harnesses.   Seat belts are standard equipment:  3-point harness are the norm but for racing and other high impact activities a better 5-point harness is recommended.  They usually have roll bars and a small cargo bed at the rear.  Most if not all are equipped with 4-wheel drive, giving them a "go anywhere" capability, as long as the road or trail is wide enough for them.  There are many trails designed for dirt bikes and ATVs where UTVs are prohibited.  Attempting to travel these trails in a UTV is not only illegal and environmentally irresponsible, it is dangerous.  It can also be expensive.  If your UTV breaks down out on one of these illegal trails you may have to option to abandon it as towing services may not be able to reach you and eventually you could be liable for the cost of having it removed.  There are plenty of legal roads and trails you can enjoy.

Most UTVs carry 2-4 passengers, but some, like the Ranger, can carry up to 6 passengers.  That makes them popular for family outings, especially when you have children too young or other family members who don't ride.  And the cargo space means you have plenty of room to bring along a well-stocked picnic basket and cooler for lunch and other refreshments out on the trail.

There are optional accessories available to customize UTVs to an owner's individual needs and wants, including off road lights and elaborate sound systems.  You can even purchase body kits that fully enclose the passenger space and add a heater for winter riding.  Some might even have an option for air conditioning!  That would obviously make hot summer rides more comfortable but I would worry about how much power it would take and whether it would cause overheating of the engine.

I've seen a number of  UTVs equipped with snow plows for clearing winter driveways and small parking lots.  And, of course, they are capable of towing any off-road trailer.  The cargo area makes them useful for hauling a variety of things, ranging from a cooler full of your favorite summer beverages to firewood, medical supplies, and tools.

UTVs are usually too wide to be driven on regular ATV trails and definitely too big for single track dirt bike trails.  They are very much at home on fire roads and other dirt roads and the wide puffy kobby tires, together with 4-wheel drive, provide excellent traction in sand,  mud, and snow.  A few UTVs are deliberately built narrow enough to be used on ATV trails.

Like other 4 wheel vehicles, UTVs should not be driven across sleep slopes because of the risk of rollover.  That also limits manueverabilty when climbing hills.  If you get stuck about the only safe way to get down is to back down.  Attempting to make a U-turn on a steep slope can result in rollover.  If you have to back down, exercise extreme caution.  I've seen way too many UTVs (and ATVs for that matter) have the front end swing around unexpectedly when the driver attempted to back down a steep hill, often resulting in rollovers.

Because of their larger size and more complex design, they are more expensive than dirt bikes or ATVs, but being able to carry 4-6 people may make the "cost per passenger" a little less daunting.  Since they are usually designed with cargo carrying features they can be used to transport tools and supplies you couldn't carry on ATVs or dirt bikes.

In some cases UTVs might be modified to be street legal, but most are intended and purchased strictly for off road use.  Off road tires won't last long on pavement and can contribute to excessive tire wear and to dangerous  problems in handling.  This might be mitigated by changing the tires but in doing so you usually sacrifice some the off road capability for better on road manners.

UTVs are sometimes used as off road rescue vehicles.  They may be equipped to carry stretchers and I've even seen some designed for wildlands fire fighting.

UTVs may offer hard core off road enthusiasts a way to continue to enjoy their sport even after age, illness, or injury prevents them from straddling a dirt bike or ATV.  Riding in the cushy seats of a UTV for many hours is always going to be more comfortable than sitting in the saddle of dirt bike or ATV and the strain on the driver's arms from the steering wheel will be much less than that from  wrestling with handlebars.   The tires, suspension, and body weight absorb a lot of the jarring impact that is transmitted directly to the riders of dirt bikes and ATVs.

UTVs are smooth!

4x4s: 4 Wheel Drive Off Highway Vehicles

Not all 4 wheel drive vehicles are suitable for off road use.  In recent years there have been many luxury sedans equipped with 4 wheel drive or all wheel drive.  This gives them additional stability on wet, snowy, or icy roads but the suspension, gear train, and general body style are not amenable to off road use. A surprising number of big, lifted 4x4 pickups aren't really intended for off road use either.  They are often more for show than actual use.  Those big, shiny, showy trucks you see hogging extra spaces in a parking lot are not likely to ever be driven off pavement.  A REAL off-road pickup is the one with mud all over both sides and the paint rubbed off the front fenders from driving through the bushes!

The term "4x4" is usually used to describe a 4 wheel drive pickup or SUV.  One of the first 4x4s to gain popularity was the venerable Jeep.  Originally designed as a military vehicle, GIs returning from World War II were quick to adapt them for civilian use after learning to appreciate their amazing versatility in combat.  Jeeps are often the foundation for "rock crawlers", adapted for negotiating passage among large boulders.  The name "rock crawlers" usually applies to the recreational applications for these vehicles and their drivers.  However, a whole class of professional racing has grown up around rock crawling with extremely difficult courses that challenge both man and machine to the limits.  They are often referred to as "rock bouncers" and are specially built, high performance, 4 wheel drive vehicles.  For some exciting viewing, check out "rock bouncers" on Youtube.  I am sure you will be amazed!

4 Wheel drive pickups and SUVs are often modified to enhance their off road performance.   Typical modifications include lift kits and larger tires.  I've even seen some with onboard arc welders for emergency repairs on the trail.  Suspension enhancements are also a popular upgrade for both comfort and performance.  Typical upgrades include stronger (or additional) springs and bigger shock absorbers.  Seats and shoulder harnesses are often upgraded in competition machines.   I have seen a few really unusual 4x4 modifications, such as a Cadillac body mounted on a 4x4 truck frame.  Not quite sure what the prompted the builder but it was certainly surprising and interesting to see it racing through the open desert and I am sure it would be fun to drive.  I have to admit it certainly looked cool!

You will see a few vans with 4WD.   Having 4wd is a distinct advantage in any area where you get snow.  They make excellent vehicles to support winter sports such as skiing, snow boarding, snowmobiling, and ice fishing.  If you want an all terrain motorhome,  a Class B with 4wd would be a good option, if the compact accommodations are sufficient for your needs.  I have seen a few 4wd Class C motorhomes, which are, of course, based on van a chassis. There have also been a very few Class A motorhomes built with 4WD.   Revcon built both Class C and Class A 4WD motorhomes.  I heard that the owner of the now defunct Suncrest motorhome company had one built to stress test their Class A and it kept up with dune buggies in the open desert!  I once owned a 28' Suncrest similar to the one used for the 4x4 conversion and always thought it would be fun to have the 4x4 to support our dirt biking adventures, but theirs wasn't for sale and the converting mine would have been way too expensive.

4x4s are often associated with off road activities.  However, when you see a bright, shiny, 4x4 pickup with a lift kit so high you need a step ladder to climb into the cab, those are mostly for show, not real off road use.   If you want to see a REAL off road truck, look for one with a modest lift and lots of mud.  If the paint is worn off the front fenders you know it has been seeing a lot of genuine off road driving.

4 Wheel DRIVE ON!

Dune Buggies

 Dune Buggies are a class of OHVs all their own.  To some extent they have been replaced by UTVs in today's off road market.  At one time dune buggies were mostly home made units, often built on Volkswagen or Corvair based platforms.  These rear-mounted, air-cooled engine configurations lended themselves well to handling off-road driving. 

I recall two basic configurations:  rails and fiberglass bodied models.  Rails were little more than a simple frame with a drive train, front suspension and steering, and one or two bucket seats.  The fiberglass models were a bit heavier but they were very attractive and provided more protection for occupants.  They often had a rear bench seat for a total carrying capacity of 4 people.  You may remember seeing Steve McQueen drive one on the beach in The Thomas Crown Affair.  My wife and I actually had the chance to drive that very dune buggy in the Mojave Desert.  At that time the buggy belonged to a dirt biking buddy.  It was a lot of fun and was especially nice for taking small children into "town" for hamburgers.  And, yes, this particular dune buggy was street legal.  Most were not.

There were some commercially made dune buggies, including some large vehicles designed to carry multiple passengers on site-seeing excursions, giving non-riders a chance to experience dunes and deserts first hand.

 I once owned a Corvair powered dune buggie.  Unfortunately it wasn't running when I got it and I never go around to fixing it.  One major deterrent was that its trailer hadn't been licensed in several years when I acquired it and the State of California demanded I pay all the back registration fees of the previous owner plus penalties before I could get the trailer licensed in my name.  The fees greatly exceeded the cost of a new trailer so I ended up scrapping it.

If you want a dune buggy you might have to search ebay, craigslist, or your local classified ads.  There are few, if any, manufacturers still producing them new, but there are a few custom builders that will build one to your specifications. If  you don't want to wait to have a custom rig built, take a look at the current crop of Razor style UTVs.  They offer many of the same features and experiences as a dune buggy and usually have 4WD for even more capabilities.  They are, however, a bit pricey.

Enjoy a buggy ride!

ATCs

ATC stands for All Terrain Cycle.   This describes a collection of 3-wheeled off road vehicles that were once popular in the 1970s and 1980s.  You may still see a few of them out on the trails or for sale by owner.  You WON'T see any new ones.  

There is a popular notion that ATCs are illegal.  That really isn't true.  They were phased out by an agreement between the manufacturers and US Government interests that preempted any actual legal ban.  By the time the "voluntary" moratorium expired, ATCs had been replaced by ATVs.

 Whether ATCs deserved the bad repuation they got remains an issue of debate even today.   The 3-wheel configuration gave them a little more stability than a 2-wheel dirt bike which made them appeal to novices and younger riders.  Unfortunately, the perception of stability often masked the actual danger involved in riding any motorized device and people would over estimate their own capabilities, often resulting in careless accidents.  To that extent the fault may lie more appropriately with the rider than the machine.  

However, there were some innate characteristics of ATCs that made them somewhat unpredictable.  One was the propensity they had to turn opposite of where the rider was trying to go.  What happened was this:  the rider would lean into a turn, like you would on a bicycle or motorcycle and the ATC would turn the opposite direction.  That is because leaning put extra weight on inside wheel giving it more traction and making it force the machine to turn the other way, regardless of which way the front wheel was turned.  Another quite frequent problem was riders running over one of their own feet!  It was very easy for a rear tire to roll over your foot before you got it on the designated platform when starting out.  I've seen it done and even had it happen to me a time or two when I tried out a friend's ATC.  I NEVER run over my own foot with my dirt bike!  I once saw "Any ATC" prominently displayed on a list of the 10 Worst Dirt Bikes Ever.

While you can't buy an ATC new anymore there are still some used ones out there that might tempt you.  If you think you would like riding an ATC, go ahead.  They can be a lot of fun.  But please remember their idiosyncracies so you can avoid the common problems that led to them nearly being banned in the United States.  The tricycle configuration does make them a little easier for novices to ride than 2-wheeled dirt bikes, but the 4-wheeled ATVs that replaced them offer similar benefits without the downsides of the 3-wheeled ATCs.  4-wheeled ATVs don't have the turning problem and usually have platforms for your feet so you don't run over your own foot.

Cycle on!

ATVs

ATV stands for All Terrain Vehicle.  They are also sometimes know as "quads" or  "4-wheelers".  These fun and versatile off highway vehicles are sort of like a 4-wheeled dirt bike.   Like dirt bikes you straddle the seat and use handlebars to control the steering.  Because they have 4 wheels they are more stable than dirt bikes, but their extra width limits which trails they can be ridden on.  It also makes them somewhat unstable when crossing hillsides.  I've personally seen several 4-wheelers come tumbling down the hill when their operators tried to ride across or make a  u-turn while climbing a steep hill.  Many ATVs are equipped with a "dead man switch" so the engine shuts off if the rider falls off.  If a rider falls off a dirt bike, the dirt bike falls down.  But without a dead man switch, an  ATV could keep going for miles without its rider.  I once saw a rider roll his ATV and, because  he wasn't using a dead man switch, it kept going after he fell off -- and headed right for my motorhome!  The deadman switch has lanyard that connects to the rider's wrist.  When he/she falls off, the lanyard pulls the switch, shutting down the ATV.

Some the first ATVs  were initially designed to be ranch or farm vehicles.   Owners quickly saw the recreational potential and manufacturers weren't far behind in catering to the recreational market.  ATVs are often used by search and rescue organizations for both conducting searches and transporting injured victims.  Hunters use ATVs to haul their big game trophies.  Their basic stability and heavy load capacity make them ideal vehicles for these jobs, even though they aren't quite as nimble as dirt bikes.

ATVs, because of their wide, soft tires, are particularly well suited to riding on soft surfaces like sand, mud, and snow.  4-wheel drive versions deliver especially good performance in these situations.  ATVs can be be equipped with at snow plows for plowing driveways and other small areas.  Most ATVs are capable of towing small trailers.  Some ATVs can be equpped with rotary mowers.  Dump trailers, like the garden carts designed for lawn tractors are popular for hauling camping equipment and firewood.  You can even buy tent trailers designed to be pulled by ATVs, allowing you considerable camping comforts far off the beaten path.

Racing of ATVs isn't as popular as racing dirt bikes.  For a while there were regular "quad" heats between regular races at Supercross races, but they didn't really catch on.  ATVs are much heavier and somewhat less nimble than dirt bikes, so the quad  races couldn't compete successfully for excitement against the extreme stunts in a Supercross race.

Many ATVs come from the factory or can be adapted to carry a second passenger.   That makes them somewhat popular with families who have members who can't or don't want to ride dirt bikes.  Non-riders can still participate as passengers on trail rides.

ATVs are often popular win rural areas where they can serve as utility vehicles as well as off road toys.  The same machine folks use for trail riding can also be used to round up and deliver feed to livestock, haul fencing and firewood, and for a host of other tasks around the farm or ranch.

A predecessor to the ATV was the ATC -- All Terrain Cycle.  These were 3-wheeled machines, a sort of tricycle on steroids.  Because they were more stable and easier to keep upright than dirt bikes they quickly became popular with novice riders.  But they also developed a reputation as being dangerous, so much so that eventually the manufacturers agreed to a moratorium to avoid an outright ban in the United States.  Part of the problem was that the ease of use often gave new riders a premature sense of confidence that frequently caused them to get themselves into trouble.  There were some issues inherent in the design also.  For example, it was fairly common for a rider to run over his own foot with one of the back wheels, something I NEVER did on my dirt bike.   Another anomaly  had to due with turning.  On a bicycle or motorcycle you lean into the turn.  If you want to turn right, you lean right.   If you want to turn left,  you lean left.  With an ATC, when you lean right it puts extra weight on the right rear wheel, giving it more traction and causing it to outrun the left rear wheel, making the ATC turn left!   Although they were never formally banned, ATCs are no longer manufactured but you can still find some used machines around if you have an urgent desire to try one out.

ATVs go just about anywhere!